Post by: raydog on December 25, 2013, 12:03:48 PM
Post by: dreamunelk on December 25, 2013, 12:48:06 PM
Post by: raydog on December 27, 2013, 08:32:24 AM
Post by: boneaddict on December 27, 2013, 09:10:54 AM
Welcome to a world of FUN
Post by: Annette on December 27, 2013, 09:16:27 AM
Post by: raydog on December 27, 2013, 09:20:01 AM
Post by: raydog on December 27, 2013, 09:21:10 AM
Hi Ray, I like the Magnus Stinger cut on impact 125 gr. They fly as good or better than any 2 blade and will hit the same as your field points. Remember to find your accuracy range and stay with in if when hunting . Wooden arrows can be had from Joe Reed, Eufaula Hts. Longview WA. and plastic vanes won't shoot off the shelf of the longbow. Have fun!So I would need fleathered vanes?
Post by: boneaddict on December 27, 2013, 11:38:38 AM
Post by: boneaddict on December 27, 2013, 11:42:27 AM
http://www.kustomkingarchery.com/Gold-Tip-Traditional-Carbon-Arrows-per-1_2-doz/productinfo/7202/ (http://www.kustomkingarchery.com/Gold-Tip-Traditional-Carbon-Arrows-per-1_2-doz/productinfo/7202/)
probably in the spine xx55 or xx75 depending on what your bow is. My guess would be 55s
I think the last dozen I got at grizzly archery here in Yakima were 120.00 so this is a pretty decent price. I use 3 fletchings and usually longer.
Post by: raydog on December 27, 2013, 12:04:21 PM
Post by: Longbowz on December 31, 2013, 10:19:31 PM
Enjoy! :)
Post by: MLBowhunting on January 01, 2014, 10:27:03 AM
Post by: dreamunelk on January 01, 2014, 10:54:07 AM
As stated before shooting traditional is fun and very addicting.
Post by: rbinhood on January 01, 2014, 11:52:51 AM
2. Broadheads--I like Zwickey Black Diamonds in 2 blade 125 grain. They are tough, sharpen easily, and don't cost a fortune.
3. Get G. Fred Asbel's book on instinctive shooting, read it, practice the various methods and see what works best for you.
4. Arrows- Get the best straight, matched arrows you can afford. All other things equal, nothing will affect your accuracy like the quality of your arrows. Generally, longbows need a bit softer spined arrow so the arrow flexes enough to clear the bow face upon release, with minimal contact. Ask the bow maker what they suggest. Many things affect spine, such as arrow length, diameter and the weight of the tip. A friend starts with a 30" arrow and the tips he will be using, then cuts 1/2" off the arrow at a time to find the best arrow flight. You can get arrows with weight forward, footed shafts, and parallel or tapered. See what shoots best out of your bow.
Arrow wood- Good Port Orford cedar can make good arrows, but I found cedar did not hold up well, often breaking right behind the tip. If you are in Washington, I would look at Sitka Spruce of Douglas Fir, both of which are tough and can be made into great arrows. Google wood arrow shaft manufacturers and you will have many options.
5. Practice, practice, practice, and make sure you consistently do the same thing every time you draw and release an arrow. Most people cannot put the bow away for a week and pick it up a week later and immediately shoot as well as when they put the bow down. The experts shoot daily, and often practice even when they are hunting, during the course of the day.
6. Get a spare Flemmish twist string and set it up with a knock point and silencers, just like the one on the bow. Nothing will ruin a hunt faster than a broken string. Good luck and have fun.
Post by: raydog on January 01, 2014, 12:12:53 PM
Post by: Snapshot on January 01, 2014, 07:48:57 PM
To expound on dreamunelk's tip that you should lay it flat when not in use: the thing to absolutely avoid is standing it in a corner because that will put stress on the lower limb. Don't think it has to take up floor space; it can lay flat on a couple of dowels that are about 2-1/2 feet apart, or it can hang from a single peg by use of a string keeper or by slipping the peg between the belly of the upper limb and the bowstring (yes, unstrung).
Find a copy of 'Hunting with the Bow and Arrow' by Saxton Pope if you want the most straightforward introduction to archery that I've ever read. It is nearly a century old but little has changed.
Selfbows will need oil rubbed on them once or twice a year depending on how much weather they get subjected to. Longbows with fiberglass on the belly and back with a hard finish topcoat on them only need to wiped down with a damp cloth from time to time. Some people wax their bows to give the finish a little added protection.
Have fun!
Post by: scotsman on January 02, 2014, 04:49:30 PM
I'm one of the dyed -in - the - wool traditional shooters from Kitsap Bowhunters... We have a real nice range near Belfair. Send me a PM and I'll be glad to set up a time to meet there. I have done a lot of coaching / tuning for longbow and recurve archers.....A little mentoring can shave a couple of years off the learning process!
Dave R.