Post by: Band on August 20, 2013, 06:03:39 PM
Post by: steeleywhopper on August 20, 2013, 06:14:18 PM
Post by: Band on August 20, 2013, 06:21:48 PM
Post by: bowNarrow on August 20, 2013, 06:33:07 PM
Post by: Band on August 20, 2013, 07:19:26 PM
Post by: Smossy on August 20, 2013, 07:27:59 PM
Post by: Band on August 20, 2013, 07:47:27 PM
Post by: hughjorgan on August 20, 2013, 08:11:09 PM
Post by: Band on August 20, 2013, 08:20:11 PM
Post by: Smossy on August 20, 2013, 08:39:01 PM
By spray on foot powder are you talking about athletes foot spray - like Tinactin?If it leaves a white residue that will stay unless contact is made it might work. Its a trick I learned from the winnerschoice channel on youtube.
Bow Tuning with Broadheads 1.flv (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yl8e_TbCUBA#ws)
Go to about 45 seconds.
Post by: hughjorgan on August 20, 2013, 08:39:17 PM
Post by: Band on August 21, 2013, 07:25:24 AM
Did you try rotating your nock to change orientation of vanes to avoid contact?I'm close enough to the bottom of the shelf that nock rotation will potentially get me in trouble there as well.
Post by: hughjorgan on August 21, 2013, 07:29:31 AM
Post by: coachcw on August 21, 2013, 07:38:55 AM
Post by: Band on August 21, 2013, 08:23:05 AM
That is probably your problem, move your arrow rest so your arrow rest runs the arrow through the top half of your Berger holes. That will solve your cable contact issue. What type of bow is this any how?Diamond Outlaw. Now that you mention it, I see that the arrow shaft is lined up with the bottom half of the holes. Looks like I need to make a trip back to the shop to have the nock reset so I can finally get my bow tuned before the season starts. As you might guess, I've been having a lot of difficulty with arrow flight and grouping. :bash:
Post by: hntrspud on August 21, 2013, 08:40:34 AM
Post by: Band on August 21, 2013, 12:34:20 PM
Post by: hughjorgan on August 22, 2013, 08:35:33 PM
Post by: Band on August 23, 2013, 07:35:20 AM
I'm hoping to get out today and shoot at longer range so I can check arrow flight. It shot a bullet hole in paper so I think I'm in the zone, just have to broadhead tune now.
I was impressed with Denton both personally and professionally. No doubt this won't be the last time I visit his shop. :)
Post by: Crunchy on August 23, 2013, 07:56:05 AM
Post by: Band on August 23, 2013, 08:41:50 AM
Post by: hughjorgan on August 23, 2013, 12:15:13 PM
Post by: Band on August 23, 2013, 12:39:21 PM
Post by: Smossy on August 23, 2013, 06:12:08 PM
Post by: Jonathan_S on August 23, 2013, 06:24:20 PM
:dunno:
Post by: Smossy on August 23, 2013, 06:29:39 PM
I shoot blazers on micro diameter arrows and there is a tiny amount of fletch contact but I don't think it's hurting me?? My groups are tighter than I ever could have hoped a few months ago.As far as I know, any contact period, can and will cause problems.
:dunno:
Post by: Smossy on August 23, 2013, 06:37:43 PM
Wow, I can't help but wonder if there is some other factor in play here. I just shot from 40 & 50 yards and although the corkscrewing arrow flight is gone there is still a pretty fair amount of fishtailing, even after left-right adjustments to the rest and vane contact to the bow has been eliminated. I've got too much going on the next couple of days but I can see I have some more tinkering to do pretty quick to get this thing shooting darts again. :o
Use bare shaft planing test to correct fishtailing. Shoot three fletched shafts at a distance of 15 to 20 yards then shoot two identically aimed "unfletched" shafts.. if the unfletched shaft impacts left (stiff) of the identically aimmed fletched shafts (for a right handed archer) either decrease the spring tension on your cushion plunger, increase bow weight slightly (if your bow weight is adjustable) or increase arrow point weight.
If the unflteched shafts impact right (weak) of the identically aimed, fletched shafts. Inrease the spring tension on your cushion plunger decrease bow weight slightly, or reduce arrow point weight.
Your equipment is basically tuned when the bare shafts and fletched shafts impact at the same or very near the same location.
Post by: barracuda163 on August 23, 2013, 07:52:20 PM
Post by: coachcw on August 23, 2013, 08:02:45 PM
Yep, I took it to Denton at Rock Creek Archery in Enumclaw yesterday and he saw the nock position (and associated rest position) problem immediately. He fixed me up and I took it home and promptly robin hooded arrow #1 with arrow #2 at 20 yards. Woohoo!....oh, and d*mn! 8)
I'm hoping to get out today and shoot at longer range so I can check arrow flight. It shot a bullet hole in paper so I think I'm in the zone, just have to broadhead tune now.
I was impressed with Denton both personally and professionally. No doubt this won't be the last time I visit his shop. :)
you need to raise your rest then reset your nock or dloop to level . It shouldn't be that close . and I wouldn't get away from blazers , a four fletch blazer in a x pattern works quiet well .As I said , denton is a really good bow tech (play on words ) he is my goto guy. I never mess with bare shafts . pretty easy to figure out spine then shoot paper , don't over think it !
Post by: Band on August 27, 2013, 07:18:05 AM
I had to go to stiffer spine arrow than recommended with my outlaw, straightened my arrow flight out. Im not sure if this happens to a lot of people, but I'm ok with shooting what works.I did the same and the arrows were flying perfectly. But those same arrows now have the fishtailing so it has to be something else. I finally picked up my old bow which is still shooting very well, although a lot slower than my Outlaw, so I guess I'm going back to it this year. Time is too short. :bash: