Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: TheHunt on December 28, 2013, 05:30:38 PM
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My son looked into buy verses build and it looks cheaper to buy one out right then to build? Crazy... I guess when you buy in bulk you can put together those rifles pretty cheap.
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Youn can peice one together for allot cheaper if you aren't in a rush
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My son looked into buy verses build and it looks cheaper to buy one out right then to build? Crazy... I guess when you buy in bulk you can put together those rifles pretty cheap.
Right now, you can buy an AR cheaper than you can build one, but you might not get exactly what you want. Either way, it ain't cheap! :twocents:
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I got a aero precision stripped AR lower for Christmas and a DPMS lower receiver parts kit. When i was doing my research it is possible to buy a complete a little cheaper but i wanted the hands on experience of building one and the intimate knowledge of the weapon so for me it was worth a little extra for the education.
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Right now if you do build an AR cheaper than just buying one, its likely the parts aren't going to be high quality. I also tell everyone that if they are ever going to sell it,
buy one from a known maker as "home builds" tend to be a tough sell.
I got a aero precision stripped AR lower for Christmas and a DPMS lower receiver parts kit. When i was doing my research it is possible to buy a complete a little cheaper but i wanted the hands on experience of building one and the intimate knowledge of the weapon so for me it was worth a little extra for the education.
That's a great reason to build one, its just fun.
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Yes, being a modular gun, they are easy and fun to build. Like I say, I have 5 AR's, and only ONE is a .223...
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I have all my parts in a box, just got my last piece a couple days ago (an A2 Buffer spacer) just waiting on my coworker to have some free time to help guide me through the build, its looking like the last few weekends of January. Cant wait to build it! I started buying all the parts about 9 months ago, that was, its an easy way to pay for a whole rifle over an extended period of time rather than putting one on layaway!
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If you just want the best price on a AR by all means just go purchase one. There are so many different companies/ manufacturers producing parts for the AR and in that some specialize in different aspects of it. Such as lowers, uppers, handguards, barrels, triggers etc. I build my AR's to bring together the parts from assorted manufacturers I prefer. A complete rifle that one couldn't just purchase outright. Well, one could.
Companies like RainierArms and such will take a build sheet you write up, assemble the rifle and ship it. Great company by the way(RainierArms). :tup:
One would be hard pressed to put together a standard AR cheaper than purchasing one out right. By the time you find the parts, order them, pay the shipping fees and assemble it. A 700.00 AR at the counter and out the door looks fairly attractive. Considering the time and money to piece it together. My time is worth something to me
The base of a AR is the barrel, I can't say it enough! The rest is all mass manufactured to a base line spec and or Mil-Spec. What's the point of assembling a AR if your going to frost it with a crap cheap barrel, then feed it the cheapest ammo possible. Cracks me up!
On the other hand there is nothing wrong with that if that's your intent, just don't snivel when it's not shooting 1/2 moa. Most of us that build AR's have pieced together several here and there for as cheap as possible just to shoot the crap out of them. A volume, hose a junk pile down thing. Great therapy! :tup:
Every once and a while one of them will shoot. :o
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Many $600 rifle out there. Hard to build for much less for the average joe.probably cheaper to buy this way, then customize as you see fit
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I glanced quickly at all the AR's at WalMart a while back, some popular brands, and some obscure brands, but very good prices! And provided the parts aren't pinned or LocTited together, anything can easily be changed later on.
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True, completed AR's are competitively priced, but for those that enjoy the "tinkering" aspect of firearms building your own is still the cheaper route.
Right now you can get a parts kit that includes everything except the stripped lower from Del-ton for $485 + shipping. They have many configurations to choose from and the Uppers come already assembled.
Then pick up a stripped lower (around here Surplus Ammo and Arms has them for $89.) An hour or so of yer time with simple shop tools and yer done.
I respectably disagree with the comment that kit AR's are hard to sell. After Sandy Hook I could have whittled a 2x6 into the shape of an AR and sold it for $1000.
Yer milage may vary,
Lee
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"I respectably disagree with the comment that kit AR's are hard to sell. After Sandy Hook I could have whittled a 2x6 into the shape of an AR and sold it for $1000."
I agree and it will happen again, some of us made a killing with factory AR's and spare parts. People came to me and were offering me 4 times what I had paid for AR's. You hear all these people sniveling about price gouging. Hahaha! When you have guys calling and saying they will hand you 3K for AR's you paid 800.00 for a guy sells some of the surplus in the safe.
Us guys that had been through the Clinton ordeal, saw it coming a long way out and were Hoarding complete AR's, uppers, lowers and parts kits. Looking forward to the next "Scare".
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Here s build related question... What parts are necessary to build a LH AR? Do you need a whole upper or just certain parts. Any suppliers of the uppers or LH kits?
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There is a dealer near me selling them for $550. I think they assemble them at the store. Not sure what they use or how good they are. I just borrowed my brothers DPMS to see if I would shoot it and like it. Still on the fence on wanting one.
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Here s build related question... What parts are necessary to build a LH AR? Do you need a whole upper or just certain parts. Any suppliers of the uppers or LH kits?
I believe you just need a LH upper and bolt (or BCG)
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I respectably disagree with the comment that kit AR's are hard to sell. After Sandy Hook I could have whittled a 2x6 into the shape of an AR and sold it for $1000.
Yer milage may vary,
Lee
Ya that was after Sandy hook, you could sell an AR15 airsoft gun for $1000 :) Try selling a parts/ frankengun AR right now right now, they don't sell OR the seller takes a HUGE hit in the pocket.
I don't have anything against parts guns specifically, half of my hoard I assembled, its just the way it is.
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I respectably disagree with the comment that kit AR's are hard to sell. After Sandy Hook I could have whittled a 2x6 into the shape of an AR and sold it for $1000.
Yer milage may vary,
Lee
Ya that was after Sandy hook, you could sell an AR15 airsoft gun for $1000 :) Try selling a parts/ frankengun AR right now right now, they don't sell OR the seller takes a HUGE hit in the pocket.
I don't have anything against parts guns specifically, half of my hoard I assembled, its just the way it is.
agreed :yeah:
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A friend of mine who is left handed bought a left handed AR a year or so ago. After a while, I asked him how that left handed AR was shooting, and he told me he sold it. I asked him why, and he said: "I found out that I didn't really care which side the empties came out of." :chuckle:
For a long time, Stag was the only one that made left handed AR's. Now I see in the Rock River catalog that they are making a lot of left handed guns now. And there are probably others I don't know about...
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I built mine, during the black gun crisis no less, its a mismatched little creature that I named "wildebeest" some will know the reference others wont....but I was an avid anti little black gun person and well I changed my mind and its my gun built by me for me :) but I am an artist and like making stuff.
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Here s build related question... What parts are necessary to build a LH AR? Do you need a whole upper or just certain parts. Any suppliers of the uppers or LH kits?
The parts are out there but they are tough too find, way easier to just buy a complete upper.
Several years ago I sent a buddy a Stag left hand upper. He was working for private security in Bahgdad and he used it when he sat behind the driver in a Suburban. That way you don't shower your buddies with brass. :)
He said it ran great full auto.
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Youn can peice one together for allot cheaper if you aren't in a rush
:yeah:
I have been working on my first AR build for almost a year now. If you buy all the parts all at once, you will likely spend more than buying a complete AR. If you have the patience to watch for when parts go on sale, you can come out cheaper. Though probably not by much. Currently I have my lower receiver completed, and am just keeping an eye out for good deals on upper receiver parts and a .300 blackout barrel.
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I was thinking LH for safety's sake. Shot a LH one today with a brass catcher, and none of the brass hit my face. Perhaps a LH gun is overkill and a $10 brass catcher is really all that is necessary, that and some eye protection.
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just as a side note....I shoot lefty and all the ar's i shoot are righty and unless I am in a weird weird position I never get hit by brass or even notice it. Yesterday shooting the 243wssm was the first time I had a hot piece of brass land down my sleeve....that was special...but I was also shooting off a awkward rest and had my arm kinda wonky, it had never happened before that and I shoot it quite a bit.
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Most recent "built" gun. Black Rain, SMI, Black Hole, Magpul, rock River,....oh yeah, topped with a Leupold till I can frost it with a Vortex Viper. $800 cost
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I wanted to put together one instead of buying a $1100 204.
I bought a New Frontier complete lower for $ 119
The 204 complete upper is $450 + shipping of $35, if I remember right, from Model 1 Sales out of Texas.
I bought a complete Rock River lower for $300 a couple months ago for my Rock River 458 SOCOM, total price was right at $1100. I'll take $2500 cash for it........plus ammo, dies, brass........ :tup: $3000 firm.
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I wanted to put together one instead of buying a $1100 204.
I bought a New Frontier complete lower for $ 119
The 204 complete upper is $450 + shipping of $35, if I remember right, from Model 1 Sales out of Texas.
I bought a complete Rock River lower for $300 a couple months ago for my Rock River 458 SOCOM, total price was right at $1100. I'll take $2500 cash for it........plus ammo, dies, brass........ :tup: $3000 firm.
I'm sure you will get that when people freak out again.
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I wanted to put together one instead of buying a $1100 204.
I bought a New Frontier complete lower for $ 119
The 204 complete upper is $450 + shipping of $35, if I remember right, from Model 1 Sales out of Texas.
I bought a complete Rock River lower for $300 a couple months ago for my Rock River 458 SOCOM, total price was right at $1100. I'll take $2500 cash for it........plus ammo, dies, brass........ :tup: $3000 firm.
I'm sure you will get that when people freak out again.
The 204 is impressive, but it hurts when you lose a piece of brass. I had fun shooting my buddy's 20 Tactical. You lose brass with that, it's no big deal--just neck down some more 223 brass to .204. :tup:
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I wanted to put together one instead of buying a $1100 204.
I bought a New Frontier complete lower for $ 119
The 204 complete upper is $450 + shipping of $35, if I remember right, from Model 1 Sales out of Texas.
I bought a complete Rock River lower for $300 a couple months ago for my Rock River 458 SOCOM, total price was right at $1100. I'll take $2500 cash for it........plus ammo, dies, brass........ :tup: $3000 firm.
I'm sure you will get that when people freak out again.
The 204 is impressive, but it hurts when you lose a piece of brass. I had fun shooting my buddy's 20 Tactical. You lose brass with that, it's no big deal--just neck down some more 223 brass to .204. :tup:
The perfect ground squirrel round there! Thousand dead each year at our annual shoot down in enterprise. That and the Vartarg
:tup:
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I wanted to put together one instead of buying a $1100 204.
I bought a New Frontier complete lower for $ 119
The 204 complete upper is $450 + shipping of $35, if I remember right, from Model 1 Sales out of Texas.
I bought a complete Rock River lower for $300 a couple months ago for my Rock River 458 SOCOM, total price was right at $1100. I'll take $2500 cash for it........plus ammo, dies, brass........ :tup: $3000 firm.
I'm sure you will get that when people freak out again.
The 204 is impressive, but it hurts when you lose a piece of brass. I had fun shooting my buddy's 20 Tactical. You lose brass with that, it's no big deal--just neck down some more 223 brass to .204. :tup:
I've built several .204 Rugers both with WhiteOak barrels. Great cartridge but as you mentioned, I was sick of loosing brass in the field shooting chucks & Yotes. I'm going to give a BHW .20 Practical barrel a try, I can care less if I leave LC 5.56 brass strewn about.
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Chear then Dirt currently has AR's for under $600. Hard to beat that anywhere. I like a little more quality in the way of options, but like has been stated, that can be added later. And these factory guns will function! I have seen literally hundreds of "frankenguns" put together by some without knowledge come to my shop for fixes. They may have built them relatively cheap, but...?
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If your out to purchase a AR, do a little research. Purchase a factory AR or one assembled by a reputable shop. Some retailers/Gunshops do custom builds to customers specs and on the other hand assemble trinket crap together chasing the buck. I see them on the local ranges in the hands of people that don't know any better.
Funny how you see that trinket crap on the ranges but very seldom run into them in the field.
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IMHO, the best of the myriad accessories for the AR is also the cheapest--the Winter Trigger Guard. It sure is nice in cold weather when you are wearing gloves! :twocents:
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IMHO, the best of the myriad accessories for the AR is also the cheapest--the Winter Trigger Guard. It sure is nice in cold weather when you are wearing gloves! :twocents:
Ice Arms does a good trigger guard for winter calling/ gloves. As does Phase 5.
Ice Arms:
http://www.icearms.us/products.cfm?cat=6 (http://www.icearms.us/products.cfm?cat=6)
Phase 5:
http://www.phase5tactical.com/products/ar15-m16/winter-trigger-guard- (http://www.phase5tactical.com/products/ar15-m16/winter-trigger-guard-)
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I am thinking of building either my OA 243WSSM or my RRA Carbine into something that resembles a MK12 SPR...decisions decisions...
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If you had a complete lower and wanted an upper to hunt with what round would you use? Ammo/Brass availability would be very important to me, knockdown power THEN range.
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6.8 SPC
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6.8 SPC
:yeah:
Just built one for the wife and she is in love with it :tup:
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Heres one for you !
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I'll take a 5.56 and a 77gr MK over any 6.8 SPC load all the way out to 1K and I won't even mention how well the Grendel trumps both. :chuckle:
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If you had a complete lower and wanted an upper to hunt with what round would you use? Ammo/Brass availability would be very important to me, knockdown power THEN range.
Using your criteria, 300BLK, followed by 6.8SPC.
Distance you will most likely hunt plays a role also.
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BlackHole Weaponry fixed the 6.8 SPC by simply necking it down to 6.5. Might want to give their barrels a look. They also necked it down to .20 cal, .22, 6mm, 25 cal along with 6.5 and will be releasing a 6.8 necked down to .30 cal shortly. I know a bunch of guys that jumped on the 6.8 and then sold them all.
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If you had a complete lower and wanted an upper to hunt with what round would you use? Ammo/Brass availability would be very important to me, knockdown power THEN range.
Using your criteria, 300BLK, followed by 6.8SPC.
Distance you will most likely hunt plays a role also.
It always amazes me at all the hype over the 300 BLK--who but a suppressor user would want a subsonic variant of the 223 case. Might make a good brush gun, but that's about it! :twocents: Go 6.8 and you won't be sorry.
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BlackHole Weaponry fixed the 6.8 SPC by simply necking it down to 6.5. Might want to give their barrels a look. They also necked it down to .20 cal, .22, 6mm, 25 cal along with 6.5 and will be releasing a 6.8 necked down to .30 cal shortly. I know a bunch of guys that jumped on the 6.8 and then sold them all.
Yup. I got a Black Hole 6mmX6.8 a while back, and I'm thinking about selling my 6.8. Loaded ammo is available for the 6mmX6.8 SPC, but it's expensive! I make my own, being the tinkerer that I am... :chuckle:
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If you had a complete lower and wanted an upper to hunt with what round would you use? Ammo/Brass availability would be very important to me, knockdown power THEN range.
Using your criteria, 300BLK, followed by 6.8SPC.
Distance you will most likely hunt plays a role also.
It always amazes me at all the hype over the 300 BLK--who but a suppressor user would want a subsonic variant of the 223 case. Might make a good brush gun, but that's about it! :twocents: Go 6.8 and you won't be sorry.
Why do you think the 300BLK is only useful sub sonic?
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BlackHole Weaponry fixed the 6.8 SPC by simply necking it down to 6.5. Might want to give their barrels a look. They also necked it down to .20 cal, .22, 6mm, 25 cal along with 6.5 and will be releasing a 6.8 necked down to .30 cal shortly. I know a bunch of guys that jumped on the 6.8 and then sold them all.
Yup. I got a Black Hole 6mmX6.8 a while back, and I'm thinking about selling my 6.8. Loaded ammo is available for the 6mmX6.8 SPC, but it's expensive! I make my own, being the tinkerer that I am... :chuckle:
Have you wrung out your 6-6.8?
What are your thoughts on it?
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Their one shot stopping Antelope just shy of 700 yards with them(6x6.8)I'll have my 6.5x68 barrel here in the next couple days. I'm going to order a 6x68 barrel on the 15th and catch the 20% off "Shot Show" special.
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Chuckle
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Frikn IPhone's!!!
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BlackHole Weaponry fixed the 6.8 SPC by simply necking it down to 6.5. Might want to give their barrels a look. They also necked it down to .20 cal, .22, 6mm, 25 cal along with 6.5 and will be releasing a 6.8 necked down to .30 cal shortly. I know a bunch of guys that jumped on the 6.8 and then sold them all.
Yup. I got a Black Hole 6mmX6.8 a while back, and I'm thinking about selling my 6.8. Loaded ammo is available for the 6mmX6.8 SPC, but it's expensive! I make my own, being the tinkerer that I am... :chuckle:
Have you wrung out your 6-6.8?
What are your thoughts on it?
Haven't wrung it out yet, but I did find out that you don't have to elevate very much from 100 yard zero to 300 yards. It would be good for critters up to deer sized animals, but I think the 6.8 would have better knock down power. I have to make up some more test loads for the 6mm, and check the zero. A while back I thought I heard one of the turrets on the scope turning as I slid it out of the case. :dunno: Anyway, it's a good excuse to get out to the range again! :chuckle:
Hee hee! You guys type faster than I do!
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Yes Doggy, the 6x6.8 is an awesome round. Carl sent several barrels my direction early last year. Built it up, and sent a few down range! Mostly Tactical ammo stuff in their 58 grainers. My son ran up several handloads that were also phenominal shooters.maybe Carl hand picked it for me, maybe not. But in all the Blackholebarrels in various calibers ive had, the one in 6mm was above par! Even believe one of our members here will be playing with that one now and probably work up an even better load? We'll see!
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I'll take a 5.56 and a 77gr MK over any 6.8 SPC load all the way out to 1K and I won't even mention how well the Grendel trumps both. :chuckle:
So i will readily admit that i am a novice when it comes to the ar platform but my question is based in terminal performance. What is the big turnoff with the 6.8 spc when most believe a human is much easier to dispatch than a deer? The reason i ask is this round seems to be popular with the hunting crowd?
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BlackHole Weaponry fixed the 6.8 SPC by simply necking it down to 6.5. Might want to give their barrels a look. They also necked it down to .20 cal, .22, 6mm, 25 cal along with 6.5 and will be releasing a 6.8 necked down to .30 cal shortly. I know a bunch of guys that jumped on the 6.8 and then sold them all.
Yup. I got a Black Hole 6mmX6.8 a while back, and I'm thinking about selling my 6.8. Loaded ammo is available for the 6mmX6.8 SPC, but it's expensive! I make my own, being the tinkerer that I am... :chuckle:
Have you wrung out your 6-6.8?
What are your thoughts on it?
Haven't wrung it out yet, but I did find out that you don't have to elevate very much from 100 yard zero to 300 yards. It would be good for critters up to deer sized animals, but I think the 6.8 would have better knock down power. I have to make up some more test loads for the 6mm, and check the zero. A while back I thought I heard one of the turrets on the scope turning as I slid it out of the case. :dunno: Anyway, it's a good excuse to get out to the range again! :chuckle:
Hee hee! You guys type faster than I do!
I have a 20" 6-6.8 AR-15 Black Hole barrel, just waiting on the associated reloading tools and bolt to arrive.
Have you tried any heavier bullets?
Mine is mostly going to be for coyotes and I will run it suppressed.
Yea, factory ammo at ~$80.00 for 50 is too steep for me.
I'll set my Dillon 550 up for it and feed the rifle that way.
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I'll take a 5.56 and a 77gr MK over any 6.8 SPC load all the way out to 1K and I won't even mention how well the Grendel trumps both. :chuckle:
So i will readily admit that i am a novice when it comes to the ar platform but my question is based in terminal performance what is the big turnoff with the 6.8 spc when most believe a human is much easier to dispatch than a deer? the reason i ask is this round seems to be popular with the hunting crowd?
The 6.8 SPC was developed for the military as a round that would transfer over to combatants with little or no retraining, and offer more knock-down power than the .223 bullet. It was based on the 30 Remington case, for the small head, requiring very little weakening of the bolt fingers. It was never adopted by the military, but varmint hunters liked it, thus it didn't die off like most cartridges do when the military drops them. I think the 6.5 Grendel was developed with the hopes that the military would adopt it, too, but they never did....
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BlackHole Weaponry fixed the 6.8 SPC by simply necking it down to 6.5. Might want to give their barrels a look. They also necked it down to .20 cal, .22, 6mm, 25 cal along with 6.5 and will be releasing a 6.8 necked down to .30 cal shortly. I know a bunch of guys that jumped on the 6.8 and then sold them all.
Yup. I got a Black Hole 6mmX6.8 a while back, and I'm thinking about selling my 6.8. Loaded ammo is available for the 6mmX6.8 SPC, but it's expensive! I make my own, being the tinkerer that I am... :chuckle:
Have you wrung out your 6-6.8?
What are your thoughts on it?
Haven't wrung it out yet, but I did find out that you don't have to elevate very much from 100 yard zero to 300 yards. It would be good for critters up to deer sized animals, but I think the 6.8 would have better knock down power. I have to make up some more test loads for the 6mm, and check the zero. A while back I thought I heard one of the turrets on the scope turning as I slid it out of the case. :dunno: Anyway, it's a good excuse to get out to the range again! :chuckle:
Hee hee! You guys type faster than I do!
I have a 20" 6-6.8 AR-15 Black Hole barrel, just waiting on the associated reloading tools and bolt to arrive.
Have you tried any heavier bullets?
Mine is mostly going to be for coyotes and I will run it suppressed.
Yea, factory ammo at ~$80.00 for 50 is too steep for me.
I'll set my Dillon 550 up for it and feed the rifle that way.
That's what mine is, a 20" barrel. I got the 1 in 9 twist, rather than the 1 in 10 so it would handle heavier bullets better. I have heavier bullets, but haven't tried them yet. I had the load data for the 58 grain V-Max's so that's what I tried first. With a charge of IMR 8208 XBR they are nice! I used a 6.5 Grendel die set, and a 6mm Hornady neck die, which I already had to neck down the 20 LBC brass, to make the cases, and turned a trifle off the necks to true them up. All I had to get was a Hornady 6mm/243 bullet seating die.
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I'll take a 5.56 and a 77gr MK over any 6.8 SPC load all the way out to 1K and I won't even mention how well the Grendel trumps both. :chuckle:
So i will readily admit that i am a novice when it comes to the ar platform but my question is based in terminal performance what is the big turnoff with the 6.8 spc when most believe a human is much easier to dispatch than a deer? the reason i ask is this round seems to be popular with the hunting crowd?
The 6.8 SPC was developed for the military as a round that would transfer over to combatants with little or no retraining, and offer more knock-down power than the .223 bullet. It was based on the 30 Remington case, for the small head, requiring very little weakening of the bolt fingers. It was never adopted by the military, but varmint hunters liked it, thus it didn't die off like most cartridges do when the military drops them. I think the 6.5 Grendel was developed with the hopes that the military would adopt it, too, but they never did....
I know the history of the round although i do appreciate your input :). What i was asking was what is the performance deficit this cartridge apparently suffers?
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I'll take a 5.56 and a 77gr MK over any 6.8 SPC load all the way out to 1K and I won't even mention how well the Grendel trumps both. :chuckle:
So i will readily admit that i am a novice when it comes to the ar platform but my question is based in terminal performance what is the big turnoff with the 6.8 spc when most believe a human is much easier to dispatch than a deer? the reason i ask is this round seems to be popular with the hunting crowd?
The 6.8 SPC was developed for the military as a round that would transfer over to combatants with little or no retraining, and offer more knock-down power than the .223 bullet. It was based on the 30 Remington case, for the small head, requiring very little weakening of the bolt fingers. It was never adopted by the military, but varmint hunters liked it, thus it didn't die off like most cartridges do when the military drops them. I think the 6.5 Grendel was developed with the hopes that the military would adopt it, too, but they never did....
I know the history of the round although i do appreciate your input :). What i was asking was what is the performance deficit this cartridge apparently suffers?
For it's intended purpose, there is none.
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I'll take a 5.56 and a 77gr MK over any 6.8 SPC load all the way out to 1K and I won't even mention how well the Grendel trumps both. :chuckle:
So i will readily admit that i am a novice when it comes to the ar platform but my question is based in terminal performance what is the big turnoff with the 6.8 spc when most believe a human is much easier to dispatch than a deer? the reason i ask is this round seems to be popular with the hunting crowd?
The 6.8 SPC was developed for the military as a round that would transfer over to combatants with little or no retraining, and offer more knock-down power than the .223 bullet. It was based on the 30 Remington case, for the small head, requiring very little weakening of the bolt fingers. It was never adopted by the military, but varmint hunters liked it, thus it didn't die off like most cartridges do when the military drops them. I think the 6.5 Grendel was developed with the hopes that the military would adopt it, too, but they never did....
I know the history of the round although i do appreciate your input :). What i was asking was what is the performance deficit this cartridge apparently suffers?
Oh, sorry. I think the biggest deficit is the shortened case to fit into the m-16/AR-15 magazine. A 270 Winchester would drive a heavier .277 bullet faster, and can shoot a 150 grain bullet. 115 grain is about max for a 6.8 SPC. But still enough for the job it was meant to do. As for FPS and energy numbers, someone else will have to answer that!
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That's what mine is, a 20" barrel. I got the 1 in 9 twist, rather than the 1 in 10 so it would handle heavier bullets better. I have heavier bullets, but haven't tried them yet. I had the load data for the 58 grain V-Max's so that's what I tried first. With a charge of IMR 8208 XBR they are nice! I used a 6.5 Grendel die set, and a 6mm Hornady neck die, which I already had to neck down the 20 LBC brass, to make the cases, and turned a trifle off the necks to true them up. All I had to get was a Hornady 6mm/243 bullet seating die.
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Yup, same here, 9 twist. Just picked up 200+ SSA once fired brass, so I'll have plenty to work up loads.
I'm going to try the 87 Vmax and 87 Berger VLD.
You state you are seating with a 243 or 6mm die? Is that the preferred way to seat the 6-6.8?
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JTP, give me a call at the shop on thursday. Will get you a deal on those 2 boxes you might like
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JTP, give me a call at the shop on thursday. Will get you a deal on those 2 boxes you might like
Hey, My son is looking for an AR. You have any Colts, Daniel defense, LMT... He has money that is burning a hole in his pocket.
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JTP, give me a call at the shop on thursday. Will get you a deal on those 2 boxes you might like
Will do.Check your PM's
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Most guys just purchase a set of Redding type "S" bushing dies, they can use the FL die for most of the 6.8 wildcats by just changing the bushings and the seating stem in the seater die. Their are other routes for the guys that don't want to drop the cash on the Reddings. They don't give them away.
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So are the 6.8 and 6.5 based off the 270 brass?
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I don't know if they have any left, but LWRC was selling 1000 pieces of once fired 6.8 brass. A mix of SSA and Federal for 195.00
The serious guys/ developers of the 6.8 wildcats. Told me they prefer. Federal over the SSA and small primer brass.
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That's what mine is, a 20" barrel. I got the 1 in 9 twist, rather than the 1 in 10 so it would handle heavier bullets better. I have heavier bullets, but haven't tried them yet. I had the load data for the 58 grain V-Max's so that's what I tried first. With a charge of IMR 8208 XBR they are nice! I used a 6.5 Grendel die set, and a 6mm Hornady neck die, which I already had to neck down the 20 LBC brass, to make the cases, and turned a trifle off the necks to true them up. All I had to get was a Hornady 6mm/243 bullet seating die.
Yup, same here, 9 twist. Just picked up 200+ SSA once fired brass, so I'll have plenty to work up loads.
I'm going to try the 87 Vmax and 87 Berger VLD.
You state you are seating with a 243 or 6mm die? Is that the preferred way to seat the 6-6.8?
[/quote]
I don't know, but that's what I do. But then, I'm an animal! But I did find that Black Hole Barrels have a tight chamber. I had to run my reloads through the 6.8 sizing die without the expander/decapper, of course, to take out the imperceptible bulge so the rounds would chamber all the way! (I saw a guy with a 6.5x55 Swedish bolt gun who just neck sized his loads, and they wouldn't chamber all the way, either, so it apparently isn't an isolated problem!) Since I ran the loads through the sizing die, I didn't have a problem, but I did get some resistance when I did, so it must have helped.
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So are the 6.8 and 6.5 based off the 270 brass?
No, The 6.8,6.5, and 6mmx6.8SPC are based on the 30 Remington brass.
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So the 6.8 and the 270 shoot the same bullet but use different brass?
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So the 6.8 and the 270 shoot the same bullet but use different brass?
Both use .277 dia bullets.
The 6.8 is limited to the lighter class where as the 270 can handle them all.
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JTP, give me a call at the shop on thursday. Will get you a deal on those 2 boxes you might like
Will do.Check your PM's
Cool! Maybe do some dealing?
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JTP, give me a call at the shop on thursday. Will get you a deal on those 2 boxes you might like
Hey, My son is looking for an AR. You have any Colts, Daniel defense, LMT... He has money that is burning a hole in his pocket.
think I have a DDefence left..give me a call Thursady, 509-665-9362
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Most guys just purchase a set of Redding type "S" bushing dies, they can use the FL die for most of the 6.8 wildcats by just changing the bushings and the seating stem in the seater die. Their are other routes for the guys that don't want to drop the cash on the Reddings. They don't give them away.
I think that was the Main reason I got the Hornady dies--they are really reasonably priced. I did have to shorten one of the neck dies. The Grendel neck wouldn't reach in far enough! And, you can get individual Hornady dies. Anyway, it gets me to the same place. (don't know if that's good or bad! :chuckle: )
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Most guys just purchase a set of Redding type "S" bushing dies, they can use the FL die for most of the 6.8 wildcats by just changing the bushings and the seating stem in the seater die. Their are other routes for the guys that don't want to drop the cash on the Reddings. They don't give them away.
I think that was the Main reason I got the Hornady dies--they are really reasonably priced. I did have to shorten one of the neck dies. The Grendel neck wouldn't reach in far enough! And, you can get individual Hornady dies. Anyway, it gets me to the same place. (don't know if that's good or bad! :chuckle: )
So what exact die are you using? A Hornady 6.8 SPC bushing die or a shortened Grendel die?
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Most guys just purchase a set of Redding type "S" bushing dies, they can use the FL die for most of the 6.8 wildcats by just changing the bushings and the seating stem in the seater die. Their are other routes for the guys that don't want to drop the cash on the Reddings. They don't give them away.
I think that was the Main reason I got the Hornady dies--they are really reasonably priced. I did have to shorten one of the neck dies. The Grendel neck wouldn't reach in far enough! And, you can get individual Hornady dies. Anyway, it gets me to the same place. (don't know if that's good or bad! :chuckle: )
So what exact die are you using? A Hornady 6.8 SPC bushing die or a shortened Grendel die?
So the 6.8 and the 270 shoot the same bullet but use different brass?
Yes, the 25-06 and the 270 are based on the 30-06 case. BUT, the 270 case is 1/10th inch longer than the 30-06 case.
The 6.8SPC case was based on the 30 Remington case because of the base size.
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Most guys just purchase a set of Redding type "S" bushing dies, they can use the FL die for most of the 6.8 wildcats by just changing the bushings and the seating stem in the seater die. Their are other routes for the guys that don't want to drop the cash on the Reddings. They don't give them away.
I think that was the Main reason I got the Hornady dies--they are really reasonably priced. I did have to shorten one of the neck dies. The Grendel neck wouldn't reach in far enough! And, you can get individual Hornady dies. Anyway, it gets me to the same place. (don't know if that's good or bad! :chuckle: )
So what exact die are you using? A Hornady 6.8 SPC bushing die or a shortened Grendel die?
Neither. I looked, and it was the 6mm neck die that I had to shorten. (I think it was made for the 6mm Remington, and the Grendel brass I was necking down wouldn't reach.) At first, I was necking 6.5 Grendel brass down to .204, and found that going from 6.5 to .224 wasn't gradual enough, so I got the 6mm Hornady neck die. So I already had the 6mm neck die when I got the 6mmX6.8SPC barrel. And, because I already had a 6.8SPC, I had a set of 6.8 RCBS dies, too.
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BlackHole Weaponry fixed the 6.8 SPC by simply necking it down to 6.5. Might want to give their barrels a look. They also necked it down to .20 cal, .22, 6mm, 25 cal along with 6.5 and will be releasing a 6.8 necked down to .30 cal shortly. I know a bunch of guys that jumped on the 6.8 and then sold them all.
Yup. I got a Black Hole 6mmX6.8 a while back, and I'm thinking about selling my 6.8. Loaded ammo is available for the 6mmX6.8 SPC, but it's expensive! I make my own, being the tinkerer that I am... :chuckle:
Have you wrung out your 6-6.8?
What are your thoughts on it?
Haven't wrung it out yet, but I did find out that you don't have to elevate very much from 100 yard zero to 300 yards. It would be good for critters up to deer sized animals, but I think the 6.8 would have better knock down power. I have to make up some more test loads for the 6mm, and check the zero. A while back I thought I heard one of the turrets on the scope turning as I slid it out of the case. :dunno: Anyway, it's a good excuse to get out to the range again! :chuckle:
Hee hee! You guys type faster than I do!
I have a 20" 6-6.8 AR-15 Black Hole barrel, just waiting on the associated reloading tools and bolt to arrive.
Have you tried any heavier bullets?
Mine is mostly going to be for coyotes and I will run it suppressed.
Yea, factory ammo at ~$80.00 for 50 is too steep for me.
I'll set my Dillon 550 up for it and feed the rifle that way.
That's what mine is, a 20" barrel. I got the 1 in 9 twist, rather than the 1 in 10 so it would handle heavier bullets better. I have heavier bullets, but haven't tried them yet. I had the load data for the 58 grain V-Max's so that's what I tried first. With a charge of IMR 8208 XBR they are nice! I used a 6.5 Grendel die set, and a 6mm Hornady neck die, which I already had to neck down the 20 LBC brass, to make the cases, and turned a trifle off the necks to true them up. All I had to get was a Hornady 6mm/243 bullet seating die.
and its amazing how those lighter bullets designed for varmints, begin to perform like a controlled expansion round once the velocities arent cranking as high as your 243 win or 6mm rem. used to play alot in the 80's with the TCU rounds in 6mm, 6.5mm, and my favorite, the 7mm TCU! In the XP100's and the Contenders the became viable big game rounds! Thank you Bob Milek!
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If you had a complete lower and wanted an upper to hunt with what round would you use? Ammo/Brass availability would be very important to me, knockdown power THEN range.
Using your criteria, 300BLK, followed by 6.8SPC.
Distance you will most likely hunt plays a role also.
It always amazes me at all the hype over the 300 BLK--who but a suppressor user would want a subsonic variant of the 223 case. Might make a good brush gun, but that's about it! :twocents: Go 6.8 and you won't be sorry.
Why do you think the 300BLK is only useful sub sonic?
Because it was designed to be a suppressor round. you put a 30 caliber bullet in a shortened and cut down .223 case, and that's what you get--a slow freight! It was nearly impossible to make a sub-sonic .223 round for suppressor use, so the 300 Blackout was invented. Actually, it was first called the 300 Whisper, but the guy that invented it wouldn't let anyone else use the name.
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J.D. jones from SSK. Super sonic 110 equals a 123 out of an AK when both are running 16". Anemic, but coupled with the improved accuracy in an AR over an AK, AND the option of running under 1000 fps and supressed, lends more options. Hornadies or the specialized Barnes 110 makes it a viable medium game round. :tup:
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J.D. jones from SSK. Super sonic 110 equals a 123 out of an AK when both are running 16". Anemic, but coupled with the improved accuracy in an AR over an AK, AND the option of running under 1000 fps and supressed, lends more options. Hornadies or the specialized Barnes 110 makes it a viable medium game round. :tup:
What do you call "Medium game"--cats? Racoons? :chuckle: :chuckle:
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Puuuuuuft , never was one to carry anything that would handicap me even mid range wise. Never saw anything in the ".300 Whisper". Something to play with sure but application wise, I'll pass.
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J.D. jones from SSK. Super sonic 110 equals a 123 out of an AK when both are running 16". Anemic, but coupled with the improved accuracy in an AR over an AK, AND the option of running under 1000 fps and supressed, lends more options. Hornadies or the specialized Barnes 110 makes it a viable medium game round. :tup:
What do you call "Medium game"--cats? Racoons? :chuckle: :chuckle:
[/quote]Or squirrels, possums, or even pixies! :chuckle: :chuckle:
Seriously though, I was just stating the energy level comparing to another caliber. Not quite a 30/30, but close. It would be very capable for deer sized game out to a couple hundred yards easily. Running lehigh bullets, a little more so. BUT, the Blackout was not designed for that purpose. More aptly for close in clean up work in an urban environment. Scenario..a team gets sent into a structure to clear. A number enter, a number sets the perimeter. Say even a light built structure for the sake of making a point. Penetration become an issue not only for interior team members, but people possibly in other rooms, along with perimeter team. Mp5's ideal for that situation. But bad guy makes a run out the back and down the alley. 100-150 yards away. Handgun round you hope might hit the target, a 30 cal with twice the smack hits the target! Plus, supressed in the interior allows members to communicate and save their hearing. Thats more in tune with what the "whisper" was designed for. Not an aplication that everyone needs or uses..for us, its just flat fun! :tup: plus, they say you can shoot a deer in the nose at twenty paces and actually knock him out! ;)
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If you had a complete lower and wanted an upper to hunt with what round would you use? Ammo/Brass availability would be very important to me, knockdown power THEN range.
Using your criteria, 300BLK, followed by 6.8SPC.
Distance you will most likely hunt plays a role also.
It always amazes me at all the hype over the 300 BLK--who but a suppressor user would want a subsonic variant of the 223 case. Might make a good brush gun, but that's about it! :twocents: Go 6.8 and you won't be sorry.
Why do you think the 300BLK is only useful sub sonic?
Because it was designed to be a suppressor round. you put a 30 caliber bullet in a shortened and cut down .223 case, and that's what you get--a slow freight! It was nearly impossible to make a sub-sonic .223 round for suppressor use, so the 300 Blackout was invented. Actually, it was first called the 300 Whisper, but the guy that invented it wouldn't let anyone else use the name.
I have several AR-15's chambered in 5.56 ( a few..), 6-223, 6-6.8 ( haven't shot this one yet), and 300 BLK.
My favorite for everyday shooting, plinking, coyotes, out to 300 yards is the 300 BLK. It's a ton of fun to shoot, both super sonic and sub sonic, all run suppressed.
Minimal recoil, low blast, even un suppressed, doesn't dirty up the action when suppressed like the 5.56's do.
Very forgiving to reload. Bullets from 95 grain up to 240 grain and all will function the rifle.
I would have no issues taking a deer sized animal out to 300 yards with it. Will I ever? most likely not as I have better choices. Coyotes to ~300, absolutely.
I would be happy to meet up with you and let you shoot my 300BLK. It will surprise you.
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so what would be the way to go for a feller that doesn't reload...wish I could but I don't have the space for it
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so what would be the way to go for a feller that doesn't reload...wish I could but I don't have the space for it
For a hunting AR? If that's the case, it's hard to beat a 6.5 Grendel with factory Hornady loads in 123gr SST or 123gr A-Max at 24.00 bucks a box. I was purchasing the 123gr A-Max locally for 21.00 this last summer. I haven't looked at local prices lately because I stocked up on them due to the fact they shot so well. It was well worth the loaded price. It shot so well that I haven't even touched my Lapua brass for reloading. I did order 10 more boxes locally but I didn't ask the price, I guess I'll find out when they show up.
I've been witness to a 6.5 Grendel one shot stop on a Mulie at 496 yards with a 120 Ballistic Tip in .264 LBC brass launched from a 16" Alexander Arm M4 carbine barrel.
Precision Firearms sells a wide verity of 6.5 Grendel / .264 LBC loads. I shot a bunch of their .264 LBC through my Grendels.
http://www.precisionfirearms.com/29.html (http://www.precisionfirearms.com/29.html)
MidWay USA has a M4 6.5 Grendel barrel and bolt on hand in stock right now for 279.00. They go fast, you can throw the barrel on any AR, change the bolt and stuff a 18.00 buck Grendel magazine in it and your good to go.
Barrel.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/884877/ar-stoner-barrel-and-bolt-ar-15-65-grendel-medium-m4-contour-1-in-8-twist-16-stainless-steel (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/884877/ar-stoner-barrel-and-bolt-ar-15-65-grendel-medium-m4-contour-1-in-8-twist-16-stainless-steel)
Magazine.
http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2726 (http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2726)
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that is what I was thinking...and the 6.5 grendel just requires new bolt and barrel correct?
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Yes, most Grendel barrels come with a bolt. Magazines are only 18.00 bucks or so. The barrel I added above to my post is a 8 twist to boot. :tup:
Best your going to get out of a AR with factory foder available. :IBCOOL:
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This is from my 17" 6.5 Grendel at 300yards. This is with factory Hornady 123gr A-Max!
One of the better groups.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi90.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk269%2Flandonmoses%2Fphoto-47_zps829ec70d.jpg&hash=21f26b4a704db7f1b6e1ea7c0f62ea5f01c0dce9) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/landonmoses/media/photo-47_zps829ec70d.jpg.html)
About its average at 300 yards.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi90.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk269%2Flandonmoses%2FIMG_0523_zps562ff60c.jpg&hash=39383c353e0c7dc40f4776e1bf006f14bc3f66c1) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/landonmoses/media/IMG_0523_zps562ff60c.jpg.html)
The 123's kill Rockchucks... DEAD! Tried to keep the photo half way decent. You can tell he's a little thin with the unzipped side down.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi90.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk269%2Flandonmoses%2FGroundhogs%2Fphoto1-1_zpsfae67a54.jpg&hash=ca79e407429966e7d162056452a800552165ba41) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/landonmoses/media/Groundhogs/photo1-1_zpsfae67a54.jpg.html)
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I think I'm sold... Got a stripped upper already it will prolly be a long term build when I get the money/see stuff on sale kinda deal
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I think I'm sold... Got a stripped upper already it will prolly be a long term build when I get the money/see stuff on sale kinda deal
PM me what other parts your interested in or may be looking for, a general idea of what type of AR you want to put together. I may have them or can help find them new or used for a decent deal.
Now days on assembling most AR's , I start with the barrel if I have to order it from a custom maker. The barrel usually takes the longest. The rest of the parts come easy.
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If you have to buy a Grendel bolt, make sure it's a Type II bolt, and not just a 7.62x39 bolt. The Grendel Type II bolt is 10 thousanths deeper than the 7.62x39 bolt so it chambers the round and the bolt fingers lock up with the barrel. :tup:
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Back to the OP
My son looked into buy verses build and it looks cheaper to buy one out right then to build? Crazy... I guess when you buy in bulk you can put together those rifles pretty cheap.
Kinda went sideways discussion wise, as they sometimes do when opinion between us gun loonies opens up. Hopefully, you question was somewhat answered? Cheaper to buy complete for a basic gun, cheaper to build if you want to go with a certain look, spec etc. and I will check on the Daniels Defense for your son.
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If you have to buy a Grendel bolt, make sure it's a Type II bolt, and not just a 7.62x39 bolt. The Grendel Type II bolt is 10 thousanths deeper than the 7.62x39 bolt so it chambers the round and the bolt fingers lock up with the barrel. :tup:
:yeah:
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Back to the OP
My son looked into buy verses build and it looks cheaper to buy one out right then to build? Crazy... I guess when you buy in bulk you can put together those rifles pretty cheap.
Kinda went sideways discussion wise, as they sometimes do when opinion between us gun loonies opens up. Hopefully, you question was somewhat answered? Cheaper to buy complete for a basic gun, cheaper to build if you want to go with a certain look, spec etc. and I will check on the Daniels Defence for your son.
It's Defense BTW.
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Back to the OP
My son looked into buy verses build and it looks cheaper to buy one out right then to build? Crazy... I guess when you buy in bulk you can put together those rifles pretty cheap.
Kinda went sideways discussion wise, as they sometimes do when opinion between us gun loonies opens up. Hopefully, you question was somewhat answered? Cheaper to buy complete for a basic gun, cheaper to build if you want to go with a certain look, spec etc. and I will check on the Daniels Defence for your son.
It's Defense BTW.
glad you are always there to catch any typos Bait! What ever would I do without cha?? :dunno: :chuckle: :chuckle:never know, there might be more... :chuckle:
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Back to the OP
My son looked into buy verses build and it looks cheaper to buy one out right then to build? Crazy... I guess when you buy in bulk you can put together those rifles pretty cheap.
Kinda went sideways discussion wise, as they sometimes do when opinion between us gun loonies opens up. Hopefully, you question was somewhat answered? Cheaper to buy complete for a basic gun, cheaper to build if you want to go with a certain look, spec etc. and I will check on the Daniels Defence for your son.
:yeah: When you ask us gun loonies for an opinion, you often get more than you bargained for. And there's absolutely nothing wrong with a .223. :chuckle:
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:yeah:
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Sorry I did thread jack ya... Bigger hammer thanks for the offer I will take you up on if when I get some OT
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Sorry I did thread jack ya... Bigger hammer thanks for the offer I will take you up on if when I get some OT
:tup: I have odds and ends you can just have.
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If Big Game hunting is a concern, a 6.8 SPC or a 6.5 Grendel upper might be a better choice, as .223's are not legal to use on Deer and other Game Animals in Washington State. OK for varmints and plinking, but not Game animals... :twocents: