Post by: halfpipe88 on August 14, 2013, 01:02:02 PM
Post by: jason stevens on August 14, 2013, 01:09:45 PM
Post by: turkeyfeather on August 14, 2013, 01:10:15 PM
Post by: buckfvr on August 14, 2013, 01:10:40 PM
Post by: halfpipe88 on August 14, 2013, 01:21:50 PM
How do you test center-shot? I was told to shoot a group at 20 yards, then back up to 40 yards and shoot at the same point with the same pin and if it's in line the arrows will be lined up. Sound right?
Post by: et1702 on August 14, 2013, 01:28:21 PM
Sounds like your rest is adjusted a little to far to the right originally and arrows are fish-tailing as they come off bow. Need to adjust rest.
Other concerns might be that you are gripping bow too tight, or that you are canting bow to one side. Bow needs to be straight up and down (i.e., perpendicular w/the ground). If you let it lean a little to the side, you will have the issue you are describing.
ET
Post by: et1702 on August 14, 2013, 01:31:35 PM
Hand torque? With my front hand? I'm usually pretty cautious about not gripping the bow. My arrows are brand new. I just replaced them to see if it would help but it didn't.
How do you test center-shot? I was told to shoot a group at 20 yards, then back up to 40 yards and shoot at the same point with the same pin and if it's in line the arrows will be lined up. Sound right?
Thats one way to test center shot. But, if you did this and they were in line at 40yrds, they would also be in line at 60 yards. So, I'm still guessing that the rest needs adjustment or you are canting the bow to one side.
Post by: wrongway on August 14, 2013, 01:50:06 PM
Post by: buckfvr on August 14, 2013, 01:51:30 PM
I use a laser tool mounted in the sight holes and nock up an arrow, and turn the laser from the center of the string at the nock, to the center of the shaft just past the rest. This also is just a starting point, true tune could go slightly either way.
Post by: mountainman on August 14, 2013, 02:16:24 PM
Post by: mountainman on August 14, 2013, 02:17:03 PM
Post by: justyhntr on August 14, 2013, 02:20:18 PM
Post by: sirfunkeybut on August 14, 2013, 02:50:10 PM
Post by: buckfvr on August 14, 2013, 02:55:02 PM
Post by: RadSav on August 14, 2013, 03:24:28 PM
I had a range where all the nearby trees were slightly leaning. I always seemed to shoot left at longer distances. Moved my target to where I stand and started shooting from where the target used to be. Then all my arrows started hitting to the right :chuckle:
One of the reasons I stopped shooting Hoyt years ago. For some reason I have one heck of a time shooting the Hoyt grip without using the bubble. The side plates helped, but not enough. Felt like I always had to be leaning to my right to get things good and level. Just my hand and their grip do not like one another and I tend to cant the bow. Finally had Loesch make me a grip and all the troubles disappeared.
Post by: buckfvr on August 14, 2013, 03:41:20 PM
Post by: halfpipe88 on August 15, 2013, 01:17:04 PM
Post by: sirfunkeybut on August 15, 2013, 02:59:44 PM
Post by: JLS on August 15, 2013, 03:07:00 PM
Bareshaft tuning is another good way to tell what your arrow is doing as it comes off of the bow.
Post by: jechicdr on August 15, 2013, 11:17:09 PM
Post by: Todd_ID on August 15, 2013, 11:41:46 PM
The French tuning takes into account the right/left difference between close and far shot. The impact point of the arrow at close distance is determined more by the position of the rest relative to center shot (the arrow after it leaves the bow will then try to correct its flight). The impact point at far distances is determined by where the bow wants to shoot the arrow (a function of the bow and the arrow stiffness, weight, etc). To French tune, you shoot at a vertical line on a target 9 feet away. If arrow hits left, move pin(s) to left until impact point is on line. Then shoot at 10 or more yards at vertical line. If grouping is to left of line, then move rest to right and vice versa. You are essentially moving the impact point of the closer shot by moving the rest in the direction that the far shot is hitting. Then repeat process over and over until distant shots and close shots are hitting the line.
This "modified" french tuning works well. You can fix a lot of tuning problems with sticking to this one program.
A laser level works very well for creating the vertical line you are shooting at; getting close to the line doesn't count: you've got to hit it exactly, otherwise you'll end up with a headache in tuning later down the road.
Move the sight frame only at 10' until you hit the line and the rest horizontally only at 10 yards until you hit the line. Go back to 10' and move the sight frame only and back to 10 yards and move the rest only. A few times back and forth, and the rest and sight frame are set. All that's left to do is broadhead tuning at 40 yards to get the nock height/rest elevation set to where broadheads and field points hit the same, and then set the pin gaps for the yardages.
With this system you can tune your bow in an hour with about 50 shots, and the end result is excellent broadhead flight and, more importantly, confidence in your shooting and the ability to re-tune anytime you want/need.
Post by: halfpipe88 on August 22, 2013, 07:15:14 AM
Post by: bowtech experience on November 09, 2013, 04:47:13 AM
Post by: bankwalker on November 23, 2013, 09:53:18 AM
The French tuning takes into account the right/left difference between close and far shot. The impact point of the arrow at close distance is determined more by the position of the rest relative to center shot (the arrow after it leaves the bow will then try to correct its flight). The impact point at far distances is determined by where the bow wants to shoot the arrow (a function of the bow and the arrow stiffness, weight, etc). To French tune, you shoot at a vertical line on a target 9 feet away. If arrow hits left, move pin(s) to left until impact point is on line. Then shoot at 10 or more yards at vertical line. If grouping is to left of line, then move rest to right and vice versa. You are essentially moving the impact point of the closer shot by moving the rest in the direction that the far shot is hitting. Then repeat process over and over until distant shots and close shots are hitting the line.
This "modified" french tuning works well. You can fix a lot of tuning problems with sticking to this one program.
A laser level works very well for creating the vertical line you are shooting at; getting close to the line doesn't count: you've got to hit it exactly, otherwise you'll end up with a headache in tuning later down the road.
Move the sight frame only at 10' until you hit the line and the rest horizontally only at 10 yards until you hit the line. Go back to 10' and move the sight frame only and back to 10 yards and move the rest only. A few times back and forth, and the rest and sight frame are set. All that's left to do is broadhead tuning at 40 yards to get the nock height/rest elevation set to where broadheads and field points hit the same, and then set the pin gaps for the yardages.
With this system you can tune your bow in an hour with about 50 shots, and the end result is excellent broadhead flight and, more importantly, confidence in your shooting and the ability to re-tune anytime you want/need.
Thanks for that description!!! Just went out and ran through this process. Now I'm shooting the best I've ever shot. Thanks!
Post by: GregE on November 23, 2013, 10:04:57 AM