Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: rebal69972 on July 22, 2012, 12:18:10 AM
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I'm starting now looking for a long range shooter. I know I want good power out to 900 yards or so, I'm not sure what calaber to go with or how to figure out what shoots best at long range. I know I don't need or really want a 50 cal and the wife would kill me when I went to buy ammo. Anyway what would you all say is the best rifle?
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Are you wanting to hunt with it or shoot steel? You will have guys post in this that have hit a few plates out there with a 308 and think it's the cats meow :rolleyes: If you are talking about power I am guessing you are talking hunting. You need to go to magnum to get what you need to make clean kills out there at that range. I am a big fan of the 338 mags. I run a 340wby as my long range hunting rifle. I am building another 340wby as we speak. 180-300g bullets. Bullets are a huge factor in a decision on making kills at that range. You will see a lot of guys running wildcats 7mm/300 rums/338 rums/338 lapua/30-378wby/340wby/338 edge etc. All are fine choices. You can find a few good programs and play with bullet choice and etc. That will give you a idea what the guns are doing out there. Most bullets need to be running around 1800fps to preform well on game animals. Some bullets still function well at those ranges and some don't. I put more into the bullet then the gun used to get it there. There are a lot of great choices. If you are buying ammo none of them are cheap to shoot :chuckle: If you are not a hand loader I would look at the 300 rum and 338 rum. Ammo is pretty easy to find and they can do the job at that kind of range.
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Remington 700, 26" barrel, .338 Lapua.
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What are you wanting to hunt with it?
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There is no magic caliber for 900 yards, for those who have done it and not just read about it. A animal dies the same at 900 as it does at 300. Holes kill stuff!!! Anything from a 6.5/140gr at 2800+ to a 300gr .338 Berger Hybrid at 2800+ is going to flat out kill a big game animal.
Now the the fun part is watching people take a crap rifle, frost it with a crap scope, rings and bases, stuff it with cheap crap fodder, then put a total long range Internet dumb azz expert as the driver/pilot.
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I believe it is as Bhammer eluded to.....the driver is more important than the car. These days with bullet options and manufacturing abilities a 900 yard gun is simply not that exotic. A 900 yard shooter capable of making one shot kills at that range is another story. Most (me included) simply don't have the place or time to practice at that kind of range to become hunting profecient. The ability to hit steel at 900 is completely unrelated to ability to hit vitals in the field. However, if you have rifle and the time to work up the skill then have at it.
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I'm starting now looking for a long range shooter. I know I want good power out to 900 yards or so, I'm not sure what calaber to go with or how to figure out what shoots best at long range. I know I don't need or really want a 50 cal and the wife would kill me when I went to buy ammo. Anyway what would you all say is the best rifle?
With out looking into your background, how much time do you practice at distance? At all for that matter?
To purchase a 900 yard capable rifle off the shelf, thats getting easer than yesteryear. But it truly is the shooter.
It would help if you actually described what you want to do with the rifle at 900 or so yards.
Also if you are buying ammo for this rifle, you are going to be limited even more.
If you reload, options will go up, cost will go down, accuracy will go up, practice time should go up as well.
All that being said, for an off the shelf rifle look toward a 700 Remington in 300 WM in one of their heavy barrel models, then save up for some good glass.
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In a factory rifle, go buy a Remington Sendero in either 300RUM or 7 Rem Mag. Skim bed it, tune the trigger and put good optics and a cheekpiece on it. Shoot the hell out of it until the barrel is shot. This will give you the practice and confidence one needs to pull off FIRST round hits at extended ranges. By the time the barrel is worn out, you will have a good idea of what you really want to end up with in a long range hunting rifle.
The other option is to go full out and get a custom to start with setup to do the task at hand.
900yds doesn't require a cannon to do the job. Shot placement is key as stated above. Any of the larger 6.5's, 7 and 300 mags will do the job easily.
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I believe it is as Bhammer eluded to.....the driver is more important than the car. These days with bullet options and manufacturing abilities a 900 yard gun is simply not that exotic. A 900 yard shooter capable of making one shot kills at that range is another story. Most (me included) simply don't have the place or time to practice at that kind of range to become hunting profecient. The ability to hit steel at 900 is completely unrelated to ability to hit vitals in the field. However, if you have rifle and the time to work up the skill then have at it.
Bingo! I know plenty of guys that can ring steel all day but can't shoot hair or fur worth chit. Funny to see some of these guys post their long range shooting abilities when I have personally witnessed them totally botch 100 and 200 yard shots due to the fact they had a less than perfect field shooting position on a non static target with a pulse.
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Good article on "Making a case for the .308" :chuckle:
http://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/308-winchester-1.php (http://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/308-winchester-1.php)
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:chuckle: Here we go :chuckle: Note 600 yards and not 900. At 600 yards they fall into that 1800fps and 1000-1100 foot pounds of energy. Which is about the minimum on both one wants for hunting. add 300 yards on that and its not very pretty :chuckle: :chuckle:
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:chuckle: Here we go :chuckle: Note 600 yards and not 900. At 600 yards they fall into that 1800fps and 1000-1100 foot pounds of energy. Which is about the minimum on both one wants for hunting. add 300 yards on that and its not very pretty :chuckle: :chuckle:
:chuckle: Yeah.. I posted that one for you.
I agree if you are going to be shooting animals at 900 yards then the .338's fit the bill. For everything I will ever personally do in the lower 48 a .308 or .30-06 will fit the bill.....but then... I haven't rifle hunted for anything but coyote in 20 years.
I may try to make it over and do an Idaho whitetail rifle hunt this season.
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:tup: Bouncing steel is one thing, putting a animal down clean is another. Nothing wrong with a 308, just drives me nuts when guys shoot steel at 1000 yards with them and then say they are a great long range hunting gun :chuckle:
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:tup: Bouncing steel is one thing, putting a animal down clean is another. Nothing wrong with a 308, just drives me nuts when guys shoot steel at 1000 yards with them and then say they are a great long range hunting gun :chuckle:
I agree...a .308 is certainly no 1,000 yard hunting rifle.
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Ishoot a sendero in 300 rum with a few modifications. It has a Burris fullfeild tac30 scope with good rings and bases. The optics are by no means nightforcr quality but I have tested going back and forth between 300 yards and 1000 yards settings and it tracks very well. I am shooting 215 grain Berger bullets at 2950. As said before it is mainly the driver... I am far from an expert but am progressing each time I shoot
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Ishoot a sendero in 300 rum with a few modifications. It has a Burris fullfeild tac30 scope with good rings and bases. The optics are by no means nightforcr quality but I have tested going back and forth between 300 yards and 1000 yards settings and it tracks very well. I am shooting 215 grain Berger bullets at 2950. As said before it is mainly the driver... I am far from an expert but am progressing each time I shoot
:tup: :tup: :tup: Thats what makes it work!
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I would look at 7rem mag. You'll get the long range trajectory and better long range efficiency than a .300, and it wont kick as much as a .300. (if you cant shoot more than 10 rds without flinching you wont get good) Go to http://www.ballisticstudies.com/ (http://www.ballisticstudies.com/) adn read what he has to say about long range performance of the different rounds, especially the 7's. this is a guy in new zealand who has shot feral goats, pigs etc, at long range.. That said plan to reload- as proper long range ammo can get expensive, and you will need to really get some practice in at long range.. do the research on a proper scope, as a good scope with a proper bdc will be well worth it.. then of course find a place where you can practice past 500yds..
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The big 7's & 30's will get the job done and allow a guy to practice a lot. Most beginners never shoot the 338's to their potential. I to enjoy watching the self proclaimed long range guys. Some of them just can't get the job done on living things.
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A bit off topic, but do Leupold scopes work well as dial in scopes?
I have killed plenty of animals at 500 to 600 but never shot at 1000, but I am wanting to set up a 300 RUM or a 30/378 for longer range shooting.
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If you go with a vx3 LR or a mark 4 they work very well. I am ordering another VX3 LR 8.5-25X50 to go on this new gun. I have 3 of them and they all track true. I also like the 6.5-20x50 for a long shooter.
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What about the .300 WSM ???
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If you go with a vx3 LR or a mark 4 they work very well. I am ordering another VX3 LR 8.5-25X50 to go on this new gun. I have 3 of them and they all track true. I also like the 6.5-20x50 for a long shooter.
Thanks Matt, I figured as much but wanted to double check with someone. I have a property that has targets all set up from 400 out to 1000. The military practices there, I have permission to use the targets so figured I should take advantage. :tup:
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Dang right you should!!!! :chuckle:
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If you go with a vx3 LR or a mark 4 they work very well. I am ordering another VX3 LR 8.5-25X50 to go on this new gun. I have 3 of them and they all track true. I also like the 6.5-20x50 for a long shooter.
Thanks Matt, I figured as much but wanted to double check with someone. I have a property that has targets all set up from 400 out to 1000. The military practices there, I have permission to use the targets so figured I should take advantage. :tup:
Sounds like the area Carl Taylor uses for his training and matches. If it is, what a place to practice!
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Yep, I lease the hunting there, he gave me permission last year to use his targets but I never have yet.
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Sounds like it's time to build!!!! :IBCOOL:
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Dale I have a wby 30-378 accumark and a custom 378-338 both have the 6.5 to 20 by 50mm leopold on them and then I had leopold put the bullet drop dials on them and I think they work really well and we shot at water jugs out to 1000 and ones the yardages are set it works then on the side of the gun I have a lamenated strip that has the numbers for my yardages.
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Dale I have a wby 30-378 accumark and a custom 378-338 both have the 6.5 to 20 by 50mm leopold on them and then I had leopold put the bullet drop dials on them and I think they work really well and we shot at water jugs out to 1000 and ones the yardages are set it works then on the side of the gun I have a lamenated strip that has the numbers for my yardages.
All my longer range type guns have the holdover out to 600 taped on the stocks. :chuckle:
I have 1 Leupold VXIII scope with Butler Creek dials on it. But I am thinking of pulling the trigger on a new Leupold like Matt mentioned with the factory dials, only maybe a 40mm unless that is not a good idea. Do they have to be 50mm for long range shooting? Those big 50mm scopes are tough to get in and out of scaboards.
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What about the .300 WSM ???
That's a good caliber, I think some of the others have an edge, but the WSM will do the trick. :tup:
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I'm starting now looking for a long range shooter. I know I want good power out to 900 yards or so, I'm not sure what calaber to go with or how to figure out what shoots best at long range. I know I don't need or really want a 50 cal and the wife would kill me when I went to buy ammo. Anyway what would you all say is the best rifle?
But just think how much fun it would be to play around with a 50. :chuckle:
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It's a reverse engineering thing. Look at the bullet diameter and BC you prefer, crunch the numbers for your velocity window. Then decide on what case or parent case for that matter will meet your requirements. I have always looked at what distances I will be shooting and what game I will be taking, decided on my bullet then chose the cartridge/ case to push it.
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I'm starting now looking for a long range shooter. I know I want good power out to 900 yards or so, I'm not sure what calaber to go with or how to figure out what shoots best at long range. I know I don't need or really want a 50 cal and the wife would kill me when I went to buy ammo. Anyway what would you all say is the best rifle?
But just think how much fun it would be to play around with a 50. :chuckle:
I'll take a big .338 over a .50 any day when it comes to big game hunting.
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I have been watching that topic about the 375 RUM Improved.... sounded interesting, probably tough going through the process to make brass though. :dunno:
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The 300 RUM is sweet and will do anything that you want it too. You can buy a Rem 700 BDL just for the action, buy a Krieger barrel, get a custom stock and a Jewell trigger, blue print the action. It is a cheaper way to build your own custom long range gun. And if you want to go a little bit further you could get a poor mans Lapua, with the 338 RUM, it is only a little slower than the Lapua and it uses the same action as the 300 RUM.
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The 300 RUM is sweet and will do anything that you want it too. You can buy a Rem 700 BDL just for the action, buy a Krieger barrel, get a custom stock and a Jewell trigger, blue print the action. It is a cheaper way to build your own custom long range gun. And if you want to go a little bit further you could get a poor mans Lapua, with the 338 RUM, it is only a little slower than the Lapua and it uses the same action as the 300 RUM.
Poor mans Lapua my hindend! The .338 Ultra is faster than the Lapua and the edge is slightly faster than the Ultra with the 300 gr bullets. All the Lapua has is the factory brass by Lapua, the Lapua is not faster than the .338 Ultra Magnum. A guy who has the dedication to match prep factory Remington brass for his .338 Ultra doesn't need a "Lapua" head stamp. I learned that years ago with several heavy .300 Win Mags I had built. My match prepped Winchester brass shot side by side in my .300 Win Mags with a " Lapua " headstamp.
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.338 has lots of great bullet options for long range. Usually higher BC than you can get for 7mm or .30 cal. As the bullet cal increases, the weight of the bullet/volume can increase faster than the increase in cross-sectional area which is a factor in drag (biggest is velocity). So the bigger bullets overcome the drag forces better to retain velocity--and wind drift too. A .50 cal will demonstrate this well especially with the A-max. But the .50s are usually a pain to carry around. The .338s are usually the balance of portability and range/energy. There are also the .408/.416 long range rounds, but I haven't got to play with them......yet.
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The 300 RUM is sweet and will do anything that you want it too. You can buy a Rem 700 BDL just for the action, buy a Krieger barrel, get a custom stock and a Jewell trigger, blue print the action. It is a cheaper way to build your own custom long range gun. And if you want to go a little bit further you could get a poor mans Lapua, with the 338 RUM, it is only a little slower than the Lapua and it uses the same action as the 300 RUM.
Poor mans Lapua my hindend! The .338 Ultra is faster than the Lapua and the edge is slightly faster than the Ultra with the 300 gr bullets. All the Lapua has is the factory brass by Lapua, the Lapua is not faster than the .338 Ultra Magnum. A guy who has the dedication to match prep factory Remington brass for his .338 Ultra doesn't need a "Lapua" head stamp. I learned that years ago with several heavy .300 Win Mags I had built. My match prepped Winchester brass shot side by side in my .300 Win Mags with a " Lapua " headstamp.
My bad, I was always told that the 338 RUM was about 200 fps slower, I do not have any experience with the Lapua. My long range gun is a custom Rem 700 in the 300 Win mag. caliber. I just say that the 338 RUM is the poor mans Lapua because the ammo and rifles are a bit cheaper.
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The 300 RUM is sweet and will do anything that you want it too. You can buy a Rem 700 BDL just for the action, buy a Krieger barrel, get a custom stock and a Jewell trigger, blue print the action. It is a cheaper way to build your own custom long range gun. And if you want to go a little bit further you could get a poor mans Lapua, with the 338 RUM, it is only a little slower than the Lapua and it uses the same action as the 300 RUM.
Poor mans Lapua my hindend! The .338 Ultra is faster than the Lapua and the edge is slightly faster than the Ultra with the 300 gr bullets. All the Lapua has is the factory brass by Lapua, the Lapua is not faster than the .338 Ultra Magnum. A guy who has the dedication to match prep factory Remington brass for his .338 Ultra doesn't need a "Lapua" head stamp. I learned that years ago with several heavy .300 Win Mags I had built. My match prepped Winchester brass shot side by side in my .300 Win Mags with a " Lapua " headstamp.
My bad, I was always told that the 338 RUM was about 200 fps slower, I do not have any experience with the Lapua. My long range gun is a custom Rem 700 in the 300 Win mag. caliber. I just say that the 338 RUM is the poor mans Lapua because the ammo and rifles are a bit cheaper.
A rifle build is a rifle build nothing cheaper about one or the other with the same components. Cost exactly the same to load for when your running Nosler Custom .338 RUM brass at 2.24 a piece, not counting the shipping. So if you sit down and do the math let's say at a 1500 round barrel life the .338 Lapua or the Ultra Magnum Are going to cost you close to 2200.00-2500.00 in components powder, bullet, brass and primers to shoot out that first chambering. Thats using a Berger 300 gr Hybrid and figuring 5 firings per piece of brass.
Bargain shooting the big magnums is almost non existent unless a guy scores a smoking deal on bulk components.
Also when it comes to guys shooting the Nosler Accubond 250's it would be better to shooting the Nosler 225's. With their BC and the added velocity. Shooting a 250 is taking a step back.
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I want to use it for hunting i could use my other rifles for shooting steel. Probable hunting yote at first till I'm confident with my ability then to larger game. I have rem 700 in 308 but 600 yards is pushing it. I do plan on loading my own brass. I do have the time and a decent range to use well it's not a range but it is over 1000 yards. For the last 10 years my long range shooting has been 60 yards I bow hunt and even went to hunting yotes with a shotgun. Before I went to bow hunting I love to push my 06 to the max. I would like to build my own weapon. I have been leaning to the 338. But not real sure yet. The 50 cal would be a blast for steel but damn shot an elk with 1 and it's killed, cleaned and cooked.
Sorry this is so random I tried to answer in order
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You would be supprised by how little damage a 50 has on game animals. If you just shoot them threw the lungs it's not that bad. If you shoot them threw the shoulder you will have a mess!
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I own a 338 win and can tell you the 225gr accubonds do hold an edge over the 250gr like hammer said. Im one of the guys that can hit steel well but if you throw a heart beat in the target you can call it dead. Im not saying that steel isnt great for practic but if you always shoot in perfect conditions youll never perform in the field. Find a cal that you can handle has the energy needed and start shooting. Know your limits, learn to read the wind and other conditions because at that range it can make a wounded animal over a dead one. The big 30-338 cals would be the best bet form what Ive learned. Longest shot ive taken on a living target was a coyote at over 500yds with a 223. Know your gun bullet and ability.
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why 900 yards ? sounds like you have a place already in mind to hunt..either way if you want a hunting gun,a real death stick, i would get somthing in the 8 pound range in a reg magnum size caliber,put a break on there and a jewell triger(very important)..then do your best to shoot out the barrel..have your 2nd barrel be the krieger..the rifle is prolly the least of your worries when making those longer shots..just my :twocents:
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Your bow shooting may come in handy for your long range shooting. The importance of form carries over.
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I own a 338 win and can tell you the 225gr accubonds do hold an edge over the 250gr like hammer said. Im one of the guys that can hit steel well but if you throw a heart beat in the target you can call it dead. Im not saying that steel isnt great for practic but if you always shoot in perfect conditions youll never perform in the field. Find a cal that you can handle has the energy needed and start shooting. Know your limits, learn to read the wind and other conditions because at that range it can make a wounded animal over a dead one. The big 30-338 cals would be the best bet form what Ive learned. Longest shot ive taken on a living target was a coyote at over 500yds with a 223. Know your gun bullet and ability.
Here's a sexy box of 225gr .338 Nosler Accubonds that showed up from Shootersproshop yesterday. Now that's what I call, one fun box!!!! ;) :tup:
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi90.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk269%2Flandonmoses%2Fphoto-164.jpg&hash=f470284b90dee4d17570a383f399a1d8e8ed0a5d)
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Bigger, I love you.
P.S. I hate you!
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:tup: Sweet! I snagged a few hundred myself not long ago they are great bullets :twocents:
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7mm short action ultra mag, with the proper load it is very deadly at long range, it still packs plenty of energy to tbone somethn at 900 yds, the biggest thing is practice, practice and more practice, minutes of wind come in to play alot....... :twocents:
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7mm short action ultra mag, with the proper load it is very deadly at long range, it still packs plenty of energy to tbone somethn at 900 yds, the biggest thing is practice, practice and more practice, minutes of wind come in to play alot....... :twocents:
Any of the 7mm's launching the heavier VLD bullets are a serious contender at distance, 190 Matrix, 189 & 177 Cauterucio's. They performed well in my 30" 7mm WSM.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi90.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk269%2Flandonmoses%2Fphoto-18.jpg&hash=dadcc61295e997758f970c789b049333bf5d411e)
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i figure what ever rifle I end up getting i will spent every extra second i have shooting. I'm not the type of person that sights in the weekend before season. i know the long part of this will be getting the right load, that is after getting the rifle.
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i figure what ever rifle I end up getting i will spent every extra second i have shooting. I'm not the type of person that sights in the weekend before season. i know the long part of this will be getting the right load, that is after getting the rifle.
what you said is 100% correct but one thing people forget about and i dont know what kind of long range experience you have but when you shoot long distance especially, every little thing you do affect the impact, in the military we use to do dime exercises to get you use to the trigger and then breathing is probbaly the biggest factor with trigger squezze that one has to master before shootn long range, my furthest shot was 4580ft at a basketball size rock i hit it 2 times out of 2 shots, it was so much fun, and it really makes you respect how good equipment can be when set up the right way.....good luck to ya sir
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My buddy just bought the Savage Long range hunter in 7mm. He immediatly sent it to Aaron and Mike Davidson to have them put a Nightforce on it and build the bullet to match the scope/gun combo. He also got the handheld computer and windometer to finish the package. For only around $4,000 he should have a pretty good system. But i told him unless he practices every waking minutes he has, he will only have an expensive toy.
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truer words were never spoken furbearer and i know there is alot of guys out there that are a hell of alot better shots than i am, i can honestly say that i dont practice enough to be shootn at animals past 400yds, but your buddies toy that he is buying sure sounds like fun.
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I saw a good topic on cold barrell shoot last night on ch406 . a clean cold bore will throw a bullet off a ton at longer distances , so remember when hunting a slightly foulled barrel is a good idea . For me it will be a 6.5x284 with a break I want to see impact through the scope . 140 vld !
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I saw a good topic on cold barrell shoot last night on ch406 . a clean cold bore will throw a bullet off a ton at longer distances , so remember when hunting a slightly foulled barrel is a good idea . For me it will be a 6.5x284 with a break I want to see impact through the scope . 140 vld !
Why? (I have never noticed this problem)
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I saw a good topic on cold barrell shoot last night on ch406 . a clean cold bore will throw a bullet off a ton at longer distances , so remember when hunting a slightly foulled barrel is a good idea . For me it will be a 6.5x284 with a break I want to see impact through the scope . 140 vld !
Why? (I have never noticed this problem)
Then you've lived a sheltered firearms life. ;)
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I have argued that topic several hundred times with people. I have clients shoe up with fresh newly cleaned barrels ready to go hunting. I always make people shoot them before we hunt. Most of my guns will throw a bullet from a clean bore. Maybe not enough to be a problem at 200 yards or less but still off the mark.
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I saw a good topic on cold barrell shoot last night on ch406 . a clean cold bore will throw a bullet off a ton at longer distances , so remember when hunting a slightly foulled barrel is a good idea . For me it will be a 6.5x284 with a break I want to see impact through the scope . 140 vld !
Not sure a break is needed to see the impact using that caliber?
I can see the impact with my swede and no break.
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I have argued that topic several hundred times with people. I have clients shoe up with fresh newly cleaned barrels ready to go hunting. I always make people shoot them before we hunt. Most of my guns will throw a bullet from a clean bore. Maybe not enough to be a problem at 200 yards or less but still off the mark.
:yeah:
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I saw a good topic on cold barrell shoot last night on ch406 . a clean cold bore will throw a bullet off a ton at longer distances , so remember when hunting a slightly foulled barrel is a good idea . For me it will be a 6.5x284 with a break I want to see impact through the scope . 140 vld !
Not sure a break is needed to see the impact using that caliber?
I can see the impact with my swede and no break.
I always shoot on my highest power setting, usually 20x plus. When I have time to set up on a animal at distance. On the higher power setting the field of view is smaller. It takes less recoil to loose a complete sight picture due to recoil with higher magnification. I have been and always will be a huge supporter of muzzle brakes, they just make everything more comfortable, recoil, sight picture etc. They are a huge plus when you are by yourself spotting your own shots, especially Rockchucks at distance. When it comes to hunting, recoil and the noise of the muzzle brake seam to not even matter in the moment of shooting a big game animal, if a shot has to be taken without hearing protection. Which is very rare, here in Central WA 99 percent of our big game shots are 300 yards plus, most often than not there is time to use hearing protection. I use a light weight set of electronic muffs that I just keep on my head above my ears and pull them down when it's "GO" time.
Some times when the ground is wet and distance shots are involved, you don't get a dust cloud signature at distance from impact and with a brake it is nice to watch your bullet flight path at distance from it contrail, you can watch the bullet track clean to the target and make corrections quicker. The 6.5-284 with a brake is one SEXY, capable, smooth shooting rifle.
Lower power scopes for me are a handicap it big open country when your trying to put points on a buck or confirm a true spike 300 yards or more out. Not all hunting situation allow you to get a spotting scope into the game before a call has to be made to make the shot. At 20x your aiming at that "Spot" not the animal, at 9x at 300 plus. The aim is more at a portion of the animal, rather than the "Spot". Different hunting situations require different equipment, timber Vs semi-desert etc.
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Sure, makes sense.
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Agree 100% I like to hear people say I don't nerd more then 9 power. Well sure you don't need it but when the animal is 500 yards away and is a speck in tour scope. It sure makes it hard to use the old saying I was taught to shoot with. " aim small miss small" I like having hair in my scope rather then the whole animal :chuckle:
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I have to agree with higher power scopes being a huge plus at distance. I will walk around with my scope on 4.5 but when I have time its on 14 power. I can tell you 9power and a coyote at 500+ isnt the best thing :chuckle:
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Give me a large capacity 7 and a big VLD. Tough combo to beat!
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I saw a good topic on cold barrell shoot last night on ch406 . a clean cold bore will throw a bullet off a ton at longer distances , so remember when hunting a slightly foulled barrel is a good idea . For me it will be a 6.5x284 with a break I want to see impact through the scope . 140 vld !
Why? (I have never noticed this problem)
Then you've lived a sheltered firearms life. ;)
Not sheltered, maybe it has to do with how I clean it. I asked why, because I was wondering if it had to do with some people leaving oil in the barrel instead of running patches until it was completely dry.