Hunting Washington Forum
Big Game Hunting => Bow Hunting => Topic started by: tommyjohnston on July 22, 2012, 10:53:02 AM
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So I started archery shooting at the beginning of this year. I just picked up a new to me Mathews Reezen 7.0 LH bow. I have put about 150 shots through it. I am shooting Beman 340 grain diameter arrows (came with the setup). I am shooting 100 grain field points. I am getting 2 inch groups right about where I put the sights. Then I decided to shoot a couple broadheads on the same arrows also in 100 grain. I am aiming for the same spot as the field points but they are hitting the target 3 inches to the left. Same height of where I am aiming but way left. What could be my problem???? They are grouping within 2 inches way left. The broadheads are NAP thunderheads.
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Move the rest 1/64" to the right and shoot both broadheads and field points. They'll be closer together. Keep moving rest right a tiny bit at a time, and they will both start grouping together, and then you can move your sight to where the group is in the middle.
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If moving the rest in tiny increments doesn't solve it then it's likely you're torquing the bow ever so slightly.
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I had a problem with broadheads a couple of years ago & really had to work on my form to get them to shoot right. I was really glad I didn't start adjusting my bow etc. I would spin test your arrows with the broadheads first & get two perfect spinners at least. Then I would shoot those over a couple of days to make certain it is the bow. Then I would move the rest. Like I said I have wanted to start adjusting my rest, sights etc to correct but was very happy I took my time & made sure of everything else first. Mike
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If my form is ok when I shoot with the field points how is it changing with the broadheads?
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The form is the same, but field tips are more forgiving of form errors and tend to correct themselves faster.
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Because (if your form is perfect), your arrows are not coming off of your bow perfectly straight. In this case, your arrows have the tip slightly to the left, and the broadhead is then "steering" them to the left before the fletching can stabilize the arrow. Hence the POI is left. If your nock was high, the arrows with BHs would hit low. Nock low, BHs would hit high. Field points don't make the arrow plane, or steer it like a BH does.
Make sense?
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Have you paper tuned your bow lately?
Broad heads and field points should hit the same with a tuned bow.
Huntersfriend.Com has good write ups
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I have not paper tuned it personally. I need to get it down to The shop and have this done ASAP. The bow is tuned. It's tuned for a 6'6" guy and im 6'. Big difference!
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Paper tuning is nowhere near the end all be all in tuning. As a matter of fact it is the first step. I strongly suggest you do as todd_id says. You say the bow is "tuned" for a guy who is 6'6" and your 6'? Has the draw length been changed?
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Yes a shorter cam had to be put on.
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This is why I now shoot mechanicals :chuckle:
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This is why I now shoot mechanicals :chuckle:
:yeah:
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This is why I now shoot mechanicals :chuckle:
Maybe I'm wrong, but these are not legal in WA. Correct?
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they are for back woods dreamers if im not mistaken? :IBCOOL:
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This is why I now shoot mechanicals :chuckle:
Maybe I'm wrong, but these are not legal in WA. Correct?
They are only illegal in like 3 states. I live in NY currently where they are legal. And they work AWESOME!!!
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I'm having the same problem, and coincidently with the same grain and brand of broadhead. At 20 yrads, I'm about 4 inches to the left. at 40 about 9 or ten inches to the left. At 50 about a foot. All at the perfect level just left. I think I'll try adjusting in small increments, then adjusting my sights. I feel like i can see the arrow veer to the left, compared to straight shooting field tips. I haven't paper tuned yet.
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You don't need to paper tune. You need to tune your broadhead. Paper tuning is just getting your bow close to where it should be before you broadhead tune, and in reality is just a snapshot of your arrows flight at a particular distance. You are interested in perfect flight, which may not really be occurring with a paper tune.
You probably can see your arrow veering. Move your rest and it should remedy itself.
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And make sure you don't have any fletch contact. A field point can put up with some fletching contact but not a fixed blade broadhead.
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I have no fletching cantact. It makes sense to me now that the three blade broadhead steers the arrow just like the fletchings, but would'nt I want to move it in small increments to the left to straighten it out ? If the front of my arrow is veering left, and I move the rest right, won't it veer further to the left? I need answers because I want to go shoot now!!
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When moving your rest move in the direction the arrow needs to go. Typically when moving your SIGHT you want to "chase" your arrow.
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You move your rest towards your field points. Your broadheads are hitting left because your front end is pointing left of center upon release. Eventually they will match up.
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AH HA !!! now, holding my bow it all makes sense! Going to shoot right now in the rain. Thanks for the advice everyone and sorry for the thread jack.
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I couldn't get them to fly the same. I shot 5 field tips at 5 different small spots at ten yards, all dead on. Shot 1 broadhead at 10, 2 inches left. so I adjusted my rest, 1/32 inch to the right, shot a field tip. Hit inch to the right at ten. Adjusted my sights to field tip. Shot field tip at 10, dead on. Shot broadhead at ten, still shooting left !!!??? Repeated process 2 more times with same result. Maybe i'll just keep shooting field tips till 2 weeks before season, then make sight adjustments for broadheads and shoot only broadheads until season. What could be the problem?
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Could be a spine issue. :twocents:
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Or cam timing. Are we having fun yet?
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Or a release issue?
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Or torque.
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Or misaligned inserts.
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sometimes I feel like I have to alter the torque of my hand when I'm at full draw to keep the arrow from lifting off the rest, this also makes it so my grip wierd. when the pressure should be straight away with main pressure between my thumb and index finger, it is more in the lower palm of my hand. I need to get with a pro so they can tell me whats up. I live in grays harbor, if anyone is close and had some time in the next week or so.
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If you want to create a bit of downward pressure on the arrow (which is a great thing), then simply slide your bottom leg of your D-loop down 1/8" and clamp a brass nock point indicator onto the string as a spacer between the nock and bottom leg of the D-loop. This puts the arrow at the top of the V made by the string as it's at full draw and consequently puts a bit of downward pressure on the arrow. The arrow still stays in the same place in relation to the rest, so the tuning generally isn't thrown off. This should force the arrow to stay on the rest better as you draw.
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If you want to create a bit of downward pressure on the arrow (which is a great thing), then simply slide your bottom leg of your D-loop down 1/8" and clamp a brass nock point indicator onto the string as a spacer between the nock and bottom leg of the D-loop. This puts the arrow at the top of the V made by the string as it's at full draw and consequently puts a bit of downward pressure on the arrow. The arrow still stays in the same place in relation to the rest, so the tuning generally isn't thrown off. This should force the arrow to stay on the rest better as you draw.
good tip!
