Hunting Washington Forum
Big Game Hunting => Bear Hunting => Topic started by: Kc_Kracker on September 24, 2012, 03:52:36 PM
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Just curious what gun, brand, of ammo, and what grain you use?
I have a 300 win mag, it came with a box of Remington 180 gr. So i sighted in with it, and bought more of that. anyone see an issue with that?
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My bear was killed with a 130 gr. Hornady Interlock coming out of my .270.
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I use a 300 WSM with 180gr Nosler Accubonds...now I just need to find the bear :dunno:
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Killed mine with a 300 wm, 208 gr Amax.
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Winchester Model 70 Super Grade, .300 Win Mag, 72.5gr RL-22, WLRM primer, Nosler brass, and a 180gr Barnes TSX. Puts bears and anything for that matter, in the dirt. Real quick!
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Im using this, http://www.remington.com/product-families/ammunition/centerfire-families/premier-core-lokt.aspx (http://www.remington.com/product-families/ammunition/centerfire-families/premier-core-lokt.aspx) is it good ammo? accurate? should I be using a different grain? im still trying to grasp grain and what it means for me.
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As long as what your shooting out of your rifle will hold together and do the damage it'll work. Core-lokt's have killed a lot of animals.
I personally like the Barnes product. Solid copper does good damage and maintains it's mass during expansion no matter how much bone it goes through.
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It really depends on caliber and which bullet. I like the Barnes TSX bullets because of the fact that they retain 95% of their weight upon recovery. What that means to you is, you dont have to shoot a 180-200 grain bullet like you did years ago. Because they dont lose their weight like most bullets do when they expend energy, you can shoot a 150gr (for example) bullet and have it recover the same weight as a conventional 180 grain bullet. That will give you a faster, flatter trajectory for your bullet flight. Not to mention their performance and expansion is as close to perfect as you can make a bullet. With a bullet like that, theres no need to shoot a heavier slower bullet in order to do terminal damage on an animal's vitals, unless you need the kinetic energy for dangerous game. Everybody likes their own cup of coffee though, and people rave about Accubonds, etc. Just personal preference on what people have determined based upon either field testing or reading articles.
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300 rum... With 210 berger vld!!! = dead right in it's tracks!!!
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You def need at least a .50 bmg round or bigger. Anything else won't vaporize the target.
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.300 wsm 165 grain trophys
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300 Rum 165 gr accubond
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30-30 with 170 great hornady interlocks on top of a Max charge of h4895.
30-06 with 165 grain hornady sst on top of near Max dose of h4350.
.45 colt with various loads, 250-315 gr bullets on top of different powders for 950-1200 fps.
I have hunted bears with all of these, but I have yet to get a bear. So I have no idea if they work.
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Ok...above best reply yet.
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50 cal muzzleloader with a 485 gr bullet and 95 grains triple 7.
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Any legal gun I have on me at the time. But, I use a 30-30 winchester, 170 grain bullet, or a .300 wsm tikka t3, 165 grain bullet, or bow with 100 grain arrow head or a .45 single action six shooter.
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.300wsm x bolt here, 180 gr. Still looking for a bear though, but I'm pretty sure it will get the job done when time comes.. :tup:
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so i would be more accurate and less meat damage with a lower grain? how low of grain can you go and still count on immediate massive organ damage?
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Just curious what gun, brand, of ammo, and what grain you use?
I have a 300 win mag, it came with a box of Remington 180 gr. So i sighted in with it, and bought more of that. anyone see an issue with that?
1988 444 Marlin® with 300gr Beartooth® Cast Handload.
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No, lower grain is not necessarily going to give you better accuracy or less meat damage. Out of a 30-06, the 180 core loct is a perfectly matched caliber/grain bullet. What is most important is what load has the best accuracy out of your gun. If you can consistently shoot 1 inch or less 3 shot groups off the bench at 100 yards then you have the right round. I assume you are shooting factory ammo and not reloading so I wont even get into all the bullet/powder combo's you could use. It doesn't matter what you shoot as long as you can shoot it accurately. If the core loct bullets don't shoot accurately then go to something else. I personally like the Winchester Supreme ammo loaded with Accubond bullets. I shoot the Remington 7mm with 160 accubonds, or the .338 win mag with 225 Accubonds. Both are deadly accurate, and put animals down in their tracks as long as I do my part. Practice, practice, practice, experiment with different ammo then practice some more. When you get them dialed in on the bench, then practice free hand. Your shooting ability has way more importance than what ammo you use.
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yes at 100 yards i triple tapped the same hole (3x same spot) sittin on sandbags :rockin: I just have no idea how accurate this will be at 300 or 400 yards? :dunno:
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rem mod 700 7mm stw 168 gr bergers. dead in its tracks :tup:
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yes at 100 yards i triple tapped the same hole (3x same spot) sittin on sandbags :rockin: I just have no idea how accurate this will be at 300 or 400 yards?
Practice, that's the only way you will know. Get a range finder, head out in the hills, range some distances and shoot at them.
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Get a range finder or some other way to accurately measure the longer ranges if you don't have access to an established shooting range that has distances out beyond 100 yards, then fill a bunch of one gallon, plastic milk jugs with water.
Set them at the various ranges and blast away. Generally speaking, accuracy within "Minute-of-Milk Jug" at longer ranges equates to consistent vital zone hits for big game animals. A good rule of thumb I use when helping people who are just starting out is that their, personal max range for shooting at live game is that which they can reliably be expected to put all their rounds into a milk jug.
Filling them with water gives you instant feedback as to hit or miss, just remember to bring all the empties back out and not leave them behind when you are done.
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Oh yeah, in response to your original post question. I am shooting 180 grain Remington Core-loks out of my Remington 700 in .300 Win Mag.
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Sure some wont agree with what I shoot but it does the job.
Rem 700 .243 100gr core lokts
Browning A-bolt 22-250 hornaby v-max 55gr
old military 30-06 winchester supremes 180 gr
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Put it where it needs to go....the most import thing.
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rem .338 ultra mag 225gr accubond!!!! :tup:
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300 rum shooting 215 grain Berger's at 2950 Fps. Flatter than any of the lighter Barnes bullets at distance and causes real damage! :chuckle:
pic is the exit on the bear I killed this year. DRT! Not a step after being hit!
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Oh ya and a 180 grain Remington factory load will do great on bears with a good shot!
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You def need at least a .50 bmg round or bigger. Anything else won't vaporize the target.
This. :chuckle:
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You def need at least a .50 bmg round or bigger. Anything else won't vaporize the target.
This. :chuckle:
:mgun:
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Im using this, http://www.remington.com/product-families/ammunition/centerfire-families/premier-core-lokt.aspx (http://www.remington.com/product-families/ammunition/centerfire-families/premier-core-lokt.aspx) is it good ammo? accurate? should I be using a different grain? im still trying to grasp grain and what it means for me.
Grain, is the weight of the bullet.
Simple example, take two bullets of the same make and powder but different weights
165 grain, will shoot faster, with less drop over distance
180 grain, will have more energy, will be effected by gravity quicker so will have more drop over distance
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Im using this, http://www.remington.com/product-families/ammunition/centerfire-families/premier-core-lokt.aspx (http://www.remington.com/product-families/ammunition/centerfire-families/premier-core-lokt.aspx) is it good ammo? accurate? should I be using a different grain? im still trying to grasp grain and what it means for me.
Grain, is the weight of the bullet.
Simple example, take two bullets of the same make and powder but different weights
165 grain, will shoot faster, with less drop over distance
180 grain, will have more energy, will be effected by gravity quicker so will have more drop over distance
Gravity is a constant. The heavier bullet will travel more slowly so it will not go as far. The benefit of the heavier bullet is it will also be less affected by wind and air friction.
Alchase, didn't mean to step on your toes but I think that explanation was slightly over simplified.
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No Problem at all, thx for the addition :tup:
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300 rum shooting 215 grain Berger's at 2950 Fps. Flatter than any of the lighter Barnes bullets at distance and causes real damage! :chuckle:
pic is the exit on the bear I killed this year. DRT! Not a step after being hit!
Bergers do a lot of damage but that's not necessarily a good thing. They fragment to pieces, and cause a lot of meat damage/loss on an unfortunate miss placed shot (sure, don't miss!). They were designed as a target match grade bullet and people discovered their affect on deer. In my opinion, the Barnes TSX or an Accubond is a far superior hunting bullet, with great accuracy as well. I get 1"-1.25" groups at 300 yards with my .300 and Barnes bullets, and they perform admirably.
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KC_Kracker, those 180gn Remington CorLokts will work fine for bear in this state. That is an under appreciated bullet.
For me? 30cal 'what-ever rifle is in my hand'. Hand loads. 44mag revolver with 250-300gn solids, SP or TC, also handloaded to the hilt.
-Steve
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[quote author=xXLojackXx link=topic=105936.msg1383729#msg1383729 date=1
Bergers do a lot of damage but that's not necessarily a good thing. They fragment to pieces, and cause a lot of meat damage/loss on an unfortunate miss placed shot (sure, don't miss!). They were designed as a target match grade bullet and people discovered their affect on deer. In my opinion, the Barnes TSX or an Accubond is a far superior hunting bullet, with great accuracy as well. I get 1"-1.25" groups at 300 yards with my .300 and Barnes bullets, and they perform admirably.
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can't argue with my results tho. I will agree that accubonds are a great bullet as I shoot them in other rifles. A Barnes will never again find itself in any of my rifles as I do not like them... and I have shot them and killed animals with them. I have killed numerois animals with betters and have never had what I would consider excess meat loss.
I will stand by by comment about Berger's shooting flatter than faster lighter Barnes over distance. All pluses for.me.to use Berger's.
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I also agree with ya on bergers! I will never shoot any other bullet! I have seen lots of animals run from other bullets.. But never a berger!!! They always drop on the spot!! Remember i shoot better i shoot berger!
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Ruger Hawkeye .338 win mag, ss/syn, 250 gr nosler partitions, Leupold vx3 1.5-5.
Great shooting gun, sub moa, no frills, won't break the bank, gets drug up and down the mountians, gets left in the rain all the time...keeps on gettin it done.
BUT, after this spring season on the AK Peninsula, I'm thinking of geting the ruger .416. Had too much crazy stuff go down. Also I really like the Trijicon scopes, wish they had a 1-6 like Leupold does instead of just the 1-4.
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Grain, is the weight of the bullet.
Simple example, take two bullets of the same make and powder but different weights
165 grain, will shoot faster, with less drop over distance
180 grain, will have more energy, will be effected by gravity quicker so will have more drop over distance
Gravity is a constant. The heavier bullet will travel more slowly so it will not go as far. The benefit of the heavier bullet is it will also be less affected by wind and air friction.
Alchase, didn't mean to step on your toes but I think that explanation was slightly over simplified.
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finally i have an answer for dummies!!! :chuckle: thanks that makes a ton of sense.
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outta your 300 the 180,s are a good choice accubonds perform well and hornady interlocks . factory fedral premium throphy bonded bear claws also are a good choice for factory ammo.
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I'm not arguing that Bergers do a lot of damage and animals drop right away. I just wouldn't use them on anything bigger than a deer or maybe a black bear, because they fragment so bad I would question them to penetrate an elk or moose. Thin skinned game is a no brainer.