Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: rasbo on February 27, 2014, 04:42:13 AM
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I'm not a mechanic at all but I am going to replace my front wheel bearing,wondering what the torque is on the wheel nut and other bolts,,,,any help would be greatly appreciated
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Four-Wheel Drive
The four-wheel drive 2000 Silverado's front bearings are pressed into the hub. There are four bolts that hold the hub and bearing into place. These four bolts require 133 foot-pounds of torque. In the process of replacing this bearing, the wheel speed sensor is removed as well. This sensor's bolt must be torqued to 106 inch-pounds.
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Four-Wheel Drive
The four-wheel drive 2000 Silverado's front bearings are pressed into the hub. There are four bolts that hold the hub and bearing into place. These four bolts require 133 foot-pounds of torque. In the process of replacing this bearing, the wheel speed sensor is removed as well. This sensor's bolt must be torqued to 106 inch-pounds.
thanks so much,now the big nut that goes on after the bearing assembly does that need to be torqued :tup: :tup: :tup:
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Usually on those its a matter of tightening it down till it's snug and the wheel still spins freely without too much resistance and of coarse you dont want any play in it. People usually tighten it down to seat the bearings(20 FT lbs) then loosen it.
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Usually on those its a matter of tightening it down till it's snug and the wheel still spins freely without too much resistance and of coarse you dont want any play in it. People usually tighten it down to seat the bearings(20 FT lbs) then loosen it.
Its not for loading a bearing. Thats preset. I think its 165ft. lbs. but would have to check.
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Looks like 155 ft. lbs.
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Buy a Chiltons manual for your truck. It will have the disassembly and reassembly step by step. They also give all the torque specs at the end of each chapter. I like to write down the ones I use often on the back of the front cover. :tup:
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I would like to hear a follow up to this. I have the same truck 1500 and have avoided this since they are pressed in. Curious to see how difficult you thought this was. I do most of my own work so I'm somewhat capable of repairs.
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I would like to hear a follow up to this. I have the same truck 1500 and have avoided this since they are pressed in. Curious to see how difficult you thought this was. I do most of my own work so I'm somewhat capable of repairs.
If it's a 4x4, it's a hub assembly...not a wheel bearing and it's not pressed in. With some hand tools it's very straight forward to replace these. It's a super common problem that GM has with these hubs wearing out and making noise. So bad that I'm pretty sure that a replacement hub purchased from the dealer has a lifetime warranty on it. Labor time says 1.3 hours per side. I've replaced 3 on each side of my truck. They suck, but I can do them in my sleep now.
Torque is 177 ft lbs.
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I would like to hear a follow up to this. I have the same truck 1500 and have avoided this since they are pressed in. Curious to see how difficult you thought this was. I do most of my own work so I'm somewhat capable of repairs.
If it's a 4x4, it's a hub assembly...not a wheel bearing and it's not pressed in. With some hand tools it's very straight forward to replace these. It's a super common problem that GM has with these hubs wearing out and making noise. So bad that I'm pretty sure that a replacement hub purchased from the dealer has a lifetime warranty on it. Labor time says 1.3 hours per side. I've replaced 3 on each side of my truck. They suck, but I can do them in my sleep now.
Torque is 177 ft lbs.
Thanks, It is a 4x4. I have not had any issues and have a lot of miles on them. Everyone I know with this truck has had problems and I've been thinking about changing these out. I was told that the bearings are pressed in and I do not have the tools to handle that. I have seen the hub assembly when I was researching this and that didn't look to difficult to replace. Funny this came up I was under the truck yesterday checking this out.
Thanks for the information. Nice to bounce questions off of others sometimes.
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When they go bad, you'll know it. Humming type noise, it will get louder when you turn one way or the other with the weight of the truck shifting. I wouldn't bother replacing them if they're not making noise unless it happens to be apart for something else...you never know what you're going to get. The aftermarket ones are just as bad or worse than the GM ones.
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Thanks again. I've had them go bad in other vehicles just not this truck yet. It always seems to be 30 miles down some road that no one has been down in 40 years. That happened a few years back with the fuel pump during turkey season. :)
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On a 3/4 ton I'm pretty sure the wheel studs are pressed through the hub and rotor. So they have to be pressed in and out. The rotor won't just pull off. I know my 98 was like that. I bet the newer ones are too. Not a bad jobif you have a press. I've beat them out and sucked them back in with an impact but a press is way better and easier.
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Nope, you get new wheel studs with a new hub unit, rotor slips on and off. :tup:
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Nope, you get new wheel studs with a new hub unit, rotor slips on and off. :tup:
Right-O on this one...the 98 would have been the way HntnFish mentioned.
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Like woodchuck said it will come with new studs.
Complete hub unit, it will have new studs, abs sensor and harness already installed so just unplug and plug in there.
No pressing required but the old unit might be a little stubborn to get off, a little muscle/persuasion might be needed
Hub to knuckle bolts 133ftlbs
Axle nut 177ftlbs
Caliper pin bolts 80ftlbs.
Defiantly buy a good unit, GM, or the Moog ones are pretty good.
I have not seen any of the good quality ones with a lifetime warranty like jackelope mentioned but he may know something i don't (usually the cheapy ones boost the lifetime warranty).
Not super hard job to do at home
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When they go bad, you'll know it. Humming type noise, it will get louder when you turn one way or the other with the weight of the truck shifting. I wouldn't bother replacing them if they're not making noise unless it happens to be apart for something else...you never know what you're going to get. The aftermarket ones are just as bad or worse than the GM ones.
That was how it worked for me .....
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I have not seen any of the good quality ones with a lifetime warranty like jackelope mentioned but he may know something i don't (usually the cheapy ones boost the lifetime warranty).
I can't confirm or deny...my buddy was a Chevy dealer service advisor. He told me if I bought my hubs from GM dealer, they'd have a lifetime warranty on them. I never tried to buy them.
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Nope, you get new wheel studs with a new hub unit, rotor slips on and off. :tup:
thats right,my truck has 230 thousand on it first problem with bearings knock on wood,Thanks so much guys it been a real help
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Jim- the problem is much more common on the 1500 half ton trucks.
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Jim- the problem is much more common on the 1500 half ton trucks.
I am suprised mine went this long,I have about80 grand of dirt road on it...
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196k on my half ton. I've done 3 on each side.
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196k on my half ton. I've done 3 on each side.
wow,thats a lot..got it done yesterday.Im smiling now thanks for the help everyone