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Author Topic: Lifting the Jeep  (Read 667 times)

Offline Night goat

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Lifting the Jeep
« on: April 19, 2017, 01:21:25 PM »
It's finally time to lift my jeep. I've had the thing 10 years, running stock everything, and also have a cabin in the mountains in the future, so, it's time to build the Jeep.

It's a stock 2001 Wrangler tj, with the 4.0, and while I seem to have a general idea of what I want (33s, 3.5-4" lift) there is just way too much info out there and I end up just being confused by it all.

It's mainly gonna be a fish/hunt/ski rig, logging roads, mild trails, more utility than a dedicated wheeler...

Any guys with a lifted jeep who can offer some insight?

I'll go 2.5" of lift if that means not redoing brake lines and a transfer case drop, main thing is wanting to run a good pair of 33s 

Offline Special T

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #1 on: April 19, 2017, 01:25:40 PM »
Www.jeepforum.com

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Offline Skyvalhunter

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #2 on: April 19, 2017, 01:38:24 PM »
You can atleast get a 2 in lift by replacing the springs try
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Offline WA hunter14

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #3 on: April 19, 2017, 01:52:52 PM »
Lockers and stock size mud tire would do a lot more for you then 33's

Offline Dan-o

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #4 on: April 19, 2017, 01:59:20 PM »
Lockers come first, IMHO.   
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Offline Night goat

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #5 on: April 19, 2017, 02:07:36 PM »
Lockers come first, IMHO.


You mean a welder??  >:(

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Offline Happy Gilmore

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #6 on: April 19, 2017, 02:11:04 PM »
http://www.oldmanemu.com.au/

An old friend raved about these guys. I think he must have got a happy ending with his lift kit.
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Offline jackelope

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #7 on: April 19, 2017, 02:20:36 PM »
Do the slip yoke eliminator on the transfer case. If you don't do this, don't bother lifting it. You'll be miserable and regret it.


http://www.extremeterrain.com/wrangler-jeep-slip-yoke-eliminators-explained.html
:fire.:

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Offline huntandjeep

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #8 on: April 19, 2017, 05:52:44 PM »
Start by doing ALOT of research over on Jeepforum.
Below 2 1/2" you can get away with not extending the brake lines , you might need a washer or two between the skid plate and frame to get rid of vibes , a good set of adjustable control arms ( Savvy /Currie ) with good joints ( true Johnny Joints not a nock off )  would help align the rear pinion to keep the vibes down . You don't "need " the adjustable arms with 2 1/2" but it's a nice option.
 When you get into the 4" territory that's when the check book starts to hurt.  There is a cheap way and the right way ( others may so otherwise ).
When I first lifted my 98 I bought a $1000 4" kit  :bash:
After not liking the ride , handling ect I started more research. After 4 years of owning this " kit " the only thing left from it is the 4" springs ( and they are getting replaced soon ). Not including the original $1000 kit I have an additional $2800 into my lift kit .
 Don't forget bigger tires require better brakes and steering. If you're Jeep has a Dana 35 rear it might be ok with 33's , might not just depends on how hard you are on it. If you're ​Jeep is the 5 speed you have 3.07 gears . Add 33's to those gears and kiss 5th gear good bye. Only way to get it back is to regear front and rear axles ,
  The Old Man Emu 2 1/2" kits are a great kit.
A Slip yoke eliminator isn't "  needed " on a 2 1/2" lift but would be a great addition just adds $. I've built 5 TJ's ranging from 4" & 33's to 4" and 37's so any questions I'm happy to answer.
« Last Edit: April 19, 2017, 06:23:37 PM by huntandjeep »
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Offline Alchase

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2017, 07:00:27 PM »
Do the slip yoke eliminator on the transfer case. If you don't do this, don't bother lifting it. You'll be miserable and regret it.


http://www.extremeterrain.com/wrangler-jeep-slip-yoke-eliminators-explained.html

 :yeah:

Especially if you are going up 3" or more. You will throw you geometry off and cause all kinds of issues.

As other have said, go to Jeepforum.com and learn from others mistakes.
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Offline gasman

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #10 on: April 19, 2017, 07:19:11 PM »
For what you said you want to use it for, I wouldn't bother with him a lift.

Put a locker in the rear and throw some decent 31"s underneath it and you'll go most anywhere you need to go.
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Offline Happy Gilmore

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #11 on: April 19, 2017, 10:46:06 PM »
For what you said you want to use it for, I wouldn't bother with him a lift.

Put a locker in the rear and throw some decent 31"s underneath it and you'll go most anywhere you need to go.

that's what I think as well. ARB air lockers, 2 inches, a real bumper and winch.... all you need.
"Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checked by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the grey twilight that knows not victory nor defeat."
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Offline Alchase

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #12 on: April 20, 2017, 10:08:24 AM »
For what you said you want to use it for, I wouldn't bother with him a lift.

Put a locker in the rear and throw some decent 31"s underneath it and you'll go most anywhere you need to go.

that's what I think as well. ARB air lockers, 2 inches, a real bumper and winch.... all you need.

Yep and good tires!
Only 2 defining forces sacrificed themselves for you:
The American Soldier and Jesus Christ. One died for your freedom, the other for your soul.

My rock,
He trains my hands for war and my fingers for battle.
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Offline timberfaller

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #13 on: April 20, 2017, 10:26:42 AM »
I did a 2 inch lift on my 92 Renegade(original leaf springs) last year, ONLY because it was cheaper then going OME!! :yike:   Took off the back trac-bar,  BIG improvement!

Would have liked to stay at original height because of bad hips.   I can still get in so it worked out OK.

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Offline Night goat

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #14 on: April 20, 2017, 12:43:55 PM »
.........:bash:

So complicated.

I do want a lift, I do want 33s. Cabin is 10 minutes from the top of Stevens pass.... Having your diff drag in snow, or bumper push snow....

The goal is 33s, gonna be a snow rig more than anything, lockers would be nice, had a Rubicon for while.

Is there a middle of the road setup that will give me the lift without having to redo everything else? Not looking to go to Moab or go wheeling weekly.....



Offline huntandjeep

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #15 on: April 20, 2017, 04:20:27 PM »
.........:bash:

So complicated.

I do want a lift, I do want 33s. Cabin is 10 minutes from the top of Stevens pass.... Having your diff drag in snow, or bumper push snow....

The goal is 33s, gonna be a snow rig more than anything, lockers would be nice, had a Rubicon for while.

Is there a middle of the road setup that will give me the lift without having to redo everything else? Not looking to go to Moab or go wheeling weekly.....
If 33's is your plan go for a 2 1/2" suspension lift , you could always do a 1" body lift down the road ( it would allow you to do a tummy tuck which raises the stock transfer case skid up closer to the frame ). Your Dana 35 rear might live a happy life as long as you own the Jeep or it could die a catastrophic failure. It's a C-clip design that doesn't really like oversized tires, the C-clip breaks and you loose the whole tire/wheel/ break Assembly. If you do have 3.07 gears 5th gear will suck , especially up hills on the highway. Only way to get back to where your Jeep handles hills now is to regear ( 4.56 and 33's would be exactly how your Jeep is now with stock gears and 31's ). You don't have to upgrade your brakes but it's a good idea , look at Black Magic pads and Centric rotors for the front ( since 80% of a Jeeps braking is Done with the front brakes ). Your stock steering will work , but you could swap on a solid tierod from a V8 powered grand Cherokee (1998) for $120 and never worry about it. The TJ tierod is hollow While the Cherokee is solid.
 Take a look at Zone Offroads lift kits they are a pretty nice kit. Stay away from Trail Master , Skyjacker , Rancho , Tuff Country , Rough Country. 
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Offline gasman

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #16 on: April 20, 2017, 08:01:20 PM »
If 33 inch tires is your goal, 4 inch lift would give you all the Clarence that you're going to need without raising your center of gravity too much. But a slip yoke Eliminator kit is a must and a good Woody Driveline will help out too.

If you're looking to run snow make sure you get wide tires minimum 12 inch if not 14 inch that way you can Aaron down and fluid on top of the snow as much as possible.
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Offline timberghost72

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #17 on: April 20, 2017, 09:08:21 PM »
Don't forget to put a drop pitman arm on if raising it 2+ inches along with adding a bracket for your front track bar. You'll need to keep your steering geometry as close to stock as possible. The drag link and track bar need to be parallel to each other. Slip yoke eliminator kit a must as everyone has said and a Tom Woods drive shaft (great shafts at great price). I wouldn't shim the skid plate/transfer case. Defeats the whole purpose of a lift. You'll also have to add longer sway bar end links.

Edit: The tie rod tube TO the drag link and the track bar need to be parallel. I wasn't clear on that.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2017, 07:43:59 AM by timberghost72 »

Offline huntandjeep

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #18 on: April 21, 2017, 06:18:35 AM »
Don't forget to put a drop pitman arm on if raising it 2+ inches along with adding a bracket for your front track bar. You'll need to keep your steering geometry as close to stock as possible. The drag link and track bar need to be parallel to each other. Slip yoke eliminator kit a must as everyone has said and a Tom Woods drive shaft (great shafts at great price). I wouldn't shim the skid plate/transfer case. Defeats the whole purpose of a lift. You'll also have to add longer sway bar end links.
Dropped pitman arm is not necessary ( as long as you don't move the axle side of the track bar ). I'm not using one on mine.
You have use a transfer case drop bracket unless you buy adjustable control arms. You want the rear pinion pointed at the rear yoke of the transfer case.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2017, 06:25:25 AM by huntandjeep »
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Offline PlateauNDN

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #19 on: April 21, 2017, 07:37:41 AM »
Who doesn't like drooling over sweet looking jeeps... :drool:  WHAAAAAAAAAA?!?!?!?!??! :yike:  a thread about jeeps a no pics............ :bash: 






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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #20 on: April 21, 2017, 07:54:27 AM »
I lifted our 97' TJ with Terra Flex 4" kit. Added slip yoke  and never looked back. 33" 11.5 tires. We wheel about what you will be doing. Never broke anything . Yet..... The drivetrain is stronger than some people make it out to be. :twocents:
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Offline timberghost72

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #21 on: April 21, 2017, 07:54:59 AM »
Don't forget to put a drop pitman arm on if raising it 2+ inches along with adding a bracket for your front track bar. You'll need to keep your steering geometry as close to stock as possible. The drag link and track bar need to be parallel to each other. Slip yoke eliminator kit a must as everyone has said and a Tom Woods drive shaft (great shafts at great price). I wouldn't shim the skid plate/transfer case. Defeats the whole purpose of a lift. You'll also have to add longer sway bar end links.
Dropped pitman arm is not necessary ( as long as you don't move the axle side of the track bar ). I'm not using one on mine.
You have use a transfer case drop bracket unless you buy adjustable control arms. You want the rear pinion pointed at the rear yoke of the transfer case.

Yes you could get away with doing it this way but as the saying goes, just cuz you can doesn't mean you should. This just introduces more problems down the road. Best to do it right the first time.  :twocents:

Lowering the skid plate puts undo stress on the engine mounts and exhaust. Not correcting the steering geometry to where it should be puts alot of un-needed stress with the steeper angle on already weak tie rod ends.  Especially when you add larger tires.

Offline huntandjeep

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #22 on: April 21, 2017, 09:56:08 AM »
Don't forget to put a drop pitman arm on if raising it 2+ inches along with adding a bracket for your front track bar. You'll need to keep your steering geometry as close to stock as possible. The drag link and track bar need to be parallel to each other. Slip yoke eliminator kit a must as everyone has said and a Tom Woods drive shaft (great shafts at great price). I wouldn't shim the skid plate/transfer case. Defeats the whole purpose of a lift. You'll also have to add longer sway bar end links.
Dropped pitman arm is not necessary ( as long as you don't move the axle side of the track bar ). I'm not using one on mine.
You have use a transfer case drop bracket unless you buy adjustable control arms. You want the rear pinion pointed at the rear yoke of the transfer case.

Yes you could get away with doing it this way but as the saying goes, just cuz you can doesn't mean you should. This just introduces more problems down the road. Best to do it right the first time.  :twocents:

Lowering the skid plate puts undo stress on the engine mounts and exhaust. Not correcting the steering geometry to where it should be puts alot of un-needed stress with the steeper angle on already weak tie rod ends.  Especially when you add larger tires.
Using a dropped pitman arm is not the right way to do it. It's an easy way all the kits do it. Most kits don't drop the track bar  at the frame which throws off the steering ( bumpsteer ). What they have you do is drill or bolt on a plate at the axle side of the track bar. Which now drops the axle side away from the drag link. Now the drag link and track bar are nowhere near parallel.
Unless the OP gets adjustable control arms for the rear of his Jeep how is he going to adjust the rear pinion so it points up at the transfer case yoke after he drops the axle 4"s from where it was stock ? That's why kits throw in a transfer case drop.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2017, 10:05:30 AM by huntandjeep »
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Offline timberghost72

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Re: Lifting the Jeep
« Reply #23 on: April 21, 2017, 10:25:01 AM »
You're right. You should add a bracket on the axle end for the track bar. I never said to drop it from the frame. Drop pitman arm and  track bar raised at the axle is the way to do it. Whether it is 2" on each end or  4". That keeps things parallel.

If you don't want to add adjustable arms to the rear axle to point the pinion up you can weld in new (or cut and reuse old) spring perches. Which would be the better way to go in order to keep the springs seated correctly. If not your springs will be bowed somewhat depending on how much the diff is rotated up.

OP. Just make sure you do lots of research  :twocents: 

 
« Last Edit: April 21, 2017, 10:46:48 AM by timberghost72 »

 

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