Post by: swift on July 09, 2014, 11:10:33 PM
Post by: bowhunterforever on July 10, 2014, 01:50:13 AM
Post by: Sabotloader on July 10, 2014, 07:11:49 AM
Just picked up my new Knight Mountianeer and was wondering if anyone has had good luck with a certain break in method ?
The Mountaineer bore has been treated with Dyna Tek Bore Coat and it does need to shot in to complete the curing of the product.
Probably the best thing you can do is clean the bore with a good cleaning product and them make a trip where you are just shooting the rifle to get it on paper. It will take 8-10 shots according to DT to cure the product. I would suggest double that. Once that is completed clean the bore again and begin your load development process..
Post by: MountainDevil54 on July 10, 2014, 09:43:01 AM
Post by: Damnimissed on July 10, 2014, 12:06:39 PM
Post by: Sabotloader on July 10, 2014, 12:46:38 PM
Uh oh, I kinda took the rifle barrel break-in approach with my ultra lite. I never let the barrel get more than a little warm, 3 shot groups. I hope it's ok.
You will be fine... basically the same way I do it.. also
Post by: Ruttn Bulls on July 10, 2014, 05:45:44 PM
What kind of temperature are we talking about here?
New to the ML world and about to get a new Ulite. So this is a great question in the OP.
However, I am pretty sure I am not going to be very efficient at "load and shoot 10 times fast as you can"....
So, with the weather smoking hot outside can't a guy get the same result with ambient temp's and direct sunlight on the barrel while "shooting it in" and not have to be so fast at the process? I mean 98 deg. full sun heats up any barrel pretty good just by itself. Then shooting at the same time makes me wonder?
Post by: Sabotloader on July 10, 2014, 07:05:35 PM
Hope this isn't a dummy question but,
What kind of temperature are we talking about here?
New to the ML world and about to get a new Ulite. So this is a great question in the OP.
However, I am pretty sure I am not going to be very efficient at "load and shoot 10 times fast as you can"....
So, with the weather smoking hot outside can't a guy get the same result with ambient temp's and direct sunlight on the barrel while "shooting it in" and not have to be so fast at the process? I mean 98 deg. full sun heats up any barrel pretty good just by itself. Then shooting at the same time makes me wonder?
You do not have to load and shoot ten times as fast as you can... heck that can even lead to mistakes...
Just make a range trip and shoot 15-20 shots just learning and shooting - you will be fine. Shooting that much you will feel the barrel temp rise. This heat bakes the bore coat into the bore.
I would not and I am not shooting right now because of the outside temp - to hot to prove anything and to easy to start a fire... Shooting projectiles in a sabot in that kind of temps is futile as the sabot softens to the point it slips across the bore. MD's suggestion of shooting copper bullets will tend to increase the heat but how many of you are ready to shoot a full bore copper bullet.
The sabot will hold the heat in behind and the temp will rise.
Have fun, but be careful and be consistent...
Post by: MountainDevil54 on July 10, 2014, 08:14:33 PM
Shooting it as fast as you can in a safe manner of course, is important. If you have an oven big enough, you can put the barrel in there for 45 minutes at 350* that should give you some kind of idea of the heat it takes to cure it.
Whats so hard about shooting a copper conical bullet?
Also avoid using a bronze bore brush, it will destroy the bore coat.
I've done over a dozen personal rifles and pistols with this stuff, GET IT HOT.
The last ML I did was some months back and I did 15 shots with 100gr blackhorn209. 3 low were my first 3 shots and then after adjustment, I took 12 more at 50 yards.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi293.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fmm53%2Fthepowerbeltforum%2FCVA%2520Gun%2520Pics%2520and%2520Reviews%2FIMG_2280.jpg&hash=b87318f97b6dd1853dafca79b49a9fad4c9fd73c)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi293.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fmm53%2Fthepowerbeltforum%2FCVA%2520Gun%2520Pics%2520and%2520Reviews%2FIMG_2274.jpg&hash=878821584273f36e9aedce9d1bb64448f54fa489)
Post by: Ruttn Bulls on July 10, 2014, 08:35:50 PM
Post by: MountainDevil54 on July 10, 2014, 08:41:43 PM
45 min @ 350 deg. Wow. I may be missing something real big here but, ....if those are the proper parameters to to make the bore coat work as it's designed why don't they just cook the barrels at the factory before shipping them?
that would be best. I doubt they give any kind of info about the borecoat in the user manuals. Im not a big believer they do it properly either after some pictures ive seen of brand new bores rusting up. Who knows. I prefer to spend the $40-50 on the larger size kit midway sells and know its being done right.
Post by: Ruttn Bulls on July 11, 2014, 08:03:23 PM
Post by: MountainDevil54 on July 11, 2014, 08:16:38 PM
Nylon brush is the only kind you will want to use in a bore that's been treated with bore coat.
Post by: Ruttn Bulls on July 12, 2014, 06:14:09 AM
Well, I'll get to looking for a Nylon one now. Thanks.
Post by: swift on July 12, 2014, 09:14:21 AM
Looks to me like all his shoot ! I cleaned it then I did 25 shots then cleaned
It now time to work up loads when it cools down !
The bore sure feels smooth with a patch after it was shot in
Post by: Sabotloader on July 12, 2014, 12:01:46 PM
Well hope mine is gonna be a shooter I did sabotloaders breakin ! :)
Looks to me like all his shoot ! I cleaned it then I did 25 shots then cleaned
It now time to work up loads when it cools down !
The bore sure feels smooth with a patch after it was shot in
It will shoot just fine and it will still be protected...
I am also waiting for the weather to cool down - but it might be a longer wait than I want... I really want to get out and shoot this new one...
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv130%2Fsabotloader%2FKnight%2520ULite%2520%2520-14%2FP1010007.jpg&hash=32a16a5d4181f3040757587b18ee1b3d3819878d) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sabotloader/media/Knight%20ULite%20%20-14/P1010007.jpg.html)
Post by: Ruttn Bulls on July 12, 2014, 07:29:26 PM
Swift: Nice Job getting it done there. Can't wait to hear how the Rifle shoots as you work at it. Curious what Bullets and Powder you chose for the shoot in exercise??
Sabotloader;
Good Looking Green Ulite there!! Wish mine would hurry up and get here....Would have been quicker to drive to Utah and pick that rascal up myself instead of waiting on the Mail.....
Anyway, Do you have a specific powder and Bullet configuration you would recommend for the "shoot in" with mine when it ever gets here?
I did get the Bull Shop .503 @ 460's Ordered but got to wondering if those were the most appropriate to shoot it in?
Thank's.
Post by: Sabotloader on July 12, 2014, 07:55:02 PM
Swift: Nice Job getting it done there. Can't wait to hear how the Rifle shoots as you work at it. Curious what Bullets and Powder you chose for the shoot in exercise??
Sabotloader;
Good Looking Green Ulite there!! Wish mine would hurry up and get here....Would have been quicker to drive to Utah and pick that rascal up myself instead of waiting on the Mail.....
Anyway, Do you have a specific powder and Bullet configuration you would recommend for the "shoot in" with mine when it ever gets here?
For rifle season I am shooting a 458-300 grain Bloodline in a HPH-24 sabot with a 110 grains of T7-3f. For ML season shooting the conicals - I shoot 90 grains of T7-3f with a shot card over the powder and under the bullet. I may switch that to a MMP sub base if the State approves which I think they will as it just acts as a wad. and in real life 90 grains of T7-3f is probably over doing it. 70/80 grains would be just fine.
Quote
I did get the Bull Shop .503 @ 460's Ordered but got to wondering if those were the most appropriate to shoot it in?
They really are not that expensive so probably as good as any, you might need a short starter to start the bullet down. I have been able to just start them down with my thumb and then push them down with the ram rod. You are probably going to want to get a 50 cal loading/cleaning jag for your rod.
Thank's.
[/quote]
Hope some of this helps...
mike
Post by: swift on July 12, 2014, 10:50:57 PM
Post by: Sabotloader on July 13, 2014, 07:54:38 AM
Ruttn bulls I just used up some cheap sabot I had with 110 t7 3f
That will certainly work also - + less chance of leading the barrel...
Post by: Ruttn Bulls on July 13, 2014, 05:56:01 PM