Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: 270Flat on January 17, 2013, 06:05:43 PM
-
For you mechanic types...
Just picked up a '83 ford ranger for running around town and for weekend projects. Takes for ever to blow warm air. Gets to normal operating temperature on the dash in a timely manner but blows cool air for way too long.
Any thought?
Btw it has a new thermostat.
-
i had an 84 ranger and the heater core was plugged up with rust, pulled it out cleaned it up and BAM :IBCOOL: warm air
-
Heater core full of gunk
Damper valve not moving
Heater valve not moving
AC not turning off (AC will run all the time for defrost)
-
Thanks guys!
Mike
-
put it on facebook not here. mike w
-
put it on facebook not here. mike w
Quit your whining, sheesh. :cryriver:
-
put it on facebook not here. mike w
Why couldn't he post it here? That is why there is a section for Equipment and gear. :dunno: :dunno: :dunno: :dunno: :dunno: :dunno: :dunno: :dunno: :dunno:
-
Dude, you know where I work and you put this out here? To the doghouse with you. :tup:
-
Okay...okay... I took my lashing...
Gonna pull out the heater core this weekend!!
Thanks for the help.
Woodchuck might see you next week if I can't get it working! :tup:
Oh and btw I don't have a fakebook account. Sorry!!
-
put it on facebook not here. mike w
Geez, dude what is your problem? :bash:
-
put it on facebook not here. mike w
Geeze...who peed in your coffee?? :bash:
-
If it's a ford question, it must be a dumb answer!! :chuckle: :chuckle: Yes, I'm a GMC guy and I'm just kidding.
-
I have also seen it where the thermostat takes forever to open thus not circulating the warm coolant to the heater core, a lot of guys install aftermarket thermostats that are set at to high of an opening pressure or they stick, may not cause an overtemp issue but will keep the warm coolant in the block longer thus not circulating the warm coolant fast enough to keep the heater core warm. I would definately look at flushing the heater core/system as well though, just something to try before pulling the core itself, a possitive pressure back flush on just the core is easier than pulling the core itself especially if it's not leaking, just be sure to disconnect both hoses going to the core as to not back flush it into the rest of the system. Good Luck.
-
My thought too. New thermostat because of problem or did problem occur after new thermostat??
I think the Turkeys ate and processed the sinker.
-
Okay...okay... I took my lashing...
Gonna pull out the heater core this weekend!!
Thanks for the help.
Woodchuck might see you next week if I can't get it working! :tup:
Oh and btw I don't have a fakebook account. Sorry!!
If you do anything first, see if there is a big difference between the temps on the heater hoses, if they are the same, the issue is not the core. :twocents:
-
I think the Turkeys ate and processed the sinker.
Huh? :dunno:
-
All the suggestions is why this forum ROCKS!!
Thanks guys!
And my other cars are Dodge and Chevy if anybody cares... :chuckle:
-
ford circles the problem
-
run at 2000 rpm with fan off , turn fan on at full heat if it blows hot for a few seconds then goes cold the core is plugged . spend thirty bucks and a half hour your good to go .