Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: 762Armo on December 08, 2013, 10:26:20 PM
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The for-end has a crack on it. I'm not sure what the best way to fix it is. I was thinking of using some sort of epoxy, or wood glue, but would like to hear some other opinions.
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more pics
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I would probably go with the epoxy first with it in a clamp. Then use some of the corrugated wood fasteners from the inside. Get those filed down/sanded flush. Finally use something like accraglass or epoxy over the fasteners to bed the forend.
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I am guessing that you are trying to not buy a new part.
One thing I would do is try to figure out why it cracked to begin with. This may help it not occur again in the future.
Not sure what that part is off of, but I would get a good grade of wood glue. Try to open the crack slightly and spread the wood glue through out the crack and clamp it tight.
If there is a lot of stress on this piece and the repair just won't hold, assuming that you can't get a replacement, I would duplicate it out of a new piece of wood.
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First your going to need to cut a block of wood to fit the upper opening of the forend so when you clamp it you don't sqeeze the top together. Then spread the crack a little(I use a sewing needle) then with a piece of thread work the epoxy all the way through the crack pulling the thread back and forth like you were sawing with the thread. I clamp things with cheap electricians tap by wrapping the forend and just stretching it tight when I go over the crack. leave it set for a couple of days. Then I would hog out about a 1/16th " over the length of the crack and epoxy in glass cloth over the crack again leave it set a couple of days and inlet the forend iron into the epoxy, It needs to be a VERY good fit , nothing snug, loose or high. Patience and a lot of blacking to fit it.
I was able to repair this back to shooting condition, it took a long time making and gluing many small pieces, but if you have patience you can do it. Both sides were broken like this.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy222%2FBrowndaug%2FDrillingstockrepair002_zps2433f41e.jpg&hash=946b72568e875535c4e49502975a29e14bb7e192) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Browndaug/media/Drillingstockrepair002_zps2433f41e.jpg.html)
Repaired, you can see the dull spot above the lock where the new wood went in, just waiting for the shop to warm up before I start to refinish it.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy222%2FBrowndaug%2FDrillingfixed001_zps9d4483cb.jpg&hash=9f9cfbf6a1303956bb2ec3e93b6d0ade547c2450) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Browndaug/media/Drillingfixed001_zps9d4483cb.jpg.html)
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I have had good luck using an air compressor to "blow" glue into cracks like that, you will need to spread it a wee bit first, (be careful) with the spreading. (after you get the crack opened just a bit lay a bead of tite bond over it and blow it in. I would do it on each side of the crack)
Another thing I might do and it would add a little strength to the repair is to glue a dowel across the grain near the screw hole. You could use the same wood or use a contrasting color. If you drill it straight so the sides are even it wouldn't look too bad.
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3m makes a universal adhesive used in the auto body industry that works great on wood. is sandable & clear, very strong. used it on a butt stock where it attatches to the housing & its held for several years. might also steak the end with a heavy staple of some sort or use one of those wood discs glued into the end.
good luck!
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:) I like the clean glue and clamp ideas above. Before I did that, I would drill small holes crosswise to the grain, one on the short side of the hole, and two on the long side. Prior to these holes yolu need small brass dowl pins, drill the hole slightly smaller than thier diameter. (A SLIGHT FRICTION FIT) coat them with glue, press them into the holes, glue and clamp, CAREFULLY, watching the alignment, grain, etc.
finish the ends of the pins to choice and seal the wood.
I saw a bolt rifle completely broken thru at teh pistol grip fixed this way 30 years ago, it is still a shooter!
Carl
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you will also need to relieve the back of the fore end where it had too much contact. That's what caused the split.
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Thanks for the all responses guys!! :tup:
Which brand of glue or epoxy do you guys recommend?
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What kind of gun is this for and how valuable is it (don't need an actual answer but ask yourself)? If it is a everyday field gun the DIY advice is fine but if it is a nice grade gun or an older collectible gun you might want to have a stock specialist fix it.
If it is the later Hill Rod and Gun in Bozeman does great work.
http://www.hillrodandgun.com/ (http://www.hillrodandgun.com/)
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personally id go with the 3m adhesive as it has worked for me. spendy but if you can find someone that uses the stuff & has some on hand with the gun to dispence it its well worth it. or try a reputable b-shop & see if you can work it out to have them glue it when they are using the product. extremely fast so you must be ready.
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I'd use wood glue for the crack, and use saw dust from sanding the area with the glue and it will hide your repair.
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Use a dremel with appropriate bit and v out the inside a little past the end of the crack. Use the epoxy of you choice compatible with wood. Clamp it tight. You may need to remove a little wood at the stress point to eliminate the issue. Probably will be stronger than original.
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I used gorrilla wood glue on my browning,dropped the forend whil off and chinked a piece off of it, dampend both pieces,glued,clamped and you really have to look to see the repair.For getting the glue in your crack I'd say a small needle and syringe from the feed store and the dentalfloss smearing device.
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Gorilla wood glue. Carefully open up the crack enough to get the glue into it with a tiny flat tip screw driver or the like, then clamp it. Wipe off the excess. Clean up the rest after it dries with a razor knife, file and/or sandpaper. Put some stain on it and go shoot.
