Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: ICEMAN on January 05, 2013, 07:09:11 PM
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Took the wife and kids out shooting today. Continued shoot the zombie/burglar/rapist training... Icy cold wind today, but they performed like troopers. But...continued question from two of them;
Both my wife and daughter are asking if the trigger pull on the small frame lady smiths can be turned down.
Should I or not?
Pro's / Con's
What say you?
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Yes, by a competent gunsmith
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I'm not one for to much customization. If they get familiar with the revolver as is on a range that is good. Just the way I think, know your rifle or pistol. Like the recoil of a magnum rifle is never felt during an actual shot in the field, the trigger pull will not be a factor in the moment of need. But if they want to shoot more accurately for recreation by all means adjust that trigger. There is just something sweet about a gun that is finally tuned just for you. :tup:
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How many shots through it? If it's brand new the trigger should smooth out over time as the metal faces wear smoother.
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How many shots through it? If it's brand new the trigger should smooth out over time as the metal faces wear smoother.
This was my first thought. Double action triggers seem to get better with use. I bought some snap caps and just sat and dry fired thousands of time to break in the last brand new revolver I bought. Got a lot of very cheap trigger time, and smoothed out the pull in the process.
Andrew
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One of the pistols has been in used alot and is well worn in. The other probably only has 200 round through it, so relatively new.
I may consider a minor easing. To me it is not too difficult, but watching them both, they are really having to try hard, and re-adjust their palm to get the proper feel of the creep. Small grips do not also help. Plus, I do feel that Smith and Wesson does crank the trigger up on purpose to keep these lightweight guns in peoples hands...
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Plus, I do feel that Smith and Wesson does crank the trigger up on purpose to keep these lightweight guns in peoples hands...
I never thought of that, but it does make sense.
Andrew
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Yeah, I have a derringer .410/45lc that I can barely touch off... :chuckle:
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Before a custom trigger job on just about any firearm, I start with relatively inexpensive spring swaps that don't lend irreversable non-gunsmith used dremmel tools and files in places where they don't belong. :chuckle: Smiths, usually are pretty smooth, but a tad heavy.
Changing a DA trigger by even as little as one pound pull less, making things feel smoother, is a dramic change.
http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=3&mID=58 (http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=3&mID=58)
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Huh, interesting, thanks, I will check it out!
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Before a custom trigger job on just about any firearm, I start with relatively inexpensive spring swaps that don't lend irreversable non-gunsmith used dremmel tools and files in places where they don't belong. :chuckle: Smiths, usually are pretty smooth, but a tad heavy.
Changing a DA trigger by even as little as one pound pull less, making things feel smoother, is a dramic change.
http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=3&mID=58 (http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=3&mID=58)
I agree, change the springs out. You can go too light on a revolver and then actually have problems with setting the primers off, seen it many times. Look here for spring kits....
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/slide-firing-parts/multiple-spring-kits/miculek-revolver-spring-kit-prod1474.aspx (http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/slide-firing-parts/multiple-spring-kits/miculek-revolver-spring-kit-prod1474.aspx)
http://www.gunsprings.com/Revolvers/cID3 (http://www.gunsprings.com/Revolvers/cID3)
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Another option, thanks everyone!
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There are many good revolver smith's out there. My old one was the best. Unfortunately he died of a heart attack at about 50yo.
But what he did do was leave the springs stock and he just polished things up for me. I have had no light strikes with any primer. Some guys have to use Federal primers as they are softer, mine shoots anything including small rifle primers.
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There are many good revolver smith's out there. My old one was the best. Unfortunately he died of a heart attack at about 50yo.
But what he did do was leave the springs stock and he just polished things up for me. I have had no light strikes with any primer. Some guys have to use Federal primers as they are softer, mine shoots anything including small rifle primers.
I don't knock a gunsmith trigger job where friction points are polished up. Light hammer strikes are always a possibility when changing to lighter springs, but I've been really impressed with Wolf springs in just about any gun I've installed them in. They are a lot cheaper than a professional trigger job. That said, Smiths are usually quite smooth. Rugers, Taurus, Charter Arms and other brands are not known for being as fluid as Smith DA.
-Steve
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I should have mentioned too that I meant Smith and Wesson revolvers.
Funny, I am the opposite on springs, can't stand Wolf springs. I would say it has to do when compared to the other manufacturers, Wolf springs are way more stiff then a comparable ISMI (as an example) listed spring. I have to go down many more pounds in spring weight for a 1911 to get the same "feel" in Wolf springs. Could be different for revolver springs though. :dunno:
In a competition gun or plinker, I would have no problem changing springs in a revolver myself. In a pistol that has the chance to be used for protection, I would get it to a good Smith and Wesson gun smith. It is just too important that it goes bang every time. Really, it probably only needs to be smoothed up a little bit and polishing will do that What is a shame, though, is how easy it is to do a trigger job, I wish Smith and Wesson would just ship either with a good one (or at least a half decent one).
There are many good revolver smith's out there. My old one was the best. Unfortunately he died of a heart attack at about 50yo.
But what he did do was leave the springs stock and he just polished things up for me. I have had no light strikes with any primer. Some guys have to use Federal primers as they are softer, mine shoots anything including small rifle primers.
I don't knock a gunsmith trigger job where friction points are polished up. Light hammer strikes are always a possibility when changing to lighter springs, but I've been really impressed with Wolf springs in just about any gun I've installed them in. They are a lot cheaper than a professional trigger job. That said, Smiths are usually quite smooth. Rugers, Taurus, Charter Arms and other brands are not known for being as fluid as Smith DA.
-Steve
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You could use Flitz Metal polish on the rough spots, doing it yourself. I did that on my Glock and made it a bit smoother, not so gritty feeling. I just used a small piece of rag to do it. :dunno:
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If the trigger feels “crunchy,” than I would have it smoothed out for sure, but if it’s just heavy, I’d leave it alone. In a stressed situation with jacked adrenaline, she won’t have any trouble pulling the trigger until the gun is empty, whereas a too-light trigger could lead to an accidental discharge while drawing the weapon. Especially if she carries it in a purse or deeply concealed holster.
Just my opinion, but I’ve had revolvers for longer than anything else and learning to draw while simultaneously cocking the hammer both increases safe control of the gun and lightens the trigger pull so that first shot goes where it’s supposed to.