Post by: Smossy on March 30, 2014, 09:34:14 PM
I need advice on DECENT bikes, Dont gotta be amazing but I dont want them falling apart/breaking in a week of owning them either.
Something for mild offroading, Dirt/Gravel Trails, DNR Roads, etc.
What to stay away from as far as brakes/gears/frames.
Post by: JKEEN33 on March 30, 2014, 09:44:20 PM
Post by: washelkhunter on March 30, 2014, 09:49:35 PM
Post by: Smossy on March 30, 2014, 09:52:31 PM
Find out what size you need. From there you have tons of options. I've had a trek 8000 for for about 16 years and it's still going strong. The better components you get the more you are going to like the bike. Going to cheap is wasting your time. There are some great deals on used bikes out there.Yeah I don't need it to last me a lifetime, I just need something for me and the girl to get started. Get into shape, Scout out a few spots, Explore roads we normally wouldnt walk down.
Post by: JLS on March 30, 2014, 09:56:07 PM
I'm like JKeen33. I have a 17 year old GT Avalanche. One of these years I'll upgrade, probably when I break it to the point it's not worth fixing.
I'd try to stay away from the grip twist shifters and find something with the thumb lever shifters. With the current craze of 29" rims, you can probably find some 26ers pretty cheap.
Post by: Smossy on March 30, 2014, 10:02:48 PM
Start scouring Craigslist. There are a ton of bikes on there. I'd get front suspension, don't worry about rear. If you want to use a trailer with it I'd try to find one with disc brakes.I think I'm more partial to the 26" rims. I feel like If I stopped with 29" rims Ill fall over. lol
I'm like JKeen33. I have a 17 year old GT Avalanche. One of these years I'll upgrade, probably when I break it to the point it's not worth fixing.
I'd try to stay away from the grip twist shifters and find something with the thumb lever shifters. With the current craze of 29" rims, you can probably find some 26ers pretty cheap.
Post by: jackelope on March 30, 2014, 10:06:43 PM
Post by: Smossy on March 30, 2014, 10:09:59 PM
Another nod for a 17 year old fly green Trek bike. Front suspension. Bombproof.26" tires, Front suspension, Thumb gear shifters, and no need for disk brakes really unless excessive off-roading or hauling a trailer...?
Post by: jackelope on March 30, 2014, 10:15:29 PM
Another nod for a 17 year old fly green Trek bike. Front suspension. Bombproof.26" tires, Front suspension, Thumb gear shifters, and no need for disk brakes really unless excessive off-roading or hauling a trailer...?
Agreed. Mine has the twister shifters but I could see preferring thumb shifters. It wouldn't be a deal breaker though if the price was right.
Post by: Smossy on March 30, 2014, 10:27:12 PM
26" Genesis V2100
Full suspension, Could be a good thing?
Thumb gear shifters
Disk brakes
http://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Genesis-V2100-Mountain-Bike-Dual-Suspension-Men-s-Bike/22899847#Product+Reviews (http://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Genesis-V2100-Mountain-Bike-Dual-Suspension-Men-s-Bike/22899847#Product+Reviews)
Post by: Fl0und3rz on March 30, 2014, 10:37:45 PM
And by shopping used, you will get much better frame/components for the money, so longevity would be better than a big box store deal with all the bells and whistles.
Post by: JLS on March 30, 2014, 10:49:42 PM
And by shopping used, you will get much better frame/components for the money, so longevity would be better than a big box store deal with all the bells and whistles.
:yeah:
The components are what break, and what cost you the money to replace. You can abuse the heck out of any frame and it will probably last. Cheap derailers and cranks will = mucho dinero down the road (or trail).
https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/bik/4394313851.html
https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/bik/4360537649.html
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/4399772852.html
https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/bik/4376270151.html
Post by: pope on March 30, 2014, 10:56:07 PM
With all that stuff being said, I think this is what were gonna pick up.
26" Genesis V2100
Full suspension, Could be a good thing?
Thumb gear shifters
Disk brakes
http://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Genesis-V2100-Mountain-Bike-Dual-Suspension-Men-s-Bike/22899847#Product+Reviews (http://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Genesis-V2100-Mountain-Bike-Dual-Suspension-Men-s-Bike/22899847#Product+Reviews)
No no no! That bike is likely to be heavy and equipped with components that will disappoint. Seriously, if you have $400 to spend, take the advice of many here and look for a used bike in that price range. Why? Because a bike that would go for $1200+ new will sell used for half that or less. Look for Shimano XT components (or Sram x-7 or better x-9) as a sign you are getting a high quality bike. If your find one through the web, I'd be happy to review the bike/price before you purchase to let you know if it's a good deal.
Post by: pope on March 30, 2014, 11:00:56 PM
https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/bik/4399842541.html (https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/bik/4399842541.html)
Post by: Lunchbox1981 on March 31, 2014, 12:29:27 AM
Post by: Jellymon on March 31, 2014, 12:39:13 AM
With all that stuff being said, I think this is what were gonna pick up.
26" Genesis V2100
Full suspension, Could be a good thing?
Thumb gear shifters
Disk brakes
http://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Genesis-V2100-Mountain-Bike-Dual-Suspension-Men-s-Bike/22899847#Product+Reviews (http://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Genesis-V2100-Mountain-Bike-Dual-Suspension-Men-s-Bike/22899847#Product+Reviews)
No no no! That bike is likely to be heavy and equipped with components that will disappoint. Seriously, if you have $400 to spend, take the advice of many here and look for a used bike in that price range. Why? Because a bike that would go for $1200+ new will sell used for half that or less. Look for Shimano XT components (or Sram x-7 or better x-9) as a sign you are getting a high quality bike. If your find one through the web, I'd be happy to review the bike/price before you purchase to let you know if it's a good deal.
:yeah: I would get a simple hardtail with v brakes. It will be much cheaper and IMO would make a better hunting bike. If hunting is what you will use it for. Also if youre going to hunt with it I would stay away from disk brakes. They work great but every set ive had have squealed like a cougar in heat when they got wet. And they werent cheap either. :chuckle: Some of the mountain bikes from walmart say right on the frame, "not for offroad use".
Post by: Skyvalhunter on March 31, 2014, 05:15:45 AM
Post by: Buzz2401 on March 31, 2014, 07:42:02 AM
Post by: fly-by on March 31, 2014, 08:01:03 AM
Post by: TheHunt on March 31, 2014, 08:07:16 AM
Jim.
Post by: Holg3107 on March 31, 2014, 08:13:05 AM
Quote
With all that stuff being said, I think this is what were gonna pick up.
26" Genesis V2100
Full suspension, Could be a good thing?
Thumb gear shifters
Disk brakes
http://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Genesis-V2100-Mountain-Bike-Dual-Suspension-Men-s-Bike/22899847#Product+Reviews (http://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Genesis-V2100-Mountain-Bike-Dual-Suspension-Men-s-Bike/22899847#Product+Reviews)
AHHHHHHH!!! NOOOOOOOO!!!! At a $200/bike budget buying a new bike shouldn't even cross your mind. Also stay away from full suspension. Cheap full suspension is nothing more than a gimmick that will break. As mentioned look for components that are: Shimano- Deore (if bike is less than 8 years old) LX, or XT. SRAM: X-7 or better. Craigslist is your friend!!! What I would do is find something that you think looks good on Craigslist and post the link here for opinions. Last but not least, whatever you do, DO NOT BUY THAT BIKE FROM WALMART.
Post by: jackelope on March 31, 2014, 08:42:03 AM
You can do a lot with $200 on Craigslist.
Post by: Buckmark on March 31, 2014, 09:33:04 AM
Skip the rear suspension, works against you when pedaling uphill.
Disc brakes can be noisy and only really needed on long downhills with some weight (ie: a trailer, or a full pack and an animal draped over the seat/bars).
The one thing you will want and has not been mentioned is a new saddle (seat) for which ever bike you get....trust me. :chuckle:
*
Here is a good one..
http://www.yosemitebicycles.com/Saddles.php (http://www.yosemitebicycles.com/Saddles.php)
Post by: Easy-E on March 31, 2014, 10:05:40 AM
Here is a good chart that will get you in the ball park for a frame size:
http://www.ebicycles.com/custom/content_files/ebicycles-bicycle-sizing-chart-mountain-bikes.pdf (http://www.ebicycles.com/custom/content_files/ebicycles-bicycle-sizing-chart-mountain-bikes.pdf)
And a frame size calculator:
http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/mountain-bike (http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/mountain-bike)
There are a lot of YouTube videos on fitting a bike. Its not all that difficult if you have some simple tools. Just go out and pick a video or two to get an understanding of what the fitup needs will be.
Post by: Carl on March 31, 2014, 10:16:59 AM
Post by: Smossy on March 31, 2014, 12:22:47 PM
Post by: Smossy on March 31, 2014, 12:29:39 PM
Post by: JKEEN33 on March 31, 2014, 12:32:36 PM
Post by: ANDERWAGON on March 31, 2014, 12:44:00 PM
Post by: Fl0und3rz on March 31, 2014, 12:45:26 PM
Even at 200.00 a piece . . . .
That ^
Even used, there are some decent bikes out there in/below your range.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/bik/4400750411.html
https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/bik/4392915266.html
https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/bik/4378872950.html
Forget disks and rear suspension (too much expense and probably not within the budget among the other identified drawbacks).
Get measured, determine through internet research, or a friend what size to look for. Then post links of prospects here for comments, then go armed with information and cash.
Don't be afraid to offer less than asking, because often people searching for a bike are in the same predicament you are and would rather it just be an easy trip to the store. That, the fact that what you should be looking for (hard tail and v brakes) has a smaller market, and proper fit can make used bikes hard to move.
Post by: Easy-E on March 31, 2014, 12:45:53 PM
Again. Im talking 400$ for 2 bikes. Not one. So Im not going to be able to get anything fancy for that price. Just throwing that out there.
you can get a heckuvalot of craigslist bike for $200/ea. for what you want to do with it.
Post by: Buckmark on March 31, 2014, 12:46:14 PM
Here is a good deal..
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/4390616997.html (http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/4390616997.html)
Post by: JKEEN33 on March 31, 2014, 12:49:31 PM
Post by: Easy-E on March 31, 2014, 12:54:54 PM
Post by: Becky on March 31, 2014, 01:13:21 PM
I agree with a lot of the posts. Buy used bikes that fit you. Riding a bike that doesn't fit will be miserable and you'll soon quit riding. Do a little research online about how to fit a bike once you've bought one that's the right size. You and SG can work together to adjust the seat, handlebars, etc. Go on some shorter rides and adjust and tweak the fit of the bike until its comfortable.
Here is a good chart that will get you in the ball park for a frame size:
http://www.ebicycles.com/custom/content_files/ebicycles-bicycle-sizing-chart-mountain-bikes.pdf (http://www.ebicycles.com/custom/content_files/ebicycles-bicycle-sizing-chart-mountain-bikes.pdf)
And a frame size calculator:
http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/mountain-bike (http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/mountain-bike)
There are a lot of YouTube videos on fitting a bike. Its not all that difficult if you have some simple tools. Just go out and pick a video or two to get an understanding of what the fitup needs will be.
Mine: http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/mountain-bike/size-sheet?utf8=%E2%9C%93&u=in&r=woman&h=1752.6&i=825.5&b=Calculate (http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/mountain-bike/size-sheet?utf8=%E2%9C%93&u=in&r=woman&h=1752.6&i=825.5&b=Calculate)
One the first link says 18", second looks like it's saying 18.5" for frame size .. both say crank size 175mm.
How do you know how tall of a bike to get or is that not as important as the frame size?
Post by: Buckmark on March 31, 2014, 01:24:28 PM
If getting into some really speciallized bikes or if you are super tall or super short then it becomes more of an issue.
The seats and bars adjust up and down so dont get all caught up in sizing this bike or you will way over think this venture.
*
Most people stop riding bikes for alot of reasons and size is not likely the cause... :twocents:
This is not like buying a pair of boots or a shotgun...
*
That freebie bike looks awsome to start with, pick it up and use it, if you dont like to ride it because of size then make a change (doubt that will happen) if you actually enjoy riding then you can make a decision if you want to spend more money, which i doubt you will need to....
*
The most common things i see or hear from people who set out to ride for hunting then give it up are, 1) the wetside is too wet or thick, no fenders means water and mud all over your back and lower legs, gear and you get wet. 2) It's work, you have to pedal uphill or push it. 3) My butt or back hurts....get a good saddle and adjust the handle bars...
Post by: Easy-E on March 31, 2014, 01:37:52 PM
You just don't want to get a bike that is too small or too large just because its a good bargain. If you were a small framed person or a large framed person it might be more of an issue for you. Sounds like you're pretty typical, so you should have lots of choices while shopping around!
Post by: andersonjk4 on March 31, 2014, 01:40:12 PM
From what I've read the frames are made in the same factories and are the same quality as the big names (trek, giant, specialized). They just put different brand names on them. And they use good quality parts... Shimano, SRAM etc.
I haven't bought a bike from them, but I've been looking into them for awhile now and when my bike craps out this is where I will get my next bike.
Post by: Mxracer532 on March 31, 2014, 01:42:35 PM
Post by: Fl0und3rz on March 31, 2014, 01:46:04 PM
A good rule of thumb for a general use bike is that, with your feet firmly planted and flat on the ground, the crossbar should be a healthy distance from the pelvic valuables.
Bike frames are designed to fit a range of different height people, but the crossbar distance to the pelvic valuables is most crucial for safety. You want to be able to mount and dismount easily without too much standing on your toes.
People of a specific height vary in torso length and inseam.
If the crossbar is of proper height, you want to have enough seat height adjustment so that at full leg extension (or with slightly less, but certainly not with knee locked) when the pedal reaches the bottom of its travel, your foot is not overly extended or retracted (foot should be in a natural resting position).
For proper seat height, I usually adjust so that the tip hits me in the tail bone, for starters, and raise or lower to get proper foot/leg extension at the bottom of the pedal travel.
The next most important frame dimension is the crossbar length. The longer it is, the more bent over you will be when pedaling. There are probably some rules of thumb, but the proper size is likely a subjective thing to a certain degree. Too long, and you will be placing a lot of weight and stress on your hands and wrists and perhaps lower back and stomach. I say subjective, because the right/comfortable riding position can be affected, assuming nearly the right crossbar length, by moving the seat forward/back, or using (or not) a riser stem or handlebars.
But again, mass-produced, general use frames are designed for the most common body size. So the frame size that is appropriate for you likely has about the right length crossbar.
Post by: jackmaster on March 31, 2014, 02:14:40 PM
Post by: Becky on March 31, 2014, 03:20:04 PM
If i remember correctly from meeting you both you both fall into the average height range for most people, that being said most of the bikes in the 26 inch range are built to accomodate those standards and you should be fine..
If getting into some really speciallized bikes or if you are super tall or super short then it becomes more of an issue.
The seats and bars adjust up and down so dont get all caught up in sizing this bike or you will way over think this venture.
*
Most people stop riding bikes for alot of reasons and size is not likely the cause... :twocents:
This is not like buying a pair of boots or a shotgun...
*
That freebie bike looks awsome to start with, pick it up and use it, if you dont like to ride it because of size then make a change (doubt that will happen) if you actually enjoy riding then you can make a decision if you want to spend more money, which i doubt you will need to....
*
The most common things i see or hear from people who set out to ride for hunting then give it up are, 1) the wetside is too wet or thick, no fenders means water and mud all over your back and lower legs, gear and you get wet. 2) It's work, you have to pedal uphill or push it. 3) My butt or back hurts....get a good saddle and adjust the handle bars...
Yea basically average... well I'm on the taller side for women, so not sure if the women's bikes are shorter and I'd need to pay more attention than him.
I'm 5'9 and he's 5'7 :chuckle: :)
Post by: jackmaster on March 31, 2014, 03:25:48 PM
shorty short :chuckle: i feel tall and i am 5'8 :chuckle:If i remember correctly from meeting you both you both fall into the average height range for most people, that being said most of the bikes in the 26 inch range are built to accomodate those standards and you should be fine..
If getting into some really speciallized bikes or if you are super tall or super short then it becomes more of an issue.
The seats and bars adjust up and down so dont get all caught up in sizing this bike or you will way over think this venture.
*
Most people stop riding bikes for alot of reasons and size is not likely the cause... :twocents:
This is not like buying a pair of boots or a shotgun...
*
That freebie bike looks awsome to start with, pick it up and use it, if you dont like to ride it because of size then make a change (doubt that will happen) if you actually enjoy riding then you can make a decision if you want to spend more money, which i doubt you will need to....
*
The most common things i see or hear from people who set out to ride for hunting then give it up are, 1) the wetside is too wet or thick, no fenders means water and mud all over your back and lower legs, gear and you get wet. 2) It's work, you have to pedal uphill or push it. 3) My butt or back hurts....get a good saddle and adjust the handle bars...
Yea basically average... well I'm on the taller side for women, so not sure if the women's bikes are shorter and I'd need to pay more attention than him.
I'm 5'9 and he's 5'7 :chuckle: :)
Post by: Becky on March 31, 2014, 03:28:03 PM
Yea basically average... well I'm on the taller side for women, so not sure if the women's bikes are shorter and I'd need to pay more attention than him.shorty short :chuckle: i feel tall and i am 5'8 :chuckle:
I'm 5'9 and he's 5'7 :chuckle: :)
Lol you feel tall at 5'8, well I feel like an amazon at 5'9 :chuckle:
Post by: jackmaster on March 31, 2014, 03:29:41 PM
thats like jennifer lawrence tall chick :tup: :chuckle:Yea basically average... well I'm on the taller side for women, so not sure if the women's bikes are shorter and I'd need to pay more attention than him.shorty short :chuckle: i feel tall and i am 5'8 :chuckle:
I'm 5'9 and he's 5'7 :chuckle: :)
Lol you feel tall at 5'8, well I feel like an amazon at 5'9 :chuckle:
Post by: swanny on March 31, 2014, 03:42:29 PM
You want to make sure you have clearance over the top tube (stand over) in the range of 2-3" for a MTB. For the top tube reach, you don't want to be to compact or stretched out.
You will be looking at factors of inseam and torso size when sizing and fitting your bike.
As others have already stated, do your self a favor and don't buy from Walmart or Target. If you are truly just going to ride logging roads, rear suspension is no need for you. Disc brakes are a thing of beauty, especially if you can find a deal that has hydraulics. And if you get lucky in your price range, get a 29" wheels, they roll better than 26" wheels, making you go further on less pedal strokes.
IMO, you are better off saving money longer and getting quality, working bikes than going cheap and wishing you had more. If you do go out and get bikes off Craigslist in your price range, make sure you test ride them well and shift through all the gears. A tune up is going to run you $50 a bike at least, and that's if no parts are needed. Make sure there aren't any loud squeaks and creaks that could cost you more down the line. Bikes are like cars, they need oil and grease to in order to run at their peak. An ungreased chain can make pedaling much more difficult and the chain along will run you $20-30 to replace. Which means it's either taking more money from you budget or putting you closer to new bikes. You can get decent new bikes for what you want in the $400 range each. I know it's more than you want to spend, but it might be worth it in the end.
Post by: Smossy on March 31, 2014, 07:51:24 PM
Smossy, I have an older Specialized you can have.Ill take it for sure man.
Basically work 8-5ish Not really a set time just leave when works done, Typically off somewhere around 3-6pm. I work in Seatac but I live in Spanaway/Roy area. Might be able to send my girl out there sometime if need be, She's layed off right now at work so she has free time.
PS. YOUR INBOX IS FULL
Post by: ANDERWAGON on March 31, 2014, 08:27:19 PM
I cleaned up my mail box. We'll make some thing work this week.
Post by: Smossy on April 02, 2014, 07:44:28 PM
Post by: ANDERWAGON on April 02, 2014, 07:55:16 PM
Another day Buddy. Enjoy!
Post by: Karl Blanchard on April 02, 2014, 07:55:35 PM
Post by: kentrek on April 02, 2014, 08:05:47 PM
My hunting bike is has 26 inch tires but for hunting I'm usually going relatively slow with a low seat so it doesn't matter except on pack ins and outs...then it's a all business grind an I miss my 29er
Post by: Smossy on April 05, 2014, 10:07:28 PM
You're welcome... Great meeting you to, sorry I didn't have more time to BS.:tup: Not a big deal, Im sure we will meet up again in the future. Its already been the subject of lots of fun between me and the girl :chuckle: She keeps stealing it from me.
Another day Buddy. Enjoy!
I keep hearing giggles and "weeeeee" come together.
Post by: Old Man Yager on April 11, 2014, 02:56:19 PM
Post by: Smossy on April 19, 2014, 10:43:26 AM
Nice Giant Yukon SE
19.5" 50cm 6061 Aluminum Frame fits 5'7 to 5'11
24 speed trigger shifters
Brand new 8 speed shimano shifter and cable
Shimano Acera Derailers
Side pull brakes with brand new pads
Specialized seat
WTB raptor 26 x 2.0 mountain tires on aluminum wheels
SR Suntour front shock
Post by: DIYARCHERYJUNKIE on April 19, 2014, 11:19:07 AM
Post by: DIYARCHERYJUNKIE on April 20, 2014, 07:49:51 AM
Post by: Smossy on April 20, 2014, 09:08:13 AM
The brand I've never heard of. That's not saying much but the disk break on that one is only on the front tire. The disk brake will help on the way out. Downhill usually. So you'll want it on the back tire. You may be able to swap brakes though.We managed to pick up the GIANT bike for her, It fit her well and rides pretty well. Left front brake and left side gear may need to be replaced is all. Thanks for the advice guys.
Post by: Smossy on April 20, 2014, 10:12:43 AM
Post by: Fl0und3rz on April 20, 2014, 10:59:11 AM
I contacted a local bike shop to see about getting thumb shifters, rear and front disk brakes, and front suspension added to my bike - and disk brakes, new front derailleur and new front suspension to my girls, because there seems to be problems with the shocks Ive read about in the reviews.
Trigger shifters and front suspension should be relatively easy, and they might even have some used take off parts for a decent price.
Disks will be more difficult as wheels, hubs, frame, and front suspension have to be designed for it, or retrofit-able. At that age, the frame, suspension, wheels and hubs are likely not disc ready. And that's where cost of upgrading will easily outpace the cost/value of the older bike. So in the end, you will likely decide that sticking with what you have (v brake versus disc) and saving for another used with disc is the better option. I have been down that road.
If the bike shop tells you otherwise, I'd find another bike shop.
Post by: Smossy on April 20, 2014, 11:25:04 AM
Makes sense, I wasnt aware of that part of the change. I dont REALLY have a problem with V brakes, the ones on my bike stop on a dime and my girls front brakes are kinda soft but the rears work great.I contacted a local bike shop to see about getting thumb shifters, rear and front disk brakes, and front suspension added to my bike - and disk brakes, new front derailleur and new front suspension to my girls, because there seems to be problems with the shocks Ive read about in the reviews.
Trigger shifters and front suspension should be relatively easy, and they might even have some used take off parts for a decent price.
Disks will be more difficult as wheels, hubs, frame, and front suspension have to be designed for it, or retrofit-able. At that age, the frame, suspension, wheels and hubs are likely not disc ready. And that's where cost of upgrading will easily outpace the cost/value of the older bike. So in the end, you will likely decide that sticking with what you have (v brake versus disc) and saving for another used with disc is the better option. I have been down that road.
If the bike shop tells you otherwise, I'd find another bike shop.
Glad to have you guys around :tup:
Post by: DIYARCHERYJUNKIE on April 20, 2014, 03:02:59 PM
Post by: Smossy on April 20, 2014, 08:52:41 PM
Post by: JPhelps on April 20, 2014, 08:55:52 PM
Post by: JLS on April 20, 2014, 09:06:34 PM
DONT change seats. It will go away within a week or two of riding and the narrow uncomfortable seat will be the best.
Agreed. Give your butt time to adapt.
I still ride rim brakes also. They are okay, you just have to know the limitations. I've been on rides before when my rim was too hot to touch after a long downhill, and I could really feel the braking power fade.
If you are going to haul meat on a trailer just be smart and take your time.
Are your shocks adjustable? Some you can add air to them, don't know what kind yours are.
Post by: Smossy on April 20, 2014, 09:12:15 PM
DONT change seats. It will go away within a week or two of riding and the narrow uncomfortable seat will be the best.You serious phelps?
DONT change seats. It will go away within a week or two of riding and the narrow uncomfortable seat will be the best.
Agreed. Give your butt time to adapt.
I still ride rim brakes also. They are okay, you just have to know the limitations. I've been on rides before when my rim was too hot to touch after a long downhill, and I could really feel the braking power fade.
If you are going to haul meat on a trailer just be smart and take your time.
Are your shocks adjustable? Some you can add air to them, don't know what kind yours are.
I dont even have shocks, That's what I mean, Its rough having hard fronts. Just gotta get new front forks with shocks on them and my bike should be good to go. That and thumb shifters, I have twist shifters which work good I just dont like how they take up handle space and they're uncomfortable.
Post by: JLS on April 20, 2014, 09:18:47 PM
Front suspension is one of those must haves.
I hate grip shifters.
Post by: washelkhunter on April 20, 2014, 09:26:57 PM
DONT change seats. It will go away within a week or two of riding and the narrow uncomfortable seat will be the best.
Ugh. Give your toockus and your sex life a break, buy a big comfy saddle for your sittin bones to cushion the never ending rocks and
bumps of those ole FS roads.
Post by: JPhelps on April 21, 2014, 06:26:54 AM
The big cushiony clown seats rub the inside of your legs, prevent you from peddling straight down (power) and It hurt my knees because my legs were flared out at an awkward angle. :twocents:
Post by: Fl0und3rz on April 21, 2014, 09:23:12 AM
Also, I don't know how the bike hunting crowd does it, but a good pair of cushioned shorts go a along way to alleviating the problem as well. I'd expect to wear the shorts for the majority of biking and then change into hunting clothes once the destination is reached. They don't have to be the neon green spandex type either. They make them in all sorts of subdued colors. I have a cargo short type that provides utility and comfort.
Post by: JLS on April 21, 2014, 09:28:07 AM
Post by: Easy-E on April 21, 2014, 11:30:41 AM
Check out the MTB mountain bike saddles. I've been pretty happy with mine and they're affordable.
Post by: Becky on April 21, 2014, 11:31:47 AM
That jives with my experience, too. If anything, a narrow gel seat with good cushioning for the boney areas that contact the seat will serve you well.
I think the bike I got has a gel seat then.. if anything we're going to get him one like mine. It's the same shape as his, narrow diameter but has a V cut out in the back. I don't have strong muscles yet for riding (haven't ridden a bike since I was a 10 year old kid) and so I was sitting a lot of the time and you can actually sit on my seat with some decent comfortableness. His is really like sitting on a funky sharp rock, I can't even ride his bike because the seat hurts too much lol.
Post by: kentrek on April 21, 2014, 11:49:34 AM
I swear the seat will suck for a week or two but once you push through it the smaller seat is better.
The big cushiony clown seats rub the inside of your legs, prevent you from peddling straight down (power) and It hurt my knees because my legs were flared out at an awkward angle. :twocents:
:yeah: if you plan on putting any amount of miles on these bikes the advantages of a skinny seat will be there...ride often an you'll never have a sore....rear....until you try riding out with an elk quarter on your back :chuckle: then you know why bike hunters use trailers :tup:
Post by: bracer40 on April 21, 2014, 12:35:29 PM
If you're seated right now, reach under one cheek with your fingertips and feel where your leg bone connects to the hip bone (helps if you sing it too). These are known in the riding world as your "sit bones." Real scientific huh? Anyhow, those two points (one on each side) are what you want to be supported by a firm seat. When you're in the riding position with your weight distributed across your seat, your pedals and your handlebars, most of your weight in the saddle is resting on your sit bones relieving the soft tissues (aka, your junk) from excessive compression.
When I started teaching spin classes about 5-6 years ago, the seats on the gym bikes were the over stuffed, too wide types and my A** killed me for weeks until I got use to them. But I still can't stay down on them for much more than 15-20 minutes at a time before I need to get up on the pedals to "decompress." Whereas with my road bike & mtn. bike saddles allow me to stay seated comfortably for hours at a time.
Good luck and have fun.
Post by: timberghost72 on April 24, 2014, 05:39:34 PM
So went to Costco and these are Northrock bikes. Look real nice but not great reviews.