Post by: bobcat on November 20, 2013, 07:32:31 PM
The next morning the battery was fully charged, and my brother came over early and we took it hunting. Luckily we only had to drive about 10 miles. Didn't have any problems until I got home and then went to leave again with the kids and wife. When I backed out of the driveway it died right in the middle of the street. We jump started it with my wife's car.
It started right up and ran fine, so we continued on to where we were going. Got about 1/4 mile and the windshiled wipers quit working, the fan for the defrost quit, the dash lights went out, pretty much everything electrical was dead. I hurried up and turned it around and drove home. Just got to the driveway and it died again, and I was able to coast into the driveway.
I jump started it again, and drove it to the back of the house where my detached garage is, which is where I normally park it. Put the battery charger on it again overnight. The next day I was at work and my uncle came over to check it out for me. He said it started up fine and ran fine. But after a little bit, it began running like crap. Like it wasn't getting enough fuel.
He ended up taking out the alternator, and he went to the store and got a new one. He put the new one in and started it up but it was still running terrible. So he took the new alternator back and returned it to the store.
We've got a friend who is supposed to come over sometime with a code reader. But until then, does anyone have any idea what the issue could be? I figured for sure it was the alternator, or if not that, the battery. The battery is 6 years old. The alternator is the original and the truck has 130,000 miles on it. My uncle says it's not the battery and not the alternator, but I'm not sure about that. I do wonder why the truck is barely running now, if it's only an alternator or a battery issue.
Post by: 10thmountainarcher on November 20, 2013, 07:36:50 PM
Post by: BNAElkhntr on November 20, 2013, 07:41:14 PM
Post by: bobcat on November 20, 2013, 07:43:41 PM
If you have a digital volt meter read the volts when truck is running above 14.0 volts then when off above 13 volts or take too O'reillys they can tell you if either one is bad The stalling might be a fuel filter
So if it was a bad fuel filter, is it just a coincidence that it happened at the same time as the electrical problem?
Post by: bobcat on November 20, 2013, 07:50:05 PM
Post by: whacker1 on November 20, 2013, 07:55:50 PM
Post by: bobcat on November 20, 2013, 07:59:55 PM
So he ends up buying a new alternator for $150, brings it back and installs it. Starts up the truck and it still is running like crap, like it's starving for fuel. So he decides the alternator isn't the issue, and takes the new one back for a refund. :dunno:
Post by: jackelope on November 20, 2013, 08:23:04 PM
Post by: 6x6in6 on November 20, 2013, 08:29:58 PM
My gut says your 6 year old battery has had possibly a bad cell in it and now you have lost another cell or more. Chevy's have a number of computers to run various aspects of the truck. If they are not getting the proper voltage then this may cause your run ability issues too.
Post by: 270Shooter on November 20, 2013, 08:32:23 PM
Post by: snowpack on November 20, 2013, 08:32:41 PM
Post by: bobcat on November 20, 2013, 08:40:03 PM
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Post by: jackelope on November 20, 2013, 08:44:00 PM
Post by: carpsniperg2 on November 20, 2013, 08:45:24 PM
Post by: bobcat on November 20, 2013, 08:46:42 PM
fuel pump relay? Fuel pressure regulator? The ground wires for the fuel pump--one near the gas cap from inside another from by the frame and front of the bed? They can get corroded and then give inconsistent grounding especially if mud/dirt from driving logging roads gets on them. Then it randomly kills the fuel pump.
Those are some good ideas as well. The only thing that's ever been replaced on my truck is the fuel pump.
Well, this weekend I will have time to get the alternator tested. And I guess I'll just buy a new battery if the alternator tests out okay.
If that doesn't solve the problem maybe the code reader will help? But I'd guess not. If it's some sort of grounding issue.
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Post by: Crunchy on November 20, 2013, 08:47:36 PM
Post by: Slimdog350 on November 20, 2013, 08:59:04 PM
Post by: lostbackpacker on November 20, 2013, 09:15:18 PM
I think each cell should read 2 amps
Post by: bobcat on November 20, 2013, 09:17:53 PM
Post by: jackelope on November 20, 2013, 09:45:57 PM
If I take the battery to NAPA or another auto parts store, will they be able to do the proper testing?
Yes.
Post by: jackelope on November 20, 2013, 09:46:54 PM
. To check the alt Wth truck running take pos battery cable off. Load alt by turning on all electronics. If it dies, alt is bad.
??
Post by: bobcat on November 20, 2013, 09:48:48 PM
If I take the battery to NAPA or another auto parts store, will they be able to do the proper testing?
Yes.
Thanks. I will try that first. I've got a NAPA just down the road.
Post by: washelkhunter on November 20, 2013, 09:49:46 PM
Post by: jackelope on November 20, 2013, 09:56:00 PM
Post by: snowpack on November 20, 2013, 10:06:18 PM
Really, things should be tested and diagnosed properly before people start throwing random batteries, alternators, fuel pressure regulators, and whatever else the next guy comes up with at it.Fuel pressure regulators, ground wires and the fuel pump relay can be checked with no cost or real time investment. Easy enough to do with hardly any tools and helps eliminate possibilities that can be masked by electrical gremlins.
Post by: HntnFsh on November 21, 2013, 05:55:58 AM
Really, things should be tested and diagnosed properly before people start throwing random batteries, alternators, fuel pressure regulators, and whatever else the next guy comes up with at it.
Good advice.
Post by: Woodchuck on November 21, 2013, 06:49:54 AM
Post by: coachcw on November 21, 2013, 07:02:30 AM
Post by: Slimdog350 on November 21, 2013, 08:05:06 AM
You need to check each individual cell on the battery. Load testing won't show a bad cell. To check the alt Wth truck running take pos battery cable off. Load alt by turning on all electronics. If it dies, alt is bad.It makes no sense to test each individual cell. If you load test a battery and it has a bad cell in it it will fail. The load tester will show your surface voltage. When you load the battery to half your cold cranking amps if it's bad the voltage will fall and so will the amps. Each cell should have 2 volts in it not amps. I agree with jackelope. Test first and replace after. It can get expensive throwing parts at something. Check your connections, cables, battery, alternator, etc.
I think each cell should read 2 amps
Post by: jackelope on November 21, 2013, 08:10:51 AM
:dunno:
Post by: coachcw on November 21, 2013, 08:17:31 AM
Post by: BNAElkhntr on November 21, 2013, 08:27:52 AM
Okay, I checked the voltage, it's 12.3 not running and 14.97 while running.Sounds Like Alterator Is putting out fine 12.3 is a dead cell
Post by: Kittman on November 21, 2013, 11:48:30 AM
What jackelope said first.
My gut says your 6 year old battery has had possibly a bad cell in it and now you have lost another cell or more. Chevy's have a number of computers to run various aspects of the truck. If they are not getting the proper voltage then this may cause your run ability issues too.
What 6x6 says-
Given the age, suspect battery is on the way out with anything below 12.5 volts at any temperature. Low voltages could also be causing issues with maintaining operation of fuel system relays as others have mentioned in this post. There should be check engine lights illuminating already, get a code reader on it when you can.
Post by: bobcat on November 21, 2013, 11:54:58 AM
Post by: Kittman on November 21, 2013, 12:19:01 PM
Post by: Curly on November 21, 2013, 12:38:25 PM
It is not the alternator since a new one was installed and that didn't change anything.
That noise you hear sometimes coming from the front when slowing down could be a wire rubbing on something when you are braking. My guess is that wire has finally worn thru and is shorting out on the frame or whatever.
I suggest jacking up the truck and crawling under it and follow the battery wires and check all the other wires to see if anything looks funny. :twocents:
Post by: coachcw on November 21, 2013, 05:39:32 PM
My guess is that reply #1 hit the nail on the head.no battery leeds under car that supply power and the grounds are on the left side of block . it may have ran bad with the new alternator due to a lean drivibillity problem and he never got to the charging issue . the new alternator may have fixed that problem and then they took it back off. :dunno:
It is not the alternator since a new one was installed and that didn't change anything.
That noise you hear sometimes coming from the front when slowing down could be a wire rubbing on something when you are braking. My guess is that wire has finally worn thru and is shorting out on the frame or whatever.
I suggest jacking up the truck and crawling under it and follow the battery wires and check all the other wires to see if anything looks funny. :twocents:
Post by: 6x6in6 on November 21, 2013, 06:42:59 PM
With that said, I'm fortunate to have a sweet battery tester sitting in a cabinet right around the corner. When a battery has a bad cell, it tells me.I know you service advisers have to keep the customers from interacting with the techs as much as possible, butt geez, you don't have to keep them in the cabinet for gosh sakes.
:dunno:
:chuckle:
Post by: bobcat on November 22, 2013, 05:32:03 PM
Weird thing is I figured that the truck needed to be driven or at least started and run for a while, in order for any codes to come up, since the battery had been disconnected. So I started it up and it was running just like normal. Took it for a drive and everything was fine. Battery light didn't come on either. Drove 3 or 4 miles.
I guess first thing I'll do in the morning is go to NAPA and have the battery tested. Probably will buy a new battery regardless of if it's bad or not.
Post by: jackelope on November 22, 2013, 05:36:55 PM
Post by: jackelope on November 22, 2013, 05:38:44 PM
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Post by: bobcat on November 22, 2013, 05:47:57 PM
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Post by: bobcat on December 16, 2013, 08:48:10 AM
no battery leeds under car that supply power and the grounds are on the left side of block . it may have ran bad with the new alternator due to a lean drivibillity problem and he never got to the charging issue . the new alternator may have fixed that problem and then they took it back off. :dunno:
Well here's an update finally on the issue I had with my truck. I hadn't had a chance to work on it since I was hunting the late archery elk season every chance I got. I was using my Bronco so the truck could wait. I did take the battery out and had it tested at NAPA, don't recall if I already posted that.
But anyway, Coach was right on with his post. It was a bad alternator. I got a new alternator at NAPA and installed it, the truck is now running fine. Drove it about 100 miles yesterday with no issues.
What was weird to me is that the alternator worked intermittently. I could get in the truck and drive it a few miles, and the gauge showed it was charging normally. The next day, start the truck, and it's not working. Which is what made me think it was something other than the alternator. I always thought an alternator would either work, or not work.
I'm happy it was less than $200 to fix. ($146 for alternator and $29 for new belt)
Post by: bloodhound on December 16, 2013, 09:46:49 AM
Post by: whacker1 on December 16, 2013, 09:50:29 AM
no battery leeds under car that supply power and the grounds are on the left side of block . it may have ran bad with the new alternator due to a lean drivibillity problem and he never got to the charging issue . the new alternator may have fixed that problem and then they took it back off. :dunno:
Well here's an update finally on the issue I had with my truck. I hadn't had a chance to work on it since I was hunting the late archery elk season every chance I got. I was using my Bronco so the truck could wait. I did take the battery out and had it tested at NAPA, don't recall if I already posted that.
But anyway, Coach was right on with his post. It was a bad alternator. I got a new alternator at NAPA and installed it, the truck is now running fine. Drove it about 100 miles yesterday with no issues.
What was weird to me is that the alternator worked intermittently. I could get in the truck and drive it a few miles, and the gauge showed it was charging normally. The next day, start the truck, and it's not working. Which is what made me think it was something other than the alternator. I always thought an alternator would either work, or not work.
I'm happy it was less than $200 to fix. ($146 for alternator and $29 for new belt)
Sometimes when alternators lose bearings the brushes will make contact when lined up correctly and then when they get out of line they won't make contact correctly to charge correctly, which is why you see the intermittent function. When the bearings get worse, it won't work at all and will have a total failure.
Post by: bobcat on December 16, 2013, 09:57:22 AM
knowing that your battery is 6 years old and you just killed it about 3-4 times, i would be thinking about replacing your battery anyway. killing a lead cell cranking battery is extremely hard on them and being six years old if you dont replace it youll be asking for trouble.
Thanks, I will keep that in mind.
I'll try to get by for a while since I have no money!
Post by: bobcat on December 16, 2013, 09:59:31 AM
Sometimes when alternators lose bearings the brushes will make contact when lined up correctly and then when they get out of line they won't make contact correctly to charge correctly, which is why you see the intermittent function. When the bearings get worse, it won't work at all and will have a total failure.
Good to know! Thank you!
Post by: coachcw on December 16, 2013, 10:21:33 AM
Post by: bobcat on December 16, 2013, 10:30:11 AM
The battery is from Costco and I believe it's a 9 year battery.
Post by: coachcw on December 16, 2013, 12:52:19 PM
Post by: bobcat on December 16, 2013, 12:59:06 PM