Post by: huntandjeep on February 24, 2014, 04:59:55 PM
Post by: jackelope on February 24, 2014, 05:02:27 PM
Post by: Woodchuck on February 24, 2014, 05:07:54 PM
Post by: Bill W on February 24, 2014, 05:12:02 PM
Post by: Skillet on February 24, 2014, 05:15:42 PM
What will REALLY get you the best deal is if you bring in your own pre-approved credit union financing, do your homework on the vehicles you are interested in, know what the private party sales are for the same rigs on Craigslist, and don't talk about your trade in (if you have one) until you have negotiated the price of the deal without the trade. Dealers HATE that... :chuckle:
Post by: jackelope on February 24, 2014, 05:16:21 PM
Cash in hand will make them listen to your offer a lot closer. :twocents:
I disagree. I think dealers(new/used dealerships anyway) like to be able to sell financing too. They'll make money in the "back screen" that way. Cash deal removes that ability. I think some cash shows them you're serious, but all cash is a loser for the dealer....especially with the competition the online market gives them. It favors the customer greatly.
Post by: jackelope on February 24, 2014, 05:17:17 PM
go thru Costco to the dealers they recommend. Low prices and no haggling required.
That works really well, but for new cars only.
Post by: BigD on February 24, 2014, 05:17:39 PM
Post by: BigD on February 24, 2014, 05:19:58 PM
Post by: Bean Counter on February 24, 2014, 05:20:46 PM
when shopping, the biggest tip I can say is to look mostly disinterested. Don't get overly excited and act like you aren't sold on the car. You can do this without lying to them, which I find disingenuous ("Oh well I've got somebody else offering me the same truck for $1,000 less" etc).
You can nitpick about faults on the vehicle, but there is a tasteful and a distasteful way to do this. I learned this the hard way ("Well if you don't like it, don't buy it!").
If you have a good relationship with a mechanic they should be willing to put it up on the rack and take a look underneath, for little or not cost.
Best wishes.
Post by: 3nails on February 24, 2014, 05:23:08 PM
Post by: Special T on February 24, 2014, 05:24:44 PM
IMO you can often get a better "deal" on CL but have to have cash, be patient and pay for the rig to be looked over, or bring a Mech with you... Thats what i do since my bro is a Mech... If you require financing may as look at car lots, pre approved with your financing at the end of the month. :twocents:
Post by: BigD on February 24, 2014, 05:25:34 PM
Post by: Heredoggydoggy on February 24, 2014, 05:40:47 PM
Post by: mountainman on February 24, 2014, 05:51:10 PM
Post by: C-Money on February 24, 2014, 05:55:45 PM
Post by: h2ofowlr on February 24, 2014, 06:02:46 PM
If your on a time schedule they got you. If you have all day, they squirm or will tell you no.
Post by: ghosthunter on February 24, 2014, 06:10:10 PM
I also let them know that I do not have to have the rig they have. On new rigs I may even refuse to drive them until they reach a deal.
Be 100% ready to walk on any deal they start messing with you.
My wife can crunch numbers in her head, she sees right through bait and switch numbers. She has bought me three rigs and two for herself.
When they quote a price check it on line. She got 4000.00 off a price they quoted when we discovered the rig we were looking at on the same dealers web site $4000.00 cheaper. She held them to their ad and got more off.
She decides her down payment and the monthly she wants and intrest. She tells them right off the bat. I once saw her get up and leave on a .69 difference , they caught her at the door begged her back and she got it her way.
She has saved us thousands.
They want you to fall in love with their rig. Don't do it.
One time she had three trucks in play at one time. The dealers were calling her at home. She never acted too eager and never went to them unless they were really willing to come down on price.
Over the years we have walked out of six or seven deals because they started to blow smoke up her skirt. One time we had 5,000.00 cash on the table picked it up and left when the sales manager changed the payments,
Play hardball.
Post by: Rick on February 24, 2014, 06:14:56 PM
I'd do it all online. Make an educated offer for what you feel the vehicle is worth based on other price comparisons. Don't even go to the dealer. Do it all online.
That's the only way to roll. Sitting at the dealer all day is playing right into their hands.
Email all the local dealers and tell them you'll buy when you get the deal you want. Let them fight it out amongst themselves.
Post by: Rick on February 24, 2014, 06:16:49 PM
Cash in hand will make them listen to your offer a lot closer. :twocents:
Cash is no longer king. Dealers get kickbacks from banks and financing. Not to mention most rebates are dependent on you financing the vehicle.
Post by: BigD on February 24, 2014, 06:22:00 PM
Locally, with the Town auto group (who I have done alot of work for in the past, bought many vehicles, maybe 8-10 over the years) and who I make friends with and refer anyone looking for a new/used vehicle...I tell them my offer, always accepted, and most of the time they volunterally offer half off most vehicles!! Since being close to the program, I know what kind of markup they have and usually they want to move more by the end of the month, so that is when I shop! Great customer service and great guys also!! :tup:
" most of the time they volunterally offer half off most vehicles"
What in the world are you doing to get this kind of deal?
Post by: gasman on February 24, 2014, 06:32:11 PM
Know the Value of the vehicle, Wholesale, Retail and Private Party Pricing.
DO NOT USE KBB, ONLY NADA.
Dealers will quote KBB for sale price and use NADA for trade in. KBB is over inflated and NADA is more closer to PP sale price.
Be preapproved from your financial institute, dealers get kickbacks from doing the financing through the dealership and always try to UP SELL (ext. warranty, Oil changes, etc.)
once a vehicle is found, get the info off of it, compare pricing and contact your Financial Institute and have them look up the value for you. (exampl, BECU has there own Blue Book on Vehicles, boats, etc)
Stick to your guns, and dont let them dictate how the deal is going to go down.
Start lower then you bottom dollar and let them talk you up to YOUR predetermined pricing.
Good Luck.....
For me, making the deal is half the FUN.....
Post by: Kittman on February 24, 2014, 06:53:35 PM
Post by: Hunterman on February 24, 2014, 06:58:27 PM
Hunterman(Tony)
Post by: Westside88 on February 24, 2014, 07:01:26 PM
Post by: Bofire on February 24, 2014, 07:40:46 PM
Tell them they get one shot, one offer, then you walk out.
DO NOT HAGGLE, make them deal your way or no way.
Do not present ID, or tell them credit limits, or talk about trade in, etc, until AFTER the price is set.
Cash means nothing, now days, on new cars, they want to sell a finance package. Do not buy a long warranty.
Carl
Post by: huntandjeep on February 24, 2014, 07:50:09 PM
Post by: huntandjeep on February 24, 2014, 07:53:34 PM
Do your own research, Consumer reports has some good info cheap. Have your credit set up before you shop.Why not tell them my credit limit or trade in until after the price is set?
Tell them they get one shot, one offer, then you walk out.
DO NOT HAGGLE, make them deal your way or no way.
Do not present ID, or tell them credit limits, or talk about trade in, etc, until AFTER the price is set.
Cash means nothing, now days, on new cars, they want to sell a finance package. Do not buy a long warranty.
Carl
Post by: Bofire on February 24, 2014, 07:59:53 PM
They will tell you taking your car on trade is a "favor", a problem to them, BULL.
I will not say they are crooks, they are not, BUT they are in the business to make money.
Post by: BigD on February 24, 2014, 08:01:32 PM
Post by: Skyvalhunter on February 24, 2014, 08:10:59 PM
Post by: Westside88 on February 24, 2014, 08:11:32 PM
Great tips guys thanks . Definitely going to be pre approved from my bank + cash + a paid off trade in. Found a 2012 F350 last night with every option available for $44000 , a lot of the research I found said that truck was probably traded in for between $37000-$39000. Realistically how much would they budge? I was thinking if I got them below $40000 I would be doing good. What about buying in Oregon and living in Washington. I know I will have to pay sales tax when I register it in Washington, but is there a way to add that in to a loan ?Depending on what the trade in is and how much it's worth, you can often do better just selling it outright and leaving it out of the equation. Especially when it's paid for. As far as sales tax I'd talk to the place you plan to finance. I believe you sign a one pay contract when you buy that basically just states they'll be paid by your lender within a certain number of days.
Post by: Rick on February 24, 2014, 08:13:26 PM
Why not tell them my credit limit or trade in until after the price is set?
Because they're like cops. They'll use anything you say against you.
They'll try to work credit limits and trades into the deal in a way that works for them.
Post by: runamuk on February 24, 2014, 08:13:44 PM
My friends with means always walked in with cash in hand and walked out with what they wanted .... and often for a very good deal.
Post by: mountainman on February 24, 2014, 08:14:38 PM
Wouldnt you like to know! LolLocally, with the Town auto group (who I have done alot of work for in the past, bought many vehicles, maybe 8-10 over the years) and who I make friends with and refer anyone looking for a new/used vehicle...I tell them my offer, always accepted, and most of the time they volunterally offer half off most vehicles!! Since being close to the program, I know what kind of markup they have and usually they want to move more by the end of the month, so that is when I shop! Great customer service and great guys also!! :tup:
" most of the time they volunterally offer half off most vehicles"
What in the world are you doing to get this kind of deal?
Post by: mkcj on February 24, 2014, 08:32:20 PM
Post by: jackelope on February 24, 2014, 08:39:04 PM
Dealers don't look at either. They use current day to day auction prices from Mannheim and the like.
Post by: mountainman on February 24, 2014, 08:44:00 PM
Post by: idahohuntr on February 24, 2014, 08:49:07 PM
Like others have noted...I did a ton of research on the internet, test drove a few locally, determined what I believed was a good price on the car she wanted and started looking for dealers within a few hundred miles that had that car with color/options she wanted...made offers too a few of them letting them know I would buy immediately for the right price....but also let them know I did not need to buy right now and I had offers in at other dealerships. Took about 2 days of a few phone calls each day...one thing I did not like was a few dealerships flat refused to put anything about offer details in writing (via email)...which bugged me. Like I was going to drive 300 miles to work out a price based on a mutual understanding of a phone call :chuckle:
Post by: Skillet on February 24, 2014, 09:55:29 PM
Post by: Swannytheswan on February 24, 2014, 10:18:00 PM
:yeah:one thing I did not like was a few dealerships flat refused to put anything about offer details in writing (via email)...which bugged me.
Like going to a website and seeing "Call for pricing". I'm sorry but if you can't tell me what the asking price is I can't figure out how the phone works. Happens all the time with manufacturing equipment and engineering software too :bash: I will never ever do business with companies that don't post their asking price. I don't care how bad I want the product or service!
I tried to buy a truck from a dealership and they wouldn't even give me a price ever all they would say was "how much can you afford a month?" I tried and tried to get them to give me a price they wouldn't do it. I ended up getting frusterated and walked out. They called me later that day as soon as I pick up the phone I said "If you don' t have a price I'm hanging up and they said we don't have a price the bank sets that I said well have the bank call me if you don't know what the price is than why am I talking to you" and hung up
Post by: JLS on February 24, 2014, 10:27:22 PM
:yeah:one thing I did not like was a few dealerships flat refused to put anything about offer details in writing (via email)...which bugged me.
Like going to a website and seeing "Call for pricing". I'm sorry but if you can't tell me what the asking price is I can't figure out how the phone works. Happens all the time with manufacturing equipment and engineering software too :bash: I will never ever do business with companies that don't post their asking price. I don't care how bad I want the product or service!
I tried to buy a truck from a dealership and they wouldn't even give me a price ever all they would say was "how much can you afford a month?" I tried and tried to get them to give me a price they wouldn't do it. I ended up getting frusterated and walked out. They called me later that day as soon as I pick up the phone I said "If you don' t have a price I'm hanging up and they said we don't have a price the bank sets that I said well have the bank call me if you don't know what the price is than why am I talking to you" and hung up
They are banking on you not being smart enough to think ahead as to how much you'll be paying over the life of the loan. Most folks are only worried about their monthly payment, never realizing that they are paying a LOT of money out over a 72 month loan. Then, two years later they can't figure out why they are upside down in their vehicle.
The best thing you can do is get pre approved for financing, figure out what you are willing to pay total and stick to it. I too refuse to play the game of "what you do want your payment to be". I tell them you don't worry about my payment, you worry about giving me a fair deal.
Post by: pianoman9701 on February 25, 2014, 06:53:18 AM
Go back around the 22nd and let the salesman know that you've seen some other vehicles at dealership B that interest you and are cheaper and tell him what they are. Also tell him about nicer vehicles that cost the same as his options. Let him give you a new price and leave without discussing the trade-in.
Call back around the 28th (unless it's February), and set an appointment for the last day of the month. He'll ask if you can come in sooner and you're too busy. On the last day of the month, go in and talk to him. Ask him how good the month has been, in sort of a caring matter-of-fact way. Especially if it's February or March, he'll let you know it's been slow. Then switch to talking about price of the car(s) you want. Make sure you're prepared to sign or pay that day. Tell him you want his absolutely rock bottom price. If the price is good enough, that you're prepared to buy it today. He'll give you the best price. Counter offer 5-10% less (5% on new cars, 10% on used). He'll either accept or counter-offer again. If you like the deal, take it. Now, it's time to work on the trade-in.
You know what the bluebook value of your car is. If it's a piece of junk on it's last legs, you don't have much with which to negotiate. However, if it runs OK and looks pretty good, you have some wiggle room. Add up any options or upgrades you've done. The offer they originally made for trade is usually below the low bluebook figure. Add the value of options and upgrades to the low bluebook value of the car and another 5-10% and ask for that. He'll counter-offer and you'll come back halfway in between. Stick to it. Don't threaten. Make him go back for more and he usually will.
Post by: TheHunt on February 25, 2014, 07:48:06 AM
I purchased a loss leader car (KIA Spectra) for my daughter for $7,400 in 2004. It was a horrible little car but it was good enough no air condition, felt for carpet...
I did my homework for cost. I also found out who was on the selling board for that month. As others have said the sales people get a bonus for selling. Well, I find out who is at the top or someone within two sales and find them out. I ask them if they want to sell this car for this amount to get closer to the leader board. It is a yes or now. AND it is also at the end of the month. The guy was good and was jerking us around so I ordered pizza which came to the sales floor and my wife and I ate it in front of him. When he asked for a slice I said make the deal and the rest of the pizza is yours. He made the deal and it was done...
BUT it sounds like you are looking for used truck. All the content in this thread is pretty accurate for used. Do your homework. Do not be afraid to shake hands, hand the sales person a card with your number and the price you are looking to buy it and walk away. I keep my rigs for a long time so I most always buy new. But doing your homework (NADA, KBB, Edmunds.com, consumer reports, etc.) will provide you the information to make an informative bid as well as points to look where the truck is having difficulty. i.e. Dodge front end steering.
Post by: Taco280AI on February 25, 2014, 08:07:28 AM
Three purchases ago I had to work for it. Sleazy dealership, wanted like $2500 over sticker and showed papers saying why. Advertising, detailing, and on and on and on. Said I had no idea what any of it was and I wanted to look at the sticker. Had looked up invoice prices using Edmunds or something and had an idea what they paid for it, offered a price. They said we can do that, but we'll give you less for your trade. Said no, I'll give you this for your car and want this for my trade. Went back and forth with different offers, said no. Got to the point where they said they just couldn't do it, so thanked them and started walking out. Then they're like well wait and we'll see what we can do. They did it.
If you walk on a lot and they don't know what you want, just say you're browsing around and hadn't really thought about buying. Give them a vague idea of what you want, even if you know exactly which vehicle on your lot you want. Say you want options your vehicle doesn't have, a different color, then when walking by just inquire about the one you know you want. Show a little interest and they'll try to land you on it even though you've known the whole time you want it. If they know you want it they'll hold on to as much profit as they can get. If they think you're settling for it and not crazy for this particular one, more likely to give on the price.
Go towards the evening on a day with bad weather. Less customers, more eager to make a sale.
Post by: magnanimous_j on February 25, 2014, 09:42:34 AM
Forget all that nonsense about not disclosing a trade or credit info or any of that. There are several ways that a dealer can make his money on a car deal. By selling the car at a profit, selling the car at a loss but picking up the trade for cheap, or on the back end (financing, warrantees, service contracts etc.) If he can’t make money any of those ways, and he doesn’t have some other motivation for wanting that particular car gone, he won’t make the deal. Waiting until the very end to bring up a trade works against you, because if you’re even at that point, the dealer has already found one way to make money in the deal, now he has at least two.
Also, we never ran credit without the customer’s written consent. I can’t imagine that it’s even legal, but until we got their SSN, we couldn’t do it anyway. A driver’s license is not enough. We took copies of the license for test drives so if someone piles the car and runs off (which happens), we can track them down.
Cash is worse than financing. We made money off financing, nothing on cash. In fact, you can get better deals by taking financing, paying it a couple months and then paying off the loan. I’ve never even seen a loan with a pre-payment penalty. Getting financing with a credit union ahead of time is a great option, but the factory banks can offer better incentives. So if Ford offers an extra 1000 off the car to finance with them, take it, pay the balance for a couple months and then refinance with the credit union of your choice. I personally like BECU and First Tech.
As far as back office products, warrantees can be valuable, but almost everything else is worthless. We sold stickers with the VIN number on them that went on all these parts that supposedly made the car easier to track if it got stolen and chopped. These cost 300 dollars. Things like aftermarket leather, sunroofs, head rest DVD player etc, never look or work as well as factory options.
The one “common knowledge” car tip that is absolutely correct is shop at the end of the month. Most dealerships pay unit bonuses to their salesmen, so they are extra motivated then. There were times where I would have given the car away if they had let me. Because even though I was only making a mini (minimum commission, usually $100), it was worth a couple grand to me because I would hit the next commission tier which was retroactive for the whole month. In the middle of the week, or in bad weather are good times to go. They might be more motivated to sell, if for no other reason than sheer boredom. On a drizzly November Tuesday, you might be the only customer the salesman talks to that whole day.
Many customers would bring their car freshly washed with a shot glass worth of gas in the tank. This instantly told me that they had every intention of trading it in, that day. Don’t do that. Side note, a lot of the trades were absolutely disgusting. What the hell do people do in these cars?
Buying used cars is trickier than buying new, for sure. Unless you have access to Mannheim, it’s impossible to know what the dealership paid for the car. Best thing to do is price it against comparable cars being sold elsewhere. Cars very seldom have more than 3 or 4 thousand dollars in built in profit in the price, so don’t bother offering half price. Most reputable dealers will provide a car fax for you. I like to find the cars with fender benders on them. If the accident is bad, it will say “airbag deployed” or something to that effect. But a car with a minor accident can scare off a lot of customers, so you can make a more aggressive offer and if the car was repaired correctly, it’s as good as new.
A lot of used cars will have dead batteries, or flat tires. This is not necessarily an indication that there is a larger problem, but it is an indication that the car has been sitting for awhile. You can be more aggressive in your offer.
Here is an actual secret that I doubt many people know. Do you know why the salesman always has to go talk to his manager? It’s because he doesn’t know how much they own the car for, so he doesn’t know how close he is to making a deal. His job is to take the counter-offer to the customer and gauge his reaction to it and then relay that information to the manager. What the salesman tells the manager partially determines what the manager does next. This is why being standoffish, poker faced, or overly aggressive works against you. If I didn’t think we were close to making a deal, I might say to the manager “This guy is a jack, he isn’t buying anything, let’s get him out of here” and the manager will lose interest in making a deal with you. However, if the salesman likes you, he’ll go to bat for you. “He’s really close to doing it, but he’ll walk if we offer over 250/month again. Let’s just do 240 and make this deal.” As much as emotion plays a big part in buying a car, it plays just as big a part in selling one. Negotiating is exciting and in the heat of the moment, a sales manager can get talked into making a better deal than he usually would. A salesman sells his manager just as much as he sells his customers, so make friends.
Post by: Bean Counter on February 25, 2014, 11:17:14 AM
....Can make it simple and smooth. Play dealerships against each other, even if they're really not. ......
There are plenty of good deals to be had without lying to people. I find honesty to be the best policy. Even if my a salesman is not honest. This is treating people the way I want to be treated. :twocents:
Post by: Kittman on February 25, 2014, 11:24:40 AM
Some good info in this thread, and some really wonky info. I sold cars for 5 years, here is some of what I picked up.
Also, we never ran credit without the customer’s written consent. I can’t imagine that it’s even legal, but until we got their SSN, we couldn’t do it anyway. A driver’s license is not enough. We took copies of the license for test drives so if someone piles the car and runs off (which happens), we can track them down.
Disagree with the above statement- Credit checks can be performed with just a driver's license.
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2009/09/car-dealers-can-use-your-drivers-license-to-access-your-credit-report/index.htm (http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2009/09/car-dealers-can-use-your-drivers-license-to-access-your-credit-report/index.htm)
Post by: DOUBLELUNG on February 25, 2014, 11:51:20 AM
My last purchase was a 2009 Dodge Ram 1500 crew cab 4x4 SLT package. I made my best deal over the phone for exactly what I wanted with Dave Smith, right down to every option code. MSRP was almost exactly $38k, Dave Smith was at $27,600 financed by them. I called the sales manager at my local Dodge dealer, told him exactly what I wanted, and asked him if he wanted to save me a trip to Kellogg. He said "I don't lose business to those guys". I gave him all the codes for what I wanted, and he told me the three closest they had on the lot. I picked the one that suited me best, and he asked what I thought about $31k. I told him I thought I'd be driving to Kellogg.
He then asked me if I would finance through them, and come down today if we could agree on price; I told him yes. He said "$25,995". I said I'll be down, was there 15 minutes later and drove the truck away 2 hours later. He could have gone as high as $28.2, since it was worth $600 to me to not drive to Kellogg. I financed through them (with GMAC ironically) at 6.99%, and then refinanced it for the same loan term through my credit union later at 2.99%.
I had to go with an aftermarket Blue tooth, and settle for Stone White instead of Brilliant Blue. I am sure my sale was putting them into another tier, I don't think they made any money on the unit they sold me but it was worth it to move another unit. That was just under 69% of MSRP.
I've bought 3 other new vehicles previous, just doing the phone and internet thing; all three of those were 15-16% below MSRP, so we think that is around what they need to get normally w/o considering sales volume. By shopping the end of the month, and being willing to take a few months to buy a new truck, we doubled the savings.
Post by: magnanimous_j on February 25, 2014, 12:10:41 PM
Some good info in this thread, and some really wonky info. I sold cars for 5 years, here is some of what I picked up.
Also, we never ran credit without the customer’s written consent. I can’t imagine that it’s even legal, but until we got their SSN, we couldn’t do it anyway. A driver’s license is not enough. We took copies of the license for test drives so if someone piles the car and runs off (which happens), we can track them down.
Disagree with the above statement- Credit checks can be performed with just a driver's license.
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2009/09/car-dealers-can-use-your-drivers-license-to-access-your-credit-report/index.htm (http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2009/09/car-dealers-can-use-your-drivers-license-to-access-your-credit-report/index.htm)
Huh. Learn something new every day. Well, we never ran anyone's credit without permission.
The other little thing I forgot to say, is check for yourself what the factory incentives are. They change all the time and sometimes the factory would forget to tell us. Seriously.
Post by: jackmaster on February 25, 2014, 12:14:03 PM
Post by: fish vacuum on February 25, 2014, 12:53:33 PM
i didnt read all the post but the best way to haggle is to have cash in hand, you can save thousands with cash in hand, money talks BIGTIME :tup:
Not any more. As pointed out a couple times already, they benefit from you financing.
One time when I was truck shopping I thought I was at an advantage because I was paying cash. At the start of negotiating with a salesman I mentioned that I was serious about buying and would make their job easy by writing a check. He said, "Or we can do 10 minutes of paperwork and get money from a bank. Doesn't matter to us."
If buying private party then cash DOES help. Craigslist ads get replies from tons of flakes wanting to know if they can make payments, or if the seller will hold the vehicle until payday, or if the seller will take trades. The last time I sold a vehicle on craigslist, I got a ton of responses from flakes. I sold that truck to the first person that sounded serious.
Post by: Rick on February 25, 2014, 04:35:43 PM
i didnt read all the post but the best way to haggle is to have cash in hand, you can save thousands with cash in hand, money talks BIGTIME :tup:
Not any more. As pointed out a couple times already, they benefit from you financing.
Not to mention,a lot of times rebates and incentives are tied to financing a vehicle.
Post by: vandeman17 on February 25, 2014, 04:38:57 PM
Post by: jackelope on February 25, 2014, 04:58:06 PM
Go to Dave Smith. They are the enemy but man, they do sell for good prices.
Post by: stevemiller on February 25, 2014, 05:04:03 PM
Post by: huntandjeep on February 25, 2014, 05:11:02 PM
Post by: stevemiller on February 25, 2014, 05:13:12 PM
Post by: grousetracker on February 25, 2014, 05:19:36 PM
Post by: BigD on February 25, 2014, 05:39:27 PM
OK so after researching more the dealership has the truck listed at $44000 , KBB value is $35500 , NADA value is $40000 these are both good condition trade in value ( assume dealerships use good and not excellent condition) . Same year trucks with less options and more miles are anywhere from $43000-$46500. Would $38000 be a good offer , should I start lower? I would pay a max $40000. Allen
I think I would start around 35,000. With that said I never feel I have to drive that vehicle home.
Post by: huntandjeep on February 25, 2014, 05:59:35 PM
I would start at 30k to let him understand that you know whats up.You dont care about the salesmans commission do you?. No I don't care about there commission.
Post by: Bofire on February 25, 2014, 06:31:20 PM
Carl
Post by: huntandjeep on February 25, 2014, 06:56:16 PM
. Its like asking yer girl friend for ****, you can't hear YES, unless you ask!! :chuckle:. :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:
Carl
Post by: jackelope on February 25, 2014, 08:09:09 PM
OK so after researching more the dealership has the truck listed at $44000 , KBB value is $35500 , NADA value is $40000 these are both good condition trade in value ( assume dealerships use good and not excellent condition) . Same year trucks with less options and more miles are anywhere from $43000-$46500. Would $38000 be a good offer , should I start lower? I would pay a max $40000. Allen
Dealerships pay -zero- -zilch- -nada- -no- attention at all whatsoever to what KBB or NADA says for vehicle values. If it's a 6.7L Super Duty they're hard to find. I'd say you'll have a hard time getting them to unload it for much less than what they're asking for it. I think 40 might be realistic, just be prepared to walk away if they won't go for it.
Post by: jackelope on February 25, 2014, 08:10:18 PM
Post by: wafisherman on February 25, 2014, 08:13:59 PM
Depending on the vehicle and how in demand it is, you can expect to pay a little (or sometimes a LOT for a really hot in demand car) over invoice, or if they are really trying to move the car, you can get WELL BELOW invoice. See who will give you the best deal, then give them each a chance to beat the best deal. When the dust settles, agree on the deal over email, print it, bring it in, and speak to the same person you dealt with over email. Sign up for the financing (just to get the better deal since they make money off that) and as soon as you drive it home, write your check to pay off the entire loan. Financing a car is just a waste of money. I remember one time years ago paying over $400 a month for 4 year old rig. Will never do that again. Buy what you can afford!
Post by: jackelope on February 25, 2014, 08:14:51 PM
I would start at 30k to let him understand that you know whats up.You dont care about the salesmans commission do you?. No I don't care about there commission.
If higher mile'd, lesser option'd vehicles are going for more money what makes you think they'll even give you the time of day walking in with an offer $14k less than what they're asking?
We just sold a low miles 2005 6.0L King Ranch for $27k. It was on the lot for literally 1 day. We put $4k into repairs(at our price) before it hit the lot. My point is....a pos 6.0 brought all the money and then some in 1 day. A 6.7 is not gonna go cheap.
Post by: wafisherman on February 25, 2014, 08:16:50 PM
Post by: Bean Counter on February 25, 2014, 08:46:40 PM
Post by: jackelope on February 25, 2014, 08:48:32 PM
:yike: Hot damn! thats a lot of money for a rolling box of rust.
As they go, this truck was very nice. But I agree..,a ton of $$ for a 6.0L.
Post by: Skillet on February 25, 2014, 09:22:24 PM
If you can buy a 6.0 at a deep discount before it suffered real damage (should be easy to do with their rep), you are way ahead of the game.
Post by: Skillet on February 25, 2014, 09:26:49 PM
Also, I would never trade in a vehicle. I KNOW I can sell it myself for much more than they will give me.
Too many people get caught up in the game and end up upside down in their rig when they trade, so they need to roll the negative equity into the new loan. Saw it a lot when I was in the biz.
Post by: Taco280AI on March 01, 2014, 06:30:18 PM
2014.5 Camry SE Sport for $4300 off sticker ($1k below invoice) with a fair price on my trade :tup:
Post by: wafisherman on March 01, 2014, 07:00:40 PM
lots of good stuff here:
http://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/ (http://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/)
Post by: huntandjeep on March 01, 2014, 07:18:52 PM
Post by: yorketransport on March 02, 2014, 04:33:55 PM
Dealers will get a real quote from a bank to finance you and will come back and look you in the eye and tell you rate that is higher. If you bite, they will split the difference over the life of the loan with the bank. Say they get a quote for 6%. If they can sell you on 8% the difference is 2 %. So the bank and the dealer each get 1% interest over the life of the loan. On a $30,000 loan over 6 years, that is a big chunk of money, over $1,500 that you are only paying because they lied to you and you believed them.
:yike: I won't touch any vehicle loan with interest above 3%. New or used, cars, trucks, boats, doesn't matter. First person to throw 6% at me is going to get laughed at as I walk out!
My advice, never give a monthly payment; they'll just adjust the terms to match your payment. Never give a price range; they'll just push you to the upper limit or beyond. Always negotiate the price of the vehicle and the value of your trade separately. The two are not connected, but rather two separate transactions.
My favorite trick is to buy the vehicle at dealer A from dealer B's lot. With the last commercial truck I bought, Dealer B had the truck I wanted, but I didn't like the salesman. He didn't know the product and he didn't take me serious when I walked in there, but knew about a special rebate that my company qualified for. Dealer A knew his stuff and wanted the sale, but was $8K off on the price. I told him that I would rather buy the truck from him, but Dealer B had the vehicle and the price right. They ended up doing a dealer to dealer trade for the truck I wanted. It took 2 days, but I got the truck I wanted for $27K instead of the $40K asking price, and I got it from the dealer that I liked.
Andrew
Post by: follow maggie on March 02, 2014, 09:14:25 PM
Post by: Taco280AI on March 02, 2014, 09:17:46 PM
Post by: jackmaster on March 03, 2014, 07:00:23 AM
Sometimes you can get more $$$ off if you finance. My trade was worth more than the car I just bought, but by having them cut me a check for half the value of the truck and putting the other half toward the car and financing the rest, I got another $500 off for the military discount. Only got it through financing. Then can just pay it off when I feel like it and keep the other $500congrats taco and good luck in germany.... stay safe up there :tup:
Post by: magnanimous_j on March 03, 2014, 07:29:08 AM
Treat it like a business transaction, because that's what it is. Too many people get emotionally invested in a new vehicle and beat themselves on it. Be ready to walk away like others have said. I like to pay cash and I always get a good price. I pay a fair price, the dealer makes some money and the sales person makes some commission. Being fair to the sales person also speeds up the process- when I bought my f-150 it took about 90 minutes
This is the truth. People like to make it one big confrontation, and all that does is slow everything down.
Buying a new car is super easy, unless it's a brand new, really popular or rare car, just do this. Ask for the invoice, subtract any applicable incentives off of the invoice (not msrp), then add 300 dollars and offer that. They'll come back higher and then you settle somewhere between 400-500 over invoice (if the car is under 30 grand, or 5-1000 over if the car is more than 30,) minus rebates and there you go. Then if everything goes smoothly, slip the salesman a hundred in cash when no one is looking and he'll take care of you for life.
People who tipped me got all sorts of perks. Extra floormats, maybe a paint touch up pen, their car magically ended up at the front of the line for finance or detailing on a busy Saturday, etc.
Post by: TommyH on March 03, 2014, 09:53:27 AM
Post by: Igottanewknee on March 03, 2014, 02:02:33 PM
Post by: JohnVH on March 05, 2014, 08:29:04 AM
Post by: xxlx7 on March 06, 2014, 07:54:59 PM
Decline any "Test Drives" they may offer, especially if it involves them photo copying your driver's license. Their back room associate will immediately be performing a sleazy credit check and will put you at a serious bargaining disadvantage.
I don't know what dealers your going to, but I've been in sales/service since 2005 and have never even heard of this. The copying of a drivers license onto a demo permit is for insurance liability only because if you get in an accident and you are driving one of my vehicles, you are to be held responsible.
hiding the trade- DON'T DO THIS- reason for it, its not that we hate it, but sometimes customers want more money than their vehicle is worth, and we will take profit off of the sale price of the vehicle and add it to the value of the trade to get the number to where you need for banking purposes. Most people who come in are upside down in their loan to value ratio on their current vehicle.
Internet is a great resource, do your research, like most have said, see what comparable vehicles are going for price wise and how they are equipped. I've sold thousands of vehicles, and I've always found that customers are happiest when they understand the vehicle purchasing process, clarity of a process is a must with any sales person I talk to, if I see anything fishy, I would walk the other way, they will "turn" you to either another sales guy or their floor manager. Stick to your guns on a price you want, sometimes you won't be able to get there, you need to realize they are a business too, everyone needs to make a profit, no they don't need to make 10000, but they need to make something.
Certified vehicles are a great purchase for used vehicles, Toyota offers a warranty of 7 years or 100000 miles from original date of purchase, and durring my service process, they have to meet certain standards on tire tread, brakes and lots of other stuff to be certified.
Everyone knows dealers ask the world, its just like a consumer offering peanuts, dealers can always go down, but never back up, and consumers can always go up, but never back down. Be honest with your sales guy, and if you feel you have negotiated a deal your happy with, go for it.
I've had customers pay me profits on deals when I told them they can get it for less because the process was clear and fun, look for that. I have customers that come see me in the service department where i work that i sold car's and trucks to in 2005 because they had such a good experience, enjoy buying a new to you rig, they are big purchases and should be a great enjoyable time!!!
Post by: aaronoto on March 16, 2014, 03:05:54 PM
Ive been dealing a bunch with them lately to get a couple new to me, used rigs.. they wont deal at all, cash or not, they don't budge on their prices a dollar, and low ball me on mine. Getting tired of walking out on them. They just are not very hungry these days for some reason.
I've noticed the same and I've purchased two new cars in the last 3 years and traded in a car on one of those deals. I think some of it depends on what brand you're looking at, seems like Toyota and Honda are always less willing to wheel and deal than the other brands. While the new car market seems to be turning around, used cars are in high demand and dealerships are paying good money for them. I traded in my 2009 Toyota Tacoma with over 100,000 miles when I bought my Tundra and they gave me $20,000 for it, and no I didn't get ripped off on the Tundra either. They listed my Tacoma for about $2,000 over what they paid me and it wasn't around for long.
Post by: TommyH on February 04, 2015, 10:06:22 AM
Had to re-read and bring this thread back since I will be looking to -not get ripped off on a "new to me" used car. Lots of info in here that may help save $$$$. Trying to learn as much as possible before hand.