Equipment & Gear > Archery Gear
An offer to help
et1702:
Yikes, I just switched to the 8.9gr/in shafts and didn't do the math. At 426gr total weight, I get 5.6gr, not 5.9. legal is 6.0gr/lb...right?
Do Carbon Express Maxima Hunters change the equation much? I think they are the same gr/in of shaft. But, are they a stiffer spine? I'd rather not go below 70lbs if I can help it (i.e., 426gr/70lb = 6.08gr/lb).
Thanks,
ET
Todd_ID:
--- Quote from: et1702 on August 30, 2010, 04:48:22 PM ---Yikes, I just switched to the 8.9gr/in shafts and didn't do the math. At 426gr total weight, I get 5.6gr, not 5.9. legal is 6.0gr/lb...right?
Do Carbon Express Maxima Hunters change the equation much? I think they are the same gr/in of shaft. But, are they a stiffer spine? I'd rather not go below 70lbs if I can help it (i.e., 426gr/70lb = 6.08gr/lb).
Thanks,
ET
--- End quote ---
Shows the CE Maxima Hunter 450's at .298" spine, so that'd be pretty much perfect to leave your setup the way it is. That's a 450 grain arrow with your 125's. The gr/lb on your current setup is 426/72=5.9. Maybe my grains are off on the program, but probably not more than a couple. My opinion is it's not worth the $120 for another dozen arrows when all you need to do is turn the bow down some, but that's just me. Most guys are pulling about 10# too much weight, so it's generally a safe recommendation. If you can sit in a chair, lift your legs off the floor, and draw the bow straight out in front of you with no more movement than you want to have with a whitetail looking at you, then your draw weight is ok. Most can't pass this test.... Your bow has a ton of energy stored in it that you can afford to draw lesser draw weights and still blow through a cape buffalo.
et1702:
Thanks Todd,
There aren't many arrows out there with a spine at around .300 or stiffer. I found some Beeman ICS hunters at 9.5gpi with .300 spine. Otherwise its the Maxima 450's, CE Pile drivers (too heavy), or Gold Tip Big Game Hunters. FYI, I know what you mean about too much draw weight. My buddy sat on his stand for two to 3 hours in below freezing temps and when a 150 class whitetail stepped out in front of him he couldn't pull his bow back to save his life! My bow is 70 to 80lb range. Most compounds are more efficient closer to the top of their range, and I don't have any problems pulling back after sitting three hours in below freezing temps. So, I'd rather use the right spine arrows for the job (and ones that are legal). Regarding KE of this bow, I love it! The last few elk, deer, and bears have all been complete pass thru's! In fact, none of them went more than 30 yards. The last elk I shot took four or five steps, stood there a moment and then fell over in his tracks. I think KE is more important than speed. Just like torque is really what gets your truck, or race car moving! However, since it's one week from opening morning for ELK, I may just turn her down to 70lbs so I'm legal. BTW, although spine is marginal. I tune my bow thru paper every year, and these shafts w/ broadheads are hitting the same point of impact as my field points.
carpsniperg2:
try shooting 83-84 lbs :yike: i might just have to start chunkin rebar and fletching them to make weight :chuckle:
et1702 you might look at the easton fmj's they should get you to the weight of arrow you need and you can keep that ke up and the arch down :IBCOOL:
et1702:
Hey CarpSniper,
I did shoot 84lbs...with only 35% let-off. Remember the Golden Eagle bows??? I shot that thing from 1986 thru 2006. Now I'm dating myself. But, I did start bow hunting at 15 years old with an old Darton over 31 years ago. BTW, if I crank my Hoyt all the way down, she will go over 80#. But, I already start my sight pins at 30yrds (i.e., no 20yrd pin), and can shoot very tight groups all the way out to 60yrds. But, everything I've shot over the years has been 30yrds or less.
Also, thanks for the suggestion. I'll look at the FMJ's
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