Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => All Other Gear => Topic started by: TheHunt on September 28, 2013, 08:44:33 PM
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I have a pair of three year old boots. They are gortex Cabela's boats and they have about two years left. How do I get them back to waterproof? What do people do to water proof gortex boots?
Buy new ones is not a good answer.
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If they're Goretex they should not be leaking. If they are leaking, the Goretex is ruined. I ruined a pair of Goretex boots by treating the leather with mink oil. Apparently that's a no-no. Now I use a special beeswax boot grease that is compatible with the Goretex but its not to waterproof the boots, it's to protect the leather.
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They are just the cheap Cabela's brand boots. They are light weight and I think I paid 69 dollars for them three years ago. I am just trying to keep them going for two more years and I will buy a new pair.
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What I did was greased up the leakers and use them solely for camp boots. I hunt steep country and my feet sweat so my good boots, although waterproof, still need to dry out overnight.
If your boots are cordura, then I think your only hope would be that spray on stuff but I've never had good luck with that on hunting boots. It just seems to rub off too quickly in grass/brush.
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Goretex on boots is garbage. I've been thru 5 pairs of Goretex boots in the last 5 season. They keep warranty-ing them, but that is a PITA. If they are leaking, there is not much you can do except get some Goretex socks to wear in them...the boots will still leak, but you stay dry-ish.
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You might want to try Freesole on the places that are stitched. If its the actual gortex that's leaking you might be screwed. I freesole all the places that are stitched and along the bottom rubber part of my Kennetrek boots as soon as I get them. It makes them last a lot longer.
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Nikwax works pretty well. I've used it on some lightweight horetex boots that were no longer waterproof( more like water resistant) I also use it on my goretex boots that are still good. It doesn't seem to over penetrate like something like mink oil will do. Although I would definetly read the directions before using any waterproofing product on expensive hunting boots
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obenhaufs? The black container stuff for firefighters or something. Supposed to be safe for gortex boots. I use it. Works but must apply often. Hubbards still my favorite but not good for gortex stuff.
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Well, that makes me think that those boots are only for nice weather. Time to buy another pair...
That is just me being a cheap as possible getting every dime out of what I purchase.
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Re: resealing boots
« Reply #7 on: Today at 10:01:35 PM »
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obenhaufs? The black container stuff for firefighters or something. Supposed to be safe for gortex boots. I use it. Works but must apply often. Hubbards still my favorite but not good for gortex stuff.
^^^. That's really good stuff too. I always use it on my wet season work boots. I just don't care for the smell on my hunting boots. It doesn't stink, kind of a sweet almost honey like smell. Must be the propolis in it, apparently that's what bees waterproof their hives with. Protects leather really well.
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2-3 years is about it for $69 boots. I'd say get some better boots. :dunno:
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I cannot get more than 3 years out of any boot it seems. Danners would fall apart and now I wear Irish setter elk hunter 600gr and I like them but I wear holes in the soles after 3years. :bash: Might try the USA made Danner Rain forest next?
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obenhaufs? The black container stuff for firefighters or something. Supposed to be safe for gortex boots. I use it. Works but must apply often. Hubbards still my favorite but not good for gortex stuff.
This stuff is awesome. Get the thick waxy stuff and rub it in, heat up your boots to let it soak in for 24 hours, then do it again. Really concentrate on the seams. This stuff is great for the leather, its safe on Gortex boots and does actuallly waterproof as well. As noted though, you have to reapply fairly often. On a week long hunt where I'm covering a lot of ground, I will usually touch it up in the last 2 days.
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In my experience, from hunting/hiking, to wildland firefighting, to everyday boot wear on job sites and climing on equipment, you can't beat Obenauf's. Get the leather nice and clean, then rub it in with your fingers. Body heat will melt it into the leather. Get it all over the seams. Then, throw them in the oven for 10-15 minutes on 100 degrees. Do this once every 2 months or so. Keeps the leather nice and soft and pliable too.
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:yeah: Same stuff I use, but I put them next to the fire to heat up. Haven't used the oven yet.
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I cannot get more than 3 years out of any boot it seems. Danners would fall apart and now I wear Irish setter elk hunter 600gr and I like them but I wear holes in the soles after 3years. :bash: Might try the USA made Danner Rain forest next?
I'd get away from Danners if it were me. Seems like everyone has problems with them. I've been using the same Meindl Perfekt hunters I bought from the bargain cave at Cabelas about 5 years ago. I paid +/- $69 for them. No leaks. They've done the high hunt a couple times, a couple hundred miles worth of general hiking, been to the top of Mt Adams, and I wear them a lot for every day use too.
Kenetrek, Meindl, Asolo, etc.
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GORE is junk!! it has no shelf life! its not made to be bent or creased! tell me how that applies to boots or clothing?If you put a pair of Gore lined anything next to a stove or a fire to dry you might as well kiss it goodbye..A gore rep told me this... that high heat will ruin Gore and its waterproofing almost immediately. My best logic with Gore in boots is to buy extremely stiff boots that are hard to crease such as Meindls :chuckle: and they will stay waterproof longer
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Obenaufs for waterproofing. I use them on my Danner's. Water just beads right off. Like someone said, Two or three thick layers drying in between each one. Then get the oil for out and about. Re-oil them in between re-applying the wax.
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Yep, obenaufs is awesome...I use my wife's hair dryer and the oven...Danners are awesome too by the way. Only boot Ill ever buy, if they wear out send them in and Danner will rebuild them.
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I love Danner boots, but you have to buy the made in USA ones. Which means you are gonna spend $300+. There is a night and day difference between them and their china garbage. The Pronghorn isn't half as comfortable as the USA made boots and only last half as long. I get about 6 -7 years out of the USA boots before the Gore-tex starts leaking. But I only use them 2-3 weeks a year. I do most of my scouting in light hikers.
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If $69 boots lasted more than a season, be happy. Toss them and buy a new pair. I thought gore tex in boots sucked until I quit buying cheap boots. It's a craftsmanship thing, like most other things. Y get what you pay for, to an extent, anyway
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I forgot to mention how comfortable Danner boots are sometimes when I get home from work or from hunting I want to leave them on because they feel so good on my feet
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If $69 boots lasted more than a season, be happy. Toss them and buy a new pair. I thought gore tex in boots sucked until I quit buying cheap boots. It's a craftsmanship thing, like most other things. Y get what you pay for, to an extent, anyway
Not sure if you're referring to my comment about my $69 bargain cave boots. They're normally ~$200 or so...not sure why they were in the cave. Someone on here posted about them on sale and I scrambled to get a pair before they were sold out.
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Best "waterproof" boots I have ever had were a Redwing/Irish Setter double leather boot. Two layers of leather and lightly insulated. Wore them for years. Still have a basically brand new pair waiting in my gear for me.... They discontinued them, but the owner here in Lacey picked up a couple at some other stores for me, knew I would buy them... :chuckle:
These leather boots had no goretex or liner, just leather and the tad bit of insulation, still the best "waterproof" boot I have ever owned. Probably due to the dual layers. I would treat them with multiple coats of silicone spray and they would last through an elk season and not leak through....
Only problem with the boot, was their weight. (and cost...darned expensive for the day)
I would always wear the more broken in pair for the normal days of hunting, then break out the newest best shape pair for wet weather. Might as well protect what you have... I always have footwear options at camp.
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It was just a general comment, jackelope. All the cheap regular piece boots I've bought have leaked and none of the expensive I've bought have ever leaked. They last longer and you can usually resole them, so the expensive boots are cheaper in the long run.
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10-4.
I'm curious to know what re-soling costs. Is it cost effective?
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A couple weeks ago I had my Red Wing boots resolved with Vibram soles for $90. He did a good job and they don't leak.
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10-4.
I'm curious to know what re-soling costs. Is it cost effective?
I would say yes it can be cost effective.
I have resoled probably four sets over the years, and observed great results. I was spending only about 70$ resoling $230 boots, but that was probably 8 years ago. Got good mileage from the boots then. Never exhausted the new soles. I would usually have them cap the toes over while they re-soled the boot. Stiffened it up a bit and made it a tad heavier, but would extend boot life a good bit.