Hunting Washington Forum
Big Game Hunting => Muzzleloader Hunting => Topic started by: andersonjk4 on July 16, 2012, 11:16:01 AM
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I have a CVA Elkhorn and have been doing some load testing with it. I bought a package of CCI #11 Mag caps from Cabela's about 6 months ago and shot them during my first testing. They shot good, but I did get a few that didn't fire. I assumed it was just due to me not pushing the cap onto the nipple hard enough. I started using the back of my capper to push the cap onto the nipple and didn't have any problems after that. Recently I put in an order to Powder Valley and ended up ordering 1000 of the CCI #11 Mag caps because they have much better prices. I went out to the range to do some more testing recently and was having problems with the new caps from PV not firing. Initially I thought I just wasn't getting the caps on tight enough, but then I started trying the old caps I bought from Cabela's and they seemed to fire more regularly, but I still had a couple not fire. This is very frustrating because I don't want to be in a hunting situation and not have my cap fire. The caps do seem to fit on the nipple very tight. The caps that don't fire have to be pryed off the nipple with a pocket knife or little screwdriver and it takes considerable force to pop them off. The firing pin is leaving a nice mark in the caps and usually busts the charge in the cap up when it hits it. Has anyone experienced this before? Do I have a bad batch of caps, or am I not getting my caps on tight enough?
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It should not matter how tight or loose the cap is as long as it is on the nipple. The hammer will "tighten" it when it hits.
You could try a new (longer) nipple.
Also make sure that the chemical charge isn’t falling out of the cap.
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Screw the musket cap nipple on that bad boy and that will fix it!
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Screw the musket cap nipple on that bad boy and that will fix it!
X2 :tup:
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Had the same problem years back with CCI, had to drop the hammer twice to get them to go if they went at all. I had the same problem with Remington's #11; they worked fine in my 1858 New Army but not in my TC Thompson. I switched to RWS and have not had the problem again.
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andersonjk4
In most cases but not always the problem exists because of a peened nipple. I would bet if you replaced the nipple with a new one your problem would go away.
From the description of the fit of the cap on the nipple - I would be eve n more inclined to believe you have a peened nipple...
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Peened NIPPLE :chuckle:
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Peened NIPPLE :chuckle:
I guess I couda sayed 'Hammered' but then we might thinking 'drunk' - it is the nipple part that is hard to deal with
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andersonjk4
In most cases but not always the problem exists because of a peened nipple. I would bet if you replaced the nipple with a new one your problem would go away.
From the description of the fit of the cap on the nipple - I would be eve n more inclined to believe you have a peened nipple...
I agree. Seen it happen before. Have filed the nipple just a hair and it worked well.
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it is the nipple part that is hard to deal with
Really, sorry to hear that. :rolleyes: try circular motions :tup:
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I had the same gun and sent it in twice for the cap not firing. The customer service was great, BUT they could not fix the issue. The problem has to do with the PIN hitting inside the nipple (puncturing the cap, not slapping the cap) not on the nipple. My suggestion is get a different gun. The issue continues regardless of the musket or #11. Center punch on a cap is a bad design. I believe it is a major flaw of this particular gun :twocents:
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I had the same gun and sent it in twice for the cap not firing. The customer service was great, BUT they could not fix the issue. The problem has to do with the PIN hitting inside the nipple (puncturing the cap, not slapping the cap) not on the nipple. My suggestion is get a different gun. The issue continues regardless of the musket or #11. Center punch on a cap is a bad design. I believe it is a major flaw of this particular gun :twocents:
Thank you for the explanation... I makes perfect sense to me especially if CVA is trying to use the same firing pin that they use for a 209 gun. I do not own or shoot CVA's at all anymore so I did not know about the action that the Elk Horn has in it.
To set a cap off the edges of the cap have to be driven into the rim of the breech plug and if the hammer is not large enough to cover most of the area of the cap - ignition probably will not occur.
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I have been having this exact problem for a month now. I bought the cva from cabelas and took it to the range with #11's and we could not get a single one to fire. The pin is hitting the cap and making a dent but it is not firing. I left the range and went home and replaced the nipple with the musket cap nipple went and bought the musket caps and guess what??? Nothing. I have now made two trips to the range, bought several different tins of caps and have never even heard my gun go boom. I called Cabelas and they said to go ahead and bring it back and I could get my money back. This is my first Muzzleoader and i really liked the gun but do not think I will get the same one.
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I have been having this exact problem for a month now. I bought the cva from cabelas and took it to the range with #11's and we could not get a single one to fire. The pin is hitting the cap and making a dent but it is not firing. I left the range and went home and replaced the nipple with the musket cap nipple went and bought the musket caps and guess what??? Nothing. I have now made two trips to the range, bought several different tins of caps and have never even heard my gun go boom. I called Cabelas and they said to go ahead and bring it back and I could get my money back. This is my first Muzzleoader and i really liked the gun but do not think I will get the same one.
Again since I do not use a CVA I really should not comment but the more I think about medic6's post the more I believe he may have really tapped on the answer. Because of the the tolerance differences as they build things - if the nipple post was located slightly farther away from the face of the hammer it could have a real effect on whether that hammer could reach the cap - strike it hard enough to force the cap down on the edge of the rim to get ignition....
Somebody with one of these rifles willing to do an experiment, could install everything correctly see if it ignited caps then if it didn't back the breech plug out about an 1/8 of a turn and try again. See how far out you would have to turn the bp to get consistent ignition. Kinda wish I had one now to look at and try...
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Screw the musket cap nipple on that bad boy and that will fix it!
X2 :tup:
X3 :tup:
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Thanks for all the great info guys. After reading all of these posts I would have to agree that it is probably a case where the nipple and firing pin are just a fraction too far apart and the cap is not hitting the edge of the nipple with enough force to ignite it. When I get the time I will try what Sabotloader suggested and try backing the breech plug out and see if I can get regular ignition that way. I may have to look into getting a different nipple like wadu1.
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I'm not familiar with the CVA bighorn. If it's a sidelock like my CVA Colorado Musket Mag then the nipple allignment is critical. If my nipple isn't perfectly alligned with the hammer I get misfires also. It was the same with #11's and musket caps. Mine has to hit perfectly flush in order to fire. Now I shoot a T/C Black Diamond X/R and don't have that issue.
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I'm not familiar with the CVA bighorn. If it's a sidelock like my CVA Colorado Musket Mag then the nipple allignment is critical. If my nipple isn't perfectly alligned with the hammer I get misfires also. It was the same with #11's and musket caps. Mine has to hit perfectly flush in order to fire. Now I shoot a T/C Black Diamond X/R and don't have that issue.
The Big Horn is a Knight not a CVA...
http://www.knightrifles.com/muzzleloader-bighorn/ (http://www.knightrifles.com/muzzleloader-bighorn/)
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I assume your using pellets in that Elkhorn if you are then as noted before get the Musket nipple from CVA (cheap) and RWS Musket caps and you wont have a misfire again
The Gentleman at the Puyallup Muzzleloading supply told me CCI reduced the charge recently on the #11 s because they are also used in Civil war reinactments and the only people still using them are the Pacific NW States everyone else using 209's
Hope that Helps I learned the hard way
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I assume your using pellets in that Elkhorn if you are then as noted before get the Musket nipple from CVA (cheap) and RWS Musket caps and you wont have a misfire again
The Gentleman at the Puyallup Muzzleloading supply told me CCI reduced the charge recently on the #11 s because they are also used in Civil war reinactments and the only people still using them are the Pacific NW States everyone else using 209's
Hope that Helps I learned the hard way
I'm using Triple 7 ffg and CCI #11 mag caps. I've had absolutley no problems with getting the powder to ignite once the cap does. My problem lies with getting the caps to pop.
I'm thinking about getting a few different nipples to try and see if maybe a little diffent nipple would help.
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I assume your using pellets in that Elkhorn if you are then as noted before get the Musket nipple from CVA (cheap) and RWS Musket caps and you wont have a misfire again
The Gentleman at the Puyallup Muzzleloading supply told me CCI reduced the charge recently on the #11 s because they are also used in Civil war reinactments and the only people still using them are the Pacific NW States everyone else using 209's
Hope that Helps I learned the hard way
I do not think think this is intirely true. There are 2 commonly used #11 caps. The regular #11 which is the reduced charge and the #11 Mag cap which produces the same temerature heat and chage as does the Musket cap. An even hotter cap is the RWS 1075+.
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:yeah:
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I assume your using pellets in that Elkhorn if you are then as noted before get the Musket nipple from CVA (cheap) and RWS Musket caps and you wont have a misfire again
The Gentleman at the Puyallup Muzzleloading supply told me CCI reduced the charge recently on the #11 s because they are also used in Civil war reinactments and the only people still using them are the Pacific NW States everyone else using 209's
Hope that Helps I learned the hard way
I'm using Triple 7 ffg and CCI #11 mag caps. I've had absolutley no problems with getting the powder to ignite once the cap does. My problem lies with getting the caps to pop.
I'm thinking about getting a few different nipples to try and see if maybe a little diffent nipple would help.
This thread might hold an answer to the nipple search..
http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php?topic=83394.msg1038079#msg1038079 (http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php?topic=83394.msg1038079#msg1038079)
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Sabotloader - I read that thread of yours and thought that might be a solution to my problems too. But I couldn't find any AMPCO nipples with a 6mm x1 metric thread to fit my Elkhorn. I found on Midway USA a CVA nipple they call the 'Perfect' nipple I thought that might be worth a try. Hopefully I will be able to do some testing sometime this weekend and find out if it is indeed a clearance issue. Does anyone know if it is illegal to discharge caps alone in a muzzleloader in the city limits?
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Sabotloader - I read that thread of yours and thought that might be a solution to my problems too. But I couldn't find any AMPCO nipples with a 6mm x1 metric thread to fit my Elkhorn. I found on Midway USA a CVA nipple they call the 'Perfect' nipple I thought that might be worth a try. Hopefully I will be able to do some testing sometime this weekend and find out if it is indeed a clearance issue. Does anyone know if it is illegal to discharge caps alone in a muzzleloader in the city limits?
Shoot! you are right! - I forgot about the size thing... That is exactly what I had to do - try several different nips till I found the one that worked best for me...
Good luck
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Put a looser fitting nipple on your gun then pinch the cap a little and it will stay on. I've been doing this for 40 years. It works fine. Nipples are tapered and some are too tight, the cap goes on but it hits the wide spot before it gets all the way down to detonate. You need a looser one.
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It is a common cva problem.
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I agree that the caps being too tight on the nipple seems to be at least part of the problem. has anyone ever tried removing a little bit of material from a nipple to get a little looser fit? I was thinking that putting the nipple in a drill and using some 400 or 600 grit wet sand paper might work to get the caps to fit a little looser.
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I agree that the caps being too tight on the nipple seems to be at least part of the problem. has anyone ever tried removing a little bit of material from a nipple to get a little looser fit? I was thinking that putting the nipple in a drill and using some 400 or 600 grit wet sand paper might work to get the caps to fit a little looser.
I go out of the way to get a tight fitting cap on the nipple, especially in the weather I hunt in... + the last thing I want to worry about is the cap working loose on the post and possibly falling off or getting lopsided on the post. But if your hammer/firing pin does not have the force to drive it forward then you really might have a problem. Again I have never looked at a CVA Elkhorn, but if there is not enough spring force to make it work, I am wondering if you can change the spring to a heavier spring?
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I agree that the caps being too tight on the nipple seems to be at least part of the problem. has anyone ever tried removing a little bit of material from a nipple to get a little looser fit? I was thinking that putting the nipple in a drill and using some 400 or 600 grit wet sand paper might work to get the caps to fit a little looser.
I go out of the way to get a tight fitting cap on the nipple, especially in the weather I hunt in... + the last thing I want to worry about is the cap working loose on the post and possibly falling off or getting lopsided on the post. But if your hammer/firing pin does not have the force to drive it forward then you really might have a problem. Again I have never looked at a CVA Elkhorn, but if there is not enough spring force to make it work, I am wondering if you can change the spring to a heavier spring?
You are right about the hammer spring being the cause of the problem and CVA has had this problem on and off for years, at least since I had my first one in the early 80's. The solution though, aside from finding a stronger spring, which I'm not sure that's possible, is to get a looser nipple.
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Great info guys :tup:
Kind of been having the same problem. Never thought about changeing the nipple :bash: Thanks ;)
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Ok, so i was just able to do some testing in the garage. I started by just putting some caps on the nipple and seeing if they would go pop. I tried 3 different caps with no luck. The first I just barely pushed on, the second I pushed on fairly firmly and the last I pushed on as hard as I could. but it didn't seen to matter. So I removed the bolt got my nipple wrench and unscrewed the nipple 1/4 turn. Replaced the bolt stuck a cap on the nipple fairly tight and ... click. Nothing. Tried two more with the same result. So I took the bolt out and unscrewed the nipple another 1/2 turn. Put a cap on and Bang! Finally. Put 4 more caps on and all went bang perfectly. So then just to make sure I screwed the nipple all the way back in and backed it out 1/4 turn again. Again three more caps with no bang. So back came out the bolt and unscrewed the nipple another 1/4 turn, so now its a 1/2 turn out from finger tight. Put on another cap and bang. Put on another and bang... etc. So it looks like its the distance between the firing pin and the nipple that is causing my failure to fire.
Now I need to find a way to extend my nipple or find a nipple that is a little longer than the one I have. Anyone have any ideas?
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Send it back for replace ASAP
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After buying 4 different aftermarket nipples and putting them in my Elkhorn breech plug and then measuring the overall length of the breech plug plus the nipple I found a nipple that gave me the needed extra length to give me consistant ignition of the #11 caps. CVA's Perfect Nipple is the nipple I found that gave me an extra 30/1000" to give my firing pin enough punch to get the caps to pop. I went out to test the new nipple in my gun yesterday. No failure for the caps to fire for 15 shots and many "fouling" cap only ignitions. Looks like my problem is solved. I will be ordering a few more of these Perfect nipples to keep on hand. Thanks to all who offered up suggestions. Hopefully this can help others having the same problem in the future.
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:yeah:
Screw the musket cap nipple on that bad boy and that will fix it!
:yeah: :yeah: :yeah: :yeah: :yeah: :yeah: :yeah: :yeah: :yeah: :yeah: :yeah:
I just bought a musket cap nipple from midwayusa.com and it was here in 3 days. Only cost 9 dollars. It is well worth the investment.
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I was having this same problem today with my Elkhorn, but with the musket caps. My #11 caps shot fine, but the musket caps failed everytime.. I'm going to try that 1/4 turm out on the breech plug for the musket caps. this was a great read, thanks guys.. Just one more question,,,How do I get this elkhorn from kicking the snot out of me?? :yike: My dang shoulder is killing me..
Hunterman(Tony)
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,,,How do I get this elkhorn from kicking the snot out of me?? My dang shoulder is killing me..
Tony,
Try lighter bullets and less powder. You don't need a 400 grain bullet in front of 150 grains of powder to kill a deer. Drop down to 300 grain bullets and 85 - 100 grains of powder.
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,,,How do I get this elkhorn from kicking the snot out of me?? My dang shoulder is killing me..
Tony,
Try lighter bullets and less powder. You don't need a 400 grain bullet in front of 150 grains of powder to kill a deer. Drop down to 300 grain bullets and 85 - 100 grains of powder.
Ya agree with this totally...
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I was only shooting a 295gr. bullet with 100 grains of powder. I may drop down to 80 - 85 grains of powder..
Hunterman(Tony)
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I was only shooting a 295gr. bullet with 100 grains of powder. I may drop down to 80 - 85 grains of powder..
Hunterman(Tony)
Yeah, that will still be plenty of powder.
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Sounds like a lot of work just to make the gun do what it should... Go off! Glad I bought a bighorn! Couple of friends of mine made the same bad buy and had the same problem your talking about they polished the grooves off there bolts so the action is smoother and haven't had a problem since they did that!
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Thanks bobcat :tup: It seems like it has been 100 years sence I shot a muzzle loader..Hell I just might hit something if I keep my shots a point blank, or closer :chuckle: I haven't shot with iron sights in like over 20 years :yike:..
Hunterman(Tony)
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musket cap the only way to go. Throw the 11's away
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After you figure it out, switch to musket caps. Bigger bang and easy to get off the nipple if you don't end up firing.
Whatever you do, DO NOT buy the tins labeled For Reenactment Use. Seems like every store has them on the shelf now and they have about as much powder as a cap gun.
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After you figure it out, switch to musket caps. Bigger bang and easy to get off the nipple if you don't end up firing.
Whatever you do, DO NOT buy the tins labeled For Reenactment Use. Seems like every store has them on the shelf now and they have about as much powder as a cap gun.
Thats exactly the reason I chose to go with #11 caps. As Sabotloader has said many times on the forum, the #11 cap fit way tighter on the nipple. I will be hunting during the late season when rain/snow is almost a given. I want a cap that will be tight and not let water in. I also don't want to have to worry about my cap coming loose and falling off while I'm out in the field. I don't mind having to take my pocket knife out to pry a #11 cap off. The extra protection from the elements and from the cap coming loose is worth the extra few seconds it takes to get the cap off.
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After you figure it out, switch to musket caps. Bigger bang and easy to get off the nipple if you don't end up firing.
Whatever you do, DO NOT buy the tins labeled For Reenactment Use. Seems like every store has them on the shelf now and they have about as much powder as a cap gun.
Thats exactly the reason I chose to go with #11 caps. As Sabotloader has said many times on the forum, the #11 cap fit way tighter on the nipple. I will be hunting during the late season when rain/snow is almost a given. I want a cap that will be tight and not let water in. I also don't want to have to worry about my cap coming loose and falling off while I'm out in the field. I don't mind having to take my pocket knife out to pry a #11 cap off. The extra protection from the elements and from the cap coming loose is worth the extra few seconds it takes to get the cap off.
I certainly want to echo your thoughts... about the #11 with the correct sized nipple. I would not say that it is totally water proof but if it fits the post tightly and you push it on correctly it will be very difficult for water to get up inside the cap. Also this tight fit directs almost all of the heat from the firing the cap down the nipple post to the flash channel and the load.
But, I admit they will not fall off the post easily if you want to decap... and if you decap one I probably would not use that cap for hunting again - at hunting in foul weather.
With a Musket cap you do get a longer burn but the temperature of the burn of a #11 MAG and Musket Cap are the same and the flash channel in both nipples are the same.
It really comes down to what you are comforatable with. For myself it is #11 mag and T7-3f
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I have two traditions vortek muzzleloaders and both of them shoot number 11's. One of the guns I've had for three years now and I have never had a problem with the caps not firing until about a month ago. Now about the fourth trigger pull they will actually go off. But, there is a huge dent in the cap after 1 trigger pull. We're talking like the cap is disfigured so I'm pretty sure I'm getting the correct amount of force to make it go off.
I bought my wife the same muzzle loader this spring and shot it a couple times no problem and about a month ago it started doing the same thing. Took her shooting last night and got so pissed because it would fire worth a damn.
It seems wierd that the guns would be to blame if they quit working at the same time. Every spring I buy a new nipple and breech plug to have on hand and thats what I shoot with that year, so they both have brand new factory nipples.
Is it possible for caps to go bad with age? I've had the same container for almost three years now. any other ideas? Other than the traditional "traditions vorteks suck".
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I don't have a ton of experience with muzzleloaders, but I have been around rifle primers and reloading for a long time and I would assume that the #11 caps would be succeptable to moisture just like primers and powder are. I don't think 3 years is too long to keep caps around as long as they have been stored in a cool dry place and sealed up so they couldn't absorb moisture out of the air. Caps are pretty cheap, so I would go buy a fresh pack of them to rule out your old primers as the cause of the misfires. When you don't have a cap on the nipple is the hammer making contact with the nipple? The problem I was having was that my firing pin was a tiny bit too short and wasn't getting enough contact with the cap to force the cap onto the nipple hard enough to make it fire even though the firing pin was leaving a big dent in the cap.
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I have a CVA Elkhorn and have been doing some load testing with it. I bought a package of CCI #11 Mag caps from Cabela's about 6 months ago and shot them during my first testing. They shot good, but I did get a few that didn't fire. I assumed it was just due to me not pushing the cap onto the nipple hard enough. I started using the back of my capper to push the cap onto the nipple and didn't have any problems after that. Recently I put in an order to Powder Valley and ended up ordering 1000 of the CCI #11 Mag caps because they have much better prices. I went out to the range to do some more testing recently and was having problems with the new caps from PV not firing. Initially I thought I just wasn't getting the caps on tight enough, but then I started trying the old caps I bought from Cabela's and they seemed to fire more regularly, but I still had a couple not fire. This is very frustrating because I don't want to be in a hunting situation and not have my cap fire. The caps do seem to fit on the nipple very tight. The caps that don't fire have to be pryed off the nipple with a pocket knife or little screwdriver and it takes considerable force to pop them off. The firing pin is leaving a nice mark in the caps and usually busts the charge in the cap up when it hits it. Has anyone experienced this before? Do I have a bad batch of caps, or am I not getting my caps on tight enough?
I had the same problem with the same gun. I tried everything and could not get it to fire consistently. According to CVA it was a common problem but the had no solutions that worked. Get rid of it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I shoot a Hawken type ML so I have no practical experience with Inlines. That being said, the principle is the same. Most misfires are due to the cap not being fully seated on the nipple. I have formed the habit of letting the hammer down gently on the cap and pushing on the hammer spur to make sure the cap is tight on the nipple. (Might be more difficult or even impossible to do on an inline.) Second, nipples get flattened down with repeated firing, especially when dry firing,much like a chisel gets mushroomed from repeated hammer blows. If replacing a nipple, make sure it is shaped right to accept the cap. I had to remove the nipple on a brand new rifle and chuck the nipple in a drill and work it with a file to even get a cap to seat on it. Third, although I've never owned an inline ML, I've seen many that the hammer part of the bolt stops just short of hitting the nipple. I would think this would be a major cause of misfires. Make sure the hammer makes firm contact with the nipple. If there is no adjustment, try a different nipple, or put a thin washer under the nipple to take up the space. Muzzle loaders always have had to be "tinkered with" to get them to work. That's why they're called "Primitive Weapons". :chuckle:
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I am glad I remembered this thread a big help. Just got back from bow hunting in MN on Wednesday and decided to take my CVA out and fire it for the first time. I know way late in the game. fired on every second or third trigger pull. I had different nipples but forgot backing out the breach and nipple tomorrow go to by the CVA perfect nipple and hunt tomorrow evening. This was a big help. :tup:
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Russ glad this thread could be of help to someone else. I shot my elkhorn again this weekend and only had one failure to fire and that was all my fault for not firing a cap or at least using the nipple pick after I cleaned the barrel. I didn't have any caps not fire with the perfect nipple. I did notice that I had to use my nipple pick before every shot or else I would get slight hang fires.