Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: Fishaholic on July 13, 2012, 05:52:02 PM
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so i went out scouting today and didn't see much but i did shoot a little and i was wondering if anyone ever had a bad shell with rem core loks??? i had one bad round out of 20. i had it happen with the 22 and 76254r and the 76239 but never a 30-06 springfield.
and has anyone ever shot 220gr out of a rem 700 in 30-06. i shoot 180s right now and they are great i just wanna try something new
and has anyone shot 165gr out of a 30-06 and how well do they shoot??
i want to be able to shoot 400 to 600 yards with the 30-06.
thanks
ddjj
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coreloks have killed a lot of critters! That being said they are not the best long range bullet, there are far better picks for the 400-600 yards shots you are talking about.
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I picked up a box of partitions 220 grn to try out of my Rem 700 30-06. Haven't reloaded them yet. Thought they would be some great brush busters up here on the Olympic Peninsula. I'm going to shoot a bear with them this year.
Brant
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Shooting 5 or 6 hundred yards in one thing killing stuff at 5 or 6 hundred yards completely different. Im not sure 30-06 is the best choice for that kinda range hunting anyway.
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I shoot Federal Power Shoks. Also a .30-06 shooter. They're the ones in the blue box. Same price as Core Lokts and also a soft point round. I have NEVER had a bad round in seven plus years.
Federal's tolerances are, on average, better than Remington's.
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I do shoot the cor locs out of my 7mm-08 mainly because i got like 4 or 5 boxes with it. My gun shoots them pretty good and ive killed a few bears with them.
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I use 150 core lokts for all my bear hunting..never a problem..600 yds with an 06,not my idea of the right caliber for big game...
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I have killed 3 mule deer with 165gn CL out of my 30-06 and they worked great. My longest shot of the 3 was 280 yards. I personally would not shoot at game over 400 with that gun, but that is me. I have shot one buck at 450 with 150gn CL out of my 300WM and he dropped in his tracks.
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At 600 yards the 220 will be about 10 feet low. You need to start at a much closer distance and work your way out. When you can no longer hit an 8" paper plate 9 times out of 10, then you've found your max range for deer.
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If you are not into reloading try some Winchester Supremes. I have great luck with them in my 7MM, 270, and 300 win. Very accurate factory ammo. My 7mm will print clover leafs at 100 yards with the Supremes.
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What do you mean by bad round? I had a 150 grain 270 core lokt factory load once that must have been loaded hot. When i touched it off it shot gas out of every part of the gun that wasn't solid. It burnt my cheek and almost got my eye. It even blew the primer out of the pocket. thought it blew up my gun for a second. I have used shooting glasses ever since, good lesson i guess. With a good trigger and an accurate gun with good glass 4 to 600 yards is no problem with an '06. If you have a scope that you can dial in elevation and windage. You would need a better long range bullet than a corelokt also. I takes a ton of practice to execute those kinds of shots on game. I practice to 750 weekly and wouldn't take a shot like that unless conditions were perfect. A good ballistics program or drop tables are a must. You would also need real world shooting to make sure your drop matches the programs. A lot of people don't realize what goes into shooting long range. These are just my opinions and i am not an expert on any level.
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a bad round as in i squeezed the trigger and it didn't go off. at 100 yards i can shoot a dime size group using 180s. and a 400 yards i can shoot a chew can group with my 180s i have a good long range scope with a turret thing that lets me pick how far i want to shoot then scope is caliber specific. i just want to be able to shoot 600 plus. and there was a sniper in Nam that used a 30-06 for long range shots halfcock i thinking his name is. i just want to know what bullet to use for longer shots on yots. i don't have a gun fund so a different gun is not going to happen
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His name was Carlos Hathcock, not halfcock, I believe. The story of Carlos halfcock is a whole other Vietnam story... :chuckle:
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if you hit a coyote in the vitals at 600 yards with a 30-06 it will be dead. You will need a bullet that bucks wind well the farther out you shoot. Do you reload or are you using factory loads? If you reload go with a VLD style or boattail bullet with high B.C. If you need factory stuff go with a match grade ammo with a good bullet for coyotes. I like the hornady 168 grain bthp in my 30-06. Or just shoot what you have been they might perform better than you think. At 600 you will need to know the drop because guessing the drop or the distance won't be reliable. At 600 yards you will have about 6-8 feet of drop with a 100 yard zero depending on your load. I use the Sierra infinity software a lot but there are free ones you can find like gseven or berger bullets has one. Just remember the 30-06 was one of the first long range rounds and still competes with some of the best new ones.
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If I was using rem corlokts in an 06 for long range, 180's would be my choice. They will be fine on deer out to 600.
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I've killed a dozen or so deer with 165 grain bullets out of my 30-06. All of them within 250 yards. I've tried just about all of them, Corlokts, Partitions, etc. The only ones I didn't like were the Nosler Ballistic Tip's, they tear up too much meat.
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the .30 caliber sniper load used to be a 168gr boattail, now it is the 175gr matchking bullet.. I wouldnt use the 220gr loads past 200yds, as they are slow and drop off pretty fast. They are the hardest kicking .30-06 load I ever tried. nowadays there is no need for a .30 cal bullet heavier than 180 or so, as modern bullet designs give you all the penetration they were trying to get by making the plain cup and core bullets that long... if you doubt that shoot your next deer lengthwise with a barnes x or a-frame.. or line up a row of milk jugs and see how many it takes to stop one.. at long range it is not if the round will kill something.. though most bullets designs need 1800fps or so remaining to open properly- (and depending on load you'll probably have that to 600) but whether you can figure drop for the correct distance, and correct windage to place the bullet in the vitals. at 300 yds a stiff wind will move the bullet from one side of a paper plate to the other, and turn a good shot into a gut shot in a hurry.. and at 600 its the other side of a 36" target... remember that hathcocks standard was different- if he was off on yardage, and hit the bad guy in the left ankle- he succeeds, bad guy out of the fight, and he adjusts for the correction, and the rest of the enemy platoon is trying to figure where on the far side of the mountain he shot from.. Do that on a deer, and you have a crippled deer, and you spend all day looking for him...and you just failed..
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I've killed a dozen or so deer with 165 grain bullets out of my 30-06. All of them within 250 yards. I've tried just about all of them, Corlokts, Partitions, etc. The only ones I didn't like were the Nosler Ballistic Tip's, they tear up too much meat.
A bonded core bullet at 165gr grains is a prime performer at any distance on the 06 case.
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the yahoo down at cabelas behind the gun counter told me he shoots coyotes at 1000 yards with his 30-06 :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: 400-600 should be no problem :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: i would try the accubonds i shot a bear at 460 last year with them and thought i missed him twice but they were just blowing right through and kicking up dust on the other side. that was with a 7mm stw though.
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the yahoo down at cabelas behind the gun counter told me he shoots coyotes at 1000 yards with his 30-06 :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: 400-600 should be no problem :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: i would try the accubonds i shot a bear at 460 last year with them and thought i missed him twice but they were just blowing right through and kicking up dust on the other side. that was with a 7mm stw though.
He was probably doing those 1000 yard shots blindfolded with one arm tied behind his back!
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In the last 15 years or so I am not getting the accuracy out of the Rem Corelokt that I get out of other factory ammo. I like the Federal bluebox also.
Carl
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Accuracy wise, core-looks were fine in my 308. I had several round out of two boxes that didn't fire. The primers were set very deep, and the during pin didn't strike them hard enough. Pushed me into reloading and I haven't looked back.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
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In the last 15 years or so I am not getting the accuracy out of the Rem Corelokt that I get out of other factory ammo. I like the Federal bluebox also.
Carl
I have several guys I hunt with that don't reload, they slum factory "Sissy :chuckle:" ammo. They have also switched from the Remington green box to the Federal blue box. I have watched them shoot some impressive groups out of factory Rem700's with it. I know a couple guys that claim it shoots well out of their Tikka's but haven't witnessed it due to the fact. They are no longer "friends" due to their slumming Tikka's. ;)
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When i touched it off it shot gas out of every part of the gun that wasn't solid. It burnt my cheek and almost got my eye. It even blew the primer out of the pocket. thought it blew up my gun for a second. I have used shooting glasses ever since, good lesson i guess.
:yeah:
I had a similar experience but not with corelokt's.. I bought some cheap steel cased .308 from Cabela's with the Herter's name on it, and the case seperated just forward of the bolt. Gas blew out everywhere and it was scary. I havent shot steel .308 since.. But I still shoot steel 7.62x39, 7.62x54r, and steel .223 only when I have a rod to ram stuck cases out of the chamber lol. I would absolutely never count on steel .223 in a defensive situation. My AK has never seen brass before and its never jammed.
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I rarely shoot factory, but when I have, Federal was always more accurate than Remmington Core..
The only Remmington Core I shoot now is 30-30 and its relatively fine for that kind of load and shooting.
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What shoots good in one gun may not shoot good in another. So many factors involved in accuracy. It all depends on what a person is going to use his rifle for. Bullet type certainly affects accuracy. Do you need accuracy or stopping power. There are many choices out there now. Some good accurate factory ammo for those who don't want to reload. As with most things you get what you pay for. Usually the more expensive fills the need better than the cheaper. Well except politicians!
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As funny as this may sound, I have a 300 WTBY that shoots factory Rem Coreloks more accurately than any other ammo, I have tried all kinds of handloaded bullets and powders. Still trying to find a good handload for that darn gun. :bash:
It has killed numerous elk out to 650 yds with the coreloks, but those corelok bullets do not hold together well, I often find bullet case separation, and they rarely go through the animal. I prefer to see exit wounds for tracking purposes. But with all things considered, corloks are a fair bullet for the price.
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As funny as this may sound, I have a 300 WTBY that shoots factory Rem Coreloks more accurately than any other ammo, I have tried all kinds of handloaded bullets and powders. Still trying to find a good handload for that darn gun. :bash:
It has killed numerous elk out to 650 yds with the coreloks, but those corelok bullets do not hold together well, I often find bullet case separation, and they rarely go through the animal. I prefer to see exit wounds for tracking purposes. But with all things considered, corloks are a fair bullet for the price.
Thats the only problem Dale . They shoot well but blow sheet up :chuckle:even out of my .270 :bdid:
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As funny as this may sound, I have a 300 WTBY that shoots factory Rem Coreloks more accurately than any other ammo, I have tried all kinds of handloaded bullets and powders. Still trying to find a good handload for that darn gun. :bash:
It has killed numerous elk out to 650 yds with the coreloks, but those corelok bullets do not hold together well, I often find bullet case separation, and they rarely go through the animal. I prefer to see exit wounds for tracking purposes. But with all things considered, corloks are a fair bullet for the price.
Thought I should add, like others have mentioned, some guns will like bullets other gunbs will not, but try to find premium grade ammo that shoots well in your gun, it's really worth the extra money. Also if have a choice between corloks and nosler partitions I prefer partitions. Also, I would not waste my money on ballistic tips for big game, this is an opinion based on seeing too many animals wounded by ballistic tips. Last year I had a guy shoot a large bull with ballistic tips numerous times, the last time into the ribs at point blank range, very little penetration. Barnes or any of the other premium grade bullets will likely do you well.
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As funny as this may sound, I have a 300 WTBY that shoots factory Rem Coreloks more accurately than any other ammo, I have tried all kinds of handloaded bullets and powders. Still trying to find a good handload for that darn gun. :bash:
It has killed numerous elk out to 650 yds with the coreloks, but those corelok bullets do not hold together well, I often find bullet case separation, and they rarely go through the animal. I prefer to see exit wounds for tracking purposes. But with all things considered, corloks are a fair bullet for the price.
Thats the only problem Dale . They shoot well but blow sheet up :chuckle:even out of my .270 :bdid:
Agreed, it's because half the time the bullet is breaking apart in faster calibers, bound to cause a lot of damage. :chuckle:
270 shoots fairly fast I can see where the same damage would occur.
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Dale my 300wby shoots 180 accubonds real well I load 79 grains of H4831 and the animals had good bullet retention that have got. I also seat the bullets out a little so they just clear the magazine.
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Dale my 300wby shoots 180 accubonds real well I load 79 grains of H4831 and the animals had good bullet retention that have got. I also seat the bullets out a little so they just clear the magazine.
Are the accubonds boattails?
A while back I realized that all the bullets I have tried to reload for that gun are all boattails and the coreloks are flat base. So I purchased some Barnes flatbase and a couple other flatbase bullets to try. Haven't loaded them yet, but my fingers are crossed.
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Dale my 300wby shoots 180 accubonds real well I load 79 grains of H4831 and the animals had good bullet retention that have got. I also seat the bullets out a little so they just clear the magazine.
Are the accubonds boattails?
A while back I realized that all the bullets I have tried to reload for that gun are all boattails and the coreloks are flat base. So I purchased some Barnes flatbase and a couple other flatbase bullets to try. Haven't loaded them yet, but my fingers are crossed.
yes accubonds are boattail
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Dale my 300wby shoots 180 accubonds real well I load 79 grains of H4831 and the animals had good bullet retention that have got. I also seat the bullets out a little so they just clear the magazine.
Are the accubonds boattails?
A while back I realized that all the bullets I have tried to reload for that gun are all boattails and the coreloks are flat base. So I purchased some Barnes flatbase and a couple other flatbase bullets to try. Haven't loaded them yet, but my fingers are crossed.
Against popular belief, more often than not. A flat base bullet is inherently more accurate than a boat tail at intermediate ranges. They tend to be more stable and don't need a little yardage to " Settle down " as in the case of some of the boat tail bullets. Being a boat tail or not doesn't really make that much of a difference on a bullets performance until the extended ranges. So for a average hunting encounter one would in no way be handi-capped slumming a flat base.