Post by: Austinsmm on July 09, 2012, 11:10:10 PM
Post by: bankwalker on July 09, 2012, 11:21:30 PM
Post by: jgrimes on July 10, 2012, 12:17:01 AM
Post by: PolarBear on July 10, 2012, 12:20:30 AM
Post by: RadSav on July 10, 2012, 12:57:26 AM
Shuttle T's! Everyone has their own preference when it comes to broadheads, so you're bound to get a variety of different responses. Go with a head that's sharp :chuckle:
If you want a head that is sharp why did you recommend the Shuttle T :dunno:
Austinsmm - You have plenty there to take bear. And then some!
Post by: jgrimes on July 10, 2012, 04:15:40 AM
Shuttle T's! Everyone has their own preference when it comes to broadheads, so you're bound to get a variety of different responses. Go with a head that's sharp :chuckle:
If you want a head that is sharp why did you recommend the Shuttle T :dunno:
Austinsmm - You have plenty there to take bear. And then some!
Like I said Austinsmm, everyone has their preference. Some people don't like the way that Trophy Taker packages their heads. I use the ones out of the package for tuning and replace the blades when it's time to hunt. Good luck in your pursuit for a bear with your bow. Looking forward to pics and a story!
Post by: D-Rock425 on July 10, 2012, 05:27:19 AM
Post by: SCRUBS on July 10, 2012, 05:31:02 AM
Post by: Jellymon on July 10, 2012, 06:52:11 AM
Post by: BOWHUNTER45 on July 10, 2012, 07:53:30 AM
Post by: simondude on July 10, 2012, 07:58:02 AM
Post by: BOWHUNTER45 on July 10, 2012, 08:01:31 AM
Post by: D-Rock425 on July 10, 2012, 08:07:41 AM
Post by: blackveltbowhunter on July 10, 2012, 08:31:58 AM
My :twocents: and criteria for picking a broadhead is first and foremost It has to fly GREAT consistently! After that its a sliding scale based on sharpness, durability, type of steel, availability, price and yes even looks. 8) :chuckle:
Depending on your draw weight your bow is going to generate plenty of energy to drive that thunderhead through any bear your likely to encounter. And cut good on the way through.
Post by: HUNTINCOUPLE on July 10, 2012, 09:01:42 AM
Post by: Fireant11 on July 10, 2012, 10:57:36 AM
My :twocents: and criteria for picking a broadhead is first and foremost It has to fly GREAT consistently! After that its a sliding scale based on sharpness, durability, type of steel, availability, price and yes even looks. 8) :chuckle:
I'm with Blackvelt; choose one that will fly consistently. Before I chose my setup, I shot various combinations of broadheads with 3 and 4 vane arrows. Initially, I wasn't looking for hitting center target, but which set hit the same area consistently. The set that grouped tightly, most consistently for me was a 4 vane arrow (Axis ST 340) with the Slick Trick 100 magnum. After determining this, I went about sighting in my pins.
Keep in mind that some arrows will fly differently. What I did was number each of my arrows and track which specific arrows were most accurate. I then put these in my quiver and used during the hunting season.
Post by: Button Nubbs on July 11, 2012, 01:03:02 PM
Post by: alwinearcher on July 11, 2012, 01:34:54 PM
My :twocents: and criteria for picking a broadhead is first and foremost It has to fly GREAT consistently! After that its a sliding scale based on sharpness, durability, type of steel, availability, price and yes even looks. 8) :chuckle:
I'm with Blackvelt; choose one that will fly consistently. Before I chose my setup, I shot various combinations of broadheads with 3 and 4 vane arrows. Initially, I wasn't looking for hitting center target, but which set hit the same area consistently. The set that grouped tightly, most consistently for me was a 4 vane arrow (Axis ST 340) with the Slick Trick 100 magnum. After determining this, I went about sighting in my pins.
Keep in mind that some arrows will fly differently. What I did was number each of my arrows and track which specific arrows were most accurate. I then put these in my quiver and used during the hunting season.
If you tune your broadheads to you arrows when you build them you should be able to eliminate most "flyers".
I also shoot the Shuttle T and have had great success with them! :twocents:
Post by: Battle Ready on July 12, 2012, 11:10:24 AM
UGG..Flint napped by gunthor
UGG..Flint napped by thor..lol
Getting broadheads to fly well has more to do with all other aspects of archery than the actual broadhead itself...that's what Ive found anyway.
Sharpness...I mean scary sharpness is what I look for.
Durability is great also..aesthetics..also good. I have almost every brand of broadhead made currently and in the past, and I keep one of each in a display exposed just to the air and light. Only a few of them are still sharp...mind you ..they were never shot...just displayed.
The sharpest in the display are:
Savora
Slick Trick
G5 Striker
Thunder head
WASP MAG
Ultimate Steel
Muzzy MX 4
The dullest by far
G5 Montec
Shuttle T lock
Innerloc 3 blade
Still though...no matter what broadhead you chose..you must exercise your options to keep them sharp, for that's the ethical thing to do. Every Broadhead on the market can kill, the only thing that keeps them from killing more efficiently is owners not tending to them, and ensuring sharpness.
Its all that easy.
Good luck, God Bless
Post by: wrongway on July 12, 2012, 09:23:02 PM
Post by: Sliverslinger on July 14, 2012, 10:49:05 PM
Post by: bwhntr350 on July 15, 2012, 12:14:39 PM
As far as damage? Shot my bull elk two seasons ago from 30 yards, when I gutted it I would have thought that I shot it with a 30-06. It's lungs were exploded. They came out in balls, balls and blood. Bull ran 6 yards from where it was hit to where it turned it's little heels up.
Post by: iRem on July 15, 2012, 07:19:27 PM
Post by: scottcrb on July 16, 2012, 01:29:47 PM