Post by: Jonathan_S on January 10, 2013, 03:37:18 PM
Everybody tells me I should be overspined but my arrows are flying straight, I've only shot to 30 yards so far with field points but I can't imagine a problem developing beyond 30?
Will a problem become more apparent when I put on broadheads?
Post by: Instinct on January 10, 2013, 04:20:17 PM
Maybe few other peeps will chime in with better details.
Post by: coyotecrazy on January 10, 2013, 05:45:28 PM
Post by: Rainier10 on January 10, 2013, 07:33:29 PM
Post by: Jellymon on January 10, 2013, 08:14:38 PM
To get any real answers we need to know your poundage, draw length, arrow length, arrow spine, and point weight.
Post by: bowjunkie on January 11, 2013, 09:58:39 AM
shoot what you have if it is working for you keep it
on the chart i am overspined but i have an agressive cam
i shoot slick tricks took my deer at 75 yrds and my elk ant 80yrds with no problems
just remember if it is working for you stay with it
Post by: Jonathan_S on January 11, 2013, 06:02:31 PM
You may not see the arrows fishtailing, and even if they are you can still be accurate with field points. Now too stiff is defiantly better than weak.
To get any real answers we need to know your poundage, draw length, arrow length, arrow spine, and point weight.
#60 Bear Encounter which advertises 310 IBO
27" draw length
28" arrows
arrows are 340
125 point weight
Post by: Instinct on January 11, 2013, 07:45:37 PM
Post by: Jonathan_S on January 11, 2013, 08:03:06 PM
Post by: RadSav on January 12, 2013, 05:02:37 AM
The benefit is that a stiff spined arrow will have a more consistant dynamic spine than one flexing more. Less need to orient spline to a single position on all arrows to bring groupings together. When shooting out of a machine it is the superior arrow.
The down side to shooting too stiff an arrow is it's forgiveness or the lack there of. The dampening of initial inertia and the optimizing of archers paradox within each materials behavior allows for some human mistakes without the effect showing flight issues to such an extreme as a stiffer arrow. An optimized spine will also help points of different configuration and slightly different weights group closer together. The optimized spine will also tend to impact much more in line with the center line of force in the bow. Meaning in general your pins will be more above the center of arrow before launch (much more of an issue when shooting barebow than with sights).
One should always have a good aggressive helical to their fletching for improved flight and forgiveness in all weather conditions. If shooting a stiff spine that helical holds even greater importance.
I do not think I saw where you mentioned the brand and model of arrow you are using. Also the type of fletching used. If I didn't miss something that would make it almost impossible to know whether switching to a 100 grain broadhead would be advisable or not. The 125 grain head is definitely not hurting anything at all. And seeing as how you are already over spined I would probably still recommend the 125 even if it is not necessary for good FOC.
I agree with posts above...it is much better to be over spined than underspined. Much safer too ;)
Optimum spine for the squaw is around a 600 spine though she shoots a 500 spine for weight and durability while hunting. When she has two good eyes she is an elk killing machine out to 60 yards. Broadheads and field points will never group together for her at 500 spine. But none of the deer, elk or antelope have seemed to care :tup:
Post by: owmygulay on January 12, 2013, 06:20:07 PM
Post by: Jonathan_S on January 14, 2013, 12:43:32 PM
Post by: Jonathan_S on January 14, 2013, 12:50:22 PM
It seems that I have better groups at 40 than 20 which is weird but for hunting purposes, I'll be happy with it.
Post by: RadSav on January 14, 2013, 05:22:47 PM
It seems that I have better groups at 40 than 20 which is weird but for hunting purposes, I'll be happy with it.
That's not uncommon if your set-up is not perfectly tuned and your offset/helical is minimal. Spend a little more time getting it tuned and that should go away.
Also, many have the habit of trying to watch there arrows in flight at 20 yards whereas at longer range the arrow comes up into vision on it's own. If you find yourself watching the arrow you'll probably watch it miss more often than not. ;)
Post by: turkeyfeather on January 14, 2013, 05:38:02 PM
Do not switch to the 100 grain tip that was recommended above. It will increase your spine. What arrows and Fletch? Anything on the spring besides d-loop and peep? I will run the numbers through a program I have and see what it says for you.Could you expain this more as to why you think the 125's are better. The reason I ask is cause when I bought a new bow a couple years ago(also a Bear) it was recommended that I switch from the 125's I was using to 100's. Don't know if the 125's would have been better or worse, but at 40 yards I'm insude of 2-3 inches with the 100's.
Post by: RG on January 14, 2013, 05:41:17 PM
Post by: Gamblin Guy on January 14, 2013, 05:47:08 PM
Here's the question you need to ask yourself. Are my shots going where I want them to and are my arrows flying the way I want them to? If the answer is yes then what else matters? I had and archery shop for 7 years, went to the PSE dealer tech school and tuned a ton of bows. Here's what I learned. If it works don't fix it!
What he said....and when I really screwed something up on my bow I could bribe you with a little duck jerky to fix it. :tup:
Post by: Gamblin Guy on January 14, 2013, 05:52:10 PM
Here's another resource too...
Post by: RG on January 14, 2013, 06:06:20 PM
Here's the question you need to ask yourself. Are my shots going where I want them to and are my arrows flying the way I want them to? If the answer is yes then what else matters? I had and archery shop for 7 years, went to the PSE dealer tech school and tuned a ton of bows. Here's what I learned. If it works don't fix it!
What he said....and when I really screwed something up on my bow I could bribe you with a little duck jerky to fix it. :tup:
Hey! We had a bunch of people over yesterday. The duck jerky was the hit of the party. No BB's in anybody's teeth either.
Post by: jechicdr on January 14, 2013, 09:49:11 PM
Post by: RG on January 14, 2013, 10:55:41 PM
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=video+arrow+flight&view=detail&mid=59F75A790821104C7F5D59F75A790821104C7F5D&first=0&qpvt=video+arrow+flight (http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=video+arrow+flight&view=detail&mid=59F75A790821104C7F5D59F75A790821104C7F5D&first=0&qpvt=video+arrow+flight)
Post by: Jonathan_S on January 16, 2013, 01:25:55 PM
I went to the shop last night and paper tuned, got all the fishtailing out of my flight and ended up getting my nock point moved up as well and the arrows are flying excellently now - through paper and my groups are tighter under 30 yards. Took about 20 shots to get it right.
I tried a few shots with a 100 grain point just to see the difference - in this case made the problem far worse. With a 125 grain point they shoot much better and my FOC is 13.3% for what it's worth.
BOW: 60 lb Bear Encounter RTH
Draw Length: 27"
Arrow Length: 28"
Arrow: Easton ST Excel Carbon 340 2" Blazer Vanes, offset (exchanged the Beman MFX Bone Collector 340)
Thanks again everyone for your help.
It sounds like typically 340 would be too stiff for this setup however...
Here's the question you need to ask yourself. Are my shots going where I want them to and are my arrows flying the way I want them to? If the answer is yes then what else matters? I had and archery shop for 7 years, went to the PSE dealer tech school and tuned a ton of bows. Here's what I learned. If it works don't fix it!
following this idea obliges me to stick with what's working.
If I have problems when I put broadheads on, I'll examine the arrow selection again. For now though it would seem that the bow is properly tuned.
Here's the question you need to ask yourself. Are my shots going where I want them to and are my arrows flying the way I want them to? If the answer is yes then what else matters? I had and archery shop for 7 years, went to the PSE dealer tech school and tuned a ton of bows. Here's what I learned. If it works don't fix it!