Equipment & Gear > Archery Gear
Educate me on Arrow Building
Crunchy:
Its too short of a vane to get any real helical twist to it.
Tracker0721:
So I make trad arrows and have since I was 14 or so. How we tune spine to a stick bow is point weight. Cause guys shoot from 100 grain target tips to 300. My recurve is 55# and with my 190gr head I shoot a 70-75 which equates to like a 300 spine.
So shooting a 340 with a 100 grain tip I’d say when you paper tune you’ll be pretty stiff spined. I shoot a chill and my arrows are 29” 340s with 150 up front. Perfect holes on paper but my FOC is still lacking a wee bit but my speed is still decent with my t-Rex arms draw.
Another thing is nock weight decreases spine too. So a 20-30 grain lighted nock takes away about 10-20 grains up front because a typical nock is only 10 or so. Also the length of the arrow, anything over 28 decreases spine and under 28 stiffens it. Hence why carbons used to be 55-75. At 30” it was 55lb and 26” it’s 75. 28 was middle ground 65#.
Morale of the story. Set up your bow how you feel best but then go paper tune! Tuned bows kill better.
OltHunter:
I've gotten a lot more involved with arrow building over the past year. And the best part is you get to try all of this out to see what works best for you and your setup. All bows, archers, and form are all so different that there really isn't 1 right answer to your questions, just places to start to work off of.
A must start is to check spine first and all of the different options you are talking about and what that will do to your spine.
http://www.pinwheelsoftware.com/
Download the credit card less trial to double check your spine, and how much you can put upfront and what all the combinations of wrap/no wrap, 3 vs 4 vanes, 50 grain insert up front, etc. 7 days is all you need. Come up with 3 or 4 different setups to try out.
After you get everything figured out, draw a little line down your shaft at the nock, and shoot a bareshaft into the target at 5 ft. look to see where that line went, left or right and fletch that way. I believe it has to do with the way your strings and servings are twisted that dictates the spin. Mine have always spun right. This is one of those splitting hairs does it really matter, but it's one of those easy, why nots...
Broadheads do better with some offset/helical. 2 degrees is a good middle ground and start. Another good tool to get is an arrow spinner and squaring tool. Make sure your field tips and broadheads are spinning perfect as that can be a problem.
Bitzenburger jig for me, straight with offset about 1/16 of an inch up front.
I don't do arrow wraps because i have a long draw, long arrow, and to get everything balanced the way i do, my arrow is already heavy enough. I may drop from the front end weight to try them as I've heard it's night and day difference when fletching a lot, and they look cool!
And I run an insert system to add weight, that you drop from the back of the nock down and use a long tool to screw in.
FOC is an interesting topic these days and it sounds like you just need to get it to what works for you and your groups. Getting a screw in type of system is the best. Try 30 grains see what that does, try 50 grains see what that does, try nothing, see what that does. Making sure it's all within the spine match of the program above. I'm not sure what Easton has, you might just have to buy heavier inserts and glue them in.
But my final suggestion, get a dozen arrows and pick 3 or 4 different combinations. Maybe wraps, 30 grains up front, 2 degree offset, and blazers. 50 grains up front, offset, no wraps, and AAE Max Stealth. nothing up front, wraps, 4 inch vanetechs...something like that. After you tune, shoot them all through paper and make sure they are all getting the same tear. If not, move your nock to another fletch and see what that does. Get them all shooting the same.
Then shoot them all at 4 different spots on your target and see what shoots the tightest. Keep those arrows and rip the others off and then fletch those the exact same or with a small change, maybe 3 degree, or try 4 vanes, etc. Then you found your combination.
Then once you get the tightest group, try dropping the weight on your bow 3 pounds and see what it does. Add a twist to one of your cables, remove a twist, etc. See what that does.
Just my experience and thoughts for you.
Drewski:
--- Quote from: Crunchy on February 16, 2019, 01:51:46 PM ---Its too short of a vane to get any real helical twist to it.
--- End quote ---
If you want or need a bunch of helical on a Blazer, try the AZ Mini. It puts a ton of helical on them. Better than my old Jo Jann and Bitz.
Fl0und3rz:
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