Post by: Rob on August 15, 2013, 09:42:32 AM
We are in the process of learning the basics of roping up, etc. Practicing once a week and continuing our conditioning hikes
We have done Mt St Helens 4-5 times in the past couple years including a late Spring Climb and just recently got up Adams.
Our goal in Mt Rainer next year and we are thinking Baker is our next stepping stone.
Post by: 6x6in6 on August 15, 2013, 09:45:33 AM
Post by: Knocker of rocks on August 15, 2013, 09:49:48 AM
Rainier is potentially less complicated because you have RMI shoveling their trench to the top
Post by: boneaddict on August 15, 2013, 09:57:25 AM
Post by: JLS on August 15, 2013, 10:05:25 AM
Post by: Rob on August 15, 2013, 10:07:39 AM
Much different than Mount St Helens. Both sides have major glaciers to cross, with crevasse falls always a potential. When I climbed it in 1977, we had a snow bridge collapse and a member took a 40' fall. It was quite the project to get him out.
Rainier is potentially less complicated because you have RMI shoveling their trench to the top
what time of year did you do your climb?
Post by: JLS on August 15, 2013, 10:10:26 AM
I never really noticed that I never really hear of anyone climbing Baker. Hood, Rainier seem to be tops, with Adams and Helens being just glorified hikes. hmmmmmmm
The northwest side of Adams is a much more technical climb than the south approach.
Post by: netcoyote on August 15, 2013, 10:50:32 AM
You really do need to be aware of rope techniques and crevasse rescue if you go on the "standard route" of Roman Wall via Heliotrope Ridge because you will be crossing glaciers. Don't just read about the techniques in a book, actually go throiugh scenarios with the people you will be climbing with. Travel in rope teams of 2 or 3. Don't try it solo. You didn't mention a schedule but I wouldn't advise trying Baker this late in the season if you are not experienced with glacier travel. Crevasses can get pretty large this time of year and some routes may require ice travel to navigate around crevasses.
I remember coming back from a Baker climb on time and seeing what appeared to be a glissade chute that went right down over the edge of a crevasse. I looked over the edge to about a 100 ft deep crack but saw no evidence that anyone had gone in. Don't be tempted to glissade a glacier...EVER. Way too risky.
Watch for possible rock or icefall near the Black Buttes. Watch the weather both the prior week (so you know what the snow conditions are likely to be) and the forcast for the next few days. June/July is probably the best time to climb as far as weather and snow conditions. Don't climb into a whiteout.
Be careful and have fun!
Post by: Rob on August 15, 2013, 11:12:21 AM
Our MO for climbs has been to pick a couple weekends and then watch the Wx. if it not good then we cancel.
What we may do is take a walk up the Mt and if it looks dicey turn our climb. that will at least get us some exposure as to what to expect.
We would want to go for the least techncial assult on the summit.
Great input everyone, love to hear more.
Post by: Knocker of rocks on August 15, 2013, 11:14:29 AM
Much different than Mount St Helens. Both sides have major glaciers to cross, with crevasse falls always a potential. When I climbed it in 1977, we had a snow bridge collapse and a member took a 40' fall. It was quite the project to get him out.
Rainier is potentially less complicated because you have RMI shoveling their trench to the top
what time of year did you do your climb?
Did the North Ridge in June and the Coleman Headwall in January
Post by: boneaddict on August 15, 2013, 11:14:57 AM
Post by: Knocker of rocks on August 15, 2013, 11:31:37 AM
Post by: Knocker of rocks on August 16, 2013, 07:43:02 AM
The northwest side of Adams is a much more technical climb than the south approach.
That looks like the Adams Glacier
Post by: JLS on August 16, 2013, 08:08:14 AM
The northwest side of Adams is a much more technical climb than the south approach.
That looks like the Adams Glacier
Yep :tup:
Post by: Rob on August 16, 2013, 08:09:29 AM
Photo is titled Adams too.
Here is one from Adams near the summit on the East side. sulfer fumes were coming out of the crevasse which was cool.
Post by: Knocker of rocks on August 16, 2013, 08:19:01 AM
I think that is what he was saying.
Photo is titled Adams too.
Could have been Stormy Monday, or the North Face of the NW
Post by: Knocker of rocks on August 16, 2013, 08:20:01 AM
The northwest side of Adams is a much more technical climb than the south approach.
That looks like the Adams Glacier
Yep :tup:
Fun climb, did it back in '77
Post by: X-Force on August 16, 2013, 08:41:08 AM
The Roman wall was something else for sure. And our camp spot was awesome, away from people and a near perfect view.
Post by: JLS on August 16, 2013, 08:49:44 AM
The northwest side of Adams is a much more technical climb than the south approach.
That looks like the Adams Glacier
Yep :tup:
Fun climb, did it back in '77
Not to make you feel old, but I was in 1st grade in '77. :)
Post by: Knocker of rocks on August 16, 2013, 09:05:42 AM