Post by: Wild Bill on December 10, 2012, 10:02:20 PM
Its not all the time, but about once to twice a week... Enough to try and remember the nearest cliff.
Was hunting at high altitude. Every morning (down low) no probs. In the afternoon on the mountain, she wouldn't start.
Tried a battery...
Dont want to chase my tail while spending a bunch of money... Your thoughts?
I am going to try and tighten up all my grounds tomorrow, and have my alternator tested for good measure and to help with the process of elimination.
I heard to replace my fuel pressure regulator, but that make little sense to me as the starter doesn't even engage.
Correct me if i'm wrong, but if the solenoid is screwy the starter would click?
I am a good parts changer, but a terrible mechanic in the department of trouble shooting.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
WB
Post by: jackelope on December 10, 2012, 10:07:44 PM
Spend $100 and have someone look at it.
Or replace 1 or more parts you will see mentioned in the next 15-20 posts.
A starter going bad will usually click one time.
Maybe those trucks have ignition switch issues. Cant say for sure.
Post by: jackelope on December 10, 2012, 10:12:47 PM
Post by: Wild Bill on December 10, 2012, 10:16:20 PM
I had a alarm system removed that was outdated.... Best I can recall that was around the time the issue started...
WB
Post by: huntnphool on December 10, 2012, 10:21:14 PM
Ill give it a gander....If the aftermarket alarm had a starter kill then the starter wire in the column would have been cut and a relay attached. A lot of companies will leave the relay in the dash when the system is removed, and not all companies wired then "normally closed". If this is the case the relay could be going bad, although most reputable places didn't wire them "normally open" its possible.
I had a alarm system removed that was outdated.... Best I can recall that was around the time the issue started...
WB
Another scenario is they removed the relay and used a butt connector to reconnect the starter wire, it could be a bad crimp and coming loose, although you would think that if that happened it would not go back together once it came apart. Its worth a look though. drop your under dash panel and the steel knee panel, it will be a 10awg purple wire going up to the ignition swith in the ignition swith harness. :twocents:
Post by: jackelope on December 10, 2012, 10:29:07 PM
If you have lights and electronics its not your battery or cables. I'd start with the starter, I believe the solenoid is internal on the GM's. :twocents:not necessarily true re: the cables. Ive seen that problem I mentioned earlier a few dozen times. The dash will light up but no crank, no clicks, etc.
Post by: huntnphool on December 10, 2012, 10:31:57 PM
If it did this and was the battery he would have needed to jump it or charge it, the battery won't charge on its own between cranking with no result and then all of a sudden crank. :twocents:If you have lights and electronics its not your battery or cables. I'd start with the starter, I believe the solenoid is internal on the GM's. :twocents:not necessarily true re: the cables. Ive seen that problem I mentioned earlier a few dozen times. The dash will light up but no crank, no clicks, etc.
Post by: jackelope on December 10, 2012, 10:37:06 PM
I am only saying what I have seen.
Post by: huntnphool on December 10, 2012, 10:45:02 PM
Cables, not battery.I hear ya.
I am only saying what I have seen.
Post by: boonerboy on December 10, 2012, 10:47:57 PM
Post by: boonerboy on December 10, 2012, 10:50:05 PM
Post by: flinger on December 10, 2012, 10:58:56 PM
Replace the relay before ya dump a bunch of money, little black 1inch by 1 inch box on the firewall
Post by: Woodchuck on December 12, 2012, 07:28:48 AM
Post by: swanny on December 12, 2012, 07:35:51 AM
not sure of the year but it is around that year .my kid had the same problem rondom no starts no pattern he replaced starter,battery ,cables still the same results i asked him if he replaced the starter relay on the firewall he said um no i told him replace the stupid relay,about $10 and 8 or 9 months later no problems
Replace the relay before ya dump a bunch of money, little black 1inch by 1 inch box on the firewall
I'm gonna have to give this a try, especially if it's a $10 fix.
I've been battling with mine for a year and a half, new battery, 2 new starters (the 1st replacement actually crapped out). It starts fine most the time, but every couple days it takes a second turn of the key to start.
Funny story on the starter...so I purchased the first one from Schucks or O'Reilly's whatever they were called that day. It crapped out on me and it was a PITA to replace! So I just said screw it and took it to the local shop near my work to have it replaced b/c I was heading out of town and didn't want to deal with replacing it again. I took the old one back to O'Reillys as it was only 3 months old. The manager at the store tried to refuse giving me my money back. He said I had to exchange the starter! I asked him, how am I supposed to exchange a dead starter and what good will it do me when i already replaced it again?! He still said I had to exchange it, then changed his song and said I needed to return it to the exact store I bought it from. I was so pissed at this guy and his lack of customer service I will never visit one of their stores again.
Post by: brokenvet on December 12, 2012, 07:37:34 AM
Post by: CementFinisher on December 12, 2012, 07:45:18 AM
Post by: C-Money on December 12, 2012, 07:45:39 AM
Post by: CAMPMEAT on December 12, 2012, 08:10:14 AM
Post by: jackelope on December 12, 2012, 08:15:25 AM
Battery cables appearing tight but really aren't is king with no crank issue on side post GM, yes check voltage drops. We do see some ignition switch issues. If it does it again, pull it into nuetral and the try it. ;)
Thanks Woody.
Post by: Woodchuck on December 12, 2012, 08:29:02 AM
Post by: Cascade_fisher on December 12, 2012, 08:39:25 AM
Post by: Heredoggydoggy on December 12, 2012, 08:51:07 AM
Post by: Wild Bill on December 12, 2012, 06:13:43 PM
I'll start with the cables and press on...
WB
Post by: Grit dog on December 13, 2012, 11:15:46 AM
Years back, a friend of mine had a starter go out on his Toyota pickup. Went to Shucks (pre-O'Rielly) and bought one. It was a PITA to change. Didn't work, so he took it back and got another one. That one didn't work either. He took it back, refused a third one and got his money back. Went to NAPA and got a starter, and that one worked. Back around '82 I bought a rebuilt carburetor for my Chevy pickup from Shucks, and it was worse than the one I took off. DON"T BUY REBUILT PARTS AT SHUCKS! :twocents:In the same boat with steering pumps on my truck. O reillys did return the last one without exchange no problem as I went back to Napa for the next pump thinking they would be better. FOund out they are both A1Cardone re-built units from Napa and Oreillys, so it was jsut lick of the draw on crappy rebuilt parts. In fact I returned the Oreilly pump in a Napa box. The parts guy peeled the Napa label off and said "ok now it's an Oreillys box."
Starters are probably the same thing.
Post by: Wild Bill on December 16, 2012, 03:04:28 PM
I bought the relay, and checked all the batt cables and grounds ( all were tight, haven't bothered to clean the contact points as of yet).
She hasn't given me any grief yet.
Thanks again.
WB
Post by: flinger on December 16, 2012, 03:16:17 PM