Hunting Washington Forum
Big Game Hunting => Bow Hunting => Topic started by: nategood21 on April 24, 2014, 08:08:46 AM
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I was drawn for multi season deer this year, really excited about it. I've been wanting to switch to archery for a while and was hesitant to make the switch. I've had my bow for a while and have been shooting it at what my grandpa had it sighted in for. 10, 20, 25, 30. I decided I wanted to change that and went to 10,20,30,35 still have room on it to go further. what are yours sighted in for? Its an older compound bow #70, not sure what's its max is yet. I can push it further was just curious what others were sighting into for hunting.
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Should be no need to have a 10 yard pin. 10 and 20 should be the same or such a small difference it would never matter in a hunting situation. I shoot 7 pins on my hunting bow and have it sighted in to 80 yards.
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I'll see how far apart they shoot. The pins are about a quarter inch apart. The bow is about 20-30 years old and was a kit my grandpa put together. Thinking I need to get one with a longer draw on it. It was free and I've had fun shooting it so far.
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I'm going to be honest here if you're serious about trying to bow hunt do yourself a HUGE favor and buy a new bow. You will shoot 100 times better and enjoy it way more. It doesn't have to be new off the shelf but a good quality used bow that is a few years old.
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That's what I was wanting to do, money's the only thing keeping me from upgrading
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Some shops have lay away plans for bows or you can find good deals online now and again if you know what you're looking for.
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You can get good quality used bows for pretty cheap. Honestly PSE makes some good bows for cheap I just sold a year old PSE 60lb bow for $350. Something to look into. Just beware the actual bow is the least expensive part. :chuckle:
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I'm going to be honest here if you're serious about trying to bow hunt do yourself a HUGE favor and buy a new bow. You will shoot 100 times better and enjoy it way more. It doesn't have to be new off the shelf but a good quality used bow that is a few years old.
:yeah:
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K so going off that I've never bought a bow before what do I want to look for? If you were going to take a friend out to buy a bow what would you want them to look for in a bow? Price range is probably going to be around 3-400 maybe a little more.
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K so going off that I've never bought a bow before what do I want to look for? If you were going to take a friend out to buy a bow what would you want them to look for in a bow? Price range is probably going to be around 3-400 maybe a little more.
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Everyone is different, try to shoot as many bows as you can and pick the one that feels the best. :twocents:
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I do agree w/D Rock on the newer bow but the obvious option is to reset your sights to 20, 30, 40, 50 etc and practice. Practice will have to happen even with a newer bow. Hunt this year that way and if you really like it, go shopping. Those old bows killed just as many deer as the newer ones. We killed deer with stick bows and recurves before compounds were invented, LOL. :twocents:
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That's what I was wanting to do, money's the only thing keeping me from upgrading
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Remember that with older bows, your arrows are probably moving a lot slower than with more modern equipment. So, since you're going to use that bow, you might want to limit your range. In the time it takes for the arrow to reach a target in excess of 40 yards or so, a lot can happen, even if your shot is perfect leaving the bow.
You can have the speed measured by chronograph at your local bow shop. Also make sure that the arrows you're using are the correct spine for that bow.
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Glad to see a new archery shooter! I started last summer and am completely hooked!
If possible, even if used, by a much newer bow. You'll be Absolutely AMAZED at the difference. Even a 10 year old bow is going to be leaps and bounds more technologically advanced than the 20-30 year old bow you're currently shooting! There's even a HUGE difference between my 2005 Matthews SQ2 and my 2007 Hoyt Vectrix.
Even with a 10 year old bow, you should be able to sight in your first pin for 20 yards. With either of my bows, if I'm shooting 10 yards, with my 20 yard pin, I shoot about 1/2" low. From there, each pin will be in 10 yard increments, 20, 30, 40, 50, etc. In fact, some of today's newest bows, shooters are setting their first pin at 30 yards, or skipping the 30 yard pin, going from 20 yards to 40 yards, because they're so flat shooting.
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What are your guys opinions for newer but affordable bows? I've been hearing a lot about solo cam what's the difference between that and other bows?
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mid-priced Hoyts are hard to beat, especially if you can get a 2013 model. My Hoyt is mid-range and it shoots great.
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http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,151031.msg2016594/topicseen.html#new. (http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,151031.msg2016594/topicseen.html#new.) Here you go.
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Went and got my draw length today, 31.5-32. Not totally savvy on bow knowledge, does that limit me on what I can use?
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How big a boy are ya :yike:
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:yeah: :yike: holy smokes!
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Went and got my draw length today, 31.5-32. Not totally savvy on bow knowledge, does that limit me on what I can use?
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Haha yes that will limit you. I am fairly new to bow hunting and have only been doing it the last two years. I started with a pse stinger which did not have long enough draw but made my d loop longer and made it work. This year I bought a fully loaded 2012 pse vendetta dc bow which has up to a 32" draw and set it to 31.5 and is perfect. I could not be happier and it is a dream to shoot and the accuracy I gained is amazing. I only paid $450 for it and had everything needed to hunt with and new strings.
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30 years ago shooting REALLY heavy arrows we still set pins for 20, 30, 40 & 50. Some guys would then go 45, 50 or 50, 55. That was always confusing to me so I always went 50, 60. Though to be honest, with those old bows and slow heavy arrows we really could have thrown away that 5th pin and been just fine.
I have some 20+ year old glass limb bows that I still shoot from time to time. But, I will no longer shoot any of my wood laminated limbs from more than 20 years ago. I am quite attached to them as the only ones I have left are ones from first animals or tournament wins and I'm super paranoid about breaking one. Which is easy to do once they get that old.
There are a lot of retailers out there right now that have super deals on 2013 model bows. You don't need a top of the line bow. Many of the PSE and Bear entry priced bows will seem like sports cars compared to a 20 year old bow. And they will be A WHOLE lot easier to shoot.
I was at Sportsman's Warehouse in Vancouver/Orchards yesterday. They have a rack of bows from 2012 & 2013 heavily marked down. I was told that in the next day or two those will be 50% off the already marked down price. There were some Dang good bows on that rack!!! PSE, Strothers, and Bear were the ones I saw at the best deals. Some $600 dollar bows for around $200 out the door! That's better than anything I can get wholesale :tup: I actually came home and started making phone calls to see which friend wanted an upgrade!!! Some great ladies bows too.
Your older bow will probably get the job done just fine. I know all my bows got blood on them 30+ years ago. I'd just hate for you to have a failure while in the field. Glass limbs you should probably be ok, but wood limb bows of that age are a ticking time bomb. And I also think you will have a much more enjoyable experience with a lighter weight, faster and easier to shoot modern option.
Went and got my draw length today, 31.5-32. Not totally savvy on bow knowledge, does that limit me on what I can use?
Are you really 6' 4.8" tall? Or do your knuckles drag the ground :chuckle: If so that will have an effect on you getting into a properly sized bow. Choices are limited, but deals on a proper bow can be found. You will probably want to be looking for a bow with at least a 34" axle to axle length and the manufacturers largest cam for that model. Be sure it has an adjustment range to at least 31.5" of draw length.
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Wow! I was just going through my list of 2013 and 2014 bows having at least a 31.5" draw length, 34"+ axle to axle and a cost under $599. I didn't find one that matched that criteria >:( There are a few in the 31" A2A range, but even that list is starting to become a very small one!
I think Sportsman's Warehouse is going to have last years Martin Pantera on markdown. That could fit rather nicely. Would be nice if the new version (Xenon) wasn't over priced by a couple hundred dollars. But you should be able to find the Pantera within your price range.
Another good option would be to place a WTB ad on the forum here. Something like a Hoyt Ultra-Tec or Hoyt Pro-Tec would be exceptional bows for a 31.5" draw length and what you are wanting to do with it. Those are about ten years old now, but really designed well for a long draw archer. And a ten year old Hoyt limb is probably just now starting to get broke in for it's best performance ;) I'm sure someone on here has one laying around that would let it go for a good price. Unfortunately I've given mine away to my gorilla nephews.
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Just had a sportsman warehouse open up where I live I'll take a gander there is not I'll be looking up the classifieds on here. And yes I'm 6'4 1/4" lol. Always have trouble finding shoes that fit wasn't expecting the same with bows :)
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http://lewiston.craigslist.org/spo/4437983950.html (http://lewiston.craigslist.org/spo/4437983950.html)
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Just had a sportsman warehouse open up where I live I'll take a gander there is not I'll be looking up the classifieds on here. And yes I'm 6'4 1/4" lol. Always have trouble finding shoes that fit wasn't expecting the same with bows :)
I forgot to buy a Discover Pass when I was there yesterday. So I have to go back today. I know they had two Pantera's. I'll check the price and send you a PM. If it fits I can always buy it for you and ship it over. Might even be able to do a store transfer over there (no freight) and Mountainman can get you setup :tup:
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Just had a sportsman warehouse open up where I live I'll take a gander there is not I'll be looking up the classifieds on here. And yes I'm 6'4 1/4" lol. Always have trouble finding shoes that fit wasn't expecting the same with bows :)
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Unfortunately, a newly opened store in unlikely to have 2012-13 models, though they may.
If you're up for a little travel, the Black Sheep, in Cda, ID, has tons of 2013 models of Mathews, Hoyt, PSE, Athens and Bear, heavily discounted.
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yes I'm 6'4 1/4" lol. Always have trouble finding shoes that fit wasn't expecting the same with bows :)
How did they measure your draw length? And who did the measuring? 6' 4.25" and being 31.156" seems a little off. :dunno: That's usually between 30.5 and 31. You want to be measured correctly and not try to fit something shorter than you are, but if you were 30.5" that would increase the bow selection choices by a great margin. Enough it would be worth getting a second measurement/opinion.
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I had it done at hooked on toys by Aaron. He took it with a arrow shaft looking thing with measurements on it and a little rubber end piece on it. He's their archery specialist there. Think he got it recently he used a different one for my wife last year. The grand opening of the SW was today haven't been on there yet
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Oh he said I was 32 but could go 31.5 If I put a release loop on it
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Did he have you draw a bow with that arrow or did he place it to your throat and have you extend your arms?
Arrow method is probably my least favorite method of checking draw length. Since it so often measures based upon form of an archer that has not yet developed proper form. It was a great method when we shot recurve bows...a bow that fits you. However, with compound bows you are forced to fit it. So accuracy tends to be much more important. Wingspan is then the more accurate way of measuring for a compound shooter. It's still not 100% as finger length has some influence (especially in women), but it gets the closest by far IMO. Then tweaking has to be done while observing proper form. Though that is usually minute for the anal retentive :hello: :chuckle:
In my career I have probably seen only a half dozen archers that are true 32" draw. Yet I meet guys regularly that believe they are. So I am always very skeptical of shops who claim to have measured someone at 32". Especially if they say, "You could probably get away with a 31.5". Worst thing is so many of these long draw archers I've met leave the sport due to complete frustration with availability of quality products that actually fit. A shame when having a long draw length gives you so many performance advantages!
Here is a link to a well written instruction on measuring properly by wingspan; http://www.huntersfriend.com/bow_sizing_adjustment_guide.html (http://www.huntersfriend.com/bow_sizing_adjustment_guide.html)
The most important part of the instruction is "Don't stretch when measuring. Just stand naturally."
This is for men! In general you make a cut for women as they usually have longer fingers for their size.
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For clarification:
I am not saying Hooked On Toys is wrong. Just that I am concerned/skeptical/have doubts of the accuracy of that method.
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What would you consider 31.2? 31 with a release loop?
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What would you consider 31.2? 31 with a release loop?
Depends on the release and the loop. :chuckle:
Usually 1/4" either way isn't going to be a deal breaker. Most bows aren't within a 1/4" of their specified draw length anyway. Each manufacture has fuzzy lengths and each new string can give some fuzzy length changes. But, add 1/4" to an already 1/2" too long of draw and you could end up with some form and fit issues.
Can lead to some nasty things like target panic, poor follow-thru (extremely important on longer draw lengths) and difficulty shooting up and down hill.
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20 30 40 50 60
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Did he have you draw a bow with that arrow or did he place it to your throat and have you extend your arms?
Arrow method is probably my least favorite method of checking draw length. Since it so often measures based upon form of an archer that has not yet developed proper form. It was a great method when we shot recurve bows...a bow that fits you. However, with compound bows you are forced to fit it. So accuracy tends to be much more important. Wingspan is then the more accurate way of measuring for a compound shooter. It's still not 100% as finger length has some influence (especially in women), but it gets the closest by far IMO. Then tweaking has to be done while observing proper form. Though that is usually minute for the anal retentive :hello: :chuckle:
In my career I have probably seen only a half dozen archers that are true 32" draw. Yet I meet guys regularly that believe they are. So I am always very skeptical of shops who claim to have measured someone at 32". Especially if they say, "You could probably get away with a 31.5". Worst thing is so many of these long draw archers I've met leave the sport due to complete frustration with availability of quality products that actually fit. A shame when having a long draw length gives you so many performance advantages!
Here is a link to a well written instruction on measuring properly by wingspan; http://www.huntersfriend.com/bow_sizing_adjustment_guide.html (http://www.huntersfriend.com/bow_sizing_adjustment_guide.html)
The most important part of the instruction is "Don't stretch when measuring. Just stand naturally."
This is for men! In general you make a cut for women as they usually have longer fingers for their size.
RADSAV if you would like to mee another one we should meet up! :chuckle: :chuckle: I'm 6'10!
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:chuckle: :chuckle: I'm 6'10!
Yikes! You might even be 32.5" or more! :yike: Bet you don't find shoes or bows at your corner store very often, do you? :chuckle:
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I've been bow hunting for going on 45 years. The best advice I can send your direction is find a pro shop with folks who do only that and have for years. Get to know someone by first name and ask questions - lots of them. The stuff out there is light years beyond what I started out using. What they can help you with will be invaluable. Even if you have to drive an hour to get there. Trust me on this. The bow is an important piece of equipment, but properly matched arrows are by far the most important. Find a bow that is comfortable and properly matched arrows and practice, practice, practice. Learn all that you can about the game you hunt, respect the game you hunt, respect the land you hunt on. And have fun.
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I just bought a PSE Stinger at Cabelas marked down from $399 to $319. This is my first bow but it seems very nice and the price was right ;)
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30_40_50_60_70.
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I just bought a PSE Stinger at Cabelas marked down from $399 to $319. This is my first bow but it seems very nice and the price was right ;)
Welcome to the stick flinging tribe! Sounds like a good deal to me. One of the better grade school to graduation bows out there. :tup:
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Thanks for the welcome radsav, i just looked and this bow is max draw length of 30.5
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Thanks for the welcome radsav, i just looked and this bow is max draw length of 30.5
Yeah, it has some insane adjustability. Should have draw length adjustable from 25.5 to 30.5 and weight from 40 to 70#. Should fit just about anyone from 5'3" to 6'4". Has a moderate axel to axel and a medium high brace height making it a very easy bow to shoot. While not incredibly fast the HP cam is one of the smoothest on the market in any category. So much so that you may find yourself shooting more poundage than you could comfortably shoot in other bows balancing out the speed with other choices. Pretty dang quite compared to other bows with that much adjustability. They are a little heavy, but that is usually a good thing for archers just starting out as it helps develop a good follow-thru. And of course the PSE grip is one of my favorites. A great companion as you learn the sport. And at $319 dollars you can afford to get better accessories and break a lot of arrows making the learning experience that more enjoyable! In my opinion PSE was nuts to discontinue this bow and price point without a suitable replacement.
A very smart purchase IMO :tup:
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I have my pins set at 20.40.60.70