Hunting Washington Forum
Community => Taxidermy & Scoring => Topic started by: Michelle_Nelson on September 28, 2013, 07:22:10 PM
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My project for the past few days. . . . .cleaning and buffing Bear Claws for a necklace. Here is what the claws look like after they have been majorly degreased, tanned and dried.
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You going to show us the entire process? I would be interested in reading it if you are interested in posting it.
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that's cool, can't wait to see the finished product :tup:
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So how do you keep the cartilage and the claws from slippin?
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I usually start off by trimming off as much of the dried flesh as I can with a scalpel blade. Got to be careful not to cut into the claw though. Once I get them trimmed as far as I can with the scalpel I use a 180 grit and sander bit on dremal tool to remove more of the flesh. You also have to be careful that you dont burn a hole through the claw when using the sanding bit.
Once all the flesh is removed I use the 240 grit sanding bit to touch up the claw. If there is any tiny amount of flesh remaining or where it has, splits, hang nails and rough areas.
When you work on claws that have been sitting out raw to long or have been tanned they can sometimes come apart. Bear Claws are not solid. They have a sheeth (claw) and a core (bone). Just like the hair on a hide that has been mishandles, claws can slip.
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If a claw comes apart it's no big deal. Pull it all the way apart and put a little super glue on the inside of the claw and on the core. Slide it back together and use a clothes pin to pinch the claw until the glue dries. You could probably get away with elmers glue but it will take a lot longer for it to set up.
Here are the claws after the 240 grit sanding bit was used.
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After the super glue has dried I remove the clothes pins and go over the entire claw with a 320 grit sanding bit. This is what I use to buff the claw and remove what ever super glue might have gotten on the claw. It cleans them up pretty nice.
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used to use epoxy to set them myself.
