Post by: duckmen1 on January 16, 2014, 02:46:20 PM
Could this be a heater core.
I do get good heat to blow from vents
Post by: Woodchuck on January 16, 2014, 02:47:25 PM
Post by: jackmaster on January 16, 2014, 02:50:26 PM
Post by: duckmen1 on January 16, 2014, 02:58:31 PM
Thanks
Post by: jackmaster on January 16, 2014, 03:00:47 PM
Post by: cbond3318 on January 16, 2014, 03:01:55 PM
Post by: Rick on January 16, 2014, 03:02:00 PM
Post by: duckmen1 on January 16, 2014, 03:04:04 PM
Jack master good thought I will look into it. Thanks
Ya not looking forward to doing it but would rather get it done and over with than not be able to see until I'm launching the boat after an hour drive :chuckle:
Post by: duckmen1 on January 16, 2014, 03:04:56 PM
Post by: Buckmark on January 16, 2014, 03:06:12 PM
I can say I love my truck. I figured that's what it was. Now the issue is gonna be getting it fixed. I heard you have to pull the whole dash off to get to it and it's a pain. But the prices of a dealer would be ridiculous. So I'm gonna have to figure it out cause I'm not paying hundred and hundreds in labor for a 60 dollars part.You would be paying hundreds of dollars for the experience and time it would take a technician to remove the dash, replace the core, reinstall the dash, and refill the cooling system.
Thanks
The fact the core is a 60 part is irrelevant...BTW buy a good core so you wont have to redo it in a year... :twocents:
Post by: duckmen1 on January 16, 2014, 03:09:36 PM
Post by: elkoholic1 on January 16, 2014, 03:09:59 PM
Post by: Woodchuck on January 16, 2014, 03:10:10 PM
Post by: Buckmark on January 16, 2014, 03:11:45 PM
A/C system service....I forgot about that....
You will need a shop to recover and recharge for you..
Post by: duckmen1 on January 16, 2014, 03:14:44 PM
Post by: jackelope on January 16, 2014, 03:35:00 PM
It's a 2000. And the ac doesn't hardly get cold right now either. How much will a shop charge to recharge the ac?
Heater Core
Replace
Main Heater & A/C
Without AC 5.6
Does Not Include: Refrigerant Recovery Or Evacuate & Recharge AC System.
With AC 6.2
Does Not Include: Refrigerant Recovery Or Evacuate & Recharge AC System.
NOTE
With Manual Trans, Add 0.4
Will probably take you 10-12 hours to do I bet.
A 2000 Dodge truck does not have a cabin air filter so don't bother looking at that.
An A/C service would probably run $140 or so I'd guess depending on where you are. You could go to Shucks and get a DIY kit too if you want to save a few bucks. The thing is you've got to discharge it too before you repair it.
Post by: Woodchuck on January 16, 2014, 03:35:37 PM
Post by: jackelope on January 16, 2014, 03:39:35 PM
The HVAC housing assembly must be removed from the vehicle and disassembled for service access of the heater core, a/c evaporator, and each of the various mode control doors.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Remove the dash board from the vehicle. Refer to: Body and Frame, Interior Trim, Dashboard/Instrument Panel, Service and Repair, Instrument Panel Service Procedures, Instrument Panel Assembly Replacement, See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim\Dashboard / Instrument Panel\Service and Repair\Instrument Panel Assembly :
INSTRUMENT PANEL ASSEMBLY
Removal
WARNING: On vehicles equipped with airbags, refer to See: Restraints and Safety Systems\Air Bag Systems- passive restraint systems before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in accidental airbag deployment and possible personal injury.
NOTE: Before starting this procedure, be certain to turn the steering wheel until the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Remove the Airbag Control Module (ACM) and bracket from the floor panel transmission tunnel. See: Relays and Modules\Relays and Modules - Restraints and Safety Systems\Air Bag Control Module\Service and Repair
Remove the trim from the left and right cowl side inner panels. See: Service and Repair
Remove the steering column opening cover from the instrument panel. See: Service and Repair
Remove the two screws that secure the inside hood latch release handle to the instrument panel lower reinforcement and lower the release handle to the floor.
Disconnect the clockspring pigtail wire connector from the instrument panel wire harness connector located on the instrument panel lower reinforcement.
If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the overdrive lockout switch pigtail wire connector from the instrument panel wire harness connector near the instrument panel lower reinforcement.
Remove the steering column from the vehicle, but do not remove the driver airbag, the steering wheel, or the switches from the column. Be certain that the steering wheel is locked and secured from rotation to prevent the loss of clockspring centering. See: Steering and Suspension\Steering\Steering Column\Service and Repair
From under the driver side of the instrument panel, perform following:
Disengage the park brake release handle linkage rod from the park brake mechanism on the left cowl side inner panel. See: Brakes and Traction Control\Parking Brake System\Parking Brake Pedal\Service and Repair
Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector from the park brake switch on the park brake mechanism.
Disconnect the three connectors (one from the body wire harness, and two from the headlamp and dash wire harness) from the three connector receptacles located closest to the dash panel on the back of the Junction Block (JB).
Remove the screw from the center of the headlamp and dash wire harness to instrument panel wire harness bulkhead connector and disconnect the connector.
Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness to door wire harness connector located directly below the instrument panel wire harness to headlamp and dash wire harness bulkhead connector.
If the vehicle is equipped with the Infinity sound system option, disconnect the infinity wire harness connector from the instrument panel wire harness connector that is secured to the outboard side of the instrument panel wire harness to headlamp and dash wire harness bulkhead connector.
Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector from the stop lamp switch.
Disconnect the heater-A/C housing vacuum harness connector from the heater-A/C control vacuum harness connector located near the left end of the heater-A/C housing.
From under the passenger side of the instrument panel, disconnect the two halves of the radio antenna coaxial cable connector.
Loosen the right and left instrument panel cowl side roll-down bracket screws about 13 mm (0.50 inch).
Remove the five screws that secure the top of the instrument panel to the top of the dash panel, removing the center screw last.
Roll down the instrument panel and install a temporary hook in the center hole on top of the instrument panel. Secure the other end of the hook to the center hole in the top of the dash panel. The hook should support the instrument panel in its rolled down position about 46 cm (18 inches) from the dash panel.
With the instrument panel supported in the roll-down position, disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connectors from the heater-A/C housing wire harness connectors.
With the aid of an assistant, remove the temporary hook and life the instrument panel assembly off of the roll-down bracket screws and remove it from the vehicle.
If the vehicle is not equipped with air conditioning, go to Step 6. If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, recover the refrigerant from the system, please refer to Heating and Air Conditioning/Service and Repair/ See: Service and Repair
Disconnect the liquid line refrigerant line fitting from the evaporator inlet tube. Install plugs in, or tape over all of the opened refrigerant line fittings.
Remove the accumulator. Install plugs in, or tape over all of the opened refrigerant line fittings.
Drain the engine cooling system. See: Engine, Cooling and Exhaust\Cooling System
Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes. Install plugs in, or tape over the opened heater core tubes.
Remove the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) from the dash panel and set it aside, but do not unplug the PCM wire harness connectors, please refer to Powertrain Management/Computers and Controls/ See: Powertrain Management\Computers and Control Systems\Engine Control Module
Remove the nuts from the HVAC housing mounting studs on the engine compartment side of the dash panel.
Fig.8 HVAC Housing Remove/Install
Remove the nuts that secure the HVAC housing to the mounting studs on the passenger compartment side of the dash panel.
Pull the HVAC housing rearward far enough for the mounting studs and the evaporator condensate drain tube to clear the dash panel holes.
Remove the HVAC housing from the vehicle. HVAC Housing Inlet Baffle
Remove the HVAC housing from the vehicle.
Fig.9 HVAC Housing Inlet Baffle Remove/Install
Slide the HVAC housing inlet baffle all the way to one side of the cowl plenum opening.
Pull downwards sharply and firmly on the opposite side of the HVAC housing inlet baffle to disengage the snap features from the cowl plenum opening.
Remove the HVAC housing inlet baffle from the cowl plenum panel.
INSTALLATION
Position the HVAC housing to the dash panel. Be certain that the evaporator condensate drain tube and the housing mounting studs are inserted into their correct mounting holes.
Install the nuts that secure the HVAC housing to the mounting studs on the passenger compartment side of the dash panel. Tighten the nuts to 4.5 Nm (40 in. lbs.) .
Install and tighten the nuts onto the HVAC housing mounting studs on the engine compartment side of the dash panel. Tighten the nuts to 7 Nm (60 in. lbs.) .
Unplug or remove the tape from the heater core tubes. Connect the heater hoses to the heater core tubes and fill the engine cooling system. Refer Cooling for the procedures. See: Engine, Cooling and Exhaust\Cooling System
If the vehicle is not equipped with air conditioning, go to Step 10. If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, install the accumulator. Connect the accumulator inlet tube coupler to the evaporator outlet tube.
Unplug or remove the tape from the liquid line and the evaporator inlet tube fittings. Connect the liquid line coupler to the evaporator inlet tube.
Evacuate the refrigerant system.
Charge the refrigerant system, please refer to Heating and Air Conditioning/Service and Repair/ See: Service and Repair
Reinstall the PCM to the dash panel, please refer to Powertrain Management/Computers and Controls/ See: Powertrain Management\Computers and Control Systems\Engine Control Module
Reinstall the dash board in the vehicle. Refer to: Body and Frame, Interior Trim, Dashboard/Instrument Panel, Service and Repair, Instrument Panel Service Procedures, Instrument Panel Assembly Replacement, See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim\Dashboard / Instrument Panel\Service and Repair\Instrument Panel Assembly
Connect the battery negative cable.
Start the engine and check for proper operation of the heating and air conditioning systems. HVAC Housing Inlet Baffle
Install the HVAC housing inlet baffle in the cowl plenum panel.
Slide the HVAC housing inlet baffle to engage the snap features.
Make certain that the snap features on each side of the adapter are fully engaged with the sides of the plenum panel opening. This must be a water tight connection to prevent leaks.
Install the HVAC housing in the vehicle. Refer to Body and Frame/ Interior Trim/ Dashboard / Instrument Panel/ Service and Repair/ Procedures. See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim\Dashboard / Instrument Panel\Service and Repair
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Post by: jackelope on January 16, 2014, 03:42:32 PM
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is located in the engine compartment.
REMOVAL
The avoid possible voltage spike damage to the PCM, ignition key must be OFF, and negative battery cable must be disconnected before unplugging PCM connectors.
Disconnect negative battery cable(s) at battery(s).
Remove cover over electrical connectors. Cover is naps onto PCM.
Carefully unplug the three 32-way connectors from PCM.
Remove three PCM mounting bolts and remove PCM from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
Install PCM and mounting bolts to vehicle.
Tighten bolts to 4 Nm (35 in. lbs.) .
Check pin connectors in the PCM and the three 32-way connectors for corrosion or damage. Repair as necessary.
Install three 32-way connectors.
Install cover over electrical connectors. Cover snaps onto PCM.
Install battery cable(s).
Use the DRB scan tool to reprogram new PCM with Vehicles Original Identification Number (VIN) and original vehicle mileage. If this step is not done, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) may be set.
PCM VIN REPROGRAMMING
USE THE DRB III SCAN TOOL TO REPROGRAM THE NEW POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) WITH THE VEHICLES ORIGINAL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER (VIN) AND THE VEHICLES ORIGINAL MILEAGE. IF THIS STEP IS NOT DONE, A DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) MAY BE SET.
Not sure if you can get away with not disconnecting PCM.
Post by: FC on January 16, 2014, 03:44:50 PM
:iamwithstupid: FWIW a Dodge heater core is not a good project for a person to cut their mechanic teeth on. :twocents:
Will take a pretty serious stereo to cover all those new rattles! :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:
Post by: iusmc2002 on January 16, 2014, 03:47:46 PM
Post by: jackelope on January 16, 2014, 04:14:10 PM
After seeing Jackelope's written procedure, I would say that it would be a wise move to take it to the dealership or other reputable shop! Messing with the airbag control stuff is no fun
All depends on what your time is worth.
Post by: Woodchuck on January 16, 2014, 04:16:44 PM
Post by: Buckmark on January 16, 2014, 04:29:00 PM
Do not let the kids bring a swear jar and watch. :twocents:More like a swear bucket... :chuckle:
*
Aw Jackelope you took all the fun out of it.
*
Just disconnect the heater hoses and loop them together, go to wal mart and buy one of those plug into the acc outlet heaters and your good to go, 50 bucks.... :chuckle:
Post by: jackelope on January 16, 2014, 04:40:27 PM
Do not let the kids bring a swear jar and watch. :twocents:More like a swear bucket... :chuckle:
*
Aw Jackelope you took all the fun out of it.
*
Just disconnect the heater hoses and loop them together, go to wal mart and buy one of those plug into the acc outlet heaters and your good to go, 50 bucks.... :chuckle:
I used that in hopes he'd report back after doing the job.
You could get away a lot cheaper than $50 by going to the hardware store and get a barbed coupler and a couple hose clamps. Just don't fill the cooling system up with water.
Post by: duckmen1 on January 16, 2014, 04:44:54 PM
Post by: duckmen1 on January 16, 2014, 04:45:17 PM
Post by: jackelope on January 16, 2014, 05:09:24 PM
I will let you know the outcome when we get to doing it. Not sure when I will get the problem taken care of. Might be a bit.
Don't run it out of coolant and don't fill it full of water.
Good luck.
Post by: follow maggie on January 16, 2014, 11:13:43 PM
Post by: Buckmark on January 17, 2014, 12:01:18 PM
50 bucks was for the Dodge coolant and the 12v elec heater... :chuckle:Do not let the kids bring a swear jar and watch. :twocents:More like a swear bucket... :chuckle:
*
Aw Jackelope you took all the fun out of it.
*
Just disconnect the heater hoses and loop them together, go to wal mart and buy one of those plug into the acc outlet heaters and your good to go, 50 bucks.... :chuckle:
I used that in hopes he'd report back after doing the job.
You could get away a lot cheaper than $50 by going to the hardware store and get a barbed coupler and a couple hose clamps. Just don't fill the cooling system up with water.
Post by: coachcw on January 19, 2014, 09:14:53 AM
Post by: Woodchuck on March 06, 2014, 01:09:47 PM
Post by: duckmen1 on March 07, 2014, 07:09:46 PM