Hunting Washington Forum
Community => Taxidermy & Scoring => Topic started by: Michelle_Nelson on December 10, 2008, 10:04:31 AM
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Have had quite a few people ask me about my process for cleaning skulls and doing European Mounts. I just started a skull on December 9th so I will be adding pictures every couple days with comments on the process. This will take a couple months.
This is what you are going to need!
1. 5 Gallon Bucket
2. Floating Glass Aquarium Thermometer
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2752255
3. Fish Tank Heater I would recommend a heater that can keep your 5 gallon bucket of water heated to at least 85 degrees in winter. I wouldn't use anything less that the 150 Watts. Make sure the heater is submersible.
I use the 200 - 250 Watt heaters but I have a 150 gallon tank used to water stock that I macerate in when I have several big skulls. I will normally run no less than 5 - 200 Watt heaters in this tank at one time.
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2754055
4. Knives or Scaple Blades.
5. A coat hanger or something to get the brains out of the skull.
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If the head has been in the freezer I will take it out and put the head down inside of the 5 gallon bucket to thaw for a couple days.
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Once thawed out and using your choice of knife or scaple remove all the hide, meat, eye's, Lower jaw, and neck remaining on the skull!
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This is a fully preped skull. Their is still a good bit of meat left on the skull. Their is plenty of meat removed for the process to work with out problems. I don't bother removing the upper palat. It will peal off in about a week. Though the more meat you remove the faster the process witll go. Usually you will only save a couple days on a deer skull.
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Now using your coat hanger or other tool of choice that will fit inside the back of the skull and scramble the brains. Now turn the skull up and let the brains run out of the hole while working the tool. Using a hose you can spray water inside the brain cavity to help wash the brain out.
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Now put the skull inside the 5 gallon bucket. Put something between the antlers and bucket to keep the back of the skull down inside the bucket. Fill the 5 gallon bucket up with water until the skull is under atleas 1" of water. Also put the Fish Tank Heater and Floating Thermometer inside the bucket. Go ahead and plug in the Fish tank Heater.
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Now all you can do is wait.
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Cool :). Except the brain part is kinda gross :puke:
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Except the brain part is kinda gross :puke:
Just looks like pudding!
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What do u do to bleach it?
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I use 27% peroxide. I will go into more detail when I get that far on the skull! :)
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So do you end up recoloring the bases of the horns once you are done? I noticed some on your website that looked like they had been recolored..
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Nope. Why would I recolor them? :dunno:
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Okay Michelle, done boiling and everything removed. How do you go about the final detailed cleaning in the tiny cracks? does the peroxide take care of this? Also, I thought I would like the natural yellow color but now think I want it white. If I cant get it cleaner I may have it Hydroprinted but cant find anyone with a desert type camo pattern.
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Nope. Why would I recolor them? :dunno:
If I would have thoroughly read your post I would have seen that you are soaking the deer head in water as a first step....not peroxide. Stupid me...
The peroxide that I use will bleach the antlers or anything it touches for that matter white. I'm using 39% peroxide but would assume the stuff you're using would also do this.
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Nope. Why would I recolor them? :dunno:
The peroxide that I use will bleach the antlers or anything it touches for that matter white. I'm using 39% peroxide though...
I put the skull in peroxide up to about 1" from the antler burs and than I put paper towel around the pedical and top of skull. Every hour I pour fresh peroxide on the towel.
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How do you go about the final detailed cleaning in the tiny cracks? does the peroxide take care of this? Also, I thought I would like the natural yellow color but now think I want it white.
That is why I don't like boiling. You won't get the conective tissue out between the bones and up inside the nasal cannal. Peroxide won't get rid of it.
Peroxide should get rid of most if not all the yellowing. The yellowing is probably grease set into the bone. You are going to have to degrese.
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Nope. Why would I recolor them? :dunno:
The peroxide that I use will bleach the antlers or anything it touches for that matter white. I'm using 39% peroxide though...
I put the skull in peroxide up to about 1" from the antler burs and than I put paper towel around the pedical and top of skull. Every hour I pour fresh peroxide on the towel.
That sounds more like it.
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Where are you getting 39% peroxide? I have never heard of more than 35% being used. IMO 39% is over kill.
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Water Treatment. Call it overkill, but i've never had to soak skulls in water prior to peroxide...
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I'm not trying to jack your thread either, I find it very informative. Also, I just ran out and looked at the tote of peroxide and it is 35%, smarty pants.
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Water Treatment. Call it overkill, but i've never had to soak skulls in water prior to peroxide...
The water isn't a treatment. Water is used to remove the flesh and membrane from the skull. Prior to degreasing and whitening.
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Okay Michelle I thought it would be easier to show you a pic. How do I get these cracks, nasal cavity and teeth clean from this point?
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I pulled the Skull out today (December 15th) to check on it's progress. This is what it looked like right out of the bucket of water.
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I spent approximately 3 minutes pulling off the loose flesh from the bone. Most of the flesh, membrane and tendons should just fall off the skull. It is important not to force the flesh removal.
I did not remove the nose cartilage at this point because it is not ready. Do not try to pull it out because it will more than likely break off and than it is a pain to get the rest out.
This is what the skull looked like when I got done pulling off the meat that was ready.
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At this point it is time to 'freshen up" the Broth. Dump out 1/4 of the water in the 5 gallon bucket and refill it with warm (over 90 degrees) water. Replace the skull, thermometer, and Fish Tank Heater. You will leave the skull in this water for another week.
*Broth is a word used to describe the water in the 5 gallon bucket once the skull has started macerating. The broth is nothing but a bacteria soup.
The reason we dump out 1/4 of the water and replace it with fresh warm (over 90 degrees) water is to improve bacterial activity. Bacteria is what is cleaning the skull.
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Okay Michelle I thought it would be easier to show you a pic. How do I get these cracks, nasal cavity and teeth clean from this point?
The way I have done it in the past is Macerate it. Get a 5 gallon bucket fill it with water and put the skull in it with a heater. Than drop in about a 1/4 lbs piece of meat or some scraps off another skull. The meat will get the bacteria activated. One week should do the trick with your skull.
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Thanks Michelle
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When I was a kid my dad would find skulls from various animals in the woods and he never did all this. He left in near ant hill or in the path of a line of them and they stripped it clean. Is there a down side to this if you want to mount it?
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Sal soda in plain water will loosen meat and get rid of those hard to reach spots as well as bleaching a little bit. I've soaked heads in sal soda for a week or two and then hit them (carefully) with a pressure washer and the meat comes right off.
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this is a neat way to do it, a little longer, but if you dont have a whole afternoon a lot cleaner! So are you done yet Michelle?
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Nope. Has atleast 1 more week in the broth.
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this is a neat way to do it, a little longer, but if you dont have a whole afternoon a lot cleaner! So are you done yet Michelle?
Quality work takes time!!
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Has anyone heard of using beetles for this process?
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Guy down the street has beetles , he charges 100 bucks i think for a european with no plack
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Yes, Beatles and maceration are IMO the only 2 safe methods to clean a skull.
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Great post Mich! Im just glad I cant smell the pictures :chuckle:
I know , it doesnt smell right ;)
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What do the ants do that the beetles don't that makes it safe?
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It's not the ant's that are bad for the skull. It's the minerals in the dirt that can and will discolor the skull. It;s the dogs, cats, coons, possum, etc that will drag away or chew the skull up while it is in that ant mound.
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That makes sense. Didn't think of it in those terms. Very helpful, thank you Michelle
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Michelle, Hows the progress on the skull you were working on?
I've been watching and hoping you would continue to post the rest of the process.
Thanks Mike
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I need to go through the pictures I have taken. So far the skull is in the Dawn Degreaser. I'll get it updated in a couple days I hope.
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Curious how it turned out michelle??? I have two in the buckets right now and it seems like it is taking a while, definitly some progress though. Patience!!! THanks for the tutorial.
WACAT
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WACATHUNTER how long have they been in the bucket and do you have a fish tank heater in the bucket with them? What is the temp on the heater set at? Temp is important that is why I always put a thermometer in the bucket. :)
I just need to get out their and take pic's.
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Probably six weeks since I put the heaters in. It is set at the Highest temp which is 92 degrees. Something ios working becuase there is a potent smell and most the meat has fallen off. I'll put a thermo in tonight.
WACAT
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If it is at 92 degrees that is perfect. Even 80 degrees will work. your skull should have been done a few weeks ago. i have it done where I can have a skull done in 2 weeks.
Have you been dumping 1/4 the water out every week to 10 days and adding fresh water?
Have you been pulling the skull out and pulling the meat off? Let the nasal cartlage pretty much fall out. If it breaks off it will be a pain in the butt to get out later.
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I have changed the water once, probably should do it a bit more frequent. Yes I have been pulling the meat off here and there. Do you have a big evaporation issue??? I finally covered it in Black plastic because I was having to put water in everyday.
Thanks again,
WACAT
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Yep got to keep water in it!
Do not empty out all the water. Only 1/4 of the water at most. Bacteria is like any other living organizm. It needs a healthy environment to live in, in order to do their job. Bacteria eat, poop, and die like anything else. How well would you work having to live and swim amoung dead bodies and poop?
I can't remember the name of it off the top of my head but if you don't freshen the water reguler your bacteria will get sick. A scum forming on the top of the water is a good sign of it. Once you get it it's hard to get rid of it. Nasty stuff.
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Changed out 2/3 of the water last night, one seems to be working great the other bucket not so well. It has that unnamed stuff that leaves a film on top of the water.
WACAT
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If it is not working that I would suggest pulling that skull out of the bucket. Wash the bucket and heater with some chlorox cleanup and rinse it REALLY REALLY WELL! Than mix up a bucket of soapy dawn water. Put the skull in that and let it set for a few hours.
Than fill the bucket up with fresh water. Rinse the skull really really well again and get all the soap off. Put the skull and tank heater back in the bucket and fill with fresh water. Than add some fresh meat in the bucket. 3 golf ball size pieces ought to do. The meat and blood in the meat will activate the bacteria again.
I believe the virus that the bacteria contract is called "Phlage" or something close.
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Have you finished this European yet? Curious to see what you do after degreasing. Lets get an update!
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Thanks for the info, I have always boiled and I like the idea of soaking. I can only imagine the smell. I use to make a fish sludge when you could bear bait. Take a 5 gallon bucket and lid and go bow hunting for carp and bring them home and fill the buckets up 3/4 full with cut up pieces of the carp, put on the lid and let it sit out in the sun for about 10 days :puke: You can only imagine the smell. Great bear bait. Any way this post reminded me of that.
Thanks again for the info...
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I havn't been rushing the process. Been busy working on Rugs. It is in the degreaser right now and I will pull it out this week and get picks and start the next process.
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:EAT:
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So I am ready to start my degreasing process. Do you just mix a dawn/water solution and let it sit for a week??? Thanks
WACAT
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How much water are you planing on using?
If you use a 5 gallon bucket go ahead and fill the bucket til it covers the skull. It can cover the antlers it won't hurt anything. If you put a stick on top of the bucket and prop the horns up the skull will set a bit lower in the water. Like I did in the picture on the first page of this topic during the maceration step.
So 5 gallon bucket of water with about 3/4 cup dawn water. Wash your fish tank heater and put it in the degreasing water. You will change this solution every 2 days for a couple weeks.
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Sounds good, I need to take some pics up on this thread for a DIY's Maceration proof, Thanks for everything Michelle. I still have one inthe redone broth due to the disease, it looks like it is working this time. I also just started an elk. THanks again,
WACAT
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I need to get a fish tank heater.........I got a head in the freezer waiting........
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Get the Stealth from PetSmart. It's black with a red knobe. i posted a link in the first post that shows a pic of it.
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How is the degreasing going? Any updates? Great thread BTW! Thanks.
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The degreasing is coming along. Stuborn spot on this particular skull so I put it in Acetone after sitting in clean water for 24 hours and drying.
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Here are some pics of my recent maceration project, Thanks Michelle!
Just a little bacteria bath, what a fine smell!!!
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Now a bath of Dawn to degrease in.
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I am bleaching 1 of them right now so will try to get some final pics up later.
WACAT
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why so many of the same pic? :dunno:
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CNTRL C on the wrong link, fixed it.
WACAT
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How long did you degrease the Skulls? What are you using to whiten? Don't use Bleach.
They look good so far. Keep up the good work.
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Degreased for about 10 days changing water every 2 or so. I am using the Peroxide you suggested 27%. That stuff is a little spendy eh!
WACAT
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The peroxide isn't to spendy. You can use it for quite a few skulls. I have 6 gallons of the stuff in varying stages of use. The old stuff I will sometime add to the degreaser on non antlered game skulls.
Make sure you get all the white deposits off of the skull before you whiten. I go over the skulls with a stiff tooth brush a couple time during the degreasing bath.
After the degreasing bath I'd have pulled the skull out and let it dry completely for at least a week to see if their is any more grease. It will bleed out and make the skull look wet in areas. If it does this back in the degreasr for another week. Here is a photo of the deer I shot this year. I took it out of the degreaser about 2 months ago and haven't had a chance to put it back in. You can see that the grease on the top of the head.
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The elk I would let go for at least another 10 days in the degreaser.
One thing i will mention is you may want to wrap a couple strips of paper towel around the nose of the deer and wrap electrical tape to hold the bones in position while they dry.
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You can also see the yellowing in the eye socket and bottom of skull. That is grease!
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So here are a few bleached skull pics. I still need to get them on boards but they turned out very good. I still have one in the broth so I'll get some pics up later. Thanks for the process Michelle the deer is the best one I havea ever done, I used to boil. THanks again,
WACAT
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2008 Muley
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Thanks for the process Michelle the deer is the best one I havea ever done, I used to boil. THanks again,
WACAT
The Maceration process makes a world of difference compared to boiling, doesn't it? :chuckle:
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Nice Job WACATHUNTER, nice to see a do-it yourselfer take the high road and do skulls one of the "right" ways. Makes a world of differance with the finished product!! Skulls look great!
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The Maceration process makes a world of difference compared to boiling, doesn't it? :chuckle:
[/quote]
That's what I've been saying for years, but a lot of hunters like taking the short cuts to get theirs done faster.
[/quote]
I just took a hunters do it youself job and tried to "fix it" so it looked halfway descent. Should have just done it right the first time ;)
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I think the boiling method is more of an instant gratification of getting it done quick so a hunter can hang it on the wall. More often than not the quick way is not the best way. Than again what do we know we only do this kinda stuff every day.
Yes, I do realize not everyone can affored to have every skull professionally done.
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Great job. Those look so much better than the early stuff you did back in the day. Remember the smell????
KLICKMAN :brew:
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nicely done.
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Thnks all. I used to boil/simmer back in the day like klick said, I am hooked on maceration now!
WACAT
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Thnks all. I used to boil/simmer back in the day like klick said, I am hooked on maceration now!
WACAT
:IBCOOL:
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Just reviving this thread. I have boiled approximatly 3 skulls with great success and this year I am giving maceration a try. Boy does it stink! I will take pictures when I am done!
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Michelle, I have the elk in the bucket soaking! : )
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Michelle, can you show some mounting techniques on boards?
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I know I am not Michelle but...
Be sure to put it somewhere you don't mind getting really really rank! I had to buy a 55 gal brute with lid and relocate them outside! My garage still is rank after 1 week of airing out!
Check out van dykes taxidermy for plaque kits! They have cheapie to very elaborate.
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Home Depot has some heavy duty black totes with yellow lids that I have found are just about right for macerating Elk Skulls. I have 2 elk skulls and 1 bear skull going right now. They are all in the degreaser right now. Getting ready to do another batch of skulls.
As far as mounting them to boards I will have to take some pic's.
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Was the tape just holding teeth in or what was it for? I have an antelope head in a bucket but with no heater. Any harm in this other than taking a longer time? Thanx
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You mean electrical tape on my skulls? That is Electrical Tape over 2 or 3 layers of a strip of paper towel so the glue doesn't get on the skull. Mostly I use it on young animals and a few areas on other animals to keep the mseam together while the final drying. Not that the seams seperate a great deal I just prefer it.
During maceration most of the teeth on Bear and only a few on deer will fall out. I only replace the teeth after the skull is completely dry. Never had a problem with them flling right into place.
I hope that after Elk Season I will be able to start a new Maceration thread from start to finnish. I got busy in the middle of doing this one and never finnished in. I will more than likely be doing a Bear Skull.
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grizz looking at vandykes thank you. has started smelling bad.. weather has been cool and now raining in spokane.
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Hey guys and gals, so I am macerating a couple buck heads right now. Started the last week of general season so about a month ago. I have been dumping half the water and replacing with new every two weeks. One head that had about a week head start is almost complete but all the joints where the bones meet are loose. Even the top plate where the skull comes together. So my question is will it always be loose after its completed? the nasal bones are all in tact and have not fallen out but all the teeth and the bones near where the nose would be are very loose. Should I be worried? I don't want to ruin my buddies trophies.
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No, no don't be worried. That is completely normal. That is how you know ALL the meat and soft tissue are cleaned away. Just remember superglue fixes everything. Seriously. After the skull has been whitened you will tape it so all the bones dry together and than a little bead of super glue will hold them. I have one right now that is taped I will take a pic for you later and post it.
Has the nose cartlige fallen out on it's own yet? Do you have a fish tank heater in the water with the skull? It makes a world of diference. For maceration I like the water to be between 80 and 90 degrees.
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FYI.. . . . I am waiting for a member to drop off a bear and than I will start a new thread on Maceration from start to finnish. I never got a chance to finnish this one.
For all those wanting to do a follow along make sure you have everything on the supply list on page 1. No you don't have to use the exact same fish tank heater but it is the one I have found works the best. I bought it at PetCo or PetSmart.
I hope to start this new thread in a week or 2. YES you can use other skulls. Your not limited to Bear Skull even though that is what I am going to be doing.
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Yes i actually have 2 200 watt heaters in there but I do not have a thermometor. I have probably 8 or 9 gallons of water in a 55 gallon brute garbage can with 2 skulls macerating at the same time. it is outside with the lid on so there has been no evaporation. Thanks for the reply michelle, Will I need to superglue all the joints where the bones come together or only where bones fall out? No the nasal bones have not yet fallen out.
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Does the heater just speed things up & can it work with no heater just taking longer time?
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I just glue the sections of bone that are loose. Such as teeth, you will be able to tell.
Yes the heater just speeds things up. It will work without but it will take a LOT longer.
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Ok, so I figured I could do this as well as the next clown, so I decided to do my Kansas buck this way. Let me tell you.....it takes only 4 beers to get past step one of skinning the skull. The brains part was another 2 drinks. I really can't remember anything not sexual related that was more disgusting than removing brains from a skull. Thankfully, once the brains are out it's ready for the bucket. I got a 200 watt aquarium heater from WalMart today that should work fine. I covered the top of the bucket in aluminum foil for evaporation and wrapped R-10 insulation around the bucket to help with the cold. I'll be able to check it in a couple weeks to see how it's doing. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
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On deer sometimes it will take 2 - 3 weeks for the center nose cartlige to fall out. Don't force it or it will break off, it should practically fall out on it's own.
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Here is my next project for the maceration tank. The smell wasn't pretty. Probably a pound of maggots on the skull.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi126.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp115%2Fmichellestaxidermy%2FSANY0380.jpg&hash=4c2fdfd1af27c209141b5cc548d1564ae86612a2)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi126.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp115%2Fmichellestaxidermy%2FSANY0382.jpg&hash=44f0731b5beaf9f9d239f0937d42a6c8f38cb3d9)
Well I got most of the maggots. Went out this morning and they had taken reffuge on the antler burrs. Atleast the ones that hadn't drowned.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi126.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp115%2Fmichellestaxidermy%2FSANY0387-1.jpg&hash=f1846267a99ed2b3b5da6705239d6e7a90aafbf0)
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I hope you are charging this person double
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I'll stick to beattles, thats gross :chuckle:
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:puke:
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LOL, not charging the guy double. The skull will hopefully clean faster and I can get another skull in the tank started. Doesn't even come close to grosing me out. Hubby wanted absolutly no part of being around it.
Though my husband made chicken, steamed veggies, and rice for dinner. I made the coment did this rice come off the skull I just got done with. It was almost enough to ruin dinner for him.
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You should go on fear factor, Michelle
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No, because they would probably make me pick the maggots off and eat them.
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I think that would qualify you for the YAR group Mich.
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Though my husband made chicken, steamed veggies, and rice for dinner. I made the coment did this rice come off the skull I just got done with. It was almost enough to ruin dinner for him.
I freak out my family when we go to Chinese when I put pepper flakes for eyes on the flied lice (fried rice) and line them up like maggots around the plate.
I think I will stick to the simmer and pick method. That maceration is a little too grody for me. Last year I did a european for a friend. When he brought me the head it had been in a plastic bag since he killed it in september. I got it in late December. It was a pile of jelly and maggots. I swore that it would be the last one in that condition that I would ever do.
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I hope you are charging this person double
I'm glad she's not charging me double ;) This appears to be my dad's bull. Was shot on the first day of our Idaho hunt, and unfortunately couldn't get him back here and into Michelle's hands until we returned. So, not much we could do.
Thanks for posting Michelle. Interesting to see the progress, and sorry about the mess. Next year we'll shoot for a last day kill :chuckle:
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I am talking to Michelle right now on the phone, she said shoot it whenever you get the oppurtunity. Maggots or meat it is all the same to her....
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Though my husband made chicken, steamed veggies, and rice for dinner. I made the coment did this rice come off the skull I just got done with. It was almost enough to ruin dinner for him.
I freak out my family when we go to Chinese when I put pepper flakes for eyes on the flied lice (fried rice) and line them up like maggots around the plate.
I swear next time we have rice I am so doing that. Has to be long grain rice though. I will offer to dish up his plate and arange the little rice maggots on it for him.
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I hope you are charging this person double
I'm glad she's not charging me double ;) This appears to be my dad's bull. Was shot on the first day of our Idaho hunt, and unfortunately couldn't get him back here and into Michelle's hands until we returned. So, not much we could do.
Thanks for posting Michelle. Interesting to see the progress, and sorry about the mess. Next year we'll shoot for a last day kill :chuckle:
The condition of the skull was deffinatly understandable. Skulls are really not that big of deal when it comes to maggots. They tend to clean faster.
Now when I get capes with them than we have some talking to do :chuckle:
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One thing I learned was to unplug the tank heater when you change water, burnt that one up, now I have to go buy another
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YES! Depending on the tank heater some have to sit in the water for 15 or so minutes befor you plug them in or they will burn up. If you use the ones I am using they are pretty tough!
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How are things coming Michelle? I know we still have a long ways to go, just curious.
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It's going slow. Had 1 heater in the tank. Wasn't enough to keep the water above 70 degrees. I think it was down to 50. So last week I put a second heater in it and it should be abouve 70 now. It is about 3/4 cleaned. Havn't checked it in a week or so.
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This is pretty cool, but I've gotta say, I think I will stick to the boil 'n pick method... All that waiting makes my ADD hurt.. :chuckle:
I did something different this year for bleaching; I made a paste of peroxide and baking soda and spread it on like peanut butter. Let it sit for a few hours then rinsed it off and set the skull in the sun for the rest of the afternoon. I am pretty happy with the results. I think I will bleach that way from now on.
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I took another look at this thread on my home computer (where I can actually see the pictures). Fascinating. They really do come out much cleaner than boiling. I may try this next year (if I can find a place to do it that won't result in me losing half my stuff in divorce court :chuckle:)
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It really doesn't smell that bad. Geeeze. lol.
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You should go on fear factor, Michelle
Damn, she works around it; she doesn't EAT it! Michelle? Tell me you don't stand around with a Bud Light gnawing at these skulls behind the scenes...
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I hope you are charging this person double
I'm glad she's not charging me double ;) This appears to be my dad's bull. Was shot on the first day of our Idaho hunt, and unfortunately couldn't get him back here and into Michelle's hands until we returned. So, not much we could do.
Thanks for posting Michelle. Interesting to see the progress, and sorry about the mess. Next year we'll shoot for a last day kill :chuckle:
The condition of the skull was deffinatly understandable. Skulls are really not that big of deal when it comes to maggots. They tend to clean faster.
Now when I get capes with them than we have some talking to do :chuckle:
CoryTDF did a spike elk that looked about like that a couple of years ago. We forgot the head up at elk camp, and I had to run back up and get it. THis was a Sept archery hunt, and it was pretty hot. I threw the head in the back of the truck and drove it to Cory's house. I saw him go from gagging to wretching uncontrollably just cutting the body hide off the head. The only way he got through skinning out the head was by jamming big globs of Vick's Vaporub up his nose... :chuckle:
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You should go on fear factor, Michelle
Damn, she works around it; she doesn't EAT it! Michelle? Tell me you don't stand around with a Bud Light gnawing at these skulls behind the scenes...
No, I don't drink. lol
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OK, so I'm learning a bunch on this thread. I had the skull in the bucket with the heater for 8 weeks. I took it out and rinsed it off. It looked pretty darn clean. The bit of nasal work on the tip of the jaw is still there, but I imagine it'll come off soon enough. I've had the skull in the dish soap for about 1.5 weeks now and will get it out soon. I think I need to change the solution again to see the final gains in degreasing. Now it's off to the hair salon to find some goofy peroxide........... Wish I was a bleach blonde....
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has anybody heard of picking the skull as clean as you can and then putting it in a plastic bag hanging it from a tree and making a couple holes in the bag to let the flies in skull will be clean in a couple weeks not sure if it the right way to do it though. curious if there is a way to fix my bear skull i think i must have bleached it when there was still some grease on it because it came out kinda yellowish
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Did you use bleach or peroxide?
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i used some peroxide i got from the beauty supply store 40% if i remember correctly
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Well I would start by putting 1/8 cup of Dawn Dish Soap in 3 gallons of water with a fish tank heater for 3 weeks. Change the solution every 2 days. After 3 weeks rinse the skull and put it in clean water 24 hours.
Make sure you check the skull everyday for the first few days.
Than pull it out and let it dry for a week and see if you see any grease. If you do back in the degreaser.
After 3 weeks of dawn I normally put my bear skulls in Acetone for a couple months.
You can try this if you wish but after putting the peroxide on it you do it at your own risk because I have never done it after doing the peroxide.
Though the dawn and water should neutralize the peroxide. Especially after 3 weeks.
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I have heard that Simple Green works great for degreasing, do you know if it works better that Dawn or whether the Simple Green degrades the bone or anything?
Thanks
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There is no telling what it will do to the skull. No one that I knoe uses or talks about using it. Dawn, Ammonia, or Acetone ase the 3 common ones.
Some mix the dawn and ammonia. Others use straight acetone (mainly to finish Bear). That is after a dawn/water for several weeks.
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thanks
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Dawn, Ammonia, or Acetone ase the 3 common ones.
I cant see Simple Green being any more damaging to a skull than acetone.
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Dawn, Ammonia, or Acetone ase the 3 common ones.
I cant see Simple Green being any more damaging to a skull than acetone.
Well I am not going to give him or anyone on this site the big thumbs up and the go ahead to try something I have not used, personally.
It's not what the Simple Green alone will do that I have a hang up on. It's the combination and potential reaction to what ever chemical they used in the boiling/cleaning process. Also the peroxide they use to whiten it. You never know when or what kinda reaction you will get with mixing 2 chemicals.
It may be nothing more than changing to color of the skull. It could potentially cause a severe reaction resulting in injury or the loss of a skull. You may not see any reaction right away. It may eat away at your skull slowly and after several years it becomes brittle and crumble away.
Am I being overly cautious? Yeah probably, but it is not my personal skull that could be ruined.
I use Dawn/Water and Acetone. I use the acetone straight and the Dawn/Water mixture.
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Well, I've gotta admit it. I stopped by Michelle's shop the other day and took a look at the skulls she's working on. I was very impressed. I will probably give the maceration technique a try next year. I never thought those delicate nasal passage bones were cleanable. Michelle does the best skull work I think I have ever seen. Great work Michelle, and it was nice meeting you.... :tup:
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Thanks Pathfinder I appreciate the kind words! It was also great meeting with you the other day. Hope your drive home was uneventful?
Let me know when you try the maceration thing and if you have any questions. Feel free to call if needed.
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After years of boiling my skulls I decided to give maceration a try...mainly because of this thread by Michelle!
heres a few skulls from 2009 hunting season fresh outta the pot
[smg id=9296]
Heres my pathetic 2009 bow BT..many of you know I passed on much bigger deer than this one this year in hopes of a monster but with just a few days left in late bow 2009...I went ahead and stuck him! he's fresh from the bucket
[smg id=9297]
[smg id=9298]
most of this crap will go back in the soup for a while but I thought me and my lil helper could give it a once over...I sometimes like the look of the slightly yellowed skulls so all grease doesnt necessarily have to be gone..my skulls..my liking!
[smg id=9299]
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Nice job Tat. I am going to do the same next year. A visit to Mich's convinced me also.
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I actually put em all back in the pot for more degreasing but the deer is about ready and in the house!
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Well, here I go. A buddy of mine wants me to euro his mulie from this season. Just bought the bucket and the fish tank heater. :tup:
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Have you started on that buck yet Pathfinder? :)
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lots of GREAT information in this thread thank you all!
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Have you started on that buck yet Pathfinder? :)
Holy Lord Mich... I needed a place to do it, since my garage burned down this summer and they haven't quite finished building it yet, so I found an isolated back room in one of the bays waaaay in the back of the unused maintenance building at the Armory where I work. I stuck the head in the bucket, turned on the heater and was checking and adding a little water every couple of days to keep it submerged. THen I went to Montana on my deer trip. When I got back, the armory manager asked if I was "about done with the dead hooker I was obviously keeping locked up in the bay". Holy $#@! that thing smells. I am not going to lie, I am not looking forward to rinsing the skull and changing the water when I get back to work next week... If I would have done this at home in the garage, I would be in some real trouble right now...
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I will say that after reading this post I am going to have to "up" the tip to my taxidermist.
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Pathfinder101 it's not that bad. :chuckle:
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Pathfinder101 it's not that bad. :chuckle:
..compared to..
1.____________
2.____________
3.____________
You fill in the blanks. I can't think of anything....
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Pathfinder101 it's not that bad. :chuckle:
..compared to..
1.__My dogs farts __________
2.__Skinning a Skunk with over active glands__________
3.__Wet Coyote in summer________
You fill in the blanks. I can't think of anything....
:chuckle:
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It's not that bad huh? So possibly your sense of smell is shot or you are used to the smell? :chuckle:
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Pathfinder101 it's not that bad. :chuckle:
..compared to..
1.__My dogs farts __________
2.__Skinning a Skunk with over active glands__________
3.__Wet Coyote in summer________
You fill in the blanks. I can't think of anything....
:chuckle:
OK, I must be doing something wrong, because I am intimately familiar with these three things, and I honestly think that skinning a skunk in full rut is the only thing that is as bad or worse (and then, only because it sticks with you for so long).
I'll take dog farts or wet coyote waaaaaay before flesh rotting in warm water any day...
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I can handle gutting, gut shots, but the smell of brains :puke:
You earn every penny when you scramble and rinse the brains :puke:
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You guys are to sensitive!
Yummy looks like pudding! :drool: It can be any flavor you want it to be. :chuckle:
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It takes one of a kind. I have 5 deer 2 elk and a moose going rite now. You want to talk about smell :chuckle:.Its not that bad
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You guys are to sensitive!
Yummy looks like pudding! :drool: It can be any flavor you want it to be. :chuckle:
Makes me all ready to dig in for Thanksgiving dinner :yike:
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What kind of glue do you use to keep the teeth in?
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elmers glue or zap-a-gap
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Krazy glue works well also
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Well, I have an update to my Maceration project. I wish I had better to report.
Sometime while I was in Montana, evdiently my fish tak heater burned out and quit working. I suspected this when I poked my head into the room where I was keeping it here at work, and noticed that the water level was about the same as when I filled it up last.
Today, I finally had a little time, so I pulled out the skull to rinse it off.
The parts that the the bacteria have cleaned off look fantastic, but there is still a LOT of gristle left on the skull, particularly on the underside of it and in the eyesockets. The Armory manager is done with the smell of rotting flesh out in the maintenance bay, and I may be retiring in the next month or so, and there is NO WAY Mrs. Pathfinder is going to put up with this smell in the garage.....so....
I am going to have to abort the mission, break out the boiling pot, and finish the job that the bacteria started...
...I am not going to lie, I am not really looking forward to it....
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I just pulled out 2 heads that I am doing and am impressed how well the whole maceration thing works. I put one head in 2 weeks ago, last week changed out some of the water and put tthe other head in and now both are completely cleaned! I didn't have to pick a single piece of junk off of either of them. I hit them with the hose and now they are soaking in my utility sink in a nice warm bath of Dawn. It is nice to not have to dig and cut out the nasal and ear bones just to get stuff clean. I am glad that the stinky part os over because my wife and kids hated going into the barn to feed my cows. They are very happy now! :chuckle:
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:chuckle: Pathfinder101 just tell her not to go into the garage for a week. Open the doors for a few hours smell will be gone.
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I don't have a haybarn. If I thought it would be done in a couple of weeks, I would go buy a new fishtank heater and just resoak it. How long is it supposed to take?
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How long has it been soaking?
It should only take a week at most to get the rest off. You need a good fish tank heater though. Order the one in my post on the first page. I have some that I have had going on 3 years.
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Been soaking since the general deer season (about the 20th of October). There is still a LOT on it. The skull cap and the face are clean. Most of the rest still has a lot on it, especially the underside. I must have bought a crappy heater..
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Or the heater was burned out for a while. Pull off what you can from the under side of the skull and put it in the bucket along with chunk of roten meat. New fish tank heater. 1 week should do it.
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OK. I got hit with about 30 things at work and didn't get to boil it today anyway. I had it in the soup for over a month when I KNOW the heater was working. Must have had too small a heater... :dunno:
WHat size should I be using (in a 5 gallon bucket)?
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I would recommend a heater that can keep your 5 gallon bucket of water heated to at least 75 - 85 degrees in winter. I wouldn't use anything less that the 150 Watts. Make sure the heater is submersible.
I use the 200 - 250 Watt heaters.
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2754055 (http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2754055)
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I am working on a elk skull as well, it has been in for two weeks. Most of the meat is gone, but the nasal cartilege is still intact? The fine skin is coming off the skull, but not with ease. I have changed the water twice, only dumping out 2/3 of the water and refilling with hot water. I am using the 250 watt heater so will soak it for another week. I also put a garbage bag over the skull which holds the evaporating water in, so haven't needed to replenish water during the week! Oh yea, the smell, holy hannah! I usually check it before dinner! :chuckle: Great post Michelle!!
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OKAY, headed to Petco right now to get a new heater. I must have been using one too small...
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...All right... back in the soup he goes....
Yeah, that's what I did wrong... I had an itty-bitty heater...
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Michelle,
I have a skull that has been sitting outside for two years in my garage. If I start this process and put some meat in it will itfinish cleaning the skull and whiten it?
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I did one last year that had been on top of my chicken coop for a couple of years. I soaked it in a bucket with a heater for a week, simmered it with sal soda for 1/2 hour (until all the rest of the meat fell off) soaked it in Dawn for a couple of days and then bleached it out. It looks as white as if it had been done fresh.
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Thanks PolarBear, where do I get sal soda?
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I get it through taxidermy supply like Van Dykes. The maceration with meat will probably work fine as well. You just need to soak it good to rehyrate the meat.
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SuperDave you only want to change 1/2 the water at a time. From now on I wouldn't change the water again.
The nose cartlige is the very last to come out. Don't force it or you will have to dig or it will break off and than you will have to dig it out.
I have got Deer and Bear skulls cleaning in around 10 days and Elk in 12 days. Usually waiting on the nasal cartlige to loosen.
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Michelle et al...
I killed a bull in 98 that I never skinned the head on... still full hide around the skull, ears and all... I'd love to get it to Euro stage someday...
Will this process work to get that fur/hide off there? As you know, its about useless trying to actually skin it at this point...
Thanks for any advice!
My buddy just finished my big bull yesterday... he boiled it... then he used peroxide to get him white... man its nice. I'll get some pics up this weekend.
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Yes but you will have a harder time and it will take a lot longer because of the meat being dryed on but i see no reason why it can't be done.
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Thanks... I will pick up a tank heater and give it a shot... or...maybe I'll wait till summer, hell, its already been 3 years... so...
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Well, I just checked the soup. Working much better now that I have an adult-sized heater... :chuckle:
(Still smells like the underside of a Tyrannosaurus Rex's nutsack....)
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Well, I just checked the soup. Working much better now that I have an adult-sized heater... :chuckle:
(Still smells like the underside of a Tyrannosaurus Rex's nutsack....)
nice...fumunda cheese
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Well, I just checked the soup. Working much better now that I have an adult-sized heater... :chuckle:
(Still smells like the underside of a Tyrannosaurus Rex's nutsack....)
nice...fumunda cheese
:chuckle:
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Okay, they're finally done. Good Lord, that took a while. I don't know that I will ever do that again. Stunk pretty bad, took a LONG time, and I still wound up picking at the thing for a couple of hours to get it completely clean, but I've gotta say, they are the prettiest skulls I have ever done. Love how the nasal bones stay intact. I'll try to remember to take some pics and post them later.
I guess I could put up with all of it again, except the smell. I just don't have a place at my house that I can stink up like that and remain married... :chuckle:
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You must just have bad luck. I just Macerated a Bison Skull and it only took 10 days to finnish cleaning with about 5 minutes total of pulling loose flesh off. It's been in the degreaser for 2 days now. :o
You must not have had your temperature up high enough and it didn't help that your first heater gave up the ghost half way through.
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Probably not bad luck Mich, more like lack of attention to detail. You are probably right, that first heater killed my whole operation, but with the second heater, it seemed like the water was pretty warm. I don't know, maybe not warm enough.. :dunno: There were still chunks of fat clinging to the underside of the skull that I had to pick out around the earholes.
THe two bear skulls I had in the same soup both came out nicely, and only required a little scrubbing with a toothbrush to finish. I did have an interesting game of mix and match trying to put the bear teeth back in. Both skulls were just about exactly the same size... :chuckle:
Thanks for all the advice. :tup: I am sure that the buddy I did these for is going to be a happy camper. I think I am going to deliver them tomorrow..
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You forgot to degease the Bear Skulls. Did you whiten them already? If so can't you see the grease leaching out of the skulls?
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I think when I need a skull done I'll just pay Michelle to do it. I don't have the patience for that.
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I think when I need a skull done I'll just pay Michelle to do it. I don't have the patience for that.
:yeah:
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:bdid:
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I'm planning on making a batch of stinks skull soup next year. I have fallen in love with euro's.
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You forgot to degease the Bear Skulls. Did you whiten them already? If so can't you see the grease leaching out of the skulls?
No, I degreased them. I put them in a bucket with dawn while I was in Ohio at the National Finals Shooting Match. Was only supposed to be 4 days but we got snowed in at the Cleveland Airport, so it wound up being over a week.
Here's a picture of mine. My buddies' deer and bear are in the truck, but I'll get a pic of them before I deliver them.
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Yeah look at the back of your Bear Skull and on the underside. See where it looks wet? Thats grease. It takes months to degrease a Bear Skull.
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Yeah look at the back of your Bear Skull and on the underside. See where it looks wet? Thats grease. It takes months to degrease a Bear Skull.
Oh, didn't know it had to degrease for so long. It's not doing it yet. Oh well...if it starts leakin' I'll just hang it up higher on the wall... :chuckle: :chuckle:
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I have 3 deer & 2 elk done with the maceration. Now I will degrease them, does the tank heater still need to be used while degreasing?
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I have 3 deer & 2 elk done with the maceration. Now I will degrease them, does the tank heater still need to be used while degreasing?
Yes.
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Yes
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Thanks! BTW very informative thread. This is the kind of thing I love about Hunting-WA.
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Thanks! BTW very informative thread. This is the kind of thing I love about Hunting-WA.
:yeah:
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Michelle, I screwed up! So I've been wanting to try this for some time. So I decided to try it with the little raghorn bull I shot last week. I skinned the head out and cut off the neck meat and then put it in a tub of water and turned on the aquarium heater. Well tonight I was thinking about it and decided to re-read this post. Yeah I should have re-read it first. I failed to cut out the eyes, remove the brains, while I did cut off the neck me I didn't remove the facial muscles. My question to you is. How bad did I screw up? will it eventually work but just take longer or do I have to take it out (it's already fairly ripe :chuckle:) and remove the eyes and brains, etc...? Thanks for the help.
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How long has it been in the maceration?
I've never put one in with brains and eyes before.
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How long has it been in the maceration?
I've never put one in with brains and eyes before.
Since Tuesday. So Three full days. I guess it's a good thing it's only a raghorn so I'm not too worried about how it turns out. I just want to learn how to do it right. I guess this will be a little experiment.... :chuckle: :chuckle: If I get a buck I'll make sure to do it right...
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Oh before I forget. How long does it usually take for an elk skull to be macerated clean? Just so I can compare to how long mine takes. if it eventually works...
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My bull this year took about 2 1/2 weeks to macerate completely clean.
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If I ever decide to kill another deer I think I will try this method. Thanks Michelle for the work into putting this on here. I have always boiled mine. I do like to experiment with new procedures though.
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Is the lower jaw on it as well?
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yes
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:o
OK, never put one in with the lower jaw on. You leave the tounge in it to.
I'd suggest maybe pulling it out and cutting off as much meat as you can. If the brains are not already gone use a jet setting on a spray nozzel and blow them out. Than put it back in.
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sounds like a plan. Thanks again.
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If the brains are not already gone use a jet setting on a spray nozzel and blow them out. Than put it back in.
Make sure you are wearing your Sundays best when doing this. :chuckle:
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Dermisted beetles 8)
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Beetles are a pain in the butt to keep the 10 months out of the year that you don't need them.
Maceration is the way to go, no more boiling, bugs or picking!
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sooo. I pulled the skull out today after it had been sitting in warm fetid water since Tuesday. I cut out the eyes, removed the lower jaw/tongue, removed as much meat as possible from the rest of the skull and used the jet setting on the hose to remove the brains. While I'm sure this I've done grosser. I can't remember when :chuckle:. This was pretty bad. mainly because this was a very hands on project. My wife made the mistake of coming and checking to see what I was doing. She immediately informed me that I was to wash my hands with bleach as soon as I was done and possibly burn my clothes. I needed to shower right away and I'm not allowed to touch our baby boy for at least 2 days.... I didn't even argue :chuckle:. I have since washed my hands with bleach, soap (several times) Lysol disinfectant, and hand sanitizer. I can still smell the rot on my hands. Moral of the story A0 do it right the first time and B) wear gloves. :chuckle:
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sooo. I pulled the skull out today after it had been sitting in warm fetid water since Tuesday. I cut out the eyes, removed the lower jaw/tongue, removed as much meat as possible from the rest of the skull and used the jet setting on the hose to remove the brains. While I'm sure this I've done grosser. I can't remember when :chuckle:. This was pretty bad. mainly because this was a very hands on project. My wife made the mistake of coming and checking to see what I was doing. She immediately informed me that I was to wash my hands with bleach as soon as I was done and possibly burn my clothes. I needed to shower right away and I'm not allowed to touch our baby boy for at least 2 days.... I didn't even argue :chuckle:. I have since washed my hands with bleach, soap (several times) Lysol disinfectant, and hand sanitizer. I can still smell the rot on my hands. Moral of the story A0 do it right the first time and B) wear gloves. :chuckle:
I hear ya Grundy. I tried this two years ago (you can read my pathetic process earlier on this thread) and I didn't use a big enough aquarium heater and it turned into a horrible, smelly fiasco. I have been to Michelle's shop and I can tell you that she turns out the most impeccable, museum-quality skulls I have seen, but as for me and mine...we are back to boiling. Best of luck to ya :tup:(better luck than I had anyway.. :chuckle: )
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grundy53. . . . .Leson Learned! ! ! ! :chuckle:
BTW some of you guys are way to sensitive. :chuckle:
I can have a deer and Bear skulls completely meat free in 5 - 7 days. Elk are 10 days.
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I tried the fly larva and wait method :bdid: I about puked. I had maggots crawling on me and the meat and brains turned into a grey mush. Worst part is I have to do it one more time :bash: I cut my finger while doing it. I was sure I would die.
I also had to wash everything 10 times. The worst part was when I was hanging them back in the tree some of the sweet smellin' juice ended up in my hair. :bdid:
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this seems like a pretty gross way to do a euro mount.. :puke:
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this seems like a pretty gross way to do a euro mount.. :puke:
:yeah: Agreed!
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It's really not that bad if you do it right. I've had beetles before and they stink too.
Grundy have you stuck a thermometer in to see what the temp is? It goes way faster at 90 degrees or so. I usually use a couple big fish tank heaters on their highest setting.
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idk.. saw above the ear below the eye an the to the corner of the lip..remove meat..boil half hour ish..spray paint bone white.. like an hours worth of work tops an no smelly tub of water hanging out in the garrage for a few weeks ?? :dunno:
idk i have a bull i might try this out with..at my brothers house :chuckle:
end results look pretty good tho :tup:
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Son of a batch of cookies!!! I'm about five days in, and my gag reflexes have never had a workout like this before. That gets rank! Anyways, I actually wanted to ask, after the maceration, I degrease first and then peroxide, am I right? Also how long roughly for each step? And also would I be able to use hydrogen dioxide instead of peroxide?
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Yes. After it macerates you will degrease it and than whiten it. I use dawn dish soap and water 1 tbls per gallon of water. Chage every 2 to 3 days. How long depends on the amount of grease in the skull.
I don;t know anything about hydrogen dioxide. So I'd say don't use it.
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I did one this year to try it out. I just boiled it for a couple hours in a mix of baking soda and water, sprayed it off with high pressure garden hose nozzle and then soaked it in hydrogen peroxide for a day or two. Not as professional looking but faster and not quite as gross.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi73.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi238%2Fcrazysccrmd%2FIMG_20121021_160404.jpg&hash=23d01ee13b0fbafa04ec4b188b650f3f3b1e1489)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi73.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi238%2Fcrazysccrmd%2FIMG_20121124_230817.jpg&hash=03ae53a598e96c30767d241d4af47f00ed80f486)
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Ok, thanks for the info Michelle. So did you ever manage to get pics of the rest of the process?
Nice skull crazysccrmd, last time I boiled a skull, I cracked off the nosebones just like yours, and I want to keep those on this time.
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I am waiting for my neighbor to piss me off again, then the stinky thing goes into the pot. Next to his place of course. :chuckle:
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We had 2 deer skulls and we left them outside all winter and beginning of summer, then in August we put each in a 5 gallon bucket and left them outside in the heat, all the skin fell off within a week. Is there anything I should watch out for? Like rotting or pieces falling off?
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Ok, thanks for the info Michelle. So did you ever manage to get pics of the rest of the process?
Nice skull crazysccrmd, last time I boiled a skull, I cracked off the nosebones just like yours, and I want to keep those on this time.
Nosebones usually fall off if you overboil it. If you macerate they won't, but they also stay intact if you don't overboil. I have found that a good rolling boil for 2-3 hours will take everything off that you need it to (yes, you still have to do some "picking") without the bones falling apart. For bleaching I go to the local beauty supply store and buy Salon Care 50 Volume Creme. It comes in sort of a gooey cream/paste that sticks well to the bone and is easy to apply. They were a little reluctant to sell it to me (they are only supposed to sell it to licensed beauticians) but when I told them that I wasn't putting it on my head and that I was just bleaching bones with it they let me buy a couple of bottles. I have found a bottle will do two skulls with some to spare.
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Alright, so my skulls been soaking at around 85 degrees for six days, and I haven't pulled it out to check it yet, should I be checking it every couple days? Also, when some scum forms on top, do I just freshen up the water, or completely replace it?
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I feel sorry for you guys..I used to do mounts this way, got tired of the mess. Now I just buy Mountain Mikes reproduction skulls. Easy, clean and no bad smelly....
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I feel sorry for you guys..I used to do mounts this way, got tired of the mess. Now I just buy Mountain Mikes reproduction skulls. Easy, clean and no bad smelly....
Can you post up a few pics of how your mounts have turned up? Thanks.
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But they look fake. I wanted to mount an old 6x6 bull that I have kicking around on one of those fake skulls but they just didn't look right to me. :dunno: I'll stick with the stinky maceration.
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I feel sorry for you guys..I used to do mounts this way, got tired of the mess. Now I just buy Mountain Mikes reproduction skulls. Easy, clean and no bad smelly....
Can you post up a few pics of how your mounts have turned up? Thanks.
Yep...check back tomorrow
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I've used a mountain mikes skull kit, for some sheds, I think it looks fake too.
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You don't want to deal with the stink, have a taxidermist do it, either by maceration or beetles.
Personally I wouldn't want a fake skull. I don't know why. But I just like having the real thing.
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Question for ya michelle! I have a couple skulls that I simmered with dawn soap and water. Then dumped out that water and simmered in hydrogen peroxide and water. Is it too late to do the degreasing process? They look great right now but I don't want the grease to bleed out later. Also I have a skull my girlfriends dad did for her a couple years ago and the grease has bled through badly. Is there any way I can degrease it still? Maybe soak in your dawn mixture or acetone? I sure wish I would've read this thread before now.
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Lenvw,
Put some gloves on and pull the skull out. Pull all the meat off you can. If the nose cartlige dosn't pull out easy don't force it. Just throw the meat in the bucket. Then put the skull back in. Just add enough water to keep the skull covered. Every couple days check the skull and pull off loose meat. Once all the meat is off you can start degreasing.
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enaz,
Yeah you can degrease them in Dawn dish soap and water. It's going to take a while because you have baked the grease into the skull when you boiled it.
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A couple of the Mikes mounts and one real one. The Mikes look real enough for me without the hassel of whole process. Also most of my real ones I have tend to flake skull material over time. Seems Im constantly cleaning up white flakes...Ill stick with the Mikes.
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Thanks michelle ! I'll let you know how it goes. I have one skull that I froze after skinning because I didn't have time to boil. I think I'll try the maceration process this time. Mike makes a bracket for mounting skulls to burls and plaques called "the positioner" . the angle is adjustable and they worked pretty good. They also hold the skull out a little from whatever you mount them on.
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Thanks for the info Michelle.
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A couple of the Mikes mounts and one real one. The Mikes look real enough for me without the hassel of whole process. Also most of my real ones I have tend to flake skull material over time. Seems Im constantly cleaning up white flakes...Ill stick with the Mikes.
I have two skulls that have flaked. Both of them I bleached with actual bleach and that stuff is brutal on bone. Since switching to hairdresser's peroxide I don't have that problem anymore.
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The flaking is usually from overheating the bone (boiling). Bleach is very hard on the bone and will make it flake and even dissolve.
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When doing the peroxide soak, do I use straight peroxide, or do I dilute it?
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What strength are you using? I use 30% and I don't dilute it. I only soak for about 12 hours to start.
Than I put the skull in hot water (as hot out of the tap as you can get it) for a couple hours. Than pull out and let it dry for several days. If it isn't white enough put it back in the peroxide for another 6-8 hours. That is my limit using 30% peroxide. Other wise your skull will start to soften.
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Just figures, I find out about a better method just after I'm almost finished boiling the skull of the first deer I have taken! :'( This is a great thread, lots of useful information. I was wondering which brand of heater is recommended. The link in the original post isn't valid any longer.
Thanks,
Dino
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few questions:
1. The joints where the skull pieces meet are loose so I was going to get some zap a gap to fix them but can't find that stuff anywhere so is regular super glue going to work?
2. Should I glue the joints before I apply hydrogen peroxide or should I whiten first?
3. How do you apply the peroxide without getting it on the antlers? Michelle I see you "soak" yours, does that mean you set it in a bucket of peroxide?
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I use regular super glue. Glue only after all bleaching is done. I mix 40 or 50 volume peroxide cream with haridressers bleach Basic White II into a pancake batter type consistency and paint it on with a brush avoiding anything that you do not want bleached.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv103%2FPolrbear%2FPicture001-1.jpg&hash=ea8f787e0ecca663a8bb97556e113221b8b22fa2)
Here are some more nice, white maceration bucks.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv103%2FPolrbear%2FDSCN1577.jpg&hash=878f049a433b9df5d0ee925cc7a5d678be59f020)
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I use regular super glue. Glue only after all bleaching is done. I mix 40 or 50 volume peroxide cream with haridressers bleach Basic White II into a pancake batter type consistency and paint it on with a brush avoiding anything that you do not want bleached.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv103%2FPolrbear%2FPicture001-1.jpg&hash=ea8f787e0ecca663a8bb97556e113221b8b22fa2)
Here are some more nice, white maceration bucks.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv103%2FPolrbear%2FDSCN1577.jpg&hash=878f049a433b9df5d0ee925cc7a5d678be59f020)
This is what I do too. I like working with the paste. I also seran wrap the skull after I apply the paste. If you glue it before you bleach it it will show and not look good.
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The Saran Wrap is a good pointer Grundy I forgot about that. I no longer use the paste stuff but it does work great, is simple to use and easy to find.
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If you saran wrap make sure it is in a good warm place. The heat will help it penetrate better. I also let my skull sit in really hot water for a while, blow them dry with an air compressor then put the peroxide mix on.
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Well, I just picked up a gallon of 20 volume peroxide, so hopefully that will work. Only one way to find out I guess.
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20 Volume is only 6% peroxide. The Brown bottle peroxide you buy in the store is 3%. I use 30% on my skulls. You can use either but the lower % the longer it takes to work.
10 Volume is 3%
20 Volume is 6%
30 Volume is 9%
40 Volume is 12%
I use 40 Volume on skulls I can't soak.
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Dang, I was assuming that meant 20%, sure am glad you said something before I cracked that sucker open. Thanks. Guess ill be heading back to the salon store.
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Can you coat the lower part of the antlers with like vaseline or something to keep the peroxide off ??
BTW where do you get 30% peroxide, I would like to get some ?
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:yeah:
Most I have found is 12%.
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I found 30% on amazon, but it was around $100/jug, I'm to Dutch for that. I do have another question though, after the maceration, can I just throw it straight into the dawn solution, or do I need to wait a little while?
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I usually go over the skull with a tooth brush and soap and rinse it. Than put it in the dawn solution.
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Damn Polarbear. I should have taken you up on that offer. Those look nice! I think I'll throw it out in the ant pile and let them macerate a bit.
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:yeah:
Most I have found is 12%.
I would check with a hair stylist or a pharmacy?
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Did a Maceration on my Kodiak Griz, turned out well
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:yeah:
Most I have found is 12%.
I bought some from a pool supply company that was 28%, I believe. They claim that DHS will only allow them to sell for verified use in pools only, so I had to lie. Hair salon supply outlets have also claimed to me that they are allowed to sell only "limited" quanities "according to the FBI".
I haven't been able to verify federal rules requiring this
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The pool supply stuff is the best I have found, although I have heard of people finding higher strength concentrations online.
I use pool stuff. Baquacil oxidizer is the popular stuff.
Robodad I have never coated the vase of the antlers, but some do. Just place the skull in a container, fill with peroxide to just below the antler bases, then wrap the bases (just under the antler burrs, not on the antler) with some paper towels or terry cloth rags. This will soak up the peroxide, but poor peroxide over the rag every couple hours to keep them wet.
One thing to be careful with is if your skull isn't degreased properly it will foam up like crazy in the peroxide, you don't want any of the foam getting on the horns.
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The baquicil pool oxidizer is 27%. You don't need anything stronger. Your just wasting your time by looking. I used it for a few years. Til I started picking it up when I baught Taxi Supplies because it was the same price.
Make sure you don't get that stuff on your skin it will burn you like a son of a ****.
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Hey Michelle, is it necessary to use the acetone, or can that step be skipped?
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I usually only use Acetone on Bear/Cougar/Predators.
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Ok, thanks Michelle. And also, do you keep the electrical tape and paper towel around the bones while its in the dawn solution?
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Michelle, how did you figure out the dawn mixture? And also by using a higher rate of dawn to water, do you think the degreasing process would go quicker?
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No I only tape it after it has been whitened and while it is drying. Try not to use paper towels with pictures or colored printing on it.
I got the ratio of Dawn and Water from another taxidermist. I do not think adding more dawn will quicket the degreasing process. Hot water (115 degrees) and water changes every 2-3 days is what you need.
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What do you suppose I could do about this ???
It is the stuff from the elk rubbing on whatever flaking off
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi173.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fw55%2Fbb021099%2FIMAG0592_zps9fa3a9fb.jpg&hash=5c845d6e8c87234e8037229f0ea016fbe63bf178)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi173.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fw55%2Fbb021099%2FIMAG0591_zpsfa6785f4.jpg&hash=2283230d23339678cd3c9f939fde78b458ae32dd)
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What do you mean what to do about it? Do you want it off or do you want to keep it?
If you want to keep it, good luck. Just be careful.
If you want it off you can remove it. Use a wire brush or pick it off. It looks like it will eventually flake off anyway over time.
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What do you mean what to do about it? Do you want it off or do you want to keep it?
If you want to keep it, good luck. Just be careful.
If you want it off you can remove it. Use a wire brush or pick it off. It looks like it will eventually flake off anyway over time.
I guess I should have been more specific in that I am wondering what you do when that sort of thing happens to the ones your working on ?? I just brushed it off with a stiff brush but now it doesn't look like it did when shot so thats why I was curious what I could have done to fix it. Sorry for being so vague !!
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You mean what could you have done to repair it after it cracked?
Nothing really. You could have just left it alone and if it does it does.
Is the antler white under all the stuff you removed?
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You mean what could you have done to repair it after it cracked?
Nothing really. You could have just left it alone and if it does it does.
Is the antler white under all the stuff you removed?
Nah it isn't white but lighter in color then the rest of the set, I thought you may have a great idea to make it right again, I guess the answer is not to let it happen in the first place eh !!!
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Apparently I'm not getting what you want.
Are you asking if I have a great way to prevent the stuff from cracking and coming off or how to resatin the light spots?
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I don't think there's much you could have done to prevent it. I always try to leave the mud and bark stuff on the bases but its pretty impossible through all the moisture with Macerating and degreasing. Just color it up it will look fine
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So I was perusing this thread again and couldn't find how long you soaked the skulls in peroxide?
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It depends on the strength of peroxide. Strong stuff just a day, weak stuff a week. What kind of peroxide are you planning to use?
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I usually use 40 volume paste and paint it on then wrap in selafain. not sure what percentage 40 volume Is.
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40 Volume Hair developer is 12% peroxide. I'd paint it on heavy and wrap it in plastic wrap to keep it from drying. After 24 hours rinse it off with hot water. Than let it soak in hot water for about 30 minutes to dilute the peroxide. If it's not white enough after drying for several days apply it again.
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why keep it from drying? I only ask because I'm in the same stage right now and my peroxide is on it's second day and I didn't wrap in plastic
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Peroxide is no longer active once it has dried.
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what do I do about the teeth? I've put peroxide on it twice already and the skull looks awesome but there is still plaque on the teeth. It may have faded slightly but it's still pretty dark. what can I do to clean them?
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I personally like the teeth to stay dark. I purposely leave them as dark as i can, removing most and the ones I can't get out i stain to match. Just personal preference after having done many pure white. Did you degrease the skull and teeth or just clean and whiten?
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i degreased as well it just didn't seem to touch the teeth so i thought it would come off with the peroxide and it isn't.
what would some white paint look like on the teeth?
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Don't paint the teeth! Get a dental tool and scrape the build up off then re bleach with peroxide if you want nice, clean white teeth!
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My cow elk skull is in a cooler with the lid down, its not air tight. temp is 86ish. Put it in on the 24th befor bed. I have a few questions. The skull was floating and I had to turn it upside down to let the air out. Is this cause of the bacteria releasing gases and am I gonna have to use something to hold it down? There is some pinkish skum floating already, is this normal or did I do something wrong? I did not disinfect the cooler beforehand and there was a tiny spot of mold growing that I cut off the head while cleaning it for the cooler.
I also recommend closeing the door behind you when checking it cause it will stink up the house in a minute!!! :chuckle:
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*WARNING* I cheated and it cost me... here's my story. I ruined my mounts...
I see what you've done here Michelle, but I was in a hurry and am not home a ton, which is probably why this whole series of events took place.
I had a bear head, this years buck and a buck from like 8 years ago that I had left sitting in a field that still had some skin on it. The bear and this years deer I skinned (per your directions.. no eyes, no brain) and I boiled because I'm lazy. No maceration here.
THEN, I went and put it in a tub of water with dawn dish soap. Probably 3/4 cup in a 15 gallon tote for all 3 skulls. Temp ~85 degrees. Probably in there for 3 weeks. I didn't have a ton of time so I never actually emptied the water and added new. I was planning to, but I figured for the time being I'd just add some more soapy water. I probably did this 3 times. Now today I went to actually change the water like I"m supposed to... I pulled the skulls out. When i was scrubbing some of the gunk off with my hands, I lightly grazed the burrs at the antler base and they all just fell off. Since it was sitting on the ground (again VERY lightly, I've been very careful) the nose just disintegrated and fell off the skull. It was just entirely falling apart before my eyes. So now I have set it out to dry, no nose left, one antler with no burrs and its just as if its made out of chalk.
SO, while I have done many things not per process, I just figured none of this would hurt it too bad. WHAT DID I DO that made the skull and antlers like this? The preferred answer would not be "you did everything wrong idiot" but I'm trying to make sure I know which part is sensitive so I dont repeat it in the future...
Was it?
Boiling for 8 hours?
Soaking at 85 degrees for 3 weeks?
Too high of a concentration of soap by the end?
I'm sick about it. If I were a 10 year old version of myself I'd likely be in tears at this point. Even cutting corners I have a lot of work into these... :'(
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It was absolutely boiling for 8 hours. Without a doubt. Boiling is extremely hard on bone... That's why pros suggest not doing it. 8 hours of it is way way too long... Drying them is not going to save them, sorry to say. Curious why you boiled so long?
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It may have been more like 6 hours of boiling. It was the time it took to get the cartilage out of the nose and clean the skull. It actually looked very good out of the boil and took 10x more the abise as I was spraying it off and pulling flesh off. Still the problem? They didn't ever show signs of being fragile until after my attempt at the degrease soak.
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I can't see degreasing damaging the bone unless it was over heated or you added something other than water and soap. What your explaining sounds exactly like over boiled bone. I have one skull that was slightly over cooked back when I used to boil skulls and the burrs chipped off and the bone is very flaky and brittle.
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What did you put in the water to boil the skull?
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The only thing I put in that water to boil the skulls was water (and the skulls of course). Is that really the issue? I could've painted them an ivory color right after the boil and been happier with myself than i am right now...
What did you put in the water to boil the skull?
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Stang.....sorry that went to crap for you. I was going to shoot you a text about 30 minutes ago....I got distracted playing Temple Run 2.....if I knew you were in such pain I would have skipped the text and called.
Not to make it worse but post some pics.....sounds like it is a little rough.
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Stang,
The only thing that stands out is the boiling. I have put boiled skulls (brought in to me to finnish) in Dawn Dish Soap and water for months and never had a problem.
That is just odd.
Honestly can't help you with this as I have never run into this problem before.
I'll tell you what. Give me a call sometime. I have an idea that may allow you to display your antlers on another skull. Something fairly easy that you could try. I just don't want to spend the time to type that much.
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Definitely boiled too long. My dad did the same thing a couple years ago and ruined a couple deer skulls. Over boiling them makes them VERY brittle. They seem fine at first then turn absolutely brittle.
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Sure am glad I'm having Michelle do mine from last year. I'd surely do something wrong and ruin it.
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For those who are hell bent on painting skulls that they have messed up, use what is called "bass belly white". It is basically plain white with a tiny bit of yellow ochre. It is much closer to real bleached bone color that ivory or plain white. :twocents:
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Good info to pass along polar bear PolarBear. Though I doubt most are going to buy an airbrush to use the paint.
Though when on the rare ocation I need to wash an area with paint because of a discoloration or something I actually start with Superhide White and add Bass Belly White until I get the desired effect.
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I know a guy who mixes it and paints it on with a brush then wipes it off. The amount that get's in the pores is just enough to "fix" the color for the most part. It looks okay.
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Michelle / others,
Thank you for all of the information provided in this discussion. I have used this information to macerate (with aquarium heater), degrease (in Dawn & water with an "adjusted" aquarium heater to get temp up to a steady ~118 F), and whiten (with 3% hydrogen peroxide), my wife's November 2012 deer. I am VERY happy with the results. Thank you!!!
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I know it has been awhile but when I took my elk skull out to dry I got busy and forgot about it :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:. I decided to put the peroxide on it tonight. I am very pleased how it turned out. All of the details and sinus cavities are intact and it was already very white. The pictures are before I added the peroxide. The dark speckling is from dirt (it has been sitting out for awhile) it brushed right off. I will updated after the bleaching is done.
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Nice job Grundy, I had a taxi friend do my last bull. I was a little worried the beatles would eat the velvet but they left it alone. I will be doing my own euro mounts in the future. Thanks for the info everyone.
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Just got done skinning and prepping my Idaho whitetail head/skull tonight. It's ready for maceration. I figured I would revive this thread for anyone who has a skull to clean.
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What's up with the staining under the bur on the elk? Is the antler leaching blood?
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I'm not sure. I don't remember. But those pictures are before the peroxide.
sent from my typewriter
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I personally like the teeth to stay dark. I purposely leave them as dark as i can, removing most and the ones I can't get out i stain to match. Just personal preference after having done many pure white. Did you degrease the skull and teeth or just clean and whiten?
We like the teeth dark also. Just hard to do with this process.
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How long before the major part of the stench goes away? I got a skull brewing now. My neighbors haven't said anything yet but the smell aint good. its been about 6 days so far. Seems like it is just getting bad now.
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Not until you are done with the maceration process and start the degreasing. You need that stinking, rotting meat to feed the bacteria.
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It shouldn't take any longer than a week to finish the maceration process. If it takes longer than that your temp in not consistant or you didn't do a good job cleaning all the excess meat off...
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I'm waiting for a Spanish Coriente cow skull as soon as the guy has it butchered and was wondering what you guys could tell me about getting the horn caps off and how to clean them and keep them from cracking and flaking. I want to keep that polished look on them. Anyone ever do cow skulls? Thanks in advance!
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I've done a half dozen longhorn skulls and a dozen bison. Carefully remove the caps and set them aside before macerating the skull. I mixup a little mild bleach solution to soak the inside of the horns to kill the stank. Make sure you get them scrubbed out or you will regret it! If you like the polished look just sand the heck out of them until you get the old, dead layers off, polish with 0000 steel wool then shoot with a clear coat. I usually shoot a matte or semi-gloss finish so they don't wind up looking too fake. The last longhorn that I did, I had to sand over 1/2" of dead, ugly horn off of the tips to get them to a nice, shiny point. I also hit the bases on my bench belt sander to even them out and get a nice consistent edge. :twocents:
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