Hunting Washington Forum
Other Hunting => Waterfowl => Topic started by: krism83 on November 07, 2013, 01:35:27 AM
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But I have no idea what the fine details are as far as gear and what not. Just a couple questions.
Other then a shotgun what are must haves, what are should haves, and what are things I shouldn't bother with?
What do I have to do to get all of the licenses and stuff? Just go to walmart and buy them?
I figure since I have a scatter gun in the safe I might as well use it, right?
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yep,im gonna get into it myself.first thing i did was found someone to personally go to cabelas with me and help me get my liscense,and gear.
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You need a duck stamp and your migratory bird validation to hunt them. If you can find some one to show you it's better. You will want a set of chest waders, the cabelas 3mm are a good bang for your buck. If you are wanting to set decoys I'd recommend getting a dozen mallards and probably another dozen wigeon/ teal/ pintail decoys. Calling takes lots if practice, but I would also recommend you get a jerk line to put some movement on the water on calm days.
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Start off with a bank loan to keep the interest down. Around here with very little public property get a boat with a blind that's big enough that you can hunt out of of. May as well get a touch bigger to fish and crab along the shores not too far out but great for nice sunny days. Going to need decoys eventually you will want quality so get them from the beginning. Buy floaters and the weights and cord to go with it usually is the cost of the decoys. May as well get field decoys too just in case you get invited to a private field because then you might get invited again. That's just for ducks goose hunting decoys is expensive. You will need some kind of flipper or flappers things to set out as well on non-windy days. All your spreads will need to be pretty good size if hunting public land so you can compete. Add some good calls blind bag, layouts, hauler for decoys,. Guns can really add up because you will always want an automatic so get it from the start. Did I say now Seaducks and the cost of those little suckers and oh my some Brant to mix in. If you get it all I would have to say at least a $30,000 investment should do it about right. I started small, But upgrading and changing out doing right from the start would have saved money. I bet I'm close to what somebody would have into it if they had all that stuff. It can really be expensive if you want it to be and I'm sure I missed a lot.
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i think the best bet for a newduck hunter is to go with someone who already has a good decoy spread and who is a somewhat good caller/hunter see if u are even gonna like getting into the sport b4 u make a big investment
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i think the best bet for a newduck hunter is to go with someone who already has a good decoy spread and who is a somewhat good caller/hunter see if u are even gonna like getting into the sport b4 u make a big investment
:yeah:
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Good quality waterproof clothing and chest waders. With out the proper gear duck hunting can be miserable especially in the late season. My chest waders are the best investment I've made as far as gear.
A boat or a dog is a must as well unless you have some place to jump shoot or field hunt.
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Buy a face mask or some camo face paint. 2 sets of gloves. One waterproof set for picking up decoys and one to use while you hunt. I like the 7 gallon buckets with a seat on them, keeps stuff dry and they are tall enough to hold a coffee thermos.
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Ducks live in water.... just remember that you will get wet.
A lot of these guys are posting good things you need.
But here is the basics... in order of priority... in my opinion for a beginner.
These are all asuming you can't get a chance to go with an experianced hunter.
1. Shotgun. (You have that covered)
2. Range time. (practice lots with you gun. if you can, practice with your hunting jacket on)
3. Waterfowl ID. (it is very important to know what you are shooting at. some ducks, like mallards, you can fill your daily limit with. others.... you may only be able to harvest 1 a year, or a couple a day. Depends on the species or the sex. Plus, while you are duck and goose hunting there are lots of birds that look similar to ducks, but are not. You must know the difference. www.ducks.org (http://www.ducks.org) is a good starting point. so is the state site http://wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/waterfowl/types_ducks.html (http://wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/waterfowl/types_ducks.html) )
4. CAMO! (above all else, remember this: DUCKS ARE BIRDS. BIRDS SEE IN COLOR. You must be camoflauged out like a freaking ninja to be successfull. This sould be as simple as face paint and sitting in the bushes, or as complex as a $10,000 boat blind. You decide. but you must be hidden from the ducks to be successfull)
4....along with camo, you should consider that duck hunting is very cold. so if you are going to buy gear, make sure it keeps you dry, and warm. Wear layers.
5. Some method of Retrieving the dead ducks. (there are lots of ways, the best is a dog. But chest waders will allow you to retrieve quite a few birds on your own. Just make sure you kill them in shallow water. Or simply use a boat to go pick up the ducks. I personally... use a dog, waders, and a boat.)
Beyond these 5 things, there a million things you can get to improve your odds. From duck calls to decoys to jerk cords to layout blinds... etc. But honestly if you are just starting out, you can have a wonderful hunt just camo'd up sitting next to a small irrigation ditch waiting for what is know as "Pass shooting" oportunities to come your way.
With a good pair of waders you can even become successful simply jump shooting little ponds or streams, not unlike how you hunt pheasants, but around water.
Start out simple... the next few years will get crazy enough, but just remember you only need the basics, of course which... many people will differ opinions on.
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Solid recommendation Biggluke. :yeah:
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Thanks for all of the info guys. From the sounds of it, I need to make a trip down to Cabelas (oh darn) and pick up some waders. Now is there some magical power in a jacket designed for bird hunting opposed to the jacket I already have? Granted its a mossy oak pattern opposed to max 4d but is specific pattern that important?
I have a 2 year old lab that I would love to train or get trained to hunt with me. As it is right now he knows some pretty basic commands for around the house but I can assure you that stay and heel are not ones he has mastered lol.
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Thanks for all of the info guys. From the sounds of it, I need to make a trip down to Cabelas (oh darn) and pick up some waders. Now is there some magical power in a jacket designed for bird hunting opposed to the jacket I already have? Granted its a mossy oak pattern opposed to max 4d but is specific pattern that important?
I have a 2 year old lab that I would love to train or get trained to hunt with me. As it is right now he knows some pretty basic commands for around the house but I can assure you that stay and heel are not ones he has mastered lol.
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your old jacket is probably fine. Camo pattern is way overrated, your hide is much more important, if you can remain unseen when in your blind there really is no need for camo, but sometimes you may have to hunt a place that it is hard to hide in and then wearing camo does help some.
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Start off with a bank loan to keep the interest down. Around here with very little public property get a boat with a blind that's big enough that you can hunt out of of. May as well get a touch bigger to fish and crab along the shores not too far out but great for nice sunny days. Going to need decoys eventually you will want quality so get them from the beginning. Buy floaters and the weights and cord to go with it usually is the cost of the decoys. May as well get field decoys too just in case you get invited to a private field because then you might get invited again. That's just for ducks goose hunting decoys is expensive. You will need some kind of flipper or flappers things to set out as well on non-windy days. All your spreads will need to be pretty good size if hunting public land so you can compete. Add some good calls blind bag, layouts, hauler for decoys,. Guns can really add up because you will always want an automatic so get it from the start. Did I say now Seaducks and the cost of those little suckers and oh my some Brant to mix in. If you get it all I would have to say at least a $30,000 investment should do it about right. I started small, But upgrading and changing out doing right from the start would have saved money. I bet I'm close to what somebody would have into it if they had all that stuff. It can really be expensive if you want it to be and I'm sure I missed a lot.
wow you got it tough
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great advice big luke
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Your lab will work fine. If nothing else, when you're getting started, throw a rock at the dead bird. Your lab will go to get the rock and come back with the bird. After awhile, he'll associate a downed bird as something to bring back to you.
Don't know if they still have any or not, but last month I was at Sortsmans & picked up a pair of Lacrosse 5 mil swamp tough neoprene waders w/ 1000 grams thiosulfate for $200, $100 off. They we on close out, so I'm not sure if they have anymore.
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Krism83,
I just turned 30 this past October and decided that I wanted to start doing all the hunting that my dad never did so didn't teach me. :bash: I bought a jacket in realtree camo from cabela's for $130 ($60 off, they are having a camo sale though mid Nov.). I have a pair of old hogman's waiters in green so I wear those with a pair of rain bibs over. I spray painted the bibs in a camo colors to save some $$$. If your on a tight budget you could prolly pick up a pair of good fishing waiters ($40 on CL) and then do the same as me with the rain bibs. The bibs also keep all the burrs out of the neoprene.
I bought a DR 85 call ($20) and practice in my truck when I'm driving and a Mossberg 535 ($380 out the door @ Low Price Guns, Bellevue).
I have also only fished in the past so had to do the hunters education class. Kind of a pain and a little too straight forward but makes me feel better that other people have to take it as well.
I have a good friend that is a WDFW officer so he has been showing me some public land spots and hooked me up with a friend of his who has a farm near duvall.
BEst of luck!!!!
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Ducks live in water.... just remember that you will get wet.
A lot of these guys are posting good things you need.
But here is the basics... in order of priority... in my opinion for a beginner.
These are all asuming you can't get a chance to go with an experianced hunter.
1. Shotgun. (You have that covered)
2. Range time. (practice lots with you gun. if you can, practice with your hunting jacket on)
3. Waterfowl ID. (it is very important to know what you are shooting at. some ducks, like mallards, you can fill your daily limit with. others.... you may only be able to harvest 1 a year, or a couple a day. Depends on the species or the sex. Plus, while you are duck and goose hunting there are lots of birds that look similar to ducks, but are not. You must know the difference. www.ducks.org (http://www.ducks.org) is a good starting point. so is the state site http://wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/waterfowl/types_ducks.html (http://wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/waterfowl/types_ducks.html) )
4. CAMO! (above all else, remember this: DUCKS ARE BIRDS. BIRDS SEE IN COLOR. You must be camoflauged out like a freaking ninja to be successfull. This sould be as simple as face paint and sitting in the bushes, or as complex as a $10,000 boat blind. You decide. but you must be hidden from the ducks to be successfull)
4....along with camo, you should consider that duck hunting is very cold. so if you are going to buy gear, make sure it keeps you dry, and warm. Wear layers.
5. Some method of Retrieving the dead ducks. (there are lots of ways, the best is a dog. But chest waders will allow you to retrieve quite a few birds on your own. Just make sure you kill them in shallow water. Or simply use a boat to go pick up the ducks. I personally... use a dog, waders, and a boat.)
Beyond these 5 things, there a million things you can get to improve your odds. From duck calls to decoys to jerk cords to layout blinds... etc. But honestly if you are just starting out, you can have a wonderful hunt just camo'd up sitting next to a small irrigation ditch waiting for what is know as "Pass shooting" oportunities to come your way.
With a good pair of waders you can even become successful simply jump shooting little ponds or streams, not unlike how you hunt pheasants, but around water.
Start out simple... the next few years will get crazy enough, but just remember you only need the basics, of course which... many people will differ opinions on.
Big luke is spot on.
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Krism83,
I am in the same boat. I have everything and am ready to go but also looking for a fellow hunter to go with. I live in Spokane Valley so if you wanna go PM me and we can exchange info and head out! I haven't gone duck hunting since i was a kid so I am dying to down some birds!!
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The first step is to take a hunters safety course.... It is a requirement before you buy your license. It's going to be very tough/impossible to complete one at this point in the season and still be able to hunt. After that I would strongly suggest hunting with someone who has experience with duck hunting, calling, map reading... etc. It can be dangerous, thankless, exhausting, freezing, and miserable work... on good days, which is why I love it. It's a year round thing for most of us, gathering gear, building blinds, boats, scouting, dogs. I'd suggest studying and really getting to know the distances involved. You need to know how far your shot travels, your killing range, how far away from other hunters to set up, how far to lead a bird... etc. Hope you get hooked!
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Your lab will work fine. If nothing else, when you're getting started, throw a rock at the dead bird. Your lab will go to get the rock and come back with the bird. After awhile, he'll associate a downed bird as something to bring back to you.
Don't know if they still have any or not, but last month I was at Sortsmans & picked up a pair of Lacrosse 5 mil swamp tough neoprene waders w/ 1000 grams thiosulfate for $200, $100 off. They we on close out, so I'm not sure if they have anymore.
He's right... allthough kinda funny... throwing a rock at the bird can make a huge difference for a new dog.
After he gets a few birds in his mouth he won't have any trouble finding them.
But the splash from the rock does seem to help the dog locate the bird.
Good advice
however.... just don't do what my brother did with a dog a few years back... we were hunting an area with absolulety no rocks.... so.... he threw empty shells at the ducks.
That damn dog never stopped chewing on shells for the rest of the time we had him. I think he got a taste for the gun powder residue. lol....
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The first step is to take a hunters safety course.... It is a requirement before you buy your license. It's going to be very tough/impossible to complete one at this point in the season and still be able to hunt. After that I would strongly suggest hunting with someone who has experience with duck hunting, calling, map reading... etc. It can be dangerous, thankless, exhausting, freezing, and miserable work... on good days, which is why I love it. It's a year round thing for most of us, gathering gear, building blinds, boats, scouting, dogs. I'd suggest studying and really getting to know the distances involved. You need to know how far your shot travels, your killing range, how far away from other hunters to set up, how far to lead a bird... etc. Hope you get hooked!
Is this a different course then your standard course you need to get any license?
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It's the same course
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Ducks live in water.... just remember that you will get wet.
A lot of these guys are posting good things you need.
But here is the basics... in order of priority... in my opinion for a beginner.
These are all asuming you can't get a chance to go with an experianced hunter.
1. Shotgun. (You have that covered)
2. Range time. (practice lots with you gun. if you can, practice with your hunting jacket on)
3. Waterfowl ID. (it is very important to know what you are shooting at. some ducks, like mallards, you can fill your daily limit with. others.... you may only be able to harvest 1 a year, or a couple a day. Depends on the species or the sex. Plus, while you are duck and goose hunting there are lots of birds that look similar to ducks, but are not. You must know the difference. www.ducks.org (http://www.ducks.org) is a good starting point. so is the state site http://wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/waterfowl/types_ducks.html (http://wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/waterfowl/types_ducks.html) )
4. CAMO! (above all else, remember this: DUCKS ARE BIRDS. BIRDS SEE IN COLOR. You must be camoflauged out like a freaking ninja to be successfull. This sould be as simple as face paint and sitting in the bushes, or as complex as a $10,000 boat blind. You decide. but you must be hidden from the ducks to be successfull)
4....along with camo, you should consider that duck hunting is very cold. so if you are going to buy gear, make sure it keeps you dry, and warm. Wear layers.
5. Some method of Retrieving the dead ducks. (there are lots of ways, the best is a dog. But chest waders will allow you to retrieve quite a few birds on your own. Just make sure you kill them in shallow water. Or simply use a boat to go pick up the ducks. I personally... use a dog, waders, and a boat.)
Beyond these 5 things, there a million things you can get to improve your odds. From duck calls to decoys to jerk cords to layout blinds... etc. But honestly if you are just starting out, you can have a wonderful hunt just camo'd up sitting next to a small irrigation ditch waiting for what is know as "Pass shooting" oportunities to come your way.
With a good pair of waders you can even become successful simply jump shooting little ponds or streams, not unlike how you hunt pheasants, but around water.
Start out simple... the next few years will get crazy enough, but just remember you only need the basics, of course which... many people will differ opinions on.
Big luke is spot on.
Under Practice - do it with your duck hunting ammo, Walmart has 2 3/4" #6 steel for $7/box right now, this would work for paractice and also swatting cripples.
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Don't get into waterfowling, it is too much money for what you get, a duck tastes bad, smells bad, and tough as rubber. Hunt upland birds and you'll save a bunch of money and get better exercise.
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Don't get into waterfowling, it is too much money for what you get, a duck tastes bad, smells bad, and tough as rubber. Hunt upland birds and you'll save a bunch of money and get better exercise.
:chuckle:
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Kris we are researching the same thing :tup: it looks like over here the best opportunity is the skagit area according to wdfw thats where most of the public land is. at least thats all i have "deciphered" of the wdfw double talk back smack wa-bonics legal jargon so far :chuckle: we do not have shotguns or a boat yet but i do in fact have a sweet 15 horse kicker to get us anywhere :tup: great thread, great info, thank you all for sharing! i asked and got a link wdfw.com :bash: