Post by: Craig on December 16, 2013, 03:48:37 PM
How long should they last? The new ones only have 30,000 -40,000 miles on them. the truck is lifted and aftermarket tires 35x12.50x20
$870 just for the labor :yike: to replace them.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv411%2Ftruck1%2Ftire2.jpg&hash=9d5e4ac75361c8eb1c7c254acf05eb79a6f0e92b) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/truck1/media/tire2.jpg.html)
Post by: lewy on December 16, 2013, 03:53:22 PM
Post by: 6x6in6 on December 16, 2013, 03:55:04 PM
My '05 is on set 3 plus the lower on the RF is #4. 125k on the ticker
My '07 is on set #2. The originals actually made it 65k. 10k now on the new ones.
Buy good joints.
XRF or if you are feeling really rich, Carli joints.
Both mine are now running XRF's
Post by: dewandgin on December 16, 2013, 03:56:18 PM
Post by: shoot-em-dead on December 16, 2013, 04:00:07 PM
Post by: coachcw on December 16, 2013, 04:03:12 PM
Post by: whacker1 on December 16, 2013, 04:03:24 PM
I have had 97-03 version of the F150 and they are fairly notorious for eating ball joints. I replace them with every set of new tires as a normal trend, which equates to 50kish range. I get 10k more miles out of them if they have fresh ball joints for the life of the tire.
Post by: gasman on December 16, 2013, 05:00:46 PM
Post by: Rick on December 16, 2013, 06:54:07 PM
Post by: Heredoggydoggy on December 16, 2013, 07:22:00 PM
Post by: DRobnsn on December 16, 2013, 08:21:02 PM
During our conversations he never stated big tires will ruin ball joints. He did say they will make a crap ball joint wear faster but its crap to begin with so your on borrowed time no matter how you slice it. He also said Fords have the same issue, your lucky to get 60k out of a stock set. The material the stockers are made from is just plain junk. It's the material the joint is made from that is the problem not the joint design.
Have you replaced your unit bearings? Or the axle u joints? These don't last on 3rd gen dodges either.
Post by: follow maggie on December 16, 2013, 08:35:34 PM
Post by: jackelope on December 16, 2013, 08:40:00 PM
Post by: jackelope on December 16, 2013, 08:40:25 PM
Post by: coachcw on December 17, 2013, 06:52:03 AM
Post by: DRobnsn on December 17, 2013, 07:25:52 AM
Interesting, I have 150k on my 03 2500 and now have to replace them. Only have on side bad but I will do them all at the same time my self, only cost me parts and some time on a weekend.
A friend of mine has an 05 2500 just had ball joints replaced at 130k all the ball joints were dry and trashed inside as well as the axle u joints. I didn't have time to do them for him so we had super bee do them. He has a really nice ball joint press I want to say its a 30 ton unit, he does everything including Semi's. Anyway he ended up torching out a couple of the joints cause the press wouldn't move them. BTW you may know this but the 98 and newer Dodges the ball joint is pressed into the differential housing and not the steering knuckle this can be a real PIA when doing them at home. If your good with a torch then its no biggie but one slip up and its a whole new problem with the joint being pressed into the housing. :twocents:
Post by: Forks on December 17, 2013, 07:43:49 AM
Greg at Super Bee did my 08 2500 Dodge front end at 50,000. He uses Moog parts and said they have a lifetime warranty. I'm hoping when this front end eats them up, I will only be paying labor to replace them.Interesting, I have 150k on my 03 2500 and now have to replace them. Only have on side bad but I will do them all at the same time my self, only cost me parts and some time on a weekend.
A friend of mine has an 05 2500 just had ball joints replaced at 130k all the ball joints were dry and trashed inside as well as the axle u joints. I didn't have time to do them for him so we had super bee do them. He has a really nice ball joint press I want to say its a 30 ton unit, he does everything including Semi's. Anyway he ended up torching out a couple of the joints cause the press wouldn't move them. BTW you may know this but the 98 and newer Dodges the ball joint is pressed into the differential housing and not the steering knuckle this can be a real PIA when doing them at home. If your good with a torch then its no biggie but one slip up and its a whole new problem with the joint being pressed into the housing. :twocents:
Post by: 6x6in6 on December 17, 2013, 10:02:38 AM
Moog, AAM (the OE joint and their replacement versions), XRF, Carli for example all carry a lifetime warranty for the part. The part is the cheap side. It's the labor that's the killer and no joint manufacturer covers the labor under the part warranty. FYI......Greg at Super Bee did my 08 2500 Dodge front end at 50,000. He uses Moog parts and said they have a lifetime warranty. I'm hoping when this front end eats them up, I will only be paying labor to replace them.Interesting, I have 150k on my 03 2500 and now have to replace them. Only have on side bad but I will do them all at the same time my self, only cost me parts and some time on a weekend.
A friend of mine has an 05 2500 just had ball joints replaced at 130k all the ball joints were dry and trashed inside as well as the axle u joints. I didn't have time to do them for him so we had super bee do them. He has a really nice ball joint press I want to say its a 30 ton unit, he does everything including Semi's. Anyway he ended up torching out a couple of the joints cause the press wouldn't move them. BTW you may know this but the 98 and newer Dodges the ball joint is pressed into the differential housing and not the steering knuckle this can be a real PIA when doing them at home. If your good with a torch then its no biggie but one slip up and its a whole new problem with the joint being pressed into the housing. :twocents:
Post by: TopOfTheFoodChain on December 17, 2013, 10:15:39 AM
Most Ram 2500 4x4's need $1,000 to $1,600 in repair when it's time. Track bar, tie rods, u/l ball joints, pitman arm, axle joints, shocks.....
Just my :twocents:
Post by: netcoyote on December 17, 2013, 10:29:20 AM
Post by: HUNTINCOUPLE on December 17, 2013, 10:50:34 AM
Post by: DRobnsn on December 17, 2013, 11:53:55 AM
Just curious. Do you guys grease your ball joints regularly? Do the replacements have grease fittings? I have had two Dodge 2500s and have not had ball joint problems yet. Both have about 130k miles. If the joints don't have fittings, I use a grease needle and inject grease directly into the joint. Did that on a Dakota that was rumored to have bad ball joints and never had a problem there either after 90k miles. All these rigs had oversize tires (but no lift). Maybe it's the lift that is the major cause of the problem.
The interval I've been told is every oil change, grease everything under the truck that has a zerk fitting. Unless you change your oil every 3k then you may want to do it every other oil change. The good moog's have a grease fitting and the factory's do not hence part of the reason they do not last.
Life time warranty or not I would never put in a replacement that lasted less than 100k back in a truck. Anything less is totally unacceptable for the type of driving even us hunters do. If your running the Dakar or something well I guess they have a good reason to fail but for what we do anything less than a 100k on ball joints is just plain crazy. My 2nd gen Cummins went 185k before the stock ball joints started showing up and down wear only, it only needed a track bar and one unit bearing in that time and nothing else. I was not easy on that truck from off roading to race track 30psi boost 4wd launches with 400+whp and it was lifted with 35's the entire time.
Post by: jackelope on December 17, 2013, 12:08:29 PM
Post by: jackelope on December 17, 2013, 12:28:46 PM
Ball Joint
Replace
Front Suspension
One Side
One 1.9
Does Not Include: Alignment.
Both 2.2
So that translates to 2.2 hours a side to do both BJ's plus alignment. In ritzy, higher priced downtown Bellevue, that'd be $705.95.
Post by: Buckmark on December 17, 2013, 12:34:55 PM
Post by: Forks on December 17, 2013, 12:53:37 PM
Post by: jackelope on December 17, 2013, 12:54:50 PM
I was thinking that 870 for labor alone was a bit high, but i bet you call 3 different dodge dealers and get 3 different prices for labor, along with different time quotes... :twocents:
I'm a "by the book" kinda guy. That book being AllData.
:dunno:
Post by: 6x6in6 on December 17, 2013, 12:57:11 PM
:chuckle:I was thinking that 870 for labor alone was a bit high, but i bet you call 3 different dodge dealers and get 3 different prices for labor, along with different time quotes... :twocents:
I'm a "by the book" kinda guy. That book being AllData.
:dunno:
Post by: Craig on December 17, 2013, 06:49:17 PM
Post by: baker5150 on December 18, 2013, 09:43:27 AM
I did a TON of research on which joints to buy and Carli was always the number 1 recommended part. I think I paid $850 for all 4 of them. Lifetime warranty, rebuildable, and serviceable.
I also found that most shops use Moog, which I found in my research to be terrible joints. Carli also has a write up on their website about what they found when they cut a Moog joint open, but take that for what it is since they also sell replacement joints.
Again, I can't recommend Carli enough. But be prepared to be put on a waiting list to get them, took me 6 weeks to get mine.
Post by: Rick on December 18, 2013, 10:01:05 AM
I used Carli's in my 06 2500. I swapped all of them at the same time. Going on 50,000 miles now and still as tight as new. I did them myself, just had to rent the tool from Napa.
I did a TON of research on which joints to buy and Carli was always the number 1 recommended part. I think I paid $850 for all 4 of them. Lifetime warranty, rebuildable, and serviceable.
I also found that most shops use Moog, which I found in my research to be terrible joints. Carli also has a write up on their website about what they found when they cut a Moog joint open, but take that for what it is since they also sell replacement joints.
Again, I can't recommend Carli enough. But be prepared to be put on a waiting list to get them, took me 6 weeks to get mine.
Lots of dudes complain about crappy Moog joints on the Dodge/Cummins forums.
Post by: pd on December 18, 2013, 10:24:27 AM
I just sold my previous (2004, original owner) F-150 @ 100,000 miles, and I am a few days away from buying a new F-150. I treat my vehicles with TLC--I am willing to bet that my rig is the cleanest, best treated vehicle on the site. Somebody mentioned the minor abuse that hunters give their trucks; mine gets very little abuse (dirt roads excepted).
Question: Do I need to worry about ball joints with 2013 or 2014 F-150s? I would put regular lube top-ups on the maintenance list, but did not know F-150s had zerk ports.
Post by: jackelope on December 18, 2013, 10:28:39 AM
I used Carli's in my 06 2500. I swapped all of them at the same time. Going on 50,000 miles now and still as tight as new. I did them myself, just had to rent the tool from Napa.
I did a TON of research on which joints to buy and Carli was always the number 1 recommended part. I think I paid $850 for all 4 of them. Lifetime warranty, rebuildable, and serviceable.
I also found that most shops use Moog, which I found in my research to be terrible joints. Carli also has a write up on their website about what they found when they cut a Moog joint open, but take that for what it is since they also sell replacement joints.
Again, I can't recommend Carli enough. But be prepared to be put on a waiting list to get them, took me 6 weeks to get mine.
Lots of dudes complain about crappy Moog joints on the Dodge/Cummins forums.
I think lots of dudes use Moog's because that's what the aftermarket parts houses sell. When someone says...hey, can you put some in with zerks, they go and get some Moog's. That's my guess.
Post by: baker5150 on December 18, 2013, 02:14:41 PM
I used Carli's in my 06 2500. I swapped all of them at the same time. Going on 50,000 miles now and still as tight as new. I did them myself, just had to rent the tool from Napa.
I did a TON of research on which joints to buy and Carli was always the number 1 recommended part. I think I paid $850 for all 4 of them. Lifetime warranty, rebuildable, and serviceable.
I also found that most shops use Moog, which I found in my research to be terrible joints. Carli also has a write up on their website about what they found when they cut a Moog joint open, but take that for what it is since they also sell replacement joints.
Again, I can't recommend Carli enough. But be prepared to be put on a waiting list to get them, took me 6 weeks to get mine.
Lots of dudes complain about crappy Moog joints on the Dodge/Cummins forums.
I think lots of dudes use Moog's because that's what the aftermarket parts houses sell. When someone says...hey, can you put some in with zerks, they go and get some Moog's. That's my guess.
Moog's seem to be the most common aftermarket joints I found. Most parts houses have them on the shelf.
I think a lot of guys just buy whatever the parts house gives them.
Post by: 6x6in6 on January 23, 2014, 09:17:09 AM
Welcome to owning a Dodge.
My '05 is on set 3 plus the lower on the RF is #4. 125k on the ticker
My '07 is on set #2. The originals actually made it 65k. 10k now on the new ones.
Buy good joints.
XRF or if you are feeling really rich, Carli joints.
Both mine are now running XRF's
Made it a whopping 17k on this set of upper ball joints.
Did both axle shaft joints at the same time. They are fried again too.
So much for buying good ball joints and axle shaft joints.
:bash:
Post by: fishngamereaper on January 23, 2014, 09:26:30 AM
Post by: 6x6in6 on January 23, 2014, 09:38:51 AM
I would be in no mood for a front end failure at 23,000 lbs with the camper and loaded horse trailer along for the ride.
No lift here, stock tires and suspension with training wheels on the rear axle.
Post by: Alchase on January 23, 2014, 12:24:04 PM
You guys are scaring me with this thread. Ignorance truly is bliss: I had no idea that I needed to worry about ball joints.
I just sold my previous (2004, original owner) F-150 @ 100,000 miles, and I am a few days away from buying a new F-150. I treat my vehicles with TLC--I am willing to bet that my rig is the cleanest, best treated vehicle on the site. Somebody mentioned the minor abuse that hunters give their trucks; mine gets very little abuse (dirt roads excepted).
Question: Do I need to worry about ball joints with 2013 or 2014 F-150s? I would put regular lube top-ups on the maintenance list, but did not know F-150s had zerk ports.
No worries!
Do not fix what is not broken :tup:
If you have no indication of bad ball joints, and the boots look good, no need to worry.
Post by: hunterrcc on January 24, 2014, 12:08:49 AM
Post by: Come Get Some on January 24, 2014, 05:07:35 PM
Post by: Special T on February 24, 2014, 05:36:00 PM
Post by: JKEEN33 on February 24, 2014, 06:15:23 PM
Post by: 6x6in6 on February 24, 2014, 07:57:08 PM
I thought some one made a Dodge geometry correction kit for the 3rd gen 4x4? am i wrong?Not for balls and axle joints.
You can get the '09 steering upgrade kit that helps with the wandering steering issue and reduces the death wobble chances.
My '07 has the upgrade steering kit and it drives much better than the OE steering did.
My '05 still has the OE steering but as soon as the tie rod ends show some play, it will get the upgrade kit.
Just make sure you buy the kit with at least the last 2 letters in the part number being an AH or later. AA, AE, and AF parts had failures and are covered under a recall and people still sell them on the 'net.
The AA's thru AF's had low speed turning bind on the drivers side tie rod end and would actually shear the stud off. My '07 originally had an AE kit installed. Below is a picture of the sheared off stud that happened to me in a parking lot 3 years ago.
Here's an AH for example:
http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-5062-mopar-09-steering-upgrade-kit-for-03-08-25003500.aspx (http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-5062-mopar-09-steering-upgrade-kit-for-03-08-25003500.aspx)
Post by: 6x6in6 on February 24, 2014, 07:58:42 PM
Post by: jackelope on February 24, 2014, 08:02:36 PM
Post by: Skyvalhunter on February 24, 2014, 08:08:37 PM
Post by: 6x6in6 on February 24, 2014, 08:15:36 PM
Heard about a new recall today on the steering linkage for you Dodge guys. One member on here lost steering over the weekend. Made a phone call for him. N62 is the new recall. My former coworker at the Dodge dealer says they're getting towed in left and right with broken tie rods.
Interesting, thanks for the heads up! :)
N62 details:
http://www.dodge.com/universal/webselfservice/pdf/N62.pdf (http://www.dodge.com/universal/webselfservice/pdf/N62.pdf)
Post by: jackelope on February 24, 2014, 08:30:20 PM
Post by: 6x6in6 on February 24, 2014, 08:39:10 PM
Based on the years this one covers, I wonder if this is a replacement tie rod end for the replacement's replacement steering kit.
Did I confuse you? :chuckle:
Post by: jackelope on February 24, 2014, 09:02:21 PM
http://www.dodge.com/universal/webselfservice/pdf/H46.pdf (http://www.dodge.com/universal/webselfservice/pdf/H46.pdf)
Post by: 6x6in6 on February 24, 2014, 09:05:32 PM
Post by: jackelope on February 24, 2014, 09:08:06 PM
Post by: MuleySniper on February 25, 2014, 09:28:09 AM
Post by: logger on March 06, 2014, 01:38:59 PM
Heard about a new recall today on the steering linkage for you Dodge guys. One member on here lost steering over the weekend. Made a phone call for him. N62 is the new recall. My former coworker at the Dodge dealer says they're getting towed in left and right with broken tie rods.I just had to replace mine 30 miles in off the blacktop! had a logtruck bring me a new one and a pickle fork, replaced it with a crescent wrench and a 5lb. ax. was a helluva ride for minute!
Post by: Mudman on March 06, 2014, 02:14:34 PM
Post by: 6x6in6 on March 06, 2014, 10:37:03 PM
My research shows xrf joints as best for money. Also the carli seem the best overall. Napa hd ok and oem and moog total crap for dodge. The raybestos brand is looking real good as well but still reading on them. My 05 needs joints, 109k lifted. How do you tell if steering is stock and recalled or upgraded? I have 6" lift stabilizer and BD steering brace now. Not sure if I need recall performed?No, your steering upgrades cover what is on the recall.
I thought XRF's were the way to go too until I got a whopping 17,000 miles out of the lowers. This is on a stock ride height dually.
It's just sitting until I decide what the next flavor of the year joint goes in. Can't quite stomach the price of Carli's. I may just go back to the OE AAM's. I got the most miles/years out of them, barely.
Post by: DRobnsn on March 07, 2014, 01:16:37 PM
My research shows xrf joints as best for money. Also the carli seem the best overall. Napa hd ok and oem and moog total crap for dodge. The raybestos brand is looking real good as well but still reading on them. My 05 needs joints, 109k lifted. How do you tell if steering is stock and recalled or upgraded? I have 6" lift stabilizer and BD steering brace now. Not sure if I need recall performed?No, your steering upgrades cover what is on the recall.
I thought XRF's were the way to go too until I got a whopping 17,000 miles out of the lowers. This is on a stock ride height dually.
It's just sitting until I decide what the next flavor of the year joint goes in. Can't quite stomach the price of Carli's. I may just go back to the OE AAM's. I got the most miles/years out of them, barely.
Are you sure he doesn't need the update? From what I see the Tie rod ends and links are the what the recall fixes, not the stabilizer or steering box.
Post by: jackelope on March 07, 2014, 01:27:55 PM
Post by: jackelope on March 07, 2014, 02:05:04 PM
Post by: Forks on March 07, 2014, 03:59:31 PM
My truck is a shwab now. Had to have it towed yesterday after my steering rod end broke in a parking lot. 66k on my 07 diesel Ram. I did new axle U joints last summer. Put in Spicers. I didn't have hardly any noticeable movement in my outer ball joints. I'm also having the other tie rod bushings replaced since I have it in the shop. I lifted it a 6" a week after I bought it new and turn 37's so I knew parts would wear faster but the breaking steering rod was a little sketchy and I will be contacting Chrysler for reimbursement.Let us know how the reimbursement goes, I was told by Chrysler they would only send a check if was done by an authorized dealer. I sent them receipts for driver and passenger tie rod ends with no luck. I broke the passenger one but the recall covers the drivers side. :bash:
Post by: Mudman on March 07, 2014, 10:09:49 PM
The setup that needs to be repaired looks like this:Uh Oh! My truck has the u clamps. Is that 2 recalls I need to deal with?
Post by: MuleySniper on March 08, 2014, 08:17:09 AM
My truck is a shwab now. Had to have it towed yesterday after my steering rod end broke in a parking lot. 66k on my 07 diesel Ram. I did new axle U joints last summer. Put in Spicers. I didn't have hardly any noticeable movement in my outer ball joints. I'm also having the other tie rod bushings replaced since I have it in the shop. I lifted it a 6" a week after I bought it new and turn 37's so I knew parts would wear faster but the breaking steering rod was a little sketchy and I will be contacting Chrysler for reimbursement.Let us know how the reimbursement goes, I was told by Chrysler they would only send a check if was done by an authorized dealer. I sent them receipts for driver and passenger tie rod ends with no luck. I broke the passenger one but the recall covers the drivers side. :bash:
Typical corporate company response... They would have considered it, and I use that term lightly IF it would have been replaced with mopar parts. Second since it wasn't an authorized dealer doing the repair they wouldn't cover labor, the whopping $17 Shwab charged me. I may now just take it to the dealer since it does qualify for the recall and tell them I want it replaced with genuine mopar parts. I wonder how they would treat me?