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Author Topic: Painting barrels  (Read 8896 times)

Offline Coasthunterjay

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Painting barrels
« on: March 28, 2008, 01:53:26 PM »
Ok, so i have an older model win m70 and have been thinking about painting the barrel and reciever a flat black, not just for looks but because the blue is waring out and it is almost going silver and because i am wanting and thinking more about painting it for protecting it from corrosion and rusting.....

Has anyone else painted there big game hunting rifles instead of having them re-blued professionally?

I dont want to paint the whole rifle just the exposed metal......

Offline robodad

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2008, 03:03:25 PM »
No don't paint it !!

What calaber is it ??

Do you want to sell it or trade it ??
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Offline Bscman

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2008, 03:08:52 PM »
I've duracoated a few times....great stuff. It's incredibly durable if you let it cure long enough (its dry to the tough in hours, but takes a month to fully cure).
It's also very cheap if you already have the spray setup. I can do any rifle in one color for about $15-20 in materials. It sure revives old, well used shotguns and rifles.

I love HK Black (semi-gloss). It looks great, even against a nice wood stock.

I wouldn't used a typical spray-paint. Most aren't very good with chemicals, are prone to chipping, etc.

Alumahyde and Cerakote are other options that are pretty cheap--I've heard good things about both but never tried them. One (or possible both?) are available in spray cans, so you don't need a compressor, airbrush, etc. like you would with duracoat.

Best of all, all these options seal off the metal so you don't have to worry about moisture and rust like you would with bluing.
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Offline tlbradford

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2008, 03:55:13 PM »
Quote
(its dry to the tough in hours, but takes a month to fully cure).

If you are just doing the metal, stick it in your oven and bake it for a while.
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Offline Coasthunterjay

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2008, 04:38:18 PM »
No don't paint it !!

What calaber is it ??

Do you want to sell it or trade it ??

I dont want to sell it i want to protect it.......But i am not a big fan of the Old school blueing.....Which is what it is...I think it was made in 1973.....

Offline Coasthunterjay

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2008, 04:42:32 PM »
Quote
(its dry to the tough in hours, but takes a month to fully cure).

If you are just doing the metal, stick it in your oven and bake it for a while.

You seriously want me to sick my rifle in the oven? What?

and i have an airbrush and compressor......Will it come out in a matte finish? how long does the duracoat last?

Yeah i really like that it keeps the moisture and salt, and dirt off the gun, Keeping it more protected........

Offline MikeWalking

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #6 on: March 28, 2008, 05:01:47 PM »
Quote
You seriously want me to sick my rifle in the oven? What

Under 200 Degrees  less than 1 Hour  That is if you chose to bake it that way and make a jig to hold the barrel.

More IS NOT better. I know of a buttload of helicopters grounded, some ditz thought if 200deg at 1 hour degreases struts then 400deg at 4 hours is better!!??   Can you say erased heat treat. An audit found the record and grounded a lot of birds in service.




Offline Coasthunterjay

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2008, 05:19:40 PM »
Quote
You seriously want me to sick my rifle in the oven? What

Under 200 Degrees  less than 1 Hour  That is if you chose to bake it that way and make a jig to hold the barrel.

More IS NOT better. I know of a buttload of helicopters grounded, some ditz thought if 200deg at 1 hour degreases struts then 400deg at 4 hours is better!!??   Can you say erased heat treat. An audit found the record and grounded a lot of birds in service.





Thats funny. I have heard of similar stories with other parts of helicopters.....

people sure do over abuse the stupid card.....

Offline PolarBear

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #8 on: March 28, 2008, 05:23:59 PM »
There are a couple of companies that offer flat color teflon coating.

Offline Coasthunterjay

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #9 on: March 28, 2008, 05:33:27 PM »
teflon sounds good. maybe i will try that.

Offline ICEMAN

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #10 on: March 28, 2008, 07:53:10 PM »
Rhinolining!
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Offline Coasthunterjay

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #11 on: March 28, 2008, 08:32:46 PM »
Rhinolining!

the barrel not the stock

Offline KillBilly

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #12 on: March 28, 2008, 08:49:33 PM »
I passed this on to CoasthunterJay, but thought I would share it with all. Brownells Baking Enamel will do wonders for any metallic surface on a gun. It is made for guns and comes in various colors for those who like to camo their stuff. I refinished an old rifle with it and it looked great when done. Another tip, old wooden stocks can be made to look good and be more functional by sanding well and spraying truck bed liner on them. The bed liner is plastic/rubber compound and will protect the wood. Maybe some out there can use this tip.
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Offline Bscman

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #13 on: March 28, 2008, 08:53:42 PM »
Duracoat can be had in matte/flat, semi, and gloss....toying with hardener can yield a bit more shine if you want as well.

It's very tough stuff...very scuff/scratch/chip resistant and stands up to a LOT of wear. It's also nearly impossible to sand off, and a LOT of people have RUINED parts trying to sandblast it away.
Yes, baking it will make short order of the curing time...

If you want to completely protect it, duracoat is a great way to go...just make up your mind before you do it.
And again, make sure it's FULLY cured before you get too aggressive with it. I'll usually wait at least a week or two before even attempting to re-assembly. It's fairly soft before it's fully cured...and remains somewhat flexible when cured. A big benefit on firearms, and chipping is common with harder coatings.
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Offline Bscman

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #14 on: March 28, 2008, 09:01:29 PM »
These aren't mine, but here are a few pics I pulled off another forum I freqent...all done in DURACOAT!

Before:


After:




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I hunt animals because veggies are too easy to stalk.

Offline Coasthunterjay

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #15 on: March 28, 2008, 09:12:22 PM »
Man, looks great....Might have to go with duracoat after all......

You said you can do it for how much?

Might be easier having someone who nows what there doing, do it, versus a newbie......

How hard is it to get a good even spray?

Does it come in a matte black? what about the tip of the barrel? the hole?

Offline Bscman

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Re: Painting barrels
« Reply #16 on: March 29, 2008, 11:29:06 PM »
You mentioned having an airbrush.
If you can spray cheap enamel and get a good finish, you can spray duracoat. Set 'er up about 40lbs and let it eat--don't try and "thin" it, just add the catalyst and go. It sprays like any other paint.

The big key is in the PREP.

I always blast the parts in the sandblaster before I spray. I will parkerize all the small parts I can (my tank is only 18", so that restricts most barrels!). Duracoat will adhere to a smooth surface, but likes a rougher surface (like most other coatings) to get a good "tooth."

Next step...DEGREASe...then do it again, just in case.
I start with something simple, like "Simple Green" for the parts cleaner. After than I like to heat the parts with a heat-gun, just enough to open up the pores of the metal just in case any oil is trapped. Then I'll wipe it down one last time with acetone.

Now, spray away.
Let it sit a few hours before handling it...and like I mentioned before, let it sit at least a week or two before assembly. It's designed to cure SLOWLY to stay somewhat pliable. This is why duracoat excels--it's not hard and brittle like most other firearm "paints."
It'll suck up dings and scuffs, rather than chip and flake like a lot of other finishes.

You can buy the complete kit to spray duracoat for ~$50, but it comes with compressed air in a can and a cheap single-action airbrush.
The tru-strip degreaser in the kit is nice, but a warm acetone bath won't leave any residue and works just as well (cheaper).
As mentioned, avoid reducer.

So all you're left with is the duracoat and hardener--which can be had for $16 per 4oz. That's enough to do two typical rifles (or three complete handguns, from my experience).
So if you already have the room, the airbrush, and some basic tools, the coating itself + degreaser is going to run you under $20 each if you coat two rifles.

Most "pro" finishers are asking ~$150-200 to completely do a typical rifle for you.
I left it better than I found it...did you?
I hunt animals because veggies are too easy to stalk.

 


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