Post by: Fowlweather25 on April 06, 2013, 05:31:37 PM
Help! :chuckle:
Post by: Button Nubbs on April 06, 2013, 05:34:31 PM
Post by: Button Nubbs on April 06, 2013, 05:37:14 PM
Post by: Fowlweather25 on April 06, 2013, 05:42:45 PM
Post by: Fowlweather25 on April 06, 2013, 06:17:21 PM
Post by: Smossy on April 06, 2013, 06:23:04 PM
So does broadheads/fetching alignment matter?Nope. Some will argue but its just a matter of look. I actually like my heads offset with my fletching, looks more appealing to me.
Post by: Fowlweather25 on April 06, 2013, 06:40:17 PM
Post by: grousetracker on April 06, 2013, 07:11:17 PM
Post by: earlmarne on April 06, 2013, 07:14:29 PM
its really simple.just move your rest towards where the broadhead impact untill they group with your field points.or you can use your cables if you have a yoke split in em.
Post by: D-Rock425 on April 06, 2013, 07:15:22 PM
Post by: dkecoleman on April 06, 2013, 10:22:07 PM
www.eastonarchery.com/img/downloads/software/tuning_guide.pdf (http://www.eastonarchery.com/img/downloads/software/tuning_guide.pdf)
Post by: sakoshooter on April 07, 2013, 11:31:59 AM
Post by: Taco280AI on April 07, 2013, 12:01:59 PM
Post by: Smossy on April 07, 2013, 12:12:01 PM
Even after doing everything I've read, my broadheads still do not fly exactly with my field points so I simply make a small sight adjustment prior to hunting season. Could I be doing something wrong? Yes, but haven't been able to figure it out in quite a few attempts. I can get within an inch or two of each other. The broadhead test results that was shown in Bowhunter mag a couple issues ago showed the same thing and those were all shot from a Hooter Shooter.Radsav told me if this happens, Number all your arrows, and find out what ones actually fly outside the group. Usually it will be specific arrows, Then just take those and rotate your nock 120 degrees.
Quote from him "Those arrows may have a weak or stiff SPLINE the others do not have. By rotating the nock you might be able to get the spline orientation at a point where it groups with the others. Works most of the time, but not always."
Post by: hogslayer on April 08, 2013, 06:37:53 PM
Post by: sakoshooter on April 09, 2013, 09:30:54 PM
Post by: RadSav on April 10, 2013, 01:21:48 PM
I've gone thru a dozen a few times and every one shot exactly the same. Beman ICS Hunters in 340. Tried 400's too. Switched this year to Easton Axis 340's. They're shooting broadheads closer than the Bemans ever did and maybe right on based on my last few shots.
I find this quite common with carbon arrows. I think fall away rests compound the issue a little bit as well. It is my belief that the spine options with carbon are just too broad to accommodate every head, bow and archer as it was never an issue with all the aluminum spine choices. I used to set my bow for middle poundage and adjust poundage up or down until I got the spine just right to group broadheads and field points. It worked, but what a pain in the buttocks. These days I use a micro gang adjustment sight and just count clicks. I sight in for broadheads and then if I wish to shoot field points I have a click number written on the bow. I move the sight a certain number of clicks left or right and field points are sighted in. I never shoot fieldpoints during season so never a problem.
Post by: Fowlweather25 on April 10, 2013, 08:13:35 PM
Post by: sakoshooter on April 10, 2013, 09:19:23 PM
I've gone thru a dozen a few times and every one shot exactly the same. Beman ICS Hunters in 340. Tried 400's too. Switched this year to Easton Axis 340's. They're shooting broadheads closer than the Bemans ever did and maybe right on based on my last few shots.
I find this quite common with carbon arrows. I think fall away rests compound the issue a little bit as well. It is my belief that the spine options with carbon are just too broad to accommodate every head, bow and archer as it was never an issue with all the aluminum spine choices. I used to set my bow for middle poundage and adjust poundage up or down until I got the spine just right to group broadheads and field points. It worked, but what a pain in the buttocks. These days I use a micro gang adjustment sight and just count clicks. I sight in for broadheads and then if I wish to shoot field points I have a click number written on the bow. I move the sight a certain number of clicks left or right and field points are sighted in. I never shoot fieldpoints during season so never a problem.
Radsav,
That's pretty much what I've been doing the last couple years with my new setup. Micro adjustable but no clicks. I just make a small gang adjustment for broadheads realizing that my field pts will be off by a couple of inches. No problem during season.
Post by: Fullabull on April 11, 2013, 03:09:31 PM
If you do a lot of shooting the ends of your arrow shafts take a beating and loose the flat square shape. If you spin you arrows (with a broad head on ) and there is wobble it is most likely due to the shaft ends not being square. Use a squaring tool to get them as square as possible, you will see a major difference in how they spin and it will help bring those arrows together once your bow is fine tuned.
Post by: yakimarcher on April 12, 2013, 04:45:20 PM
Post by: RadSav on April 12, 2013, 06:08:09 PM
Check this out on youtubeUse some common sense while tuning this way. If you have to move the rest to a point your arrow is no where near center you've got some issues other than simple rest adjustment issues. This technique is for arrows that are perfectly spined for the bow and using a bow with perfect cam timing. These should be very minor adjustments. If it seems like a lot you probably have other issues to deal with before using this technique. When the bow and arrows are right it really is a great way to tune the bow.
Post by: Fowlweather25 on April 12, 2013, 06:41:45 PM