Hunting Washington Forum
Other Activities => Equestrian & Livestock => Topic started by: sirmissalot on February 05, 2013, 09:58:38 AM
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Hopefully its ok to post chicken questions here.
I currently have 3 hens and a rooster, road island reds. I wouldn't mind getting myself a couple more hens, and more than anything I would like to hatch a few for my sister and my nephew, I think it would be neat for him if they were chicks from uncle chads chickens. Anyways, I'm a newbie on the chicken owning thing. None of my hens sit on the eggs, so I'll have to get an incubator, planning on borrowing one since I know a few people that own them. Can someone fill me in on the basics? One of my buddies said you have to turn the eggs every day, and that it will take a few weeks to hatch them. I realize after they hatch I'll have to keep them separate from the other chickens, and have a heat lamp on them for a while. Anything I'm missing? I raised the chickens I have now from chicks so I think I can handle the rest, its just the hatching part I'm unfamiliar with.
Also, as the hens get older will they start sitting on the eggs or do I need a different breed or... maybe just a smarter hen to come along. None of them sit on their eggs at all they just plop them out and go on with their business.
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I don't know the answer to all of it, but the brooding instinct has been bred out of many breeds of hens because most farmers just want to collect their daily eggs. Also, it could be too cold for the chick to even survive so they don't sit on it, or the rooster may not have actually fertilized any (the hens will still continue to lay eggs regardless of a rooster).
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Well I see the rooster bangin the heck out the hens so I don't think that's it, unless he's shooting blanks! I have read that many hens won't sit on eggs, but also know people who just let their chickens hatch their own? Maybe I need to mix up my breeds a little.
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Gestation period is 31 days.(oops for ducks) The best way to hatch chicks is get a broody hen. The banty breeds are usually real good moms. Some hens will sit and some won't. Most of the crosses have had there mother instints bread out of them. But I have had hen ducks sit on my chicken eggs with success. That is funny when the are following the duck around!
By having a natural hatch the Mom does all the work and you don't have to worry. A good site is Backyard Chickens. Like HWF for chicken people.
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Correction.....21 days for chickens. In your incubator, you need to pay close attention to temp and humidity......it is a complex process to achieve with any level of success, but not impossible. You must pay close attention to the details.
2nd on backyard chickens website. Lots of good information there.
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Yep, 21 days. Give two extra before you toss the eggs. The best incubator to use is one with an automatic turner. Be sure to place the eggs point down in the turner. The eggs come off the turner, or quit manually turning them, three days before hatching (Day 18). At this time you add water to all of the channels in the turner to increase humidity. This resting period allows the chick to orient correctly w/in the shell so that it can pip its way out. Be sure your incubator is 100 degrees. You can save eggs for several days so you have more to put in the incubator. Gently place the unwashed (you can dry wipe poop chunks off) eggs someplace that is as close to 55 degrees and 75% humidity for up to a week, less time is better. Allow to warm to room temp before placing in preheated incubator.
We have silkie hens that get very broody but you can only fit a few full sized eggs under one of them.
There are really good info sites everywhere. Mississippi State extension office has a better site than the WA one.
You can also buy fertilized eggs online or ebay if you want to try to get different varieties. Don't forget though that half or more will likely be roosters so be prepared for what to do with them. ;)
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I saw that they sell the ones with automatic turners. Don't think anyone I know has one though and I'm not really wanting to spend over $100 on an incubator when the chicks are pretty cheap at the feed store! I guess we'll see what I can find. If I ever end up growing meat chickens the incubator would be money well spent, but for now I just want some more layers. Thanks everyone thats all good info. I'm trying to avoid the other chicken forums right now... don't want to get any more ideas! :chuckle:
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You honestly would do better unless interested in the hatching process, just buying chicks at Big R, or the co-op. Not trying to discourage you by any means, but the best success is buying an incubator. The basic of basics probably run about 30 bucks. (thats 10-15 chicks at the feed store). Then you have to deal with humidity, temp (electricity going out), turning the eggs and so forth. It really is a fun process and if you are serious, let me know and I can help you. Its a great kid project.
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I sent you a PM.
For others, what breeds are good brooders? I'd like to have some chicks hatched but don't want to deal with the incubator set up.
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Alot of breeds won't go broodie. THey are your best layers for just that reason. Rhode Islands happen to fall in this category. Every once in awhile you can have one that will do it. They do still have some natural instincts. Cochins love to go broodie, as mentioned Silkies, and bantams. I have several girls that go broody at the drop of a dime. They drive me nuts sometimes.
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Cochins are your best best WSU for a full sized chicken to go broodie. They are also wonderful parents.
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The Sussex I raise also go broodie fairly readily. They aren't as easy to come by as the cochins.
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Cochins are your best best WSU for a full sized chicken to go broodie. They are also wonderful parents.
Thanks for the info. I'd like to get a brood or two every year, but mine don't get broody. It would be nice to have the flock replace itself with minimal effort from me.
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You honestly would do better unless interested in the hatching process, just buying chicks at Big R, or the co-op. Not trying to discourage you by any means, but the best success is buying an incubator. The basic of basics probably run about 30 bucks. (thats 10-15 chicks at the feed store). Then you have to deal with humidity, temp (electricity going out), turning the eggs and so forth. It really is a fun process and if you are serious, let me know and I can help you. Its a great kid project.
Yeah I realize that, thats why I'm going to try to just borrow an incubator. For me even just having chickens is kind of a wash price wise, but hatching the eggs and raising the chicks would be cool for my nephew (and me a little). If it doesn't pan out I'll just trick him and place a store bought chick in an incubator or box and let him think he hatched it. Eventually I'd like to be able to just hatch my own though, definitely sounds like a broody hen is the way to go for layers.
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I miss my chickens almost as much as my mule and donkey. :(
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Biggest issue of self propagating has to do with genetics and inbreeding after a time unless you rotate or bum some roosters every once in awhile.
Barred rocks are arguably one of the better brown egg producers and you will have a pretty good percentage of possible brooders. Again, its possible to have a broody Rhode Island, but not as likely. Thats one of the reasons folks like them as most raising eggs don't want to lose production.
Sometimes its good to have a good producer (rooster and hens) and then have a couple extra Cochins or other species for brooding. You'll have an occasional cross you might want to cull.
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I understand Sirmissalot. When you get going, let me know and I can help you as much as possible and try to keep it simple for you. I have raised chickens since I was 5 or six and have had a multitude of species and birds since.
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Awesome, thanks bone thats a great offer
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Silkies are the broodiest birds that we own. I have a black silkie that's looking broody now.
We also have a Black Copper Marans hen that hatched/raised chicks for us last year.
Much prefer having the hen do the brooding. No heat lamp to fuss over and a lot less work from me.
Should look on backyardchickens.com at some pictures of eggs that have been fertilized. Next time you're frying some up, you'll know if your cock is getting the job done.
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Awesome, thanks bone thats a great offer
What he really means is that he's looking for someone to pawn his excess chickens onto. (That's what I did to my cousin a long time ago. :chuckle: ) they can reproduce faster than the flu virus! :chuckle: :chuckle:
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Silkies are the broodiest birds that we own. I have a black silkie that's looking broody now.
We also have a Black Copper Marans hen that hatched/raised chicks for us last year.
Much prefer having the hen do the brooding. No heat lamp to fuss over and a lot less work from me.
Should look on backyardchickens.com at some pictures of eggs that have been fertilized. Next time you're frying some up, you'll know if your cock is getting the job done.
That's kinda cool, I guess this means his swimmers are workin?
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Yep. :chuckle:
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Not too sure about chickens. We raise ducks and geese for the market; eggs and meat.
We have had the same problem with some of our ducks not being broody. I use to use a incubator but found it to be too much trouble.
The one duck I found that is the best for hatching eggs is our Muscovy ducks. The female is excellent at hatching eggs, without question.
We have had our female Muscovy ducks hatch chicken eggs and even a goose egg...which was interesting to see.
Of our hundred of so ducks and geese, the Muscovy duck is the best for hatching eggs.
AS with any breeding program, you have to make sure you don't get into back breeding.
The best part about ducks and geese is they smoke up real good!
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Silkies are the broodiest birds that we own. I have a black silkie that's looking broody now.
We also have a Black Copper Marans hen that hatched/raised chicks for us last year.
Much prefer having the hen do the brooding. No heat lamp to fuss over and a lot less work from me.
Should look on backyardchickens.com at some pictures of eggs that have been fertilized. Next time you're frying some up, you'll know if your cock is getting the job done.
That's kinda cool, I guess this means his swimmers are workin?
I'm missing something... looks like a normal egg to me. :dunno: Is that fertilized or unfertilized, and how do you tell?
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I'm missing something... looks like a normal egg to me. :dunno: Is that fertilized or unfertilized, and how do you tell?
I was told to look for a small red "dot" in the yolk, but Im not seeing that here....is there another way to tell?? :dunno:
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I'm missing something... looks like a normal egg to me. :dunno: Is that fertilized or unfertilized, and how do you tell?
I was told to look for a small red "dot" in the yolk, but Im not seeing that here....is there another way to tell?? :dunno:
:yeah: :dunno: Looks like a plain ol' fried egg to me! :sry:
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To check the fertility of an chicken egg, simply break an egg or egg(s) in a smooth bowl. You should see a white mark on the yolk. If you do not, use a spoon to flip the yolk over until you locate it.
If the egg is fertile, the white mark will be nearly perfectly round and in the center it will be yellow; it will resemble a donut. If it is infertile, the white mark will not be very round, and in most cases, smaller than that of the fertile mark. If the egg is not fertile, the 'white mark' is called a "blastodisc". If the egg is fertile, the 'white mark' it is called a "blastoderm", and this means that cell division,because of fertilization, occurred.
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Thanks! I figured you had to look for something. Just wasn't sure what...
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About the red blood spot in your eggs.... blood from the chicken can get into the yolk occasionally while the egg is being formed, especially if she experiences any stress during the process and this can happen when a blood vessel ruptures during the production of an egg.
I hope this answers you question about the fertility of eggs and the blood spot that maybe be present. Even with a blood spot, the egg is edible. Just spoon out the dark spot and cookem up.
Of all the years of selling duck and goose eggs I have never had a customer come back to me and complain about blood spots on their eggs.
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To check the fertility of an chicken egg, simply break an egg or egg(s) in a smooth bowl. You should see a white mark on the yolk. If you do not, use a spoon to flip the yolk over until you locate it.
If the egg is fertile, the white mark will be nearly perfectly round and in the center it will be yellow; it will resemble a donut. If it is infertile, the white mark will not be very round, and in most cases, smaller than that of the fertile mark. If the egg is not fertile, the 'white mark' is called a "blastodisc". If the egg is fertile, the 'white mark' it is called a "blastoderm", and this means that cell division,because of fertilization, occurred.
Fertilized - the white spot looks like a bullseye.
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Check out these sources for more "Broodie" hens. There a lot of chicken breeds that are better the Rhode Island Reds for a home flock.
http://farwesthatchery.com/ (http://farwesthatchery.com/)
http://www.mcmurrayhatchery.com/index.html (http://www.mcmurrayhatchery.com/index.html) Lots of really good info on lots of different breeds here! :tup:
they all ship through the Post Office too. Good luck!
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I have used Murraymcmurray (sp?) for years and have tried other hatcheries on occasion. I have had have better success at sexing chicks and also with chick survival from MMcmurray.
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Coastal Farm Supplies are getting their birds in next week. They have a seminar at the one in Burlington on Saturday and are offering discounts for people that attend. They may be doing a similar promotion at other locations.
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So I've decided to skip the egg hatching deal, and look for a broody type of breed to help me instead. I think I've narrowed it down to barred rocks, dells is supposed to get chicks in tomorrow and every wednesday now for a while.
My question is, I know I'm supposed to keep the chicks separated from the rest of the chickens for sometime, but at apparoximately what age can I let them go with the rest and not have the other chickens try and kill them? At least that would be my worry... maybe I'm wrong though.
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So I've decided to skip the egg hatching deal, and look for a broody type of breed to help me instead. I think I've narrowed it down to barred rocks, dells is supposed to get chicks in tomorrow and every wednesday now for a while.
My question is, I know I'm supposed to keep the chicks separated from the rest of the chickens for sometime, but at apparoximately what age can I let them go with the rest and not have the other chickens try and kill them? At least that would be my worry... maybe I'm wrong though.
Want to raise an extra 4 or 5 and I'll come pick them up? Payment and a six pack? I'm looking to get some broody hens also.
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Yeah I don't mind raising some for you, doing 9 or 10 can't be any more work than 4 or 5. You ok with barred rocks? I've read they are broody and great layers
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So I've decided to skip the egg hatching deal, and look for a broody type of breed to help me instead. I think I've narrowed it down to barred rocks, dells is supposed to get chicks in tomorrow and every wednesday now for a while.
My question is, I know I'm supposed to keep the chicks separated from the rest of the chickens for sometime, but at apparoximately what age can I let them go with the rest and not have the other chickens try and kill them? At least that would be my worry... maybe I'm wrong though.
Your right to be concerned. Your existing flock may try to kill the new chicks. We don't put our chicks outside until they are fully feathered and about half the size of the existing hens.(they are all banties) We then "introduce" them to the flock by letting them out in the yard together but we keep a very close eye on them to stop any attacks before they happen. We will also put them together in the pen but keep them seperated by chicken wire to keep them from being able to get at each other. If you have a hen that is mild tempered you can put her with the new chicks to bond and then she may protect them as well.
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Yeah I don't mind raising some for you, doing 9 or 10 can't be any more work than 4 or 5. You ok with barred rocks? I've read they are broody and great layers
I just want some broody chickens. The website above says they are "infrequent" as far as being broody. I don't personally know one from the other, but was thinking about going with Cochins based on what Bone said above.
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Yeah I don't mind raising some for you, doing 9 or 10 can't be any more work than 4 or 5. You ok with barred rocks? I've read they are broody and great layers
I just want some broody chickens. The website above says they are "infrequent" as far as being broody. I don't personally know one from the other, but was thinking about going with Cochins based on what Bone said above.
I would bet money on a barred rock NOT being broody. I glanced at the website and several that they have listed as broody, we have never once witnessed to be broody. The only ones we've ever had that have been reliably broody are our banty ameracauna and our silkies. Once we had a silver spangled hamburg sneak off and hatch six chicks, but that was unusual for us. We've only ever had a couple of cochins, so I can't speak about those. Sometimes birds will sit for week or two, and then seemingly give up (leaving some yucky eggs behind).
As for introducing chicks, I think we are similar to turkeyfeather. After the brooder, they go to the coop in a section where they are separated by chicken wire, but still near the grown-ups so they can start getting used to each other. Then when they are maybe 2.5 to 3 months old, we let them mingle together and see what happens. We've never had any serious problems. Sometimes the older ones will harrass the young ones a bit, but that's the pecking order being established.
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Ok thanks for the input. Now I just don't know what kind of hens to get... Banty means they are small doesn't it?
I'd really like to get some Americanas, or however you spell that but broody is my number one goal, with good egg production closely behind
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Yes, bantys are small. They can probably fit five or six regular sized eggs under them.
The conundrum you are in is that through the years, and especially since electric incubators have been developed, chickens have been breed for high egg production or good egg to feed ratios rather than being good mommas.
You might have some luck with some of the more traditional/old breeds as they often seem to have their instincts more intact. Also, when you decide to let the eggs sit, remember that a hen chicken, just like a turkey, will lay a bunch of eggs before actually sitting on them. So, just because you see four or six eggs in a nest w/o a hen on them doesn't mean she won't set when she is ready.
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The website says that Americaunas and some other breeds get broody. Perhaps we should just get 5 of a couple breeds and split them hoping we can each get a broody chicken or two?
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We have owned a mix of breeds over the years. I think my best broody hen was a Brahma. She had the feathers on her legs and feet.
Barred Rocks are in my opinion the most attractive.
The Rhode Island Reds and Sex Links are very social. They like to be close to the kids and myself (hoping we will feed them)
Maybe get a variety of breeds to increase you chances of getting a good broody hen.
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We have silkies, americaunas, and barred rocks(all banties of course) and the americaunas are by far the most broody. The barred rocks are the least, and they also seems to lay fewer eggs than the other two breeds.
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we have buff orpington hens and they sit well and hatch eggs
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Would you be interested in hatching a batch and selling them black hog? I'm in Shelton too so that would be easy
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I could do that for you but to be honest my chickens are nothing special buff orpingtons are just good broody chickens. I don't know how to sex them so they would just be strait run you would probably be better off to go to dels and buy chicks they had buffs there this morning when i was there let me know what you decide
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Hatching your own is fun if you have kids and interesting if you have a variety of hens, but it is much more efficient to buy sexed pullets. The best layers are leghorns and rhode island reds, sex-linked (gold and black) and barred rocks are up there also in egg production.
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We have had great luck with one of our hens going broody. She is a Sussex. Even some of her offspring go broody. Every once in a while she goes missing for some time and than shows back up with ten or so chicks with her. We feed the young chicks hard boiled eggs. We've had Black Australorps and Barred Rock and they don't produce chicks like our Sussex. Our birds are also totally free range and I believe that helps. Good luck!
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So I ended up getting some Americaunas, I kind of gave up on the hatching eggs thing and we will see if any of the three new hens go broody, if not then no big deal, I'll have some cool colored eggs.
A friend gave me some chicks she tried to give to her mom for easter, she couldn't tell me the breed but thought it was cornish something so I'm assuming they are cornish cross or cornish rocks. Supposedly the lady at the hardware store told her they are layers though... but pretty sure they are just going to be dinner. My question is how do I know when to butcher them? Someone once told me these kind of chickens don't live very long. So 6 months till they go on the grill? Or maybe its just when they look fat enough... I've wanted to try the meat chicken thing, having just 2 is probably a decent way to try it as I don't know how much I'm going to enjoy plucking them and all that, so we will see!
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sirmiss, if you want the cornish crosses to possibly lay, do not give them free access to food as they will eat until they basically explode their hearts because the body grows too fast. There are instructions out there. I had one that layed huge brown eggs.
For eating, just growe it until you are happy with how full of meat it feels. Some people butcher the cornish cross cockerels at 8 weeks and let the pullets grow a little longter.
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we are raising cornish cross now we have 20 of them we will do a total of 60 birds we raise them for 10 weeks and butcher carcase weights are around 6 to 9 lbs 6 months is way to long if you want to see how to butcher or need help with them let me know i also live in shelton
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Butcher at 5 weeks and you have cornish game hens.
Otherwise butcher at 7 or 8 weeks.
I would cut them early.
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Jeez they must grow quick.
Thats basically what I heard Loki is that their body outgrows their organs... I wouldn't want to mess with trying to keep food from them since the others just have a feeder and I don't want to mess with keeping them separated.
Thanks a bunch guys, black hog I'm gonna send you a PM