Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: Gringo31 on January 30, 2014, 11:52:17 AM
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It's time for me to change out the flooring on my 20 year old Hewscraft.
Any recommendations on what material to use?
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I gutted my bronco, sand blasted it and used hurculiner looks good washes down easily enuff and it has lots traction 80 grit or better I would guess. might not be a bad way to go if your just replacing carpet.
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I'm guessing his flooring doesn't have carpet on a 20' Hewescraft. A LineX/Rhino type liner would be great, pending the main floor isn't too decayed. :twocents:
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Marine Grade Plywood.
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Marine Grade Plywood.
:tup:
Marine Plywood
Marine plywood is commonly used to replace a rotting boat floor. This type of plywood is specially treated to resist rotting in high moisture environments. Marine plywood is premium quality plywood selected based on density and bending strength. It is available in different appearances, grades, thicknesses, lengths and widths.
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Marine Grade Plywood.
:yeah: :yeah: anything less would be a waste of time, unless your going with a thin type of trex material, definatly like the rhino liner type anti skid to
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3/16th polished diamond plate. Ive done a few and can get you wholesale on the sheets even. If your gonna keep it its worth it. Cost over marine ply and say deco dot covering is almost a wash.
The material cuts with the same tools used for plywood.
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Diamond plate gets very hot and the reflection in sunlight can be blinding.
I've got a buddy that used LineX, and the material being black also got very hot.
Marine grade plywood is a good option, it can be covered with marine carpet or vinyl as well, and cleans up easily without excessive heat or glare. :twocents:
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That looks awesome, Wildman. :tup: However, living on the eastern side of the state, you'd never catch me diamond plating my boat floor. Glare from the sun, slippery when wet, and hot feet would do me in. And yes, I've experienced all of these in a diamond plate floor.
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Not only will you achieve a nice reflection tan you will also be able to cook your catch right on the floor on those sunny dayz! :tup:
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Not only will you achieve a nice reflection tan you will also be able to cook your catch right on the floor on those sunny dayz! :tup:
:chuckle:
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I myself would look into or try and find some suitable Aerospace composite honeycomb material and non skid it after install.Lightweight and rot proof.
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Gringo, what part of the state are you located?
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Imagine how good a diamond plate looks with a grey non skid type coating applied! ;) WOW factor high!!!! :tup:
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Corsa board would be slick too! Fiberglass plywood. Coated with a non skid. But very expensive :yike:
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Eastern Wa...
The only way I'd put diamond plate in is if I then covered it. The blinding factor would be terrible. Most of my days on the water are 90 degrees calm and sunny.
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You would be surprised how fast the glare goes away from usage. Some even scotchbrite it pre install. An Aluminum etch acid washed over it is the fastest way to kill the glare.
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How about putting Rhino over the diamond plate? I think that may be sweeeeet.
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How about putting Rhino over the diamond plate? I think that may be sweeeeet.
I got tired of cleaning the black residue from around each diamond on my trailer fenders after polishing it, so I had them LineX'ed.
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How about putting Rhino over the diamond plate? I think that may be sweeeeet.
Back to a HOT black surface. I think you can tint the black to maybe grey...
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3/16th polished diamond plate.
You would be surprised how fast the glare goes away from usage. Some even scotchbrite it pre install. An Aluminum etch acid washed over it is the fastest way to kill the glare.
Why bother with the polished stuff then?
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Phool, you put a lime green topper on that instead of the blue and then we'll be talkin' :chuckle:
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3/16th polished diamond plate.
You would be surprised how fast the glare goes away from usage. Some even scotchbrite it pre install. An Aluminum etch acid washed over it is the fastest way to kill the glare.
Why bother with the polished stuff then?
Cause its twice as cheap! Real diamond tread is expensive. Polished is 3003 cheap material. Diamond plate and diamond tread are 2 different animals. Diamond tread actually has tread on the diamonds. Thats why polished plate is semi slippery when wet. Its just a "look"
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Phool, you put a lime green topper on that instead of the blue and then we'll be talkin' :chuckle:
Go Hawks!!! :tup:
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You can even add "textures" on the diamond plate! Imagine a camo diamond plate floor! :tup:
http://textures.aseev.com/ (http://textures.aseev.com/)
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First off what kind of floor do you have. The we can go from there.
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First off what kind of floor do you have. The we can go from there.
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It's time for me to change out the flooring on my 20 year old Hewscraft.
Any recommendations on what material to use?
Gringo there is a good chance I built that boat 20 years ago, if you want I can put you onto some people that could fix it up for you?
Is the old wood still usable as a pattern? Or is it disentgrated?
Also you'll want to pull all that old nasty foam out of the bottom, it'll be full of gunk and HEAVY so it'll need to all come out and replaced. Also while the floor is off I'd also redo all the gas lines and really check out that fuel tank, maybe replace the float. There is also a chance some of the stringers will need welded if there is cracks and stuff. If it were me I'd gut it then acid wash everything, replace with new marine plywood and all new seats - but that's me.
Once that floor is off you'll be getting into more of a project that you anticipated, but all is doable. They're a simple boat.
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For a pattern it ill be fine. It's soft in a few spots and one of the chairs pulled through the floor pulling up rotten wood. I wish you were closer KFhunter! Saw you lost your job......if you were closer I'd try to put you to work :chuckle: :tup:
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How about diamond plate and then having it powder blasted to a dull finish to reduce glare?
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For a colored no slip layer over your marine ply, you could go with one of these new thick deck reconditioner type finishes.
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For a pattern it ill be fine. It's soft in a few spots and one of the chairs pulled through the floor pulling up rotten wood. I wish you were closer KFhunter! Saw you lost your job......if you were closer I'd try to put you to work :chuckle: :tup:
You got me confused, or know something I don't know :o :chuckle:
Just make sure you replace that foam.
http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html (http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html)
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Sorry, I must have you confused..
Thanks for all the replies. I'm leaning towards marine grade plywood but not sure of the top layer. Here is a pic of the current floor
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fd%2F14%2F01%2F31%2Fa3eve4y6.jpg&hash=53e95c089b4be0532147daef99c2c87b04e8d4b9)
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rhino liner!
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I'd glue this stuff down over your marine ply. I have it in my Lund as the factory flooring and it works great.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Dorsett-Marine-Vinyl-Floor/1316443.uts?productVariantId=3063989&WT.tsrc=CSE&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=03340783&rid=40&channel=GoogleBaseUSA&mr:trackingCode=7C632FC4-6BB6-E111-8DC4-001B21631C34&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=31802886671&mr:keyword&mr:match&mr:filter=18283950120&gclid=CNvJ9o3dqLwCFeh0QgodLwMApg&gclsrc=aw.ds (http://www.cabelas.com/product/Dorsett-Marine-Vinyl-Floor/1316443.uts?productVariantId=3063989&WT.tsrc=CSE&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=03340783&rid=40&channel=GoogleBaseUSA&mr:trackingCode=7C632FC4-6BB6-E111-8DC4-001B21631C34&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=31802886671&mr:keyword&mr:match&mr:filter=18283950120&gclid=CNvJ9o3dqLwCFeh0QgodLwMApg&gclsrc=aw.ds)
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That's definitely a lot nicer than the carpet in my Lund.
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Go with rhino liner if you don't mind scraping ur knuckles all the time.Did that on my cj5 and wish I didn't :bash: I would go with marine ply cant go wrong :Tupi:
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I'd glue this stuff down over your marine ply. I have it in my Lund as the factory flooring and it works great.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Dorsett-Marine-Vinyl-Floor/1316443.uts?productVariantId=3063989&WT.tsrc=CSE&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=03340783&rid=40&channel=GoogleBaseUSA&mr:trackingCode=7C632FC4-6BB6-E111-8DC4-001B21631C34&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=31802886671&mr:keyword&mr:match&mr:filter=18283950120&gclid=CNvJ9o3dqLwCFeh0QgodLwMApg&gclsrc=aw.ds (http://www.cabelas.com/product/Dorsett-Marine-Vinyl-Floor/1316443.uts?productVariantId=3063989&WT.tsrc=CSE&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=03340783&rid=40&channel=GoogleBaseUSA&mr:trackingCode=7C632FC4-6BB6-E111-8DC4-001B21631C34&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=31802886671&mr:keyword&mr:match&mr:filter=18283950120&gclid=CNvJ9o3dqLwCFeh0QgodLwMApg&gclsrc=aw.ds)
That is very similar to the vinyl flooring in my boat, and a lot of other manufacturers boats.
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Most of my boat is diamond plate and yes it gets hot, but I'd never put in marine grade plywood adds a lot of weight and definitely sucks to clean. :dunno:
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It's time for me to change out the flooring on my 20 year old Hewscraft.
Any recommendations on what material to use?
Gringo there is a good chance I built that boat 20 years ago, if you want I can put you onto some people that could fix it up for you?
Is the old wood still usable as a pattern? Or is it disentgrated?
Also you'll want to pull all that old nasty foam out of the bottom, it'll be full of gunk and HEAVY so it'll need to all come out and replaced. Also while the floor is off I'd also redo all the gas lines and really check out that fuel tank, maybe replace the float. There is also a chance some of the stringers will need welded if there is cracks and stuff. If it were me I'd gut it then acid wash everything, replace with new marine plywood and all new seats - but that's me.
Once that floor is off you'll be getting into more of a project that you anticipated, but all is doable. They're a simple boat.
I helped my dad replace the floor and fuel lines in his Hewescraft many years ago. Used marine grade plywood. His boat had a built in fuel tank under the floor. The problem was the fuel lines had some type of electrolysis reaction with the aluminum bottom to the boat. This electrolysis created more than a dozen pin wholes in the aluminum. We had to get someone to weld all the pin wholes in the bottom of the boat so it would still float. I am not sure if I am using the correct term or spelling.
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I'd never put in marine grade plywood adds a lot of weight and definitely sucks to clean. :dunno:
My entire floor is marine grade plywood and I've never touched it. ;)
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I replaced floor in my old 78 Bayliner. Fiberglass overlayed marine plywood supported with 2x6 treated joist. Easy really. Cut it out at perimeter and replace it all. Resin and matt goes down easily but messy. Outdoor carpet and you golden. Mine was better than new! Solid as rock. Do a live well too! Or a cooler?
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I would stick with what the manufacture did. Marine grade plywood and vinyl....I did the floor in my Hewescraft a couple years ago and it looks great. Thought about rhino lining and other options. Talked to an engineer at Hewes and he recommended against changing the design because of floatation and USCG standards. I called rhino lining and got a weight per sq ft for their product. Bascially rhino lining would have added about 200lbs to the fllor over marine grade vinyl. And they would only guarantee for a year because of the high moisture content of boat floors. Would have also double the cost of the project.
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Well done Reaper, it looks good. :tup:
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Awesome tips and advice...
Thank you!
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(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fd%2F14%2F02%2F16%2Fmuvy8a3y.jpg&hash=a3d67617beab37485cfe59b8115e9c258e695d45)(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fd%2F14%2F02%2F16%2Fage9y5ad.jpg&hash=5c27d29ce97ebb72a5f9d066d39645fd543c34af)(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fd%2F14%2F02%2F16%2Fa4yzedyt.jpg&hash=a08fd3c110237774d56d48c1ac8dcdb46a0e82e9)(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fd%2F14%2F02%2F16%2Fa9a9yru3.jpg&hash=ba9087b67514c3ebb18cd978f26c9b30fe417556)
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Lots left to do. But I'm kinda enjoying the process. It a good distraction an stress break
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:tup:
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You can always put snap down carpet in it if you want to pull it out and pressure wash while hanging vs laying in the boat. common in runabouts, but less common in fishing boats. Not sure why, but it always seemed like a good way to clean both the carpet and sub floor
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I've been looking at new rear seats. Having a hell of a time locating. Fear I may just need to have em built. Looking for something like this pic
Suggestions?
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fd%2F14%2F02%2F17%2Fzy4udaju.jpg&hash=c3aac3a893ed0729f64955e1b3f47d2a5ddc7f57)
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Cut a piece of marine plywood the same size as you have there and have somebody upholster them them to you specs! Supper easy and fun!!!!! Boy you boat will be brand new when done!!! :tup:
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deck not floor
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You will likely need to have them made to your specific size. You might try www.overtons.com (http://www.overtons.com) but I doubt they will have seperate bottom and back pieces.
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Been at it slowly when I get time. It's starting to take shape but I need to hurry if I'm going to get any fishing in. I changed out all fuel lines, painted the marine grade plywood before I covered it with vinyl. Just screwed down floor tonight. Think I'm on the home stretch!(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fd%2F14%2F04%2F13%2F6ydydage.jpg&hash=ad55fe815ee9d23cf4abf87531594c3bf2019165)(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fd%2F14%2F04%2F13%2Fte9y6ehe.jpg&hash=722180e4144963000bf6bc7ad9e036d57ec6d676)(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fd%2F14%2F04%2F13%2Fbetahy5a.jpg&hash=01c4564d703a0ec35d8c51c88ef7cf45ab0265f1)
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Looks good G :tup:
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Side track for a moment, how can a 20lb cans of rhino lining add 200lbs once it is dry??? That is the weirdest notion. I hear everyone saying how wait it puts on, but each gallon might weigh 10lbs at best??? It doesn't absorb water, your average truck after a bed has been sprayed doesn't weight 200-300lbs more so why would a boat that is lined? Really curious???
Gringo, it looks awesome, you got some talent- interested in doing mine???? lol I am thinking something similar and just haven't made up my mind as of yet, I like the diamond plate and like stated doesn't need too many days to mellow out and clean up is super easy. The vinyl, does get black grit in it all the time and fish parts, blood etc. That sometimes doesn't come off so easily.. But of course I get liquid sunshine most of the year and need a tan under my chin anyhow...