Post by: Naches Sportsman on November 26, 2013, 05:41:14 PM
Post by: adamR on November 26, 2013, 06:19:58 PM
How big are you?
Post by: tjthebest on November 26, 2013, 06:35:16 PM
Post by: KevinClimbs on November 26, 2013, 07:00:27 PM
-Wheel size: 26" is standard but 29" is becoming more common. Either is fine and I have owned both but would probably opt for 26" as it might save you a little weight.
- Shocks: Get a front shock, your body will thank you over the course of 15 miles. Rock Shox and FOX are high quality brands. A rear shock will make the ride smoother but you will loose some power when climbing even if you tighten the resistance. It will also be heavier and more expensive so it is a trade off. I don't ride a rear shock but it would be nice sometimes.
-Front Chain rings/gearing - Make sure the bike you get is a double or a tipple (2 or 3 front gears). You will want those extra gears when climbing steep stuff. This will typically equate to 16 to 30 speeds depending on the configuration.
-Fit: Go to a bike shop, test ride a bike or three and get them to tell you your size. Mountain bikes are measured in either a S,M,L scale or in inches per the size of the frame. Given your height I would guess you are a size M or L (18"-20") but I am not an expert.
I currently ride a cyclocross bike that is OK on gravel and is fast when it is smooth but sucks on some of the logging roads that are built using larger crushed rock. I used to ride a Kona 29er but it got jacked :-(
Post by: adamR on November 26, 2013, 07:05:25 PM
Post by: JPhelps on November 26, 2013, 07:14:32 PM
In my opinion disc brakes and a hardtail are better for riding logging roads. Front suspension with lockout is a nice option.
For $500 you can get a very good bike. By spending more money you will get better derailers, brakes and other components.
Post by: jnevs23 on November 26, 2013, 08:32:22 PM
Post by: Stickerbush on November 26, 2013, 09:05:53 PM
Post by: kglacken on November 26, 2013, 09:16:23 PM
Post by: swanny on November 28, 2013, 09:18:32 AM
Chances are you won't have to worry about the front chai rings, only high end bikes will have a singl ring on the front.
For the front suspension, anything less than 100mm will be fine for logging roads. It will suck up any bumps you encounter just fine for logging roads. Depending on when you are looking to buy I may be selling y bike in the spring so I can upgrade to a full suspension rig. It's a 2012 GT Karakoram. It's a great bike and in good shape, I just want a higher end bikes for the trails I ride.
Post by: SCRUBS on November 28, 2013, 09:36:38 AM
I agree with all the advice so far but in my opinion the most important part is the spare tube, chain, and tools to fix them! Nothing worse than pushing a $500 bike down the logging road..... trust me :chuckle:
Best advice in this thread, nothing trumps experience :chuckle:
Post by: Bullkllr on November 28, 2013, 10:03:46 AM
I agree with all the advice so far but in my opinion the most important part is the spare tube, chain, and tools to fix them! Nothing worse than pushing a $500 bike down the logging road..... trust me :chuckle:
Best advice in this thread, nothing trumps experience :chuckle:
Yes.
Am I the only one who finds the whole bike marketing scenario somewhat frustrating?
Granted, I've never thrown in for a truly high end bike- cost is rather scarey. So I've gone with what I consider mid-range 3-500$ models (Giant, Trek, Nishiki so far). Also have used a couple sub-100$ cheapies (Schwinn, Raleigh), that I've gotten about the same use out of.
Maintenance on all of them costs the same. You need to be able to do-it yourself or it is quite expensive (bike shop hourly is more than my auto mechanic) and you are soon better off buying a new bike. Replacement parts are high at shops too. It's clear to me as soon as you walk in the door they want to sell you a new bike.
I've gotten to the point where I do the basic maintenance on my own-and I'm getting better- but if something really goes wrong- (crank, derailer, etc) I figure I better just get a new bike.
Post by: swanny on November 28, 2013, 07:42:32 PM
I agree with all the advice so far but in my opinion the most important part is the spare tube, chain, and tools to fix them! Nothing worse than pushing a $500 bike down the logging road..... trust me :chuckle:
Best advice in this thread, nothing trumps experience :chuckle:
Yes.
Am I the only one who finds the whole bike marketing scenario somewhat frustrating?
Granted, I've never thrown in for a truly high end bike- cost is rather scarey. So I've gone with what I consider mid-range 3-500$ models (Giant, Trek, Nishiki so far). Also have used a couple sub-100$ cheapies (Schwinn, Raleigh), that I've gotten about the same use out of.
Maintenance on all of them costs the same. You need to be able to do-it yourself or it is quite expensive (bike shop hourly is more than my auto mechanic) and you are soon better off buying a new bike. Replacement parts are high at shops too. It's clear to me as soon as you walk in the door they want to sell you a new bike.
I've gotten to the point where I do the basic maintenance on my own-and I'm getting better- but if something really goes wrong- (crank, derailer, etc) I figure I better just get a new bike.
You get what you pay for. Quality and reliable parts cost money, there is a reason why a $100 bike is a $100 bike. Also understanding how the bike works and how to shift is huge. Saves a ton of headaches. Lastly, making sure to care for your bike will go a long ways. Store it inside out of the elements, clean it up after each use, and lube it up after every few rides will make components last much longer and that yearly tuneup won't hurt so much.
Post by: Westside88 on November 28, 2013, 08:11:42 PM
Post by: GEARHEAD on November 30, 2013, 07:18:26 PM