Post by: Smossy on June 25, 2013, 12:31:38 PM
They're slow leaks but even with that the second it hits the water u can see it creeping in - From a few old rivet holes, and a few old cracks that look like someone tried to patch one time and did a horrible job.
Anyone have experience with repairing/patching holes/cracks like this and what to use?
I picked up some waterweld from J-B Weld and I think Im going to give that a try, but just wanted to hear what everyone else says. The boat has lots of potential.
Post by: CP on June 25, 2013, 12:36:06 PM
Post by: Practical Approach on June 25, 2013, 12:36:34 PM
Post by: Smossy on June 25, 2013, 12:46:17 PM
Loose rivets need to be replaced. Cracks should be repaired by riveting an aluminum patch over the crack with a good sealant (such as 3M 5200) between the patch and the crack.Ive read that the 5200 doesnt bond to aluminum very well... Wood and fiberglass its amazing but not aluminum.. You tried it first hand?
Post by: CP on June 25, 2013, 12:48:54 PM
http://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/handbooks_manuals/aircraft/amt_airframe_handbook/media/ama_Ch04.pdf (http://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/handbooks_manuals/aircraft/amt_airframe_handbook/media/ama_Ch04.pdf)
See the section on Stop-drill cracks and on doublers.
5200 works fine on aluminum, I've used it many times.
Post by: Smossy on June 25, 2013, 01:02:45 PM
Lots of good info in here:Looks pretty complicated :dunno:
http://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/handbooks_manuals/aircraft/amt_airframe_handbook/media/ama_Ch04.pdf (http://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/handbooks_manuals/aircraft/amt_airframe_handbook/media/ama_Ch04.pdf)
See the section on Stop-drill cracks and on doublers.
5200 works fine on aluminum, I've used it many times.
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on June 25, 2013, 01:53:34 PM
Post by: DoubleJ on June 25, 2013, 01:57:01 PM
Post by: jackmaster on June 25, 2013, 02:06:11 PM
Post by: Smossy on June 25, 2013, 02:08:38 PM
do you know a welder? you can rent an aliminum welder, that would probably be the best wayNope. I did some electric wire feed welding back in the day when I could find a job. I imagine its completely different though.
Post by: KFhunter on June 25, 2013, 02:23:42 PM
you need to install new solid aluminum rivets as stated. You got good advice from CP.
The only thing CP didn't catch was to goop up the new rivets before you install them, probably with that same 3m stuff he mentioned.
If you lived close I'd help you buck in new rivets, it's a two person job and best left to someone who knows how to run a rivet gun.
Post by: Smossy on June 25, 2013, 02:29:16 PM
you can't weld it.Yeah and I have no idea what a rivet gun looks like nor how to use one. Where you located KF?
you need to install new rivets as stated. You got good advice from CP.
The only thing CP didn't catch was to goop up the new rivets before you install them, probably with that same 3m stuff he mentioned.
If you lived close I'd help you buck in new rivets, it's a two person job and best left to someone who knows how to run a rivet gun.
This is basicaly now a project boat and Id like to get it in good working order. Repair holes, strip and repaint, place carpeted runner boards on the floors. Maybe even install a small live well or battery box.
Post by: KFhunter on June 25, 2013, 02:31:22 PM
Post by: Smossy on June 25, 2013, 02:33:54 PM
Post by: KFhunter on June 25, 2013, 02:34:28 PM
Post by: Smossy on June 25, 2013, 02:34:38 PM
Post by: Hilltop123 on June 25, 2013, 02:38:24 PM
Post by: Smossy on June 25, 2013, 02:40:55 PM
Post by: KFhunter on June 25, 2013, 02:41:33 PM
If you decide to rivet it yourself just pratice on scrap metals, just use low air pressure and a lot of trigger control on the rivet gun or you'll walk that sucker and leave a bunch of pucker smiles or flatten the rivet too much.
It isn't rocket science. Also get you a cleco kit, almost a must have for projects like this.
http://compare.ebay.com/like/390611977218?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar (http://compare.ebay.com/like/390611977218?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar)
Post by: Hilltop123 on June 25, 2013, 02:42:15 PM
Post by: Smossy on June 25, 2013, 02:42:25 PM
Leaky rivets, been there done that...........the redneck way is to drill out the old rivets and replace with nut and bolt, with a nice rubber gasket. She ain't purdy, but she don't leak........just a helpful tip from the hillbilly section :IBCOOL:Haha. Great Idea but I want it to look good also so it will hold some resale value down the road just incase. Aluminum boats seem to be real saught after these days from what I see.
Post by: Smossy on June 25, 2013, 02:43:32 PM
That's a nice little project there :tup:What exactly is that celco kit, like a small scale hand rivet?
If you decide to rivet it yourself just pratice on scrap metals, just use low air pressure and a lot of trigger control on the rivet gun or you'll walk that sucker and leave a bunch of pucker smiles or flatten the rivet too much.
It isn't rocket science. Also get you a cleco kit, almost a must have for projects like this.
http://compare.ebay.com/like/390611977218?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar (http://compare.ebay.com/like/390611977218?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar)
Post by: Smossy on June 25, 2013, 02:44:10 PM
If they ain't broke, why fix them..... :twocents:True. Just means more work.
Post by: KFhunter on June 25, 2013, 02:44:57 PM
Next question, should I just remove/uninstall all current rivet's in the boat, then redo them all? Or just repair what ones "I think" need fixing.
oh hell no :yike:
just see if they'll spin or wiggle, you'll see wear marks where the head is loose and working. drill the heads with a drill bit and pop out the rivet then re-drill the hole and replace with a slightly larger rivet. It'll be easier to drill if you have a punch and make a divit in the top of the rivet head so your bit don't walk around.
Post by: Smossy on June 25, 2013, 02:48:20 PM
Cool, sounds do-able. Can you rent those rivet guns at like homedepot or anything? We have an air compressor so thats covered.Next question, should I just remove/uninstall all current rivet's in the boat, then redo them all? Or just repair what ones "I think" need fixing.
oh hell no :yike:
just see if they'll spin or wiggle, you'll see wear marks where the head is loose and working. drill the heads with a drill bit and pop out the rivet then re-drill the hole and replace with a slightly larger rivet. It'll be easier to drill if you have a punch and make a divit in the top of the rivet head so your bit don't walk around.
What kind of psi is considered low on those things? "The rivet guns"
Post by: KFhunter on June 25, 2013, 02:49:56 PM
how to remvoe a rivet
Solid rivet removal.mpg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gr24Nvs7fd0#)
Post by: Hilltop123 on June 25, 2013, 02:52:03 PM
ROTFLMAO............"oh hell no"Next question, should I just remove/uninstall all current rivet's in the boat, then redo them all? Or just repair what ones "I think" need fixing.
oh hell no :yike:
just see if they'll spin or wiggle, you'll see wear marks where the head is loose and working. drill the heads with a drill bit and pop out the rivet then re-drill the hole and replace with a slightly larger rivet. It'll be easier to drill if you have a punch and make a divit in the top of the rivet head so your bit don't walk around.
You may also see a black residue around loose rivets...my experience with riveted boats, says, overpowering the boat with an outboard and beating it to death, is usually what loosens rivets. does it look like someone had an outboard on it?
Post by: Smossy on June 25, 2013, 02:55:18 PM
Yeah, it does actually. The stern "I think" is all beat up and the top of the aluminum on the boarder is all torn like there was alot of weight on it. Going to need repaired also but It doesnt effect the way it floats. I only plan on using a 30lb thrust trolling motor.ROTFLMAO............"oh hell no"Next question, should I just remove/uninstall all current rivet's in the boat, then redo them all? Or just repair what ones "I think" need fixing.
oh hell no :yike:
just see if they'll spin or wiggle, you'll see wear marks where the head is loose and working. drill the heads with a drill bit and pop out the rivet then re-drill the hole and replace with a slightly larger rivet. It'll be easier to drill if you have a punch and make a divit in the top of the rivet head so your bit don't walk around.
You may also see a black residue around loose rivets...my experience with riveted boats, says, overpowering the boat with an outboard and beating it to death, is usually what loosens rivets. does it look like someone had an outboard on it?
Post by: Hilltop123 on June 25, 2013, 02:57:59 PM
Post by: robodad on June 25, 2013, 03:06:35 PM
Post by: Smossy on June 25, 2013, 03:13:32 PM
Gluvit or Rhino Lining should fix it up and also any others that want to come loose.Spendy. Dont have that kind of money lol. Poor folks here. Rhino line is pure luxory. :chuckle:
Post by: Becky on June 25, 2013, 03:15:26 PM
She ain't bad for a super cheap craigslist pickup. I was surprised we made it all around the lake in our test run without sinking haha.
Post by: Hilltop123 on June 25, 2013, 03:15:39 PM
Gluvit or Rhino Lining should fix it up and also any others that want to come loose.Spendy. Dont have that kind of money lol. Poor folks here. Rhino line is pure luxory. :chuckle:
Plus the added weight to the boat.......
Post by: Goldeneye on June 25, 2013, 03:15:50 PM
Flex Seal™ Combo | Top TV Stuff (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOyy6fYvtaQ#)
Post by: Hilltop123 on June 25, 2013, 03:18:24 PM
Post by: Heredoggydoggy on June 25, 2013, 08:12:51 PM
Post by: Fletch on June 26, 2013, 02:32:01 PM
Post by: JackOfAllTrades on June 26, 2013, 03:06:52 PM
-Steve
Post by: xd2005 on June 26, 2013, 03:10:30 PM
Post by: Smossy on June 26, 2013, 03:44:46 PM
Post by: Mudman on June 26, 2013, 03:55:15 PM
Post by: Becky on June 26, 2013, 04:05:43 PM
Harbor freight sells cheap rivet tools. I would buy some aerosol rubber in a can and spray it. A little water isn't big deal. :chuckle: I like the hillbilly way as well.
The hillbilly way is the way to be :tup: lol. It'll most likely be what we do... It's not leaking terribly fast or anything but enough to get some water in the boat.
Post by: h20hunter on June 26, 2013, 04:08:13 PM
Post by: Goldeneye on June 26, 2013, 04:10:12 PM
Post by: Smossy on June 26, 2013, 05:43:45 PM
Bring it to the BBQ, let the "experts" fix it for you after they drink up enough knowledge and skill! :tup:LOL It would wind up cutt in half and everyone would have a dumb look in they're face like ok, now wheres the hole?
Post by: xd2005 on June 26, 2013, 05:55:33 PM
Bring it to the BBQ, let the "experts" fix it for you after they drink up enough knowledge and skill! :tup:LOL It would wind up cutt in half and everyone would have a dumb look in they're face like ok, now wheres the hole?
Yeah, but then it could be used for putt putt golf! (My dad had an old Chris craft he was storing at my aunt and uncles, waiting for him to restore. They had a tavern and when they added putt putt golf to it, they included the boat) :yike:
Post by: Ridgeratt on June 26, 2013, 06:30:21 PM
Harbor freight sells cheap rivet tools. I would buy some aerosol rubber in a can and spray it. A little water isn't big deal. :chuckle: I like the hillbilly way as well.
You just might want to look at the rivet's used in a boat! Most are peened rivets for a reason. :dunno:
But I guess anything is worth a try once.
Post by: KFhunter on June 26, 2013, 06:44:51 PM
Harbor freight sells cheap rivet tools. I would buy some aerosol rubber in a can and spray it. A little water isn't big deal. :chuckle: I like the hillbilly way as well.
You just might want to look at the rivet's used in a boat! Most are peened rivets for a reason. :dunno:
But I guess anything is worth a try once.
just be more crap to scrape off and prep before its fixed properly
Post by: TONTO on June 26, 2013, 06:56:04 PM
Post by: bassquatch on July 16, 2013, 09:50:31 PM
http://youtu.be/VauP9uoPsLE (http://youtu.be/VauP9uoPsLE)
Post by: Alchase on July 17, 2013, 01:20:47 PM
I would highly suggest some 'Marine Tex'. http://www.marinetex.com (http://www.marinetex.com) Just coat all the joints/rivets of your boat.
-Steve
Jackofalltrades, is that 'Marine Tex' clear?
I have a couple rivets I would like to seal up as well, I just do not want to have to paint the whole boat to do it?
Oh, and are sealers applied on the inside of the boat or the outside?
Post by: jay.sharkbait on July 17, 2013, 01:34:48 PM
If you need any help i'm in the area and would be glad to assist.
Post by: Alchase on July 17, 2013, 01:52:35 PM
I would just re-buck the offending rivets. It's actually pretty easy and doesn't take very long.That is an awesome offer, I really appreciate it!
If you need any help i'm in the area and would be glad to assist.
Bucking would actually require me to find the offending rivet, LOL
I was trying to take the lazy way out.
Mine hardly leaks but would still like to seal it up well.
Maybe bucking the rivets is the smart thing to do, LOL
Post by: wildweeds on July 23, 2013, 04:33:59 PM
My old man bought a 14 foot alaskan smoker craft that got dumped off the trailer going down the road for 100 bucks.it was like new,had only been used once.I smeared sikaflex polyurethane caulking over the area where the transom met the bottom,cleaned the area real good with laquer thinner after roughing it up by hand with some 120 grit sand paper.It's been 14 years and the boat still doesn't leak.Sika flex caulking is good stuff.You can also clean/etch the aluminum with a water/muratic acid mixture,apply let foam and rinse off if you go the caulking route.
WEAR EARPLUGS if you buck rivet!And regulate your air so it don't get out of control and knock a hole in the bottom of the boat.I'd use the hard alloy rivets too,We used to use a few soft ones on the trailers but those were the only ones that would fail so we gave up on them and went to using nothing but hard ones.
Post by: Smossy on July 23, 2013, 04:37:23 PM
I used to build aluminum horse trailers and custom boats,we welded the frames and buck riveted the skin on the trailers,we also buck riveted some structural components on the sides of the jet boats so as not to wrinkle the sides.What do you think it would cost to have someone who knows what they're doing fix it up for me? It doesnt need to be pretty, Its pretty beat up but its solid, just needs some TLC.
My old man bought a 14 foot alaskan smoker craft that got dumped off the trailer going down the road for 100 bucks.it was like new,had only been used once.I smeared sikaflex polyurethane caulking over the area where the transom met the bottom,cleaned the area real good with laquer thinner after roughing it up by hand with some 120 grit sand paper.It's been 14 years and the boat still doesn't leak.Sika flex caulking is good stuff.You can also clean/etch the aluminum with a water/muratic acid mixture,apply let foam and rinse off if you go the caulking route.
WEAR EARPLUGS if you buck rivet!And regulate your air so it don't get out of control and knock a hole in the bottom of the boat.I'd use the hard alloy rivets too,We used to use a few soft ones on the trailers but those were the only ones that would fail so we gave up on them and went to using nothing but hard ones.
Something me and my girl want to use to get fishing when we want to get out on the water.
Post by: wildweeds on July 23, 2013, 05:42:16 PM
Many years ago my buddy had a hewescraft river runner,we made the 5 hour drive to fish the cowlitz for steelhead,at some point the straps came loose and the bunks split the bottom of the boat,we launched in the dark,as the boat sat in the water waiting for light it filled up the back,We did an emergency repair at the launch with the MR heater to dry it,a pop can for a patch and JB weld.We fished the whole weekend without any events.Waiting for the cure time killed us the first day though,didn't get fishing till 9 oclock.
I used to build aluminum horse trailers and custom boats,we welded the frames and buck riveted the skin on the trailers,we also buck riveted some structural components on the sides of the jet boats so as not to wrinkle the sides.What do you think it would cost to have someone who knows what they're doing fix it up for me? It doesnt need to be pretty, Its pretty beat up but its solid, just needs some TLC.
My old man bought a 14 foot alaskan smoker craft that got dumped off the trailer going down the road for 100 bucks.it was like new,had only been used once.I smeared sikaflex polyurethane caulking over the area where the transom met the bottom,cleaned the area real good with laquer thinner after roughing it up by hand with some 120 grit sand paper.It's been 14 years and the boat still doesn't leak.Sika flex caulking is good stuff.You can also clean/etch the aluminum with a water/muratic acid mixture,apply let foam and rinse off if you go the caulking route.
WEAR EARPLUGS if you buck rivet!And regulate your air so it don't get out of control and knock a hole in the bottom of the boat.I'd use the hard alloy rivets too,We used to use a few soft ones on the trailers but those were the only ones that would fail so we gave up on them and went to using nothing but hard ones.
Something me and my girl want to use to get fishing when we want to get out on the water.
Post by: Smossy on July 23, 2013, 05:46:41 PM
All depends really,if you take it to a shop you'll get the razzoo on shop time,but they got overhead which is where the razoo comes from,if it's a boeing guy who can't get enough riveting in during the day and he's bored you may be looking at a fishing trip with some beer.It's really not to tough of a project,I suggest throwing the plug in it and filling with enough water to get the leaks to show themselves mark around them with a sharpie,Drain flip over,make a map of what your going to fix,prep area around leakers,etch,caulk and call it macaroni.OR drill out offending leakers and buck some new rivets in.If you go to buck new ones in,drill one out and replace one at a time if you have a row,the other thing I would do is re buck a few rivets on each side of the replacement to assure snugness of the whole works.I see, all the leaks on the boat are on rivets, theyre loose and spin, There's one gash in the back that looks like someone tried to re-weld but it leaks also. Then theres a small crack under the tube the plug goes into that leaks. Thats about it.
Many years ago my buddy had a hewescraft river runner,we made the 5 hour drive to fish the cowlitz for steelhead,at some point the straps came loose and the bunks split the bottom of the boat,we launched in the dark,as the boat sat in the water waiting for light it filled up the back,We did an emergency repair at the launch with the MR heater to dry it,a pop can for a patch and JB weld.We fished the whole weekend without any events.Waiting for the cure time killed us the first day though,didn't get fishing till 9 oclock.I used to build aluminum horse trailers and custom boats,we welded the frames and buck riveted the skin on the trailers,we also buck riveted some structural components on the sides of the jet boats so as not to wrinkle the sides.What do you think it would cost to have someone who knows what they're doing fix it up for me? It doesnt need to be pretty, Its pretty beat up but its solid, just needs some TLC.
My old man bought a 14 foot alaskan smoker craft that got dumped off the trailer going down the road for 100 bucks.it was like new,had only been used once.I smeared sikaflex polyurethane caulking over the area where the transom met the bottom,cleaned the area real good with laquer thinner after roughing it up by hand with some 120 grit sand paper.It's been 14 years and the boat still doesn't leak.Sika flex caulking is good stuff.You can also clean/etch the aluminum with a water/muratic acid mixture,apply let foam and rinse off if you go the caulking route.
WEAR EARPLUGS if you buck rivet!And regulate your air so it don't get out of control and knock a hole in the bottom of the boat.I'd use the hard alloy rivets too,We used to use a few soft ones on the trailers but those were the only ones that would fail so we gave up on them and went to using nothing but hard ones.
Something me and my girl want to use to get fishing when we want to get out on the water.
Post by: wildweeds on July 23, 2013, 05:54:26 PM
All depends really,if you take it to a shop you'll get the razzoo on shop time,but they got overhead which is where the razoo comes from,if it's a boeing guy who can't get enough riveting in during the day and he's bored you may be looking at a fishing trip with some beer.It's really not to tough of a project,I suggest throwing the plug in it and filling with enough water to get the leaks to show themselves mark around them with a sharpie,Drain flip over,make a map of what your going to fix,prep area around leakers,etch,caulk and call it macaroni.OR drill out offending leakers and buck some new rivets in.If you go to buck new ones in,drill one out and replace one at a time if you have a row,the other thing I would do is re buck a few rivets on each side of the replacement to assure snugness of the whole works.I see, all the leaks on the boat are on rivets, theyre loose and spin, There's one gash in the back that looks like someone tried to re-weld but it leaks also. Then theres a small crack under the tube the plug goes into that leaks. Thats about it.
Many years ago my buddy had a hewescraft river runner,we made the 5 hour drive to fish the cowlitz for steelhead,at some point the straps came loose and the bunks split the bottom of the boat,we launched in the dark,as the boat sat in the water waiting for light it filled up the back,We did an emergency repair at the launch with the MR heater to dry it,a pop can for a patch and JB weld.We fished the whole weekend without any events.Waiting for the cure time killed us the first day though,didn't get fishing till 9 oclock.I used to build aluminum horse trailers and custom boats,we welded the frames and buck riveted the skin on the trailers,we also buck riveted some structural components on the sides of the jet boats so as not to wrinkle the sides.What do you think it would cost to have someone who knows what they're doing fix it up for me? It doesnt need to be pretty, Its pretty beat up but its solid, just needs some TLC.
My old man bought a 14 foot alaskan smoker craft that got dumped off the trailer going down the road for 100 bucks.it was like new,had only been used once.I smeared sikaflex polyurethane caulking over the area where the transom met the bottom,cleaned the area real good with laquer thinner after roughing it up by hand with some 120 grit sand paper.It's been 14 years and the boat still doesn't leak.Sika flex caulking is good stuff.You can also clean/etch the aluminum with a water/muratic acid mixture,apply let foam and rinse off if you go the caulking route.
WEAR EARPLUGS if you buck rivet!And regulate your air so it don't get out of control and knock a hole in the bottom of the boat.I'd use the hard alloy rivets too,We used to use a few soft ones on the trailers but those were the only ones that would fail so we gave up on them and went to using nothing but hard ones.
Something me and my girl want to use to get fishing when we want to get out on the water.
Post by: Smossy on July 23, 2013, 05:56:16 PM
Get mrs smossy on the head side of the rivet with a reall big hammer,hold it tight,you get on the inside and hit the rivet with another hammer,it'll tighten up.Can you hit what your aiming at? Caulk the rest with the sikaflex and the cleaning I've described,let the caulk cure a couple days and your golden,smear it on inside and out,thin layer for more adhesion area.So you can kinda re-set them just with some pressure? and where can u pick up that sikaflex stuff?All depends really,if you take it to a shop you'll get the razzoo on shop time,but they got overhead which is where the razoo comes from,if it's a boeing guy who can't get enough riveting in during the day and he's bored you may be looking at a fishing trip with some beer.It's really not to tough of a project,I suggest throwing the plug in it and filling with enough water to get the leaks to show themselves mark around them with a sharpie,Drain flip over,make a map of what your going to fix,prep area around leakers,etch,caulk and call it macaroni.OR drill out offending leakers and buck some new rivets in.If you go to buck new ones in,drill one out and replace one at a time if you have a row,the other thing I would do is re buck a few rivets on each side of the replacement to assure snugness of the whole works.I see, all the leaks on the boat are on rivets, theyre loose and spin, There's one gash in the back that looks like someone tried to re-weld but it leaks also. Then theres a small crack under the tube the plug goes into that leaks. Thats about it.
Many years ago my buddy had a hewescraft river runner,we made the 5 hour drive to fish the cowlitz for steelhead,at some point the straps came loose and the bunks split the bottom of the boat,we launched in the dark,as the boat sat in the water waiting for light it filled up the back,We did an emergency repair at the launch with the MR heater to dry it,a pop can for a patch and JB weld.We fished the whole weekend without any events.Waiting for the cure time killed us the first day though,didn't get fishing till 9 oclock.I used to build aluminum horse trailers and custom boats,we welded the frames and buck riveted the skin on the trailers,we also buck riveted some structural components on the sides of the jet boats so as not to wrinkle the sides.What do you think it would cost to have someone who knows what they're doing fix it up for me? It doesnt need to be pretty, Its pretty beat up but its solid, just needs some TLC.
My old man bought a 14 foot alaskan smoker craft that got dumped off the trailer going down the road for 100 bucks.it was like new,had only been used once.I smeared sikaflex polyurethane caulking over the area where the transom met the bottom,cleaned the area real good with laquer thinner after roughing it up by hand with some 120 grit sand paper.It's been 14 years and the boat still doesn't leak.Sika flex caulking is good stuff.You can also clean/etch the aluminum with a water/muratic acid mixture,apply let foam and rinse off if you go the caulking route.
WEAR EARPLUGS if you buck rivet!And regulate your air so it don't get out of control and knock a hole in the bottom of the boat.I'd use the hard alloy rivets too,We used to use a few soft ones on the trailers but those were the only ones that would fail so we gave up on them and went to using nothing but hard ones.
Something me and my girl want to use to get fishing when we want to get out on the water.
Post by: wildweeds on July 23, 2013, 06:04:22 PM
Post by: Old Man Yager on July 23, 2013, 06:10:48 PM
Here's a few pictures so you have an idea of what I'm talking about, That's it sitting next to our 17 foot canoe.Bad ass little boat Smossy, you could gig some frogs with that set up.
Post by: Smossy on July 23, 2013, 06:13:26 PM
Id plink some with the bow If I could find a good pop of large frogs, and get the boat fixed lol. Standing up is cake in a flat bottom.Here's a few pictures so you have an idea of what I'm talking about, That's it sitting next to our 17 foot canoe.Bad ass little boat Smossy, you could gig some frogs with that set up.
Post by: Old Man Yager on July 23, 2013, 06:19:01 PM
Post by: Smossy on July 23, 2013, 06:25:35 PM
Harts lake, Kapowsin, and Ohop have some frogs, and Clear lake bald hills used to be good too.You work at sportsmans wh by any chance?
Post by: THE GUN 67 on July 23, 2013, 06:42:48 PM
Ok who FINALLY got to take our 14 foot john boat out yesterday to see if it floats, It indeed does, but it has a few leaks.. JB weld works just fine did mine still perfect after 7 yrs
They're slow leaks but even with that the second it hits the water u can see it creeping in - From a few old rivet holes, and a few old cracks that look like someone tried to patch one time and did a horrible job.
Anyone have experience with repairing/patching holes/cracks like this and what to use?
I picked up some waterweld from J-B Weld and I think Im going to give that a try, but just wanted to hear what everyone else says. The boat has lots of potential.
Post by: Smossy on July 23, 2013, 06:56:19 PM
Ill try to tighten the rivets and do some JB weld just because I have a brand new pack of the waterweld style JB weld in the truck.Ok who FINALLY got to take our 14 foot john boat out yesterday to see if it floats, It indeed does, but it has a few leaks.. JB weld works just fine did mine still perfect after 7 yrs
They're slow leaks but even with that the second it hits the water u can see it creeping in - From a few old rivet holes, and a few old cracks that look like someone tried to patch one time and did a horrible job.
Anyone have experience with repairing/patching holes/cracks like this and what to use?
I picked up some waterweld from J-B Weld and I think Im going to give that a try, but just wanted to hear what everyone else says. The boat has lots of potential.
Post by: Alchase on July 24, 2013, 12:20:54 PM
Harts lake, Kapowsin, and Ohop have some frogs, and Clear lake bald hills used to be good too.
Temporary thread jack
Watch out for vehicle break ins at Kapowsin!
Thieves have been active at the boat ramp, you can tell by all the glass in the parking lot.
Post by: Smossy on July 26, 2013, 11:34:08 PM
Going to clean the area thoroughly with some acetone and a light sanding right after I chamfer every hole..
I was thinking maybe even taking an old truck inner-tube, and cutting it into small patches and placing them on the bottom of the boat to where the bolt screws through and the bolt head sits flat on the rubber, to the aluminum. With a sealant still of course.
Also even placing Acorn nuts over the nylon nuts to help prevent from snags and such.
Going to be building a small wood platform on the front also with storage underneath, and in the back for battery storage.
What is everyone's take on this? I think It would help add some strength to the frame.
Post by: Alchase on July 29, 2013, 10:31:39 AM
Every time I start a new project I tell myself, "do not forget the camera and document it" then I get busy, forget the camera and documenting, LOL
Post by: Dirty Mike on August 14, 2013, 07:39:47 AM
Post by: Smossy on May 11, 2014, 05:27:10 PM
Drilled out all the old leaky rivets...
Replaced them with small #10 self sealing washers (Rubber on one side and metal on the other)
Simple nut and bolts size #10 also I believe, Covered in Marine G-5200 Sealant, Waited a week and took her out today for about an hour, absolutely no problems.
Found my last tiny leak is coming from behind the transom and down by the drain plug area, Looking from underneath theres a crack on it but It looks like something I can fix with more 5200.
Ill post photos at another time.
Post by: Becky on May 11, 2014, 05:31:23 PM
Ill post photos at another time.I'll just leave these two right here..
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi60.tinypic.com%2F30hr59k.jpg&hash=10f1da1c220738aa55cdfecd136f19c07fd6f088)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi59.tinypic.com%2F2py8hdy.jpg&hash=ddb8cc19d918188fb1d50f937fc4cd1dd2f1dc57)
Post by: JJB11B on May 11, 2014, 06:07:00 PM
Post by: Mudman on May 13, 2014, 05:31:20 PM
Post by: Smossy on May 14, 2014, 02:40:18 PM
Sweet. Did you catch any catfish in there?Didnt even fish, We caught tons of catfish at a different lake the following night though, Nothing over 2lbs but good and fat.
Post by: h20hunter on May 14, 2014, 02:43:48 PM
Sweet. Did you catch any catfish in there?Didnt even fish, We caught tons of catfish at a different lake the following night though, Nothing over 2lbs but good and fat.
Pics or it didn't happen.
Post by: Becky on May 14, 2014, 05:17:47 PM
Sweet. Did you catch any catfish in there?Didnt even fish, We caught tons of catfish at a different lake the following night though, Nothing over 2lbs but good and fat.
Pics or it didn't happen.
This count? lol.. couple of the ones we kept.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi57.tinypic.com%2F14bnnyb.jpg&hash=6855e84a322feee3563e0637816414c9c1616071) (https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi57.tinypic.com%2F2u5z0cp.jpg&hash=2364d1d2d4a4f9c75a2fd5902711e6375b57b784)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi61.tinypic.com%2F2z3w21c.jpg&hash=22887e5ac69a964a303d8ff82679623888861085)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi59.tinypic.com%2Fx54aw2.jpg&hash=af1146d871479b198126f65fabd9518fb5186fb1) (https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi57.tinypic.com%2F330g3z8.jpg&hash=8ed61ef1b02c69f48a5d56f4977eca466399d923)
Post by: h20hunter on May 14, 2014, 05:20:43 PM
Post by: Smossy on May 15, 2014, 05:35:25 PM