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Author Topic: Lifting the Jeep  (Read 3236 times)

Offline huntandjeep

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #15 on: April 20, 2017, 04:20:27 PM »
.........:bash:

So complicated.

I do want a lift, I do want 33s. Cabin is 10 minutes from the top of Stevens pass.... Having your diff drag in snow, or bumper push snow....

The goal is 33s, gonna be a snow rig more than anything, lockers would be nice, had a Rubicon for while.

Is there a middle of the road setup that will give me the lift without having to redo everything else? Not looking to go to Moab or go wheeling weekly.....
If 33's is your plan go for a 2 1/2" suspension lift , you could always do a 1" body lift down the road ( it would allow you to do a tummy tuck which raises the stock transfer case skid up closer to the frame ). Your Dana 35 rear might live a happy life as long as you own the Jeep or it could die a catastrophic failure. It's a C-clip design that doesn't really like oversized tires, the C-clip breaks and you loose the whole tire/wheel/ break Assembly. If you do have 3.07 gears 5th gear will suck , especially up hills on the highway. Only way to get back to where your Jeep handles hills now is to regear ( 4.56 and 33's would be exactly how your Jeep is now with stock gears and 31's ). You don't have to upgrade your brakes but it's a good idea , look at Black Magic pads and Centric rotors for the front ( since 80% of a Jeeps braking is Done with the front brakes ). Your stock steering will work , but you could swap on a solid tierod from a V8 powered grand Cherokee (1998) for $120 and never worry about it. The TJ tierod is hollow While the Cherokee is solid.
 Take a look at Zone Offroads lift kits they are a pretty nice kit. Stay away from Trail Master , Skyjacker , Rancho , Tuff Country , Rough Country. 
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Offline gasman

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #16 on: April 20, 2017, 08:01:20 PM »
If 33 inch tires is your goal, 4 inch lift would give you all the Clarence that you're going to need without raising your center of gravity too much. But a slip yoke Eliminator kit is a must and a good Woody Driveline will help out too.

If you're looking to run snow make sure you get wide tires minimum 12 inch if not 14 inch that way you can Aaron down and fluid on top of the snow as much as possible.
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Offline timberghost72

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #17 on: April 20, 2017, 09:08:21 PM »
Don't forget to put a drop pitman arm on if raising it 2+ inches along with adding a bracket for your front track bar. You'll need to keep your steering geometry as close to stock as possible. The drag link and track bar need to be parallel to each other. Slip yoke eliminator kit a must as everyone has said and a Tom Woods drive shaft (great shafts at great price). I wouldn't shim the skid plate/transfer case. Defeats the whole purpose of a lift. You'll also have to add longer sway bar end links.

Edit: The tie rod tube TO the drag link and the track bar need to be parallel. I wasn't clear on that.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2017, 07:43:59 AM by timberghost72 »

Offline huntandjeep

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #18 on: April 21, 2017, 06:18:35 AM »
Don't forget to put a drop pitman arm on if raising it 2+ inches along with adding a bracket for your front track bar. You'll need to keep your steering geometry as close to stock as possible. The drag link and track bar need to be parallel to each other. Slip yoke eliminator kit a must as everyone has said and a Tom Woods drive shaft (great shafts at great price). I wouldn't shim the skid plate/transfer case. Defeats the whole purpose of a lift. You'll also have to add longer sway bar end links.
Dropped pitman arm is not necessary ( as long as you don't move the axle side of the track bar ). I'm not using one on mine.
You have use a transfer case drop bracket unless you buy adjustable control arms. You want the rear pinion pointed at the rear yoke of the transfer case.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2017, 06:25:25 AM by huntandjeep »
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Offline PlateauNDN

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #19 on: April 21, 2017, 07:37:41 AM »
Who doesn't like drooling over sweet looking jeeps... :drool:  WHAAAAAAAAAA?!?!?!?!??! :yike:  a thread about jeeps a no pics............ :bash: 






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Offline HUNTINCOUPLE

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #20 on: April 21, 2017, 07:54:27 AM »
I lifted our 97' TJ with Terra Flex 4" kit. Added slip yoke  and never looked back. 33" 11.5 tires. We wheel about what you will be doing. Never broke anything . Yet..... The drivetrain is stronger than some people make it out to be. :twocents:
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Offline timberghost72

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #21 on: April 21, 2017, 07:54:59 AM »
Don't forget to put a drop pitman arm on if raising it 2+ inches along with adding a bracket for your front track bar. You'll need to keep your steering geometry as close to stock as possible. The drag link and track bar need to be parallel to each other. Slip yoke eliminator kit a must as everyone has said and a Tom Woods drive shaft (great shafts at great price). I wouldn't shim the skid plate/transfer case. Defeats the whole purpose of a lift. You'll also have to add longer sway bar end links.
Dropped pitman arm is not necessary ( as long as you don't move the axle side of the track bar ). I'm not using one on mine.
You have use a transfer case drop bracket unless you buy adjustable control arms. You want the rear pinion pointed at the rear yoke of the transfer case.

Yes you could get away with doing it this way but as the saying goes, just cuz you can doesn't mean you should. This just introduces more problems down the road. Best to do it right the first time.  :twocents:

Lowering the skid plate puts undo stress on the engine mounts and exhaust. Not correcting the steering geometry to where it should be puts alot of un-needed stress with the steeper angle on already weak tie rod ends.  Especially when you add larger tires.

Offline huntandjeep

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #22 on: April 21, 2017, 09:56:08 AM »
Don't forget to put a drop pitman arm on if raising it 2+ inches along with adding a bracket for your front track bar. You'll need to keep your steering geometry as close to stock as possible. The drag link and track bar need to be parallel to each other. Slip yoke eliminator kit a must as everyone has said and a Tom Woods drive shaft (great shafts at great price). I wouldn't shim the skid plate/transfer case. Defeats the whole purpose of a lift. You'll also have to add longer sway bar end links.
Dropped pitman arm is not necessary ( as long as you don't move the axle side of the track bar ). I'm not using one on mine.
You have use a transfer case drop bracket unless you buy adjustable control arms. You want the rear pinion pointed at the rear yoke of the transfer case.

Yes you could get away with doing it this way but as the saying goes, just cuz you can doesn't mean you should. This just introduces more problems down the road. Best to do it right the first time.  :twocents:

Lowering the skid plate puts undo stress on the engine mounts and exhaust. Not correcting the steering geometry to where it should be puts alot of un-needed stress with the steeper angle on already weak tie rod ends.  Especially when you add larger tires.
Using a dropped pitman arm is not the right way to do it. It's an easy way all the kits do it. Most kits don't drop the track bar  at the frame which throws off the steering ( bumpsteer ). What they have you do is drill or bolt on a plate at the axle side of the track bar. Which now drops the axle side away from the drag link. Now the drag link and track bar are nowhere near parallel.
Unless the OP gets adjustable control arms for the rear of his Jeep how is he going to adjust the rear pinion so it points up at the transfer case yoke after he drops the axle 4"s from where it was stock ? That's why kits throw in a transfer case drop.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2017, 10:05:30 AM by huntandjeep »
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Offline timberghost72

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #23 on: April 21, 2017, 10:25:01 AM »
You're right. You should add a bracket on the axle end for the track bar. I never said to drop it from the frame. Drop pitman arm and  track bar raised at the axle is the way to do it. Whether it is 2" on each end or  4". That keeps things parallel.

If you don't want to add adjustable arms to the rear axle to point the pinion up you can weld in new (or cut and reuse old) spring perches. Which would be the better way to go in order to keep the springs seated correctly. If not your springs will be bowed somewhat depending on how much the diff is rotated up.

OP. Just make sure you do lots of research  :twocents: 

 
« Last Edit: April 21, 2017, 10:46:48 AM by timberghost72 »

Offline splitshot

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #24 on: May 31, 2017, 04:11:14 PM »
 I think it is a mistake.  mike w

Offline Happy Gilmore

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #25 on: June 01, 2017, 03:08:15 PM »
and after all of that it might make weird unexpected turns left and right when you're doing 70mph down the freeway. That is about the time the lifted jeeps all go to craigslist to die.. :chuckle:
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Offline gasman

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #26 on: June 02, 2017, 08:00:56 AM »
and after all of that it might make weird unexpected turns left and right when you're doing 70mph down the freeway. That is about the time the lifted jeeps all go to craigslist to die.. :chuckle:

Death wobble, it's fixable......... lol
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Offline lamrith

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #27 on: June 02, 2017, 08:19:33 AM »
I put a 4" lift on my wrangler.  Tried the transfer case spacers and axle wedges in the rear, but had nasty driveline vibration and the yoke was way out of the trans so I went with an SYE.

For a SYE Checkout Adams Driveshaft.  I went with the Teraflex Extreme short SYE kit.  They have it with the SYE AND a driveshaft as a package.  You install the new tailshaft with SYE, send them a measurement once installed, and they make a custom DS for you.  They made mine in 2 days and shipped it out.  Installing it this weekend.  Then they will follow up with you and advise if you need more angle to your rear axle or not.  Shims are extra, not included in the SYE kit, but they help advise for proper final setup.

Offline huntandjeep

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #28 on: June 02, 2017, 07:09:27 PM »
I put a 4" lift on my wrangler.  Tried the transfer case spacers and axle wedges in the rear, but had nasty driveline vibration and the yoke was way out of the trans so I went with an SYE.

For a SYE Checkout Adams Driveshaft.  I went with the Teraflex Extreme short SYE kit.  They have it with the SYE AND a driveshaft as a package.  You install the new tailshaft with SYE, send them a measurement once installed, and they make a custom DS for you.  They made mine in 2 days and shipped it out.  Installing it this weekend.  Then they will follow up with you and advise if you need more angle to your rear axle or not.  Shims are extra, not included in the SYE kit, but they help advise for proper final setup.
Adjustable control arms will eleviat the need for the transfer case drop .  I know you can use shims on a leaf sprung suspension , how do you uses shims on a control armed suspension
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