Post by: Bones on December 11, 2008, 01:36:21 AM
When the camera powers up, the top left corner of the LCD tells how much battery power remains. The top right corner of the LCD tells how many pictures were taken. And the time and date that each picture was taken is in the bottom right corner.
The camera is powered by an internal Sony lithium-ion battery and I get about 750 pictures on a charge. The control board is powered by a 9 volt battery like goes in a smoke detector. The 9 volt battery lasts for about three months. The camera's battery door can be opened to change the battery and memory card without removing the camera from the case.
The Yeti control board has a walk test light. This red LED lights up every time the board senses motion. This walk test cycle lasts as long as you want it to so that you can check the aim of the camera. After the board does not sense motion for 30 seconds, the LED blinks five times. Then the camera is armed and ready to take pictures at the next motion event. This board's motion sensor is very good and you rarely get false triggers. The board has nine dip switches that allow you to program the board for the settings you desire. The delay settings vary from 15 seconds to an hour. There is also a rapid pics mode. This is usually the setting that I use, but when I use this, I have to check my camera every day because it takes a picture every three seconds as long as it senses motion. Two weeks ago, I has 755 pictures in five hours.
I am not some electronics genious. The first camera that I took apart, I figured it would never work again, but it did. Now, I buy broken cameras and take them apart and repair them.
Here are some pictures of my last camera build, This is a Sony DSC-W200 (12.1 mega pixels)
I apply Bondoglass to the case with a small stick to make the 3-D tree bark pattern. Then I paint this with craft paints from Wal-mart and the seal this with Clear Matte Finish
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC00542480x560-1.jpg&hash=6c4697169cf0c4b65bf38f20fba4ee529d12e40d)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC00543480x425.jpg&hash=c46588492886c345abddbce054d3274513fd8452)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC00544480x349-1.jpg&hash=93025be043e9bff1ecb1ce7dd6c1888eafa78113)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC00545480x355-1.jpg&hash=4009da85c90c041929ef52ec1794eeffa75bceb2)
Post by: Bones on December 11, 2008, 01:37:51 AM
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC000261600x554.jpg&hash=8b9b16dae2decad9736d1cf8313a7478902f10bb)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC00983600x507.jpg&hash=b89286e98b09c276bd0be62263af44bd203acd63)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC03194600x450.jpg&hash=8a89c80a513d9330841477957992c835c21f8828)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC03619600x442.jpg&hash=b974426ae3e5b99e3961631dfa367313a90c5419)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC03885600x479.jpg&hash=3aa637bfa6fa9c3bbcc9330ad0e24dee33e38860)
Post by: PacificNWhunter on December 11, 2008, 07:52:19 AM
Post by: archery288 on December 11, 2008, 08:03:36 AM
Post by: bucklucky on December 11, 2008, 08:29:23 AM
Post by: NW-Eric on December 11, 2008, 08:50:24 AM
Post by: Bones on December 11, 2008, 09:20:33 AM
Bones
Post by: Craig on December 11, 2008, 09:38:18 AM
Post by: bigdave on December 11, 2008, 11:14:45 AM
Post by: bigdave on December 11, 2008, 01:55:02 PM
Will you include a parts list?
OK, I'll be patient......
I checked out the yeticam website. Looks doable, but I would like to know exactly what I will need to build one over my Christmas vacation. You've got me all fired up. ;)
Post by: fc2038 on December 11, 2008, 02:24:49 PM
Post by: WonkyWapiti on December 11, 2008, 07:39:15 PM
Post by: coonhound on December 11, 2008, 08:05:39 PM
Coon
Post by: Bones on December 11, 2008, 09:39:04 PM
(1) Black 1040 Pelican case - $16.00
(2) .65 focal fresnel lens - $2.50
(3) Power switch - $2.00
(4) Three wire servo - $6.00
(5) Control board - Horizontal with front mounted controls set up for W35 or W80 (this works for ALL W series cameras. $39.50
(6)Two wire connector for board power ( connects 9 volt to board) $1.00
Shipping - $6.00
Total bill from Yeticam $73.00
I don't recommend the cameras older than the W80. Starting with the W80, Sony introduced a new image processor. It is faster and conserves battery power. And also the W80 and newer cameras are full 1080 HD ( high definition).
Cameras on ebay
Sony DSC-W80 7.2 mega pixels about $50 or $60
Sony DSC-W90 8.1 mega pixels about $50 to $75
Sony Dsc- W200 12.1 mega pixels any where from $80 to $130
The recent cougar pictures that I posted were taken by a W90. The 4x4 winter scene whitetail buck above was a W80, and the golden eagle was a W80. All are great cameras.
Necessary tools are a drill, and a soldering iron. I use a 15 watt soldering iron from Radio shack.
$7.95
a glass cutter $3.95
A belt sander and dremmel tool speed thing up a bit
A few things that you need that are bought locally. A 1" X 1 1/4" PVC reducer for the case extension for the cameras extending lense. $.79.
Scraps of single strength glass- usually free from glass shops
Two 1/4" eye bolts, a 2 1/2 inch piece of 1' X1 " aluminim angle. And a 1/4" thumb screw.
Bondo glass
craft paints
Krylon clear finish (matte finish)
I am getting ready to build another camera in the next couple of days. I will post pics of the steps. The only mistake you can make is to not get started. I thought about doing this for two years before I finally got the lead out of my butt.
Bones
Don't hesitate asking questions
Post by: Machias on December 12, 2008, 08:09:17 AM
Post by: Charlie on December 12, 2008, 08:17:16 AM
Post by: bigdave on December 12, 2008, 09:11:42 AM
Are there any within the sound of my voice that would like to gather parts in the next couple of weeks and then have a build day in the Spokane area sometime in January?
I would provide heated shop area, hot coffee, and lunch. I also have all the tools available. (except a glass cutter) If we could get Bones to come and advise, perhaps we could take a collection to cover his gas money.
I would just like an excuse to meet some of you guys and we could all walk away with an awesome trailcam.
Bones,
I don't know where you're located but I would like to invite you to be our master trailcam adviser and technician!!
Post by: bucklucky on December 12, 2008, 09:25:54 AM
Thanks for all the info, thats exactly what I was looking for. There are so many things I need to save cash for still, a new bow, A knife from Rainshadow , new hunting clothes, a new truck, new pair of binos , and now a nother trail camera :bash:
Post by: gramps on December 12, 2008, 06:28:08 PM
Post by: shadowless_nite on December 12, 2008, 09:16:17 PM
realistically speaking.... how long are we looking for the average joe to put one of these together??? a few hours? 10+hours????? your has very nice detail and looks like it took a while to get all said and done. but someone whos never done this and just to get the camera functioning without making the fancy case?
Post by: Bones on December 12, 2008, 09:44:14 PM
Shadowless_nit. If I start a camera at 6:00PM, I am field testing it by 9:00PM
Then I do the camo and paint the next night. I made templates for the camera and board, so it takes just a few minutes to drill the case, mount the camera, and cut the lenses. It takes me less than one hour to take a camera apart, wire it and then put it back together.
I don't want to build cameras for anyone because this is something you have to learn yourself. After you do, you will be glad you did. All you have to do is take your time with the first one. After you see how it works, it will get very easy.
Bones
Post by: Machias on December 12, 2008, 10:43:14 PM
Give a man some fish and feed him for a day, teah him to fish and feed him for life. :IBCOOL:
Post by: Bones on December 12, 2008, 10:55:32 PM
Below is a couple of pictures of a shutter board from a W200. It takes about five minutes to take a camera apart to get it like in this picture. You have to solder three 30 gauge wires to this shutter board. The second picture shows where you make the solder connections. The red line is where you solder the red wire for the power connection. The blue line is where you solder the blue wire for the ground connection. And the white line is where you solder the white shutter wire.
While the soldering iron is heating up, I strip the three wires. I use a pair of nail clippers to do this. You only need about 1.8th of an inch of exposed wire. Then I tin the three wires. Keep applying solder until you get a small amount of excess built up on the wire.
The blue and white wires solder to the corners of the shutter pad. At the corners of that pad, you can see the tiny solder points where the pad is soldered to the board. Hold the tinned wire against that and apply the point of the soldering iron. When you see the solder flow, remove the iron.
Never apply heat to the board for more than two seconds. If the wire does not stick on the first attempt, retin the wire and try again. When the wire sicks, wiggle and tug on the wire to make sure you have a solid connection. The red wire connects to the power pad. After all three wire are connected to the board, put the camera back together. Strip a small amount of the wires, and then install the camera's battery.
Now touch the red wire to the blue wire, the camera will power up. Now touch the blue wire to the white wire, and the camera will take a picture. Then, I solder the wires to the female connector on the three wire servo, and attach it to the camera with a small piece of foil duct tape.
Now the camera is finished and it is time to work on the Pelican case.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FW200-4.jpg&hash=58e2f7842a7feff8d631d667079fc5f415c39c76)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FW200-5.jpg&hash=f15ef952cc99ca9239d5f45864be3e8042b960bc)
More information on these three cameras
http://www.pixcontroller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3266
Post by: Bones on December 13, 2008, 04:11:28 AM
Don't buy a 9 volt battery holder from Yeticam. I use a two wire connector from Radio Shack. These come in a pack of ten for $1.95. I use Velcro tape from Wal-Mart to hold the battery in the case.
The Sony Cameras come with a really good photo editing software CD. This is the best software that I have seen. It will also add the time and or date stamp to your pictures if you want to do that. You can put the stamp in any of the four corners of your pictures, and you can choose from four colors, white, yellow, red or blue. Sometimes the cameras you buy on Ebay don't come with this CD. I have several copies of this if anyone ever wants it.
Bones
Post by: gramps on December 13, 2008, 11:15:27 AM
Post by: bigdave on December 13, 2008, 02:19:19 PM
Post by: bigdave on December 13, 2008, 02:32:58 PM
I don't like to spend money. I make stuff that gets the job done often cheaper and better than store bought and stuff that will last longer. If I can't make it then I reluctantly buy the best I can afford looking at value as well as price. Our throw away society drives me nuts.
Let's say I spend a couple hundred bucks on a trailcam. I get it and it doesn't work or it works for a while and then something starts not working. My options are limited because I have no idea how the thing was put together or how it works. I can send it back hoping the company will not screw me, or just chalk it up to learning the hard way what not to buy.
With something you make yourself, YOU made it. If it starts not working YOU can fix it. You will know what to do because YOU built it. YOU can replace individual components because YOU understand what each part does. There is a great feeling of pride in this small measure of self-suffeciency. That is why I like to learn to build stuff myself.
Thanks again Bones, for being WILLING to teach.
Bigdave
Post by: Bones on December 13, 2008, 02:48:11 PM
I will bring some of my finished cameras.
But there is some prep work you can do to your Pelican case ahead of time Remove the rubber bladder from the main case. This just pulls out. There is a 1/8" layer of black neophrene foam in the lid that needs to be removed. This is held in place by an adhesive. Open the case and lay it in the freezer for two hours. Then slide a small screwdriver under one corner and lift up the corner until you can get ahold of it. Then peel it out of the lid. Save the bladder and foam to be reintalled later after the drilling and sanding on the case.
Bones
Post by: bigdave on December 13, 2008, 02:50:10 PM
Thanks
Post by: Ridgeratt on December 13, 2008, 04:09:29 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on December 13, 2008, 09:06:55 PM
Post by: sportsman002001 on December 14, 2008, 07:18:02 AM
Post by: bearbait on December 14, 2008, 08:14:57 AM
Bones: If I was looking to buy a sony w-200 needing repair, off of E-Bay, what should I look for that could be wrong with it and still have it work as needed for a trailcam?
I,ll buy the bag of the 9volt battery connectors from Radio Shack.
Bearbait
Post by: Bones on December 14, 2008, 10:19:03 AM
Bones
Post by: RLTW on December 14, 2008, 01:54:42 PM
Post by: bearbait on December 14, 2008, 06:46:09 PM
Bearbait
Post by: javman on December 14, 2008, 10:45:58 PM
Post by: Bones on December 14, 2008, 10:57:07 PM
These cameras have five major components, the LCD and Control board, the main board, the flash assembly, the shutter assembly and the lens assembly. The LCD and lens assembly are the most common parts that need to be replaced. When we all get together, I will show you how to tear down a camera and put it back together. This just takes a few minutes. I have a trouble shooting guide that helps determine the defective part. I have been stock piling parts for my cameras for future use, and I am not interested in letting my parts get away. I can help anyone fix a camera, but you have to get the parts yourself. These are all last years cameras. As they get older, more parts cameras will be available. There is already a surplus of W80 and W90 parts. The W200 sold for $350.00 six months back. These are expensive cameras, and there is just not as many of them as there is 80's and 90's. After the first of the year, the retailers will start closing out the 2008 cameras because the 2009 cameras will be available. When the W300's come down in price, there should be more 200's available and they should be cheaper.
When I first started using these cameras, I was concerned about how they would perform in cold weather. But I am not concerned any more. They work just as well as any other time of the year. We have has 20 inches of snow in the past 30 hours. One of my cameras was mounted on a stake on our CRP field. The camera was only about 24 inches off of the ground. Late this afternoon, I decided to go pick it up before it was buried in snow. I had to snowshoe over a half mile to get to it. It took this picture as I approached.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC097591600x450.jpg&hash=758329b70a7b25b0f4701adccc41775f7acd38aa)
It was 14 degrees. The bottom of the case was in the snow, and the case was covered with ice. It took this picture after I removed it from the stake. Homebrew cameras work very well in cold weather. It took this picture as I picked it up
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC09760600x450.jpg&hash=6750ed2ac6f9711293a89a7cc41b169b315b7339)
Picture frame glass is fine as long as it is clear. Some of the non-glare glass has a tint to it. I have a W200, and I am waiting on an order from Yeti. I will post pics of the steps as I put that camera together.
It is easy to wire these cameras for extra batteries and you can put up to an 8 gig memory in them. Then they are good for at about 8,000 pictures, but you have to use a 1060 Pelican case for this.
Bones
Post by: Machias on December 16, 2008, 11:30:27 AM
Post by: Antlershed on December 16, 2008, 11:45:15 AM
Post by: Grizzly95 on December 16, 2008, 11:50:22 AM
Post by: bigdave on December 16, 2008, 12:47:59 PM
The shop area that I have is very big....40x50. As long as the temperatures are not still sub-zero the heater should keep it comfortable. I do not mind hosting a big group of guys. Parking could get dicey if we end up piling up a lot of snow between now and then, but generally, we have a big frozen field to park in. If anyone has tables and some chairs they would come in handy. I have a workbench but it is stand up height.
I was planning on making a big pot of chili and coffee and hot chocolate. Anything anyone else wants to bring would be welcome!
Grizzly95,
I know this is not my thread, it was started by Bones, but it was my suggestion for the get together and Bones has graciously agreed. Unless someone objects, I will maintain a list here about those who are interested and also post info. Right now, there is a suggestion on the table for sometime between Dec. 26th and Jan. 5th. I too have those days off, so it would work for me. I am a little concerned about gathering all my stuff before then but I will try. Really it is up to Bones, cause he is traveling all this way to help us.
Bones, What say you? Does yeticam ship promptly?
Also, I should get a Sony w series with the battery charger? I see a lot of cams with nothing else but a wrist strap, so I would then have to get a battery and charger to go with it...right?
Post by: bigdave on December 16, 2008, 01:00:57 PM
List of attendees
Bones
Bigdave
Ridgeratt
Grizzly95
Bearbait
Gramps
Machias
Date still to be determined, but gather your stuff soon. (see Bones list) If I missed anyone let me know. Also let me know if you can get chairs and tables. (edit...DONE, Thanks Machias) When we have a date I will post directions to my place. Leave date suggestions in this thread. Merry Christmas, everyone!
Post by: Machias on December 16, 2008, 02:37:43 PM
The shop sounds great, I can bring a couple of tables and some chairs and something for a potluck. If parking gets to be an issue we can always park somewhere close by and car pool over. If this things gets too big maybe we can see about renting the Spokane Arena :chuckle:
We might need a couple of power cords with a outlet strip as well.
Post by: bigdave on December 16, 2008, 03:32:05 PM
You bet. I'm just super pleased that Bones said he will do this. It's gonna be fun. Thanks for the tables/chairs, I'm lookin' forward to meeting you.
Just so people have an idea of cost. Here is my price list so far for what I have purchased. Don't know if I got a good deal or not but I wanted to get stuff ordered so it will get here soon.
Used Sony DSC-W80.....(camera only) 56.86 (ebay)
Battery and charger.....26.50 (ebay)
2 Gig card and USB reader.....35.70 (walmart online)
Total...129.06
Now, I just have to order my Yeticam stuff!
Post by: Grizzly95 on December 16, 2008, 04:43:10 PM
Post by: Bones on December 16, 2008, 07:35:34 PM
BigDave, I buy Sandisk 2 gig cards on ebay for $7 to $10. They are as good as the Sony's and cheaper. The condition of the highways between here and Spokane will have a lot to do with when we can have this. We can always do it again and at another location. I am still waiting on a shipment from Yeti that I ordered two weeks ago. Usually I have my stuff by now. You can e-mail Mark at Yeti after you place an order, and he will tell you when to expect shipment.
You guys will be surprised when you see how easy this is. After you have seen it done, you will have no problems doing it yourself.
Bones
Post by: bigdave on December 17, 2008, 11:22:47 AM
Stay safe and warm. Merry Christmas!
Dave
Post by: bearbait on December 17, 2008, 04:58:03 PM
I have ten 9volt 2 wire connectors for us, the glass scraps we need, and 2 feet of sticky back velcro for the 9 volt batterys. Will get some 1/4" eyebolts within the next couple of days.
Looking forward to it.......
Bearbait
Post by: bigdave on December 17, 2008, 05:13:10 PM
I was also thinking a little later on. The weather may prevent for a few weeks anyway. Thanks for gathering some of the stuff. I have some aluminum angle to donate to the cause as well. Sorry to hear of your unemployment. I feel there will be a lot of that goin' around. You lookin' for work or is this a seasonal thing? Sorry if that is too personal, just offering to keep my eyes peeled for something if your lookin'.
Dave
Post by: Ridgeratt on December 17, 2008, 11:57:21 PM
Post by: albinodeerguy on December 18, 2008, 02:37:42 AM
Man I'm impressed! Great pictures and you built it yourself. Sure beats the price tag of a factory model. That would be a great Father/son winter project! Maybe you should change your user name to "BRAINS" ! Thanks!
Post by: BaseballStud20 on December 18, 2008, 10:41:45 AM
Post by: Machias on December 18, 2008, 11:00:59 AM
Post by: bigdave on December 18, 2008, 12:56:25 PM
List of attendees
Bones
Bigdave
Ridgeratt
Grizzly95
Bearbait
Gramps
Machias
Baseballstud20
Well, about two foot of snow in Spokane. I don't think this event will happen until after the New Year at least. BUT DON"T GIVE UP HOPE!! IT WILL HAPPEN! Get your stuff ordered or if not I think there will be at least a couple of us ready to build and you are welcome to come observe and hang out and eat some chili.
Can't wait to meet you guys...until then drive safe or not at all and watch out for the other guy.
Dave
Post by: olsy on December 19, 2008, 07:57:46 AM
Post by: bigdave on December 19, 2008, 11:03:30 AM
List of attendees
Bones
Bigdave
Ridgeratt
Grizzly95
Bearbait
Gramps
Machias
Baseballstud20
Olsy
Post by: Bones on December 19, 2008, 10:34:30 PM
Then the next step is to spray the case with primer. After the primer dries, then paint the case with craft paints. That takes about ten minutes, and then you spray the case with Krylon Matte finish sealer. I use craft paints that I get at Wal-Mart. A two ounce bottle is fifty cents. I use several shades of brown, tan, beige, black and gray. Wal-Mart also has the Krylon and the Bondoglass. I will bring the Bondo, paint and the PVC fittings, lenses and the aluminum angles for all who plan to attend and have a camera there that day. This will speed things up. But I will show you how to make the lenses, cut and sand the PVC fitting and cut and drill the aluminum angle.
The Pelican case is crush proof, leak proof and submersible, but after drilling all these holes and glueing on the lenses, the case has to be leak tested. Make sure you have already removed the foam liner from the lid before that day. Put the case n the freezer open for two hours, and then peel out the liner. The liner will still have the adhesive on it. Don't let that adhesive get dirty so you can reinstall it later. Don't bring the liner to Dave's place. Install it after you get back home. I will show how that is done with Dave's camera.
You don't need to buy a bunch of stuff for this. I will be bringing all the tools needed and lots of parts
Bones
Post by: bearbait on December 20, 2008, 08:23:09 AM
Bearbait
Post by: bigdave on December 20, 2008, 08:32:13 AM
Post by: Grizzly95 on December 22, 2008, 08:51:25 AM
Post by: scudmaster on December 23, 2008, 10:05:33 AM
You have me hooked.javascript:void(0); I have ordered a w80 already. Unfortunately I live on the west side and can't make the build party, so I will have to go it alone.
I do have a few technical questions. Most of your photos have been over bait. Is the W80 good for a passing trail cam. Do you know what the approximate time for power up to shutter activation is? Have you build any with the IR flash filter? I can wait to start building! Thanks again for the post. It is awesome of you to share the knowledge so freely.
Scud
Post by: bigdave on December 24, 2008, 01:04:23 PM
I received my camera and battery and charger in the mail yesterday! I put the battery on the charger for a few hours and what do you know....it all worked perfectly.
I'm ready to order my Yeticam stuff as sson as I get some cash. We still haven't set a date, but we are all so buried in snow it may be awhile yet.
Merry Christmas!
Post by: Bones on December 24, 2008, 10:50:48 PM
Merry Christmas, look forward to meeting everyone.
Bones
Post by: Grizzly95 on December 24, 2008, 10:58:13 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on December 24, 2008, 11:42:48 PM
Quote
Well I am bidding on a camera on ebay its a W55S sonycybershot
It is mine now, just got to get it shipped.
Post by: Bones on December 25, 2008, 10:05:08 AM
Griz, The W55 is a nice camera, but it is a little different from the newer models. It is also a little harder to take apart. There is a modification PDF file posted on the Yeti site, but I posted better info on this camera about a year ago on another homebrew site. Send me an e-mail before you take the camera apart, and I will send you a link to better info on this camera. I also solder the wires in different locations and I have a better way to get them out of the camera. I am the only one that mounts the camera in the lid of the case. I like being able to change the battery and memory and check my pictures in the field without removing the camera from the case. If you plan to mount the camera in the lid, it needs to be wired the way I do it. The battery memoru door is on the bottom of the W55, so the aluminum angle is different. I like the door on the bottom of the camera. The new W300's are that way, and I can't wait until they come down in price next year.
You can run a Python locking cable around the tree and through the eyebolts to lock the camera to the tree. This prevents the case being opened and the camera being stolen unless the thief comes back with a hacksaw or bolt cutters.
Bones
Post by: Grizzly95 on December 25, 2008, 10:05:33 PM
Post by: BaseballStud20 on December 31, 2008, 08:22:46 PM
Post by: bigdave on December 31, 2008, 10:33:20 PM
Post by: Bones on December 31, 2008, 11:42:13 PM
Bones
Post by: bow4elk on December 31, 2008, 11:48:15 PM
I can't make the meeting but I'm going to give it a go with your Pixcontroller link and your instructions. Looks pretty easy. I have two homebrews but I didn't build either of them. From here on out - I will. Thanks for the kick in the pants. I've been wanting to dive into this for over a year.
Would love to see build pics for the W80 if you have any to post or PM me.
Thanks for all your help!!
Post by: Ridgeratt on January 01, 2009, 05:58:38 AM
Post by: Bones on January 01, 2009, 09:59:55 AM
4- 6x32 screws and nuts 1 1/4 inch long, and 4 pieces of plastic tubing 7/8 inch long. This costs less then one dollar and can be purchased locally. I will give you my e-mail in a PM later. We can discuss your build.
Bones
Post by: bow4elk on January 01, 2009, 10:04:07 AM
Post by: gkowen on January 01, 2009, 06:42:13 PM
Post by: bigdave on January 01, 2009, 11:20:01 PM
I hear ya with the snow. It is warming up here temporarily so hopefully some will melt. But snow is still forecast later next week. Will probably crust up the snow, not good.
Hope you all had a great holiday and here's to a great new year.
Dave
Post by: bow4elk on January 02, 2009, 09:13:53 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 02, 2009, 09:17:29 PM
Post by: bow4elk on January 02, 2009, 09:36:22 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 02, 2009, 09:47:44 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 02, 2009, 10:50:50 PM
Post by: gkowen on January 03, 2009, 08:05:45 AM
Post by: bigdave on January 03, 2009, 01:40:17 PM
Post by: bow4elk on January 03, 2009, 01:59:47 PM
Post by: gkowen on January 03, 2009, 02:51:15 PM
Post by: bigdave on January 03, 2009, 06:55:43 PM
Post by: bow4elk on January 03, 2009, 07:32:11 PM
Post by: Bones on January 03, 2009, 09:25:11 PM
I met Gramps today, and I showed him a W200 and the Yeti parts that I just received last week. He has his stuff on order also. He and I are planning on doing some predator hunting and setting trail cams together. I am starting my W200 and I will post pics as it goes along.
Bones
Post by: Machias on January 03, 2009, 10:03:58 PM
Post by: Bones on January 05, 2009, 08:54:16 AM
More later, Bob
Post by: gkowen on January 05, 2009, 01:04:37 PM
Ok so that took 1 hour and 11 minutes but I work real carefully. How can I test the camera at this point? Does the yeticam controller turn the camera on too? I suspect that if I ground the shutter wire the camera will take a photo?
The testing failed. Darn! Touching the red and blue wires together turns the camera on, then touching again turns it off. So that works right. But touching the white to the blue doesn't take a picture. Touching the white to the red turns the camera off. I suspect the white wire is on a ground point and not the switch contact.
Should be an easy fix.
I had the white wire on the wrong point. It was on the half-press (focus) point. I can now turn my camera on with the wires and take a pic. It only took 1 hour and 45 minutes. I think while I am waiting on the yeticam parts I will build a wireless remote and set the camera up near the bird feeder.
Post by: bigdave on January 05, 2009, 06:40:23 PM
Three cheers for having the guts to just dig right in there!!
Bones,
Is the yeticam guy a washington businessman? Thanks for the update and contacting him. I was telling my family about this project over the holidays and they all want one to put in there driveway as sort of a security camera. Not a bad idea. My brothers in law may come and hang out with us to learn about it too.
Hope you all are ready for the big meltdown. 40 degrees is forcast up here for a couple of days this week. Should be a mess. 8)
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 05, 2009, 07:42:59 PM
Post by: gramps on January 05, 2009, 08:36:00 PM
Can't wait...I have been thinking about the security camera also. Do you know if the infra-red flash is visable to the human eye? I think the parts are available to build one with the IR flash, but not sure yet. I am not gonna mess with it for animals, just the security thing.
Post by: Bones on January 05, 2009, 10:06:10 PM
Everyone that has an order in with Yeti will be receiving it Priority mail in 2 to 3 days. It is time to set a date. I can't come this week-end but any Saturday or Sunday after that. I hope to get with Gramps later this week to show him how to hack the camera, and how to drill and set up the 1040 case. That way, he can help out when we get to Spokane.
Fred, I have been talking to you about predator calling and bear hunting for ten years on the internet. I am looking forward to meeting you, and that goes for everyone else.
Bones
Post by: Machias on January 05, 2009, 10:14:28 PM
Post by: BaseballStud20 on January 05, 2009, 10:21:48 PM
Post by: bigdave on January 06, 2009, 10:12:36 AM
17th or 24th? You pick. ;)
Post by: bearbait on January 06, 2009, 06:08:56 PM
Post by: Bones on January 06, 2009, 07:34:22 PM
Post by: gkowen on January 06, 2009, 07:54:13 PM
Post by: Bones on January 07, 2009, 12:22:15 AM
Sony makes an excellent camera, and these cameras have a wide range of features and settings. The factory built trail cameras use what we home brewers call "shrink wrap cameras". Those cameras use a few basic camera components and they are not good quality components, and they are limited in features and settings. I will try to get this information posted on here soon.
Bones
Post by: Bones on January 07, 2009, 01:50:51 AM
Bones
Post by: Bones on January 07, 2009, 02:51:24 AM
If you place the selector on the P setting, you can leave all other settings on auto and manually set the ISO to any of the available settings. But as you raise the ISO level, the night pictures become grainy, and the day pictures are washed out. You can't even set the ISO to 800 on the P setting because this hurts the quality of your day pictures. There is no way to use the bright flash on these cameras when the camera is used in a trailcam. So I ran my cameras on auto for a year. I decided that I needed to build external slave flashes for the cameras since I could not utilize the brighter flash ranges of these cameras.
I bought two Vivatar 2800 flash units on ebay. I planned on ordering two slave flash control boards from bigfoot outdoors.com, and also two 1020 Pelican cases to put these external slave flash units in. But in October, I learned how to use these cameras. The camera has the amazing ability to take sharp high quality pictures in low light conditions with very little flash. I now use ISO 100, 200 and sometimes 400 depending on the distance I expect the animals to be from my camera. These cameras come with a CD that has a manual for the camera and also photo editing software. This software is called Picture Motion Browser. This software is designed for these cameras, and it allows you to add the flash to your pictures on your computer. I knew this all along, but if you add flash to the higher ISO pictures it destroys them. You never want to use an ISO setting above 400, and 100 or 200 are the best choices. I will post more on this later, and I will also post examples of pictures before and after the flash is added. Sometimes, you don't get this CD with cameras you buy on ebay. I have several of these CD's, and I can send one to anyone that needs it. After you install it on your computer, you can send it to someone else that needs it. You really need this CD for editing your night pictures.
Bones
Post by: gkowen on January 07, 2009, 07:21:55 AM
Post by: Bones on January 07, 2009, 07:47:51 AM
Bones
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 07, 2009, 09:13:40 AM
Post by: Bones on January 07, 2009, 09:27:29 AM
DO NOT let your wives play with these cameras or you could lose them. They take great pictures, and they are probably better than most family cameras.
Bones
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 07, 2009, 09:56:49 AM
Post by: bigdave on January 07, 2009, 09:59:50 AM
Date is set......Saturday, Jan. 24th
Time is still to be determined....let us know Bones
Place.......Bigdave's home....1806 S Royal, Spokane 99224
What to bring: Camera stuff, a chair if you have one
Anyone have anything else to add?
If you need directions let me know.
Lunch/or Dinner will be provided by Bigdave and any other spokane guys who want to contribute. Main menu item is chili. Add to it what you will.
Current List of expected attendees:
Bones
Bigdave
Ridgeratt
Grizzly95
Bearbait
Gramps
Machias
Baseballstud20
Olsy
If I missed anyone, it was not on purpose, let me know and I will add you! :)
Post by: Machias on January 07, 2009, 10:18:08 AM
I will have to leave NLT 4pm, My mule club is having our annual banquet in Reardon and it starts at 5pm. I am really looking forward to this.
Looking at the map, damn Dave you only live about 9 miles from me. I live just outside of Four Lakes!
Post by: bigdave on January 07, 2009, 10:22:25 AM
Post by: BaseballStud20 on January 07, 2009, 04:26:37 PM
Post by: Bones on January 07, 2009, 04:48:26 PM
I hope we can be there as early as possible.
Bones
Post by: Bones on January 07, 2009, 04:54:10 PM
Bones
Post by: bow4elk on January 07, 2009, 08:15:24 PM
Wish I could make it! Should be a great time.
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 07, 2009, 08:26:32 PM
Post by: gramps on January 07, 2009, 08:31:28 PM
Post by: bow4elk on January 07, 2009, 08:32:12 PM
Post by: gramps on January 07, 2009, 08:42:43 PM
Post by: Bones on January 07, 2009, 10:08:00 PM
Everyone will be taking their own camera apart and reassembling it. You will need screwdrivers and a container to put your parts in. I use a small empty plastic margarine spread tub, and I line it with a coffee filter. As you take the camera apart, put the parts in the tub until you are ready to put it back together. One of you told me you have a W55. That camera is a little harder to take apart, and I suggest you wait until the get together before attempting to do this. I will bring a spare W55 shutter assembly that is already wired, so the hard part will already be done. I also will be bringing a W80 shutter assembly that is already wired, so one of you with a W80 can put your camera right back together.
Gramps will show you how to drill the case and put it together, and how to do the Bondo 3D camo and paint. Everyone should leave with the knowlege and confidence to do this own your own.
I think you will be surprised how easy it is.
The screwdrivers you need cost $2.95 at hardware stores and lumberyards.
Lumbermen's or Pro Build have them at the counter. They look like a small black pen that clips in your shirt pocket. This has two phillips and two flat screwdrivers. You use the small phillips to remove the screws and the small flat to pry the camera case apart.
Bones
Post by: gkowen on January 08, 2009, 03:13:44 PM
Post by: Bones on January 08, 2009, 07:23:16 PM
Bones
Post by: bow4elk on January 08, 2009, 10:23:09 PM
What kind of glue are you using? I noticed you mention "goop" but I'm assuming you are using that word to describe the application, not the glue itself. I've got a lot of different glues, sealants, adhesives, cauking, etc. Just curious if there's any particular glue/sealing method that is proven already.
I have all my stuff now. Yeticam order and my second camere arrived today. Just need the alum angle and eye bolts.
Thanks!
Post by: Bones on January 09, 2009, 12:41:12 AM
Bob
Post by: Bones on January 09, 2009, 12:43:43 AM
I used a larger 1060 case for over a year. I just switched to the 1040 case a couple of months ago, and I really like the small compact unit. But it is a tight fit to get everything in these.
Everyone should have ordered a control board with the front mounted controls. This board will be mounted in the main case. I have not done one like this, but I will be building 3 or 4 in the next week or so. Gkowen, I think it would be wise to wait a few days until I have figured this out.
If you want to start your camera, these are the things you must consider. The camera needs to be mounted as high in the lid as possible to leave as much room as possible below the camera. I like to leave just enough room above the camera to be able to touch the power button with my fingertip. It really is not necessary to be able to touch the power button with your fingertip, so I am sure I will move the camera as high as possible. If you want to view your pictures in the field while the camera is mounted in the case, you press the arrow button above the menu button. This powers the camera up with the last picture taken on the LCD screen. Then you press either the left or right arrow to go through your pictures.
After removing the rubber bladder from the main case, and the foam liner in the lid, clean the excess adhesive from the lid with a rag and a solvent like laquer thinner or acetone. Paint thinner might work, never tried it. After all the solvent is removed, use masking tape to cover the flat area inside the lid (top half of lid). Then lay the camera in the lid and push it up as high as it will go, Make sure the camera is laying flat. The female connector of the three wire servo has to be mounted on the left end of the camera because the battery/ memory door is on the other end. So, push the camera to the right to get it as close to the hinged side of the lid as possible.
Make sure the camera is square with the lid, and then trace around it. You probably will only be able to trace around the left side and the bottom, but that is enough.
Now you need to make a template for the camera. Cut a clear piece of plastic the exact size of the camera, With a Sharpie trace around the part of the camera lens that extends. Then trace around the flash and the AF illuminator that is 1/4" to the right of the flash. Now lay the template in the lid, and line it up with the lines you traced around the camera on the masking tape. Since this is different from the way I have been doing them, you need to see how much room there is above the flash and the side wall of the lid. Then you can determine the size hole you need to drill for the flash so you are not removing any of the side wall. You will need to drill a series of holes that you can connect with a dremmel, rasp or file to make an elongated hole so the flash and illuminateor can see out of the case. Use a small drill bit ( I use a 1/16") and drill a hole through the exact center of the extending lens. Determine how many holes you need for the flash hole and drill starter holes for them with the small bit. Now remove the template and masking tape Lay the lid on a block of wood, and start the point of 1 1/4" paddle bit into the starter hole for the extending lens. Make sure the bit is cutting square and drill through the lid. You drill from the inside of the lid. The bit for the flash will probably be a 3/8, 7/16 or 1/2" paddle bit. Drill those holes and clean them up with a file or dremmel tool.
Now make the aluminum angle. By the way, if you have a W55 don't bother reading all of this because that camera is totally different. This is only for the W80 and W90. Cut the aluminum angle 2 3/4" long. File or sand the edges and round the corners. With a pencil and a square, draw a center line on the top part of the angle that will be the camera shelf. For a W80 or W90, measure in and make a mark at 7/16" from the corner of the angle. Drill a 1/16" pilot hole at the center location. Then drill it out with a 1/4" bit. You need a 1/4" thumb screw and a nut and washer. I am not sure you need the washer, but you need to use up some of the threads on the screw so it will not bottom out in the camera tripod connector before it tightens. Drill two 1/4 inch holes in the part of the angle that mates with the case lid. Make sure these are down far enough to allow room for the nut. You need two 1/4" bolts 3/4" long.
Hold the camera square with the case and line up the camera lens centered in the 1 1/4" hole. Mark one of the 1/4" holes and drill it in the lid. Now install a bolt finger tight and make sure the camera is still square and the lens is centered. Then drill the other hole and install the other bolt.
I will finish this tomorrow night. All that is left is making the pvc extension and the lens for the flash and extension. And drilling for the PIR sensor and stand offs.
If you need drill bits, you can buy a set of 13 Black and Decker paddle bits at Wal-Mart for $10.27. This is every size from 1/4" to 1 1/2". They also have a set of drill bits for $5 that is every size from 1/16" to 1/4".
Bones
Post by: Seth on January 09, 2009, 07:24:20 AM
Post by: Bones on January 09, 2009, 08:24:44 AM
Bones
Post by: Ridgeratt on January 09, 2009, 11:01:09 AM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 09, 2009, 11:16:04 AM
Post by: gkowen on January 09, 2009, 12:46:35 PM
Ok so as I am piecing this all together I had the thought about placing the camera in the case upside down. This puts the holes for the flash below the lens pvc adapter so any dark corners will be on the top of the pic and also it puts the place where moisture might be a problem (flash and focus led) under the 'roof' of the lens PVC adapter. Can anyone think of a negative for this?
I have it all wired up outside the case and it works well. I am sure I will be building more of these cams. It is interesting to see the camera power on and take that first pic so fast. Thanks Bones for all the information and help.
Post by: Bones on January 09, 2009, 04:30:27 PM
Usually after viewing your pics, you pull the camera back to change the battery and memory. then you can turn it off. If you are not in a hurry, you can remove the camera from the case, sit down and watch the slideshow of your pics.
Every question I have answered in this post will be answered in detail when I finish the post I started last night.
Bones
Post by: gkowen on January 09, 2009, 07:33:47 PM
Post by: Bones on January 09, 2009, 08:04:27 PM
You should go to the Yeti website, and click on manuals in the header. Then click on the board 1.3 manual. Download this manual and save it to your computer.
When I took this picture, the board was in the 30 second warm-up mode. Toward the end of that 30 second period, the board powers the camera up, the flash capacitor is charged, then the board powers down the camera. You will see the camera lens extend and retract, then the LED will go off. Then the board is in the walk test mode and the LED will blink every time the board senses motion. You can make the walk test last as long as you want it to. When you want it to end, move off to the side. After 30 seconds of not sensing motion, the LED will blink five times. The board is now armed and ready to take pictures at the next detection of motion. You can see the LED in this picture.
Bones
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC043991600x451.jpg&hash=a82be110ca173f108a06f6c2a027c32b68e9f7ec)
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 09, 2009, 08:24:14 PM
Current List of expected attendees:
Bones
Bigdave
Ridgeratt
Grizzly95 +2
Bearbait
Gramps
Machias
Baseballstud20
Olsy
My neighbor has shown interest in the build, I am inviting him. Great guy. If you have any classic guns you would like him to check out let me know, he understands loads and pressures, very meticulious on fire arms. If there is time.
Post by: gkowen on January 09, 2009, 08:52:57 PM
Post by: Machias on January 09, 2009, 09:01:37 PM
Post by: bow4elk on January 10, 2009, 11:06:56 AM
Bones, have you ever used one of these lens snorkels? Seems like a great way to save time and get a "thinner" wall between the lens and the flash. Unfortunately, they are out of stock.
Post by: Bones on January 10, 2009, 03:16:03 PM
Bob
Post by: bigdave on January 10, 2009, 05:02:12 PM
Post by: Bones on January 10, 2009, 11:52:03 PM
In September, I built a W55 unit for a friend of mine in Wisconsin. I wanted to field test that camera for a couple of days before I sent to to him.
Grizzly 95 here are some pictures from a W55.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC000861600x450.jpg&hash=06f2905fb9f3a84ca41c80275f4101f9f815ebb0)
You can see in this picture, there is a very small shadow in the bottom right corner of the pic
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC00122600x450.jpg&hash=6b8606e4825d35d2b4a60c1ca3e7d47bd7cca078)
This shadow can be completely removed from the pics by fine tuning the case extension before you goop the lens in place. Since the camera is mounted in the lid of the case, you can manually take pictures through the extension to look at this shadow. The larger diameter barrel of the extending lens only comes out of the case about 1/4". You can thin down the inside top part of the fitting with a dremmel tool. Then you can lower the pvc fitting and this gets the flash higher above the fitting. But in the picture above, the shadow is no big deal to me. The editing software that comes on the CD with these cameras allows you to add the time and date stamp to your pictures if you care to do that. There are several different formats to choose from, the date only or the time and date, and you can even use military time. You can put the date stamp in any of the four corners of the picture, and you can choose from four colors, red, yellow, blue or white. That small shadow is a good place for the date
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC001222600x450.jpg&hash=50fb770709353ccbb12c61a885a6cff12d1cfce5)
Ater the bear finished off the apples that night, he decided to try and eat my friends camera
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC00134600x450.jpg&hash=e65ea66a678bf5d94c9846d428b92eb2bb61e6f5)
The bear chipped a small amount of the Bondo off of the extension, but the damage was cosmetic. The extension, lens and seal remained intact. The extensions made from the pipe thread protectors would not have survived this bears attack on the camera
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC09358600x450.jpg&hash=f9f9d6e2fb908684f2f115b90aa68847969a5fc6)
Post by: bow4elk on January 11, 2009, 09:12:23 AM
Post by: Ridgeratt on January 11, 2009, 10:11:07 AM
Post by: BaseballStud20 on January 11, 2009, 12:39:05 PM
Post by: Bones on January 11, 2009, 05:41:25 PM
Bones
Post by: BaseballStud20 on January 11, 2009, 07:17:19 PM
Post by: rackattack on January 11, 2009, 07:35:20 PM
Post by: Ridgeratt on January 11, 2009, 07:46:49 PM
Post by: Machias on January 11, 2009, 08:31:32 PM
Post by: Bones on January 11, 2009, 08:41:13 PM
Rackattack, You can run a locking Python cable through the eye bolts and around the tree
I get single strength glass scraps free at our local glass shop. That is what I use. The lens on my case extension is larger than the 1 1/4" lens for sale at yeti and other websites
The aluminum angle is about 1/16" thick. It comes in 5 or 6 foot lengths for about $6.00. I will have this already for those coming on the 24th.
Bones
Post by: Bones on January 11, 2009, 08:53:46 PM
Fred, That's funny! Maybe you can tell us some of your bear hunting stories while we build cameras. I remember one you told 8 or 9 tears ago. I think you were on a log and the bear was seven yards away. I remember it was funny but I don't remember the details.
Bones
Post by: Machias on January 11, 2009, 09:08:47 PM
Post by: BaseballStud20 on January 12, 2009, 03:07:16 PM
Post by: Bones on January 12, 2009, 06:04:38 PM
Bones
Post by: Craig on January 12, 2009, 08:32:13 PM
Sony W80 $55.01
Sony W90 $43.33
Batt and Charger ( will work tith both cameras ) $26.99
Total $125.33
I don't think thats to bad for two cameras. I wish I could make the trip over to the build party. I will need to try this by myself.
Anyone from Olympia going over?
Post by: gkowen on January 12, 2009, 08:47:47 PM
I am from Rochester and I just finished camoflauging my case. I need it to dry and then a bit of paint and my camera will be done. I might be able to help if you need help. Bones has helped me alot and I'll be glad to share what I know. I will take some photos of my camera tomorrow or the next day.
Post by: Bones on January 12, 2009, 08:53:17 PM
Bones
Post by: Craig on January 12, 2009, 09:03:15 PM
That would be great. I am trying to get all the parts together. The part I'm not sure about is the souldering part. I have no have never done tried it and don't want to screw it up.
I would love to see pictures when your done.
Post by: gkowen on January 12, 2009, 09:07:00 PM
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi266.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii258%2Fgkowen%2FIMG_0566.jpg&hash=9fc9930f0f63becfde34e172e60f56ba6b6d0f1e)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi266.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii258%2Fgkowen%2FIMG_0565.jpg&hash=60ce816fe1c0519a1282eb81402a6b7a36c76c13)
Post by: Bones on January 12, 2009, 10:50:31 PM
Bones
Post by: Bones on January 13, 2009, 07:24:37 AM
After the case is drilled for the lens and flash, position the PVC fitting over the lens opening, and place one of the flat areas at 12:00 O'clock. Mark the 12:00 O'clock with a sharpie. You need to sand the corners off of the fitting at 11:00 and 1:00. The top part of the fitting will be round. Lay the fitting on a scrap of glass, and mark it with a sharpie. What you want to do is cut a small half moon out of the bottom of the glass. After cutting the glass, check the fit. You want as small of a gap as possible. It is pretty easy to get a good fit. Mount the camera in the case, power it up and close the case. Measure how far the camera lens extends out of the case. Also measure how far out of the case the larger diameter of the telescoping lens comes out of the case. You want to cut the PVC fitting about 1/16" longer than the long measurement. Place the fitting back on the case. You can see where the end of the fitting will block the flash. You want to sand the fitting so it has a taper out toward the end from 10:00 to 2:00 O'clock. Don't sand the fitting too thin because you will be gooping the lens to the end of the fitting. The larger diameter barrel comes out of the case about 1/4". You can thin the top part of the fitting in about 3/8". Power the camera up and place the fitting on the case Slide it down until it contacts the lens, then raise it about 1/16". The lower you can get the fitting the better. After you like the way you have it, mark the spot. Now put goop on the case and the fitting. After a few minutes add more goop around the fitting. The flash lens is gooped to the outside of the lid. The lens needs to overlap the lid about 1/4" on all three sides. Mark the glass that needs to be cut away. Then put goop on the case and the part of the lens that overlaps the case. Also put goop on the edge of the half moon cut and the PVC fitting, Press the lens in place, and add goop to the three edges that mate with the case. The seal between the lens and fitting will be reinforced with Bondo later. Hold a piece of glass over the end of the fitting. Trace around it with a sharpie. Make a mark at 12:00 o'clock because the lens is not perfectly round. Cut away as much glass as possible with a glass cutter. Then use a small pair of wire cutters to nip away the remaining glass that needs to be removed. The glass cannot be above the fitting from 3:00 to 9:00 o'clock. It does not matter on the rest of the lens because it will be covered with Bondo. But when the bondo is added, you can only put a thin smooth coat over the top part of the lens. The rest of the case will be made to look like rough tree bark. The Yeti Board is 1 1/2" by 3 1/2" Make a template out of clear plastic. Drill the four 1/8" mounting holes in the template. Then mark the center of the motion sensor with a sharpie. The board will be mounted in the main case. Make sure the board is not upside down. The motion sensor will be on the bottom. Open the case and lay the template under the aluminum angle. Center the board, and make sure the thumbscrew will not hit the board. Drill a 1/16" pilot hole through the template to mark the center of the Fresnel lens opening. Now drill a 1" hole. After drilling this hole, lay the Yeti board in the main case at the approximate location. Close the case and look through the 1" hole and move the board until it is square with the case, and the motion sensor is centered in the 1" hole. Now open the case and mark the mounting hole locations. Now drill 4 1/8" holes I use nylon spacers or bushings I get at the lumberyard.(Lumbermens has them). They come on various lengths, and they are for 6x32 screws. Start off with a half inch and 4- 6x32 screws 1 1/4" long. Mount the board and tighten the screws. Close the case to get a measurement from the motion sensor to the inside of the lid. I stand a cotton swab on the sensor, and make a mark flush with the outside of the lid. The lid is 1/8" thick The focal length for the fresnel lense is 5/8". Now you can calculate the stand off length needed to obtain this. I will know that length soon. I cut a 1/4" ring from a 1" pvc coupling. I goop this to the outside of the lid to serve as a form for the Bondo. When you goop this ring, center it on the motion sensor, even if the 1" hole is not perfectly centered on the sensor. After the goop sets, you can clean up inside this ring with a Dremmel.
In the bottom left corner of the case you need to drill a 3/4" hole for the external power switch. There is barely room for this hole, and it has to be cleaned up with a round file to get the switch into the hole.
Liquid nails is often used by others on the Homebrew websites for the 3-D camo. I hate using that stuff. It is messy and it takes about 36 hours to set up so you can finish and paint the case. When using Bondo or Bondoglass, the entire project takes about an hour from start to finish. And it is set hard as a rock and ready to paint at the end of that hour.
Bones
There is a picture showing the solder connections on this link
http://www.pixcontroller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3266
Post by: gkowen on January 13, 2009, 07:02:17 PM
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi266.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii258%2Fgkowen%2FIMG_0571.jpg&hash=54695f4cffee8a7df9c4ef88fa4e66b318155693)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi266.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii258%2Fgkowen%2FIMG_0580.jpg&hash=cb4e17e887a0100b46fb6721e82e839482fc1b0e)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi266.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii258%2Fgkowen%2FIMG_0583.jpg&hash=4a3ce2a1f93bb266e15756c05fd7f54ef1304c43)
Post by: bow4elk on January 13, 2009, 08:44:59 PM
Post by: gkowen on January 13, 2009, 08:49:17 PM
I am just in Rochester. My camera was a W80 too. I just painted the case and didn't do very well. It is mostly gray. If you run into trouble, I can try to help.
Greg
Post by: Bones on January 13, 2009, 08:51:04 PM
Bones
Post by: bow4elk on January 13, 2009, 08:57:16 PM
Post by: bigdave on January 13, 2009, 09:44:20 PM
Your camera is lookin great!
Dave
Post by: javman on January 13, 2009, 11:12:39 PM
Post by: gkowen on January 14, 2009, 09:34:21 AM
Me at 15 feet or so.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi266.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii258%2Fgkowen%2FDSC00168.jpg&hash=c56d80cca2166ac0803772c4da0ab8559331e9c2)
My dog Rascal and I at 20 feet or so.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi266.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii258%2Fgkowen%2FDSC00184.jpg&hash=e2d3de4d4ed19fe1045db42c6e4fc5a251795ef4)
Post by: bow4elk on January 14, 2009, 02:18:13 PM
Post by: Bones on January 14, 2009, 03:00:42 PM
Post by: whacker1 on January 14, 2009, 04:19:31 PM
Regards,
Neil
Post by: whacker1 on January 14, 2009, 04:54:32 PM
How long do the batteries last?
Neil
Post by: Bones on January 14, 2009, 05:29:20 PM
The external power switch turns the 9 volt power on or off. The control board turns the camera on or off.
Gramps and I worked on his camera this morning, and we will not be able to finish it until Friday morning. I will post pictures then. His camera will go to the field Satuday
The control board can also be controlled by a switched 4-AA battery holder. Those battery holders do not work for long. They are too cheap. Most of us don't use them any more. That is why we added the external power switch. You can approach the camera from the side and turn it off without getting your picture taken. With the external switch, there is no need for a switched battery holder,
Bones
Post by: whacker1 on January 14, 2009, 05:37:58 PM
Neil
Post by: Bones on January 14, 2009, 09:03:24 PM
Bones
Post by: gkowen on January 14, 2009, 09:26:47 PM
Checked the manual and yes it is 2 flashes. So I need to build a new flash detector or give up for now. I think 20 feet on the flash is pretty good. Its about as far as I need. In fact, I might use ISO mode mostly and not use the flash.
Post by: Bones on January 14, 2009, 10:00:22 PM
Bones
Post by: Bones on January 14, 2009, 10:01:20 PM
You can also use the camera out of the trailcam case. Here is a picture I took last March with my W90 while shed hunting. In the first picture it is very hard to see the bull elk about 800 yards away/ He is left and above the center of the picture.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC08183800x600.jpg&hash=105dd71848abd5efa394362eae868fa2051f76aa)
Here is the same bull. I got this shot with me W90 by holding it up to my spotting scope. The scope is a Burris 20x60x80mm.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC08194800x600.jpg&hash=66cf0098454aa2231c88b6181ca970ca25961d39)
This is the same picture after it was cropped. Not bad for a trailcam camera. You will love these hi-rez trailcam pics.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC081942800x684.jpg&hash=5ffa0dc05daa7ef71049df3f32d6d911100ea95f)
Post by: Craig on January 14, 2009, 11:01:13 PM
Has anyone else tried to email Yeticam and take a longtime to get a response?
Post by: Bones on January 14, 2009, 11:51:36 PM
Bones
Post by: gkowen on January 15, 2009, 01:25:17 AM
Post by: bigdave on January 15, 2009, 08:31:59 AM
Bones
Bigdave+2
Ridgeratt
Grizzly95 +2
Bearbait
Gramps
Machias
Baseballstud20
Olsy
Whacker1
Which one of you have been outbidding me on ebay!!!!!???? :bash: :chuckle:
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 15, 2009, 08:41:25 AM
Post by: Craig on January 15, 2009, 10:16:47 AM
Post by: gkowen on January 15, 2009, 01:13:37 PM
Post by: bow4elk on January 15, 2009, 01:17:04 PM
Post by: gkowen on January 15, 2009, 02:08:47 PM
Post by: yetinme on January 15, 2009, 06:26:06 PM
Please let me know if someone hasn't gotten their parts yet. I can still ship some tomorrow and Saturday that should make it there.
Craig, sorry for the slowness, your message sat in my outbox since yesterday until I rebooted today. Not sure what is up with outlook but working now I think.
You will notice that we are in the middle of a design change on the board. Well sort of anyway. Some of the boards had the type of connector that Bob used. We now have some with a green connector with screws. They both work very well but I got tired of making the 4 wire connector so I changed the connector. Hope I didn't throw anyone for a loop.
Thanks a ton Bob for the classes!
Mark
Post by: Bones on January 15, 2009, 07:24:42 PM
bow4elk, There is no problem with the flash being so close to the camera lens, and it is very easy to seal this. I have never had a leak, and there are no shadow problems. We are going to finish Gramps camera in the morning, so, I will post some pictures tomorrow night. We worked on his camera about three hours Wednesday morning. Tomorrow morning, we will finish it, and it will have the camo and paint finished also. The entire project will be about six hours. I could have done it a little faster, but I was teaching Gramps how to do it.
Bones
Post by: Machias on January 15, 2009, 07:46:02 PM
Woo Hoo! I am in.
Please let me know if someone hasn't gotten their parts yet. I can still ship some tomorrow and Saturday that should make it there.
Craig, sorry for the slowness, your message sat in my outbox since yesterday until I rebooted today. Not sure what is up with outlook but working now I think.
You will notice that we are in the middle of a design change on the board. Well sort of anyway. Some of the boards had the type of connector that Bob used. We now have some with a green connector with screws. They both work very well but I got tired of making the 4 wire connector so I changed the connector. Hope I didn't throw anyone for a loop.
Thanks a ton Bob for the classes!
Mark
Spent everything I had last week on my truck so I had to wait. I just order my stuff so that would be AWESOME if it makes it here by the workshop day. :):) Thanks
Post by: bow4elk on January 15, 2009, 08:00:06 PM
Post by: bigdave on January 15, 2009, 08:26:00 PM
Mark, welcome to the board. I think we might send you some busyness, I mean business! :)
Post by: Bones on January 15, 2009, 10:15:55 PM
All anyone needs to bring besides the camera and the order from Yeti is "
2- i/4"x 3/4" bolts and nuts
1- 1/4" x 1/2" thumb screw with one nut
4- 6x32 screws 1 1/4" long
I will have bondo, paint, tools, soldering iron, drill bits, tools.
Post by: bow4elk on January 15, 2009, 10:27:20 PM
Post by: Bones on January 15, 2009, 10:39:14 PM
Bones
Post by: bow4elk on January 15, 2009, 11:01:31 PM
Post by: Bones on January 15, 2009, 11:31:52 PM
Next, you bolt the angle in the lid and install the camera. Power up the camera to check the fit. Now you are ready to glue the case extension in place. After the glue sets up in a few minutes, you glue the lenses in place. You will drill 2 1/4" holes for the eyebolts, and a 3/4" hole for the external switch. After the lens are installed, it is time for the first coat of BondoGlass. With the template, and having the angles, lens and PVC fittings already made, this will go pretty fast.. All you should have to do when you get home, is finish the painting and sealing on the case.
Bones
Post by: Ridgeratt on January 16, 2009, 01:30:10 AM
Post by: Bones on January 16, 2009, 04:08:05 AM
I will post pics of that camera tonight. It is the nicest camera I have built.
The single strength glass in plenty, and ALL of the goop seals are reinforced by BondoGlass. None of the goop is exposed to the weather. Bondo Glass is a combination of Bondo and fiberglass. This stuff is used to patch boats. These cameras do not leak, and there are no shadows. The flash lens is on the outside of the case. The BondoGlass covers all the edges and the seam between the extension and the glass.
Bones
Post by: gramps on January 16, 2009, 06:18:50 AM
Post by: bigdave on January 16, 2009, 09:08:28 AM
I just wanted to condense some of the info from this thread concerning what we need to have for the Cam building day. I thought I would post it here so others might benefit. It is scheduled for 8:00am, Saturday, Jan. 24th at my home. I will PM all guys on the list with my address and directions this weekend. By the way, I'm looking forward to learning your names!!
Currently on the list for attendance:
Bones
Bigdave+2
Ridgeratt
Grizzly95 +2
Bearbait
Gramps
Machias
Baseballstud20
Olsy
Whacker1
What you need if you want to build: (Feel free to come just to learn even if you don't have all the stuff)
I quote Bones here:
All anyone needs to bring besides the camera and the order from Yeti is "
2- i/4"x 3/4" bolts and nuts
1- 1/4" x 1/2" thumb screw with one nut
4- 6x32 screws 1 1/4" long
I will have bondo, paint, tools, soldering iron, drill bits, tools.
Regarding the Pelican case, black, #1040....Ridgeratt has some extras you might PM him
Velcro strap for securing Battery........Bearbait??
Machias will bring tables
Grizzly95 has some chairs, you might bring one if you have one
Ridgeratt has supplied us with some MOOSE for the chili!!!
Bearbait, did you say you had some 2wire connectors from radio shack to share?
Let me know if I missed you on the list or if I missed a component or if I missed anything else.
Happy building west-side guys!!
Post by: Machias on January 16, 2009, 09:11:18 AM
If you need anything else, please let me know.
Bones and Gramps, please drive safe fellas!
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 16, 2009, 09:12:08 AM
Quote
It is scheduled for 8:00am
No beauty sleep that weekend :chuckle:
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 16, 2009, 09:20:13 AM
Post by: bigdave on January 16, 2009, 10:08:32 AM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 16, 2009, 10:49:10 AM
Post by: whacker1 on January 16, 2009, 11:11:39 AM
Do we need to bring anything to go along with the Chili? Possibly beer? I would be happy to bring a box or two of beer, but I didn't want to step anyone's toes either.
Regards,
Neil
Post by: Ridgeratt on January 16, 2009, 11:23:17 AM
Post by: javman on January 16, 2009, 11:59:43 AM
Post by: Seth on January 16, 2009, 12:19:37 PM
Post by: YellowDog on January 16, 2009, 12:31:22 PM
Post by: bigdave on January 16, 2009, 12:36:24 PM
I appreciate your beer offer. The build is going to be held in my Father-in-laws shop right next door to my home. He is kind enough to let me use it and his tools pretty much at my request. While I don't consider myself a "crazy religious zealot" about alchoholic beverages, I would rather not have them at the cam build just in order to keep peace in the family.
Thanks
Post by: javman on January 16, 2009, 12:43:23 PM
Post by: Bones on January 16, 2009, 02:48:49 PM
Bones
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC097731480x521.jpg&hash=342b7bf44c3cfdf75351782fc9f078aff0e1b5df)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC097761480x545.jpg&hash=d0f7aed349b11635403e0edadbfc9ca7bc609f18)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC097781480x512.jpg&hash=4377cf11ad09aba9e9314dad640d9a0a65d40a75)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC097801480x658.jpg&hash=725eca5df79d19f5734c74aa3d717a969729b129)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC097811480x530.jpg&hash=d9b4d1ad10cdd33383e68fe9188a498abf2393b0)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC097831480x562.jpg&hash=a8117602f748c7acde5826cf2887dfddac0c666a)
Post by: jbaker509 on January 16, 2009, 03:54:15 PM
Post by: Craig on January 16, 2009, 03:56:36 PM
One more question. How do you seal the hole with the motion sensor? in the picture it looks like there is a PVC pipe in one and then it's gone. It is just camoed up or did you take it out? The Fresnel Lens is inside the case so do you just put a lot of goop around the edges of the lens to get a waterproof seal or do you put glass over it?
Post by: bigdave on January 16, 2009, 06:33:01 PM
Currently on the list for attendance:
Bones
Bigdave+2
Ridgeratt
Grizzly95 +2
Bearbait
Gramps
Machias
Baseballstud20
Olsy
Whacker1
jbaker509
Gramps your camera looks awesome!!
Post by: bearbait on January 16, 2009, 06:59:20 PM
I received my Yeti stuff yesterday, but still do not have a camera yet :P (always get outbid on E-bay), trying for a w90 or w200.
I will bring, lots of glass (for all who want to try cutting their own lenses), 10 ea. 9v power connectors, 20 ea. 6-32 x 1 1/4 bolts, 24" sticky back velcro, 6 ea. 1/4" eye bolts, 4 ea. 1/4" thumb screws, as of right now that I will bring in case it is needed.
Really looking forward to this!!!!!!!!
Thanks guys.....
Bearbait
Post by: Machias on January 16, 2009, 08:56:03 PM
Post by: bigdave on January 16, 2009, 09:23:59 PM
I'll let you have one of my w80 if you want it instead of nothing. Machias must be the one outbidding everyone cause it sure isn't me! :)
Jbaker509,
I added you to the list. Look forward to meeting you.
My biggest concern with all this is the soldering......where to connect stuff and how, without damaging it. I haven't gotten into electronics much. I will be fun to learn a little.
Post by: jbaker509 on January 17, 2009, 07:44:42 AM
Post by: gramps on January 17, 2009, 08:53:56 AM
Post by: bearbait on January 17, 2009, 09:51:33 AM
Thanks for the inside shot. It looks doable! What size mounting bolts for the camera mount angle thingie? Also, does Radio Shack have the waterproof on/off switch? See you next week!
Machias:
Yah, we've corresponded before (i'm the guy who worked at Survival School) looking forward to actually meeting you next Sat.
Bigdave:
May have to take you up on your offer of a w80 (really want the extra MPs if possible). PM me the details and your GPS coordinates if you have them.
Bearbait
Post by: Seth on January 17, 2009, 10:10:22 AM
Post by: gramps on January 17, 2009, 10:44:31 AM
Seth..In order to get the proper distance from the motion sensor and the fresnel lens(5/8"), we used a total of 7/8". A 6-32 nut on the bolt on the inside of the case and then a 1/2 and 1/4" plastic spacer under the board.
HTH
Post by: Seth on January 17, 2009, 11:06:21 AM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 17, 2009, 11:37:09 AM
Post by: Bones on January 17, 2009, 11:48:01 AM
The templates that Gramps made will speed this up considerably. I think we could make paper copies that could be mailed in an envelope. Anyone on the west side that can't make the trip can have one of these. Just PM your address to me.
I will post a detailed explanation on how to make the PVC case extension, cut the lenses, and how to use the template. I will post this later tonight. Gramps also made a template for drilling the angle.
I will post macro pics of the shutter board and how to make the solder connections. I soldered two of the wires on Gramp's shutter board, and then I let him make the other connection. It took almost 20 seconds. The solder part is nothing to worry about, trust me.
Bones
Post by: Bones on January 17, 2009, 11:54:49 AM
I have said this at least a thousand times, Building these cameras is so easy, a cave man could do it,
Bones
Post by: gramps on January 17, 2009, 01:13:47 PM
Bones showed me that the foam liner that is in the lid can be removed and saved by putting it in the freezer for a couple-three hours and then peel it out. You will cut portions of it to put back in the lid and back. Clean the glue residue from the lid so that sawdust does not stick to everything. He also reuses the liner/seal that is in the 'back' of the case by triming so as to save and preserve the seal portion and reinstalling after the board and battery are in. A few daps of glue around the groove that the seal sits in will do, close the case for a bit and the seal will stay put.
HTH
Post by: Bones on January 17, 2009, 03:12:46 PM
This fitting needs to be cut down to 1/2". Then mark the center location on one of the six flat sides of the hex flange. The two corners to the left and right need to be removed. Sand the fitting until the top is round. Then sand the fitting to give a small taper out to the end. Try not to thin down the part of the fitting that mates with the case lid, and don't get too thin out on the end The fitting can be thinned down to about half thickness. Then, the top inside of the fitting can be thinned down a bit with a dremel but this is not necessary if you don't have a dremel.
Flash Lens
For this, start out with a small scrap of glass approximately 1 1/2" by 2 1/2". This lens will sit on the PVC fitting. Sit the fitting on the glass so it overlaps the bottom long side of the glass about a half inch. Trace this arc with a Sharpie and mark the glass and fitting at the 12 0'clock location. Then with a glass cutter, carefully score this line. Then snap out the small piece of glass with a pair of pliers. Check your fit. This glass will be cut down more later.
Camera lens
Place a small scrap of glass over the end of the fitting and trace the outline of the fitting. Cut away as much glass as possible with a glass cutter, and nip nip away the rest with a pair of dikes
Passive Infrared Sensor (PIR) opening
The hex flange on the case extension is 1/4" think. This flange is buried in BondoGlass. Cut a 1/4" PVC ring from a 1" PVC coupling. This is gooped around the 1" hole for the PIR sensor. This serves as a form for the Bondo to give a nice clean opening when the Bondo is applied. It also recesses the PIR lens from the weather and BEARS.
The pir (fresnel lens) is glued to the inside of the lid with contact cement. The edges of the lense are then gooped. The rough grooved side must face the sensor on the board.
3D Camo (BondoGlass)
A quart can oft this is $11.95 at Wal-Mart. It will do 7 or 8 1040 Pelican cases. After you have the PVC fitting, PVC ring and your lenses in place. you need to cut two pieces of sticky back foam pad. Trace around one piece with a quarter and cut it out with a pair of scissors. You want to stick this to the lens. It is not necessarily in the center of the lens, but centered on where the camera lens is when it is extended. Use the excess piece you cut off of the hex pvc fitting and trace the arc on another piece. This will be placed on the flash lens Cut this the shape of the flash opening in the case. When you stick it to the glass, leave about 1/16 inch between the pad and the PVC fitting. The seam between the pvc and the glass was gooped when the lens was installed. Mix some of the Bondo. Trowel a layer over the case. With this first coat, you want to bury the hex flange, and the 1/4" mounting bolt heads for the angle, and bring it up flush with the PVC ring around the PIR. Also trowel it over the flash lens and into the seam between the pad and the pvc fitting. I feather it out to the corner edge of the case. Make sure you trowel it off of the foam pad so it is easier to remove after the case is painted and sealed. After this is set, you can add the Bondo to make the case look any way you want. I pick up a gob of the stuff and touch it an the top and drag it down the lid. I use a flat brown spray paint to paint the entire case after the texture is applied. Do not have the camera or electronics in the case while doing this mask off the PIR opening bofore sprying the case. Paint is with craft paints and then spray it with Krylon clear matte finish.
Bones
Post by: Bones on January 17, 2009, 03:13:56 PM
Red - power
Blue - Ground
White - shutter
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC085561.jpg&hash=5e0664abcad790d0a344df2f634179e712451ed7)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC085562.jpg&hash=c648ed7b5a9cdbc1b41330b6e8ad8a4c4628ff7f)
The yellow arrow points at the hole for the screw that holds the shutter assembly together. After the assembly is snapped back together. Install this screw to hold it together
Post by: Bones on January 17, 2009, 03:36:15 PM
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC00543480x425-1.jpg&hash=e2472c326ffde649391e8e6de5b541d31cb3068c)
Post by: bowhunter/taxidermest on January 17, 2009, 04:17:47 PM
Post by: Bones on January 17, 2009, 04:51:32 PM
The only cameras that I can help you with are those covered in this thread. I feel they have been thoroughly covered. What cameras do you have.
Bones
Post by: bowhunter/taxidermest on January 17, 2009, 04:56:33 PM
Post by: Bones on January 17, 2009, 08:50:20 PM
First of all, you don't want to solder the wires to the board that are connected to the three wire servo. The wires have to be routed out of the shutter assembly, and then out of the camera. The wires on the servo are not long enough, and you can't get the wires out of the camera with the servo connected. Radio Shack is the only place I know where you can buy 30 gauge wire. They carry it in three colors, red, blue and white, and it comes on 50 foot spools. This is enough wire for 70 or 80 cameras.
In the first picture, you can see two pads on the shutter board. The pad on the left is the power pad. This pad is under the power button on the shutter assembly, and when you push the power button, it shorts power to ground and turns the camera on. You need to solder the red wire to this pad, and there is only one location where you can do this. I drew a red line across the power pad that points to the solder location. You can see a light blue foil trace in the board. The pad is soldered to that trace. You are not soldering the red wire to the pad, but to a very small solder point at the base of the pad where it connects to the trace. You need to look at that solder, and then hold the tinned wire directly on top of it and apply the soldering iron for no more than 2 seconds. After you remove the iron, don't move the wire for a couple of seconds, and then wiggle and tug on the wire to see if you got a good connection. If the wire did not stick, re-tin the wire and try again.
The pad on the right is the shutter pad. In the picture, you can see two large foil traces connecting to the right side of the pad. The black line points to where the pad is soldered to the ground trace. This is where you solder the blue ground wire. The lavender line points to where the pad solders to the shutter trace. This is where the white shutter wire is soldered. When you push the shutter button on the camera, these two traces are shorted together causing the camera to take a picture. Again, you are not soldering to the pad, but to the solder at the base of the pad where it connects to the trace.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC085513.jpg&hash=68c1b108cd2e45dfde589aa9a1d608b7ecbd218f)
his picture shows two 30 gauge wires. The bottom one is tinned, and the top wire has a very small blob of excess solder stuck to it. The solder tries to stay on the tip of the iron, but you keep at it until you can get a small amount of excess solder to stick to the wire. Without this solder, the wire will not stick.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC085591.jpg&hash=7fff5c41c6ec46224381e8d49833d3e3ec1f5110)
After the wires are out of the camera you connect the red wire to the Yeti red wire. You connect the blue wire to the Yeti black wire. You connect the white wire to the Yeti green wire
Post by: Bones on January 18, 2009, 09:26:37 AM
I also have lots of spare parts for the W55 including a shutter assembly. I will already have a wired shutter assembly for your camera. The 55, 80, 90 and 200 are the 2007 models. By April 1st, the 2009 models will be at the retailers. Then the 2008 models will start appearing on ebay in large numbers. These are the 120,130,150,170 and 300. The 300 is the camera I am anxious to get my hands on. It is 13.6 mega pixels, and the battery and memory door is located on the bottom of the camera exactly where the 55 door is located. This 55 build will be a test run for the 300 to see if every thing will fit with the vertical board in the smaller case. If you have already ordered a board, the horizontal board will work fine.
Bones
Post by: YellowDog on January 18, 2009, 11:35:44 AM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 18, 2009, 12:29:46 PM
I am hoping to have a prototype for a new style lock box for the cams by then also, I will be open to any and all opinions on upgrades to the box. It may not be to scale but it will give the general idea. If anybody has any ideas in mind before then let me know and we can add and change plans or maybe have a second style.
I would also like to hear from the guy or gal that thinks they are the hardest on equipment for field trial, or I can just set one up in the crackhead part of town :chuckle:
Post by: olsy on January 18, 2009, 03:21:01 PM
Post by: Seth on January 18, 2009, 03:46:28 PM
Post by: Ridgeratt on January 18, 2009, 04:56:39 PM
Post by: javman on January 18, 2009, 06:56:35 PM
Post by: Machias on January 18, 2009, 07:33:15 PM
Post by: gkowen on January 18, 2009, 07:38:36 PM
Post by: billythekidrock on January 18, 2009, 07:39:37 PM
Dang Seth that looks good enough to eat!! :)
MMmmm.....Chocolate!
Post by: javman on January 18, 2009, 08:12:05 PM
Well I just tried a couple different settings and if I set picture quantity to 2, when it senses motion, it powers on the cam, waits about 10-12 seconds and takes ONE pic then shuts off. If I turn it on RapidPic, it powers on the cam, waits 10-12 seconds, then takes a pic after each motion. I'm thinking for the initial pic, it's sending the signal before the camera is fully powered on. That's what I get for using a W120 :'( I'll email Yeti and see what they have to say. Maybe I can buy a board with different timing.
Post by: Bones on January 18, 2009, 08:15:56 PM
If the camera does take a picture, reconnect the board. Turn dip switch 4 and 6 on. Wait a couple of minutes and power the board up and test it again.
Bones
Post by: Bones on January 18, 2009, 08:20:22 PM
Bones
Post by: gkowen on January 18, 2009, 08:34:05 PM
Post by: Bones on January 18, 2009, 09:27:57 PM
Seth, your camera looks great. I hope you post pictures of it when it is finished.
Bones
Post by: javman on January 18, 2009, 09:33:09 PM
Bones, which part of the board is the "chip" that controls the timing?
Post by: Bones on January 18, 2009, 10:30:36 PM
Bones
Post by: gkowen on January 19, 2009, 10:21:39 AM
I do have one other thought which is possible. When I wired my first camera the wire to take the picture was wired to the 'half-press' point on the shutter button. It caused strange actions. It is easily tested with a digital multimeter but how can we test this without one? I will see if I can figure out an easy test. I am just thinking of possibilities here.
Can you turn the flash off and is it still slow? Maybe the flash is taking time to charge?
If it is any help, I am running my W80 board with all dip switches off except number 6. All of the switches should be close to the switch numbers but number 6.
It looks like you are in Tacoma Javman? I work in Dupont so maybe we could get together and try my camera on your board and yours on mine sometime? Just let me know.
Post by: yetinme on January 19, 2009, 06:47:15 PM
Mark
Post by: yetinme on January 19, 2009, 07:04:04 PM
Mark
Post by: javman on January 19, 2009, 07:25:43 PM
Post by: Bones on January 19, 2009, 11:47:50 PM
Make sure the camera selector is on the camera icon or on the P setting.
Bones
Post by: javman on January 20, 2009, 12:27:05 AM
Post by: gkowen on January 20, 2009, 08:12:35 AM
I just tried a similar test with my w150. It takes pictures significantly slower on the P setting then it does the green camera. It says something about processing. I don't have a stop watch but It appeared more like 5 seconds on the 'P' setting and less than 2 seconds on the 'Green Camera' setting. Try it on the green camera and see if yours is faster too.
Post by: Bones on January 20, 2009, 08:41:39 AM
Gkowen, The P setting is for manually programmed settings. IF you use this setting, you have to manually program your settings into the camera. This is the setting that I use on my cameras, and there is no dfference in speeds.
You guys are messing with new cameras that no one has figured out yet.
Bones
Post by: gkowen on January 20, 2009, 08:50:19 AM
Javman, see if it doesn't work faster after turning off the DRO setting and the auto-review.
Post by: javman on January 20, 2009, 10:07:59 AM
Bones - Yeah it might be too slow. I figured someone had to try the new cameras :) Soon they'll be all over ebay for cheap. I think if this one can work with a time around 2.5 seconds it won't be too bad. Still better than my Moultrie I40's probably -- but I'll probably pick a faster one for the next cam.
Post by: Machias on January 20, 2009, 11:25:49 AM
Post by: bearbait on January 20, 2009, 11:40:28 AM
Post by: Machias on January 20, 2009, 11:48:19 AM
>:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( :'(
:yeah:
Post by: bigdave on January 20, 2009, 12:58:32 PM
Hey, on another note, I figured one other thing that I'm going to get from this meeting. Noone else will get it..... just me.... :IBCOOL:....do you know what it is?
A clean shop. I'll need to spend a little more time in there dustin' and sweeping and puttin' stuff away (hidin' my sheds) then we'll be ready to go.
Dave
Post by: Machias on January 20, 2009, 01:19:41 PM
Post by: gkowen on January 20, 2009, 01:51:24 PM
Post by: div4gold` on January 20, 2009, 02:43:10 PM
Post by: Houndhunter on January 20, 2009, 02:47:52 PM
thanks
Post by: WASHBCBOOK on January 20, 2009, 03:00:31 PM
Post by: Machias on January 20, 2009, 03:18:54 PM
JUST TO LET YOU ALL KNOW IF YOU LOOK UP THIS SITE WWW.CHASINGAME.COM THERE IS A HOMEBREW SECTION VERY HELPFUL INFO ANDTO THEGUYS TRYINGDIFFERENT CAMERA`S FOR HB YOUR WASTING YOUR TIME AND THE SONY S600 IS ONE OF THE BESTHB CAMERA`S ON THE MARKET..
All caps is considered yelling :) We can hear you just fine. :chuckle:
Post by: gramps on January 20, 2009, 07:45:17 PM
Looks like I would turn west when I hit the freeway from 195?
Post by: Bones on January 20, 2009, 09:21:33 PM
Bones
Post by: bigdave on January 21, 2009, 08:17:52 AM
I've been hearing that the bulk of the snow will come Saturday night into Sunday, but you never know. As you approach I90/Spokane get in the Left lane on 195 and you will be on a little curly-cue on ramp that will send you westbound on I90. Exit HWY 2 at the top of the hill and follow the directions. No problem
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 21, 2009, 10:48:04 AM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 21, 2009, 12:32:25 PM
Post by: Seth on January 22, 2009, 07:11:54 PM
Post by: Machias on January 22, 2009, 07:27:12 PM
Post by: bigdave on January 22, 2009, 08:09:49 PM
I'm really lookin' forward to Saturday. Don't forget to bring your coffee cup! I do have a fridge if you want to bring sodas. Anyone on here know how to make cornbread? It goes great with chili! See ya soon!
Post by: Bones on January 22, 2009, 10:03:46 PM
Everyone needs to bring a plastic container for their camera parts. A small margarine or Kool Whip tub works great. It is also good to have the lid.
The plastic container in this picture is a Kool Whip container. I like to line my container with a couple of coffee filters. The filters make it easier to pick up the small screws and it protects the camera parts.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC097931600x450.jpg&hash=9379cffdce6baac19f35b83bbd2174dfa447f44f)
I have three small screwdriver sets and Gramps has one. Everyone will take their own camera apart. I will show you how to do this with Dave's camera. This takes 5 minutes. I will use the shutter assembly that is already wired to reassemble Dave's camera right away. Then Gramps will show Dave how to drill his case and put it together. We will be bringing all of the tools necessary to do everything. Mark was nice enough to send me two extra boards and extra servos and other parts. I will be sending what we don't use back to Mark. If anyone wants to buy one of these boards or any of the parts, I will send the money to Mark. It was nice of Mark to send this stuff in case we need anything.
We will not be able to completely finish everyone's camera in one day. But all cameras will get wired, and all cases will be drilled and set up. I will use Dave's camera to show how to do the Bondo and paint. Everyone that comes will know how to do everything to build one of these cameras. Gramps and I are leaving here at 5:00 am Saturday, so we will be there between 8:00 and 8:30. Building these cameras is fun, and you guys will really enjoy learning how to do this.
See you Saturday
Post by: TeacherMan on January 22, 2009, 10:13:43 PM
Post by: Ridgeratt on January 23, 2009, 12:18:28 AM
Post by: bow4elk on January 23, 2009, 10:35:01 AM
Post by: BobR on January 23, 2009, 11:34:29 AM
When you take the front cover off of your camera, use it to make a template fpr the camera. Trace around it and inside the flash and lens openings. I will show you how to use this to make your own template Sunday.
Bones
Post by: bigdave on January 23, 2009, 12:14:31 PM
Post by: Bones on January 23, 2009, 06:55:43 PM
Bones
Post by: javman on January 23, 2009, 07:02:21 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 23, 2009, 07:11:07 PM
Post by: Bones on January 23, 2009, 08:54:12 PM
Bob
Post by: bow4elk on January 23, 2009, 08:56:38 PM
We would take pictures but every camera within a 100 yards will be in pieces :rolleyes:
LMAO! :chuckle:
Post by: bigdave on January 23, 2009, 09:02:18 PM
Bones, we're supposed to peel off the softer neoprene looking thing in the lid of our box right? Not the rubber side?
Post by: bow4elk on January 23, 2009, 09:11:41 PM
Post by: Bones on January 23, 2009, 09:21:26 PM
Bones
Post by: Bones on January 23, 2009, 09:24:31 PM
Bones
Post by: Machias on January 24, 2009, 04:04:50 PM
Post by: bow4elk on January 24, 2009, 06:03:56 PM
Post by: Ridgeratt on January 24, 2009, 07:03:03 PM
Post by: BobR on January 24, 2009, 09:19:34 PM
I really enjoyed meeting everyone, and I wish we were closer so we could get together again. We did not have much time to visit and get to know everyone. I am really anxious to see pictures from your cameras.
Bob
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 24, 2009, 11:57:46 PM
Bones, I tore the 55 apart again when I got home and found the red wire had broke loose, I can almost look back at when I was in reassembly mode and pinpoint when I was trying to get it to snap back together and it came loose. Anyway I got out my soldering iron and put it back on and it works great. After getting a glimpse inside the cameras I feel more confident attacking the project solo; I re-read the yeti cam site and now it all makes sense. Once again, thanks for coming up and schooling us. Thanks BigDave for the hospitality and chow, it was great.
All the local guys should feel confident enough to do it now too, plus now that we have met it will be an easy thing to get a hold of eachother and get them done. I will get a case tomorrow and be out in the garage tomorrow trying to wrap mine up, then off to the pawn shops and ebay to start looking for another camera.
Post by: bigdave on January 25, 2009, 08:39:51 AM
Dave
Post by: Ridgeratt on January 25, 2009, 10:39:32 AM
Post by: Machias on January 25, 2009, 10:56:36 AM
Post by: gramps on January 25, 2009, 01:12:06 PM
Post by: whacker1 on January 25, 2009, 02:27:39 PM
Thank You to Ridgeratt for providing the moose for the Chilli
thank You for Bones and Gramps for making the trek.
Enjoyed meeting everybody - Learned a lot and will be making several cameras this spring.
Post by: walt on January 25, 2009, 02:38:37 PM
Post by: rackattack on January 25, 2009, 02:57:24 PM
Post by: rackattack on January 25, 2009, 03:06:39 PM
Post by: bow4elk on January 25, 2009, 03:22:43 PM
Post by: ORDoubleLung on January 25, 2009, 04:40:38 PM
Post by: BobR on January 25, 2009, 05:49:16 PM
By the way, I hate "Bones" so from now on I am BobR.
Bob
Post by: gkowen on January 25, 2009, 06:29:46 PM
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii258/gkowen/DSC00078.jpg
Now here is where I put my camera. I could have camoflauged it better but its in the deep woods. And the flash will give it away anyway. I can't wait to pick it up next weekend. I wonder what settings everyone is going to use to take their trail cam photos. What do you use BobR? If you have said before and I missed it I am sorry.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi266.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii258%2Fgkowen%2FDSC00086.jpg&hash=85a7476654c6dc392bf49029f9247d4e25968fb1)
Post by: bigdave on January 25, 2009, 07:07:35 PM
I need to make some adjustments to either the camera or the control board settings to see if it will go a little faster. I currently have #6 turned on the control board and its taking a pic every 10 seconds. I'll read some more and get it tuned up. This is a very fun project and with the help of the folks on this board, very doable no matter your expertise. If you're interested, give it a try!!
Thanks again Bob!
Dave
Post by: ORDoubleLung on January 25, 2009, 07:33:01 PM
Thanks for the info. I thought that was it but I wasn't positive. How many pics do you get with one full battery. I just want an external because my cams will more than likely be a 6-8 hour round trip to retrieve them so I want to make sure they will last a long time. Like a month or two. But I still want to have it set up on a rapid pic mode.
My Nikon S600 seems to be doing well minus the toasted flash. :bash: :bash: I will post some pics of critters when I get them. Even on the Whitetail board it seems to take some quick pictures. I know your hooked on the W series but I really think the Nikon will be a good alternative as well. Especially if the prices stay so high. :twocents:
Post by: bow4elk on January 25, 2009, 07:38:35 PM
Post by: gkowen on January 25, 2009, 07:47:53 PM
The w80 goes from full off to first pic in about 2 seconds for flash. Quicker without flash. I have my switches set to just number 4 on. I have to experiment more for the best timing/best photos.
Post by: ORDoubleLung on January 25, 2009, 07:57:37 PM
I don't have pics yet but I will. Right now I have a 3 wire with a jumper across two of the posts on the shutter switch. I'm going to redo it with a 4 wire and see if I can hook it up to the focus terminal on the board and see which one works the best. The three wire is fine but it's a little tricky. I used the same wire since it's such a tight squeeze. It's a pretty simple hack though.
That was the first camera I hacked. After that I did a Sony S650. I just did a W90 a couple minutes ago and I would say they are about the same with the Nikon being a little easier. I don't think I would toast another flash now since I won't be messy with it with the battery in it again. The Nikon was a bit of a pain to figure out the jumper but I got it.
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 25, 2009, 09:18:47 PM
Post by: BaseballStud20 on January 26, 2009, 10:33:44 AM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 26, 2009, 10:43:35 AM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 26, 2009, 02:56:50 PM
Post by: Machias on January 26, 2009, 03:00:33 PM
I got my case and board from Yeti today, Yippeeeeee
Post by: BobR on January 26, 2009, 06:46:53 PM
Bob
Post by: WASHBCBOOK on January 26, 2009, 07:24:37 PM
Post by: olsy on January 26, 2009, 07:37:41 PM
Post by: bow4elk on January 26, 2009, 08:59:21 PM
anybody tried to hack the w150
gkowen did...pretty similar to the W80/90. He can tell you more when his sees this thread.
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 26, 2009, 09:31:21 PM
Post by: gkowen on January 26, 2009, 09:36:17 PM
Grizzly95, is your PIR sensor centered under the hole for the fresnel lens? It doesn't loook like it is.
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 26, 2009, 09:54:52 PM
Post by: gkowen on January 26, 2009, 09:59:16 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 27, 2009, 08:55:18 AM
Post by: bigdave on January 27, 2009, 09:55:46 AM
Post by: gkowen on January 27, 2009, 11:49:00 AM
Post by: bigdave on January 27, 2009, 12:22:03 PM
Are you on the green camera icon for your camera setting? I will test again.
Post by: gkowen on January 27, 2009, 12:31:53 PM
Post by: bigdave on January 27, 2009, 12:39:54 PM
Sorry guys, I'm a slow learner.... :P
Post by: gkowen on January 27, 2009, 12:41:32 PM
Post by: bigdave on January 27, 2009, 12:58:05 PM
I read the control board manual from yeti. The only difference I can see in my wiring is that I put the switch on the black wire instead of the red wire on the battery wires to the control board. Would that matter?
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 27, 2009, 01:04:42 PM
Quote
Sorry guys, I'm a slow learner....
And you are a teacher.... :chuckle:
Post by: gkowen on January 27, 2009, 01:07:31 PM
Post by: bigdave on January 27, 2009, 01:22:11 PM
My cam is a w80 with the yeticam board. Switch four is the only one "on" as labeled on the board.
Post by: gkowen on January 27, 2009, 02:02:54 PM
Post by: ORDoubleLung on January 27, 2009, 02:38:00 PM
See if you can see if you can find when your cam automatically shuts shuts off. You might be able to bump that p a little to keep it on longer. I have a W90 and I can't find it yet but must cams are adjustable for when it goes to sleep. I run all my cams on rapid pic mode. I think it's 5 off and 6 on.
Post by: gkowen on January 27, 2009, 03:26:33 PM
Post by: javman on January 27, 2009, 10:52:02 PM
I'm ready for camera #2 -- and it won't be a W120 this time :chuckle:
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.javinelliff.com%2Ftmp%2Fhomebrew01.jpg&hash=466a36a80b5c4ead936ebaacf971fdfe38595262)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.javinelliff.com%2Ftmp%2Fhomebrew02.jpg&hash=17bc4b44d386bf6273d7115f1e0caadf7e9667dd)
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 28, 2009, 09:14:23 AM
Post by: BobR on January 28, 2009, 09:59:24 AM
Bob
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 28, 2009, 10:47:15 AM
Post by: WASHBCBOOK on January 28, 2009, 10:50:34 AM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 28, 2009, 11:02:04 AM
Post by: gkowen on January 28, 2009, 11:28:13 AM
Post by: WASHBCBOOK on January 28, 2009, 11:33:31 AM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 28, 2009, 11:50:10 AM
Post by: WASHBCBOOK on January 28, 2009, 11:57:58 AM
Post by: gramps on January 28, 2009, 01:09:56 PM
Post by: WASHBCBOOK on January 28, 2009, 01:26:42 PM
Post by: WASHBCBOOK on January 28, 2009, 03:10:06 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 28, 2009, 03:33:24 PM
Post by: WASHBCBOOK on January 28, 2009, 03:40:53 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 28, 2009, 04:07:53 PM
Post by: WASHBCBOOK on January 28, 2009, 04:11:39 PM
Post by: BobR on January 28, 2009, 04:18:44 PM
Bob
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 28, 2009, 04:28:02 PM
Post by: whacker1 on January 28, 2009, 05:00:54 PM
Gramps and I timed his camera last Saturday. The initial start up is slow, but this only takes once, when you set up the camera. After that the camera detects motion and snaps the first pic between 1 1/2 - 2 seconds, after that it is 17-18 pics per minute with constant motion.
I believe Gramps has the W90 that we were playing with Saturday. I didn't build one on Saturday, because I was still debating, because I thought the trigger speed would be to slow. But I was impressed that in fact, it was much faster than I anticipated.
I am going to be building 2 or 3 this spring.
The primary difference between the 90 & 200 is the quality of picture. the W90 takes a 8 mega pixel picture. The W200 takes a 12 megapixel picture, which allows you to crop the picture much better.
Neil
Post by: whacker1 on January 28, 2009, 05:39:06 PM
Post by: BobR on January 28, 2009, 06:00:36 PM
WASHBCBOOK, There is no kit for a W200. There is absolutely no way it would fit in a case set up for a W55, W80 or W 90. The lens extends farhter out of the case than these other cameras. The flash on the 55 is in a different location.
Bob
Post by: WASHBCBOOK on January 28, 2009, 07:23:28 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 28, 2009, 07:38:36 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 28, 2009, 07:54:33 PM
Post by: bigdave on January 28, 2009, 07:59:56 PM
Dave
Post by: whacker1 on January 28, 2009, 09:55:59 PM
I could come up to your place and grab it from you some evening next week.
neil
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 28, 2009, 10:35:18 PM
Post by: BaseballStud20 on January 28, 2009, 11:44:00 PM
Post by: BobR on January 29, 2009, 12:06:24 AM
Post by: BobR on January 29, 2009, 01:27:13 AM
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC004801600x494.jpg&hash=b66e665d8a9dd457ff4c2e909c25bc6a13548ec6)
Soldering two wires together is hard because you have the soldering iron in one hand and the solder in the other. The wires must be held together, and they cannot be moved until the solder cools. Both wires must be tinned. You can see in this picture that I taped a piece of cardboard to the top of the camera. The servo is taped to this cardboard, and the red wire is taped so that it is in contact with the other red wire. This frees up both hands to do the soldering. After the solder cooled, I taped two more wires so they would be in contact. Then I did the same for the last two wires.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC004831600x409.jpg&hash=0f04ce580beffb0533c97c8e09ce71a41273eb1e)
In this picture, you can see all three wires have been soldered
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC004841600x388.jpg&hash=305ed34026f623abdd79734819fe6ede57359869)
Now I am coating the solder connections with liquid tape. The solder joints must be covered well on all sides
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC004851600x473.jpg&hash=e94f8bed1c3d082db57a539efa7ffc5d069d5728)
After the liquid tape is hardened, I brought the wires together and started coating them with the liquid tape.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC004881600x491.jpg&hash=543b443abbdee3f1ef439fb369ef94ff58f67f1f)
You can see that I cut a piece of double sided stickyback foam pad the size of the servo. The pad was stuck to the camera, and the servo pressed down and stuck to the pad. A small piece of foil duct tape also connects the servo to the camera.. Tomorrow, I will remove the three wires from the male servo plug and connect my phone wire to make the cable that goes to the control board. I will also add more liquid tape to the three wires coming out of the camera.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC004941600x473.jpg&hash=35790ce960b8231250092f2c4ddc65d18ed3a438)
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 29, 2009, 08:12:32 AM
Post by: BobR on January 29, 2009, 10:02:59 AM
Bob
Post by: BobR on January 29, 2009, 10:20:19 AM
Post a picture of your camera ( front and back shots) and I will explain how to remove the lens assembly from your pictures. I have a couple that I can send to you, but I am not sure if they work. Watch for a broken parts camera that has a bad LCD on ebay.
Bob
http://www.fixya.com/support/t185137-sony_dsc_w80
Post by: BaseballStud20 on January 29, 2009, 11:41:59 AM
Post by: gkowen on January 29, 2009, 04:27:53 PM
Here is a link to the original pic (large size) http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii258/gkowen/DSC00525a.jpg
And here is my cropped and resized photo
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi266.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii258%2Fgkowen%2FDeer1.jpg&hash=274c05ed60eac40516e0d92f1c2e7dfb8f0fc47e)
Post by: BobR on January 29, 2009, 05:38:14 PM
Bob
Post by: gkowen on January 29, 2009, 06:03:53 PM
I am just waiting for my UV filter to arrive for the w150 then it will go out.
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 29, 2009, 06:27:01 PM
Post by: gkowen on January 29, 2009, 06:48:40 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 29, 2009, 06:53:58 PM
Post by: olsy on January 29, 2009, 08:58:37 PM
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CNI4E8/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&s=photo (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CNI4E8/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&s=photo)
Post by: BobR on January 29, 2009, 09:03:00 PM
Greg, I have never had a false trigger with my homebrews. The homebrew control boards are far superior to the electronics in factory trailcams.
Bob
Post by: Grizzly95 on January 29, 2009, 10:40:24 PM
Post by: div4gold` on January 31, 2009, 02:11:17 PM
Post by: gkowen on January 31, 2009, 03:46:36 PM
I have done a w150 and it was different than the w80 or w90 but still doable. Look on the yeticam site and under the manuals section there are some pics of the w130. Those pics show you the process. Tonight I plan to test the speed of the 150 and the 80. These are the 2 cams I have done. It seems to work fine.
Post by: div4gold` on January 31, 2009, 04:09:19 PM
Post by: BobR on February 01, 2009, 01:53:55 AM
The arrows in these pictures show the solder locations.
Red - Power
Black - Ground
Green - Shutter
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC098412600x296.jpg&hash=04ce4f54c1cd858c467d6160893196acb5d05d8d)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC098431586x600.jpg&hash=b7ce202a6b07dca7844da6e34cf7c079cd1bebf3)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC098471600x540.jpg&hash=9c37bd2411aee96314b6a5545dcb7b34b803e16e)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC098581600x553.jpg&hash=75148840264726424874fa1bef2266323e390ff2)
This is a very difficult camera to get the wires out. I finally figured out an easier way. Clip the wires that connect the microphone to the board. This picture shows how to route the wires over to the microphone opening. I put a small spot of hot glue to hold the wires in place where the yellow dots are in this picture. After the camera is back together, put the servo on top of the camera.
Bob
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC098413600x251.jpg&hash=bc2d307705ebb161270a5b884c1ad6e817f905fd)
Post by: BobR on February 01, 2009, 02:23:20 AM
Bob
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDSC085514600x417.jpg&hash=b01bbe01279570f724c3a398dca842cf632d4350)
Post by: Machias on February 01, 2009, 11:02:06 AM
P.S. Which ever one of you suckers outbid me last night on the 90 with 5 seconds to go, grrrr :):)
Post by: WASHBCBOOK on February 01, 2009, 11:12:44 AM
Post by: whacker1 on February 01, 2009, 02:01:47 PM
Post by: bearbait on February 01, 2009, 06:01:05 PM
Machias:
If you need anything to finish your case let me know. I have 1 1/4 " and 1" hole saw, Bondo, paint, wires, and even some flux if you are in need.
Cosco has 2 pack 2gig memory sticks for less than $20.
Post by: Ridgeratt on February 01, 2009, 06:17:13 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on February 01, 2009, 06:53:01 PM
Post by: BobR on February 01, 2009, 08:39:45 PM
Bob
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2Findexphp-1.png&hash=55db6a1cd2bb11c7d4c7b84f2638a6beef62f494)
Post by: Machias on February 01, 2009, 09:28:55 PM
Thanks Bearbait, but I got everything. My 30 gauge wire got here Sat.
Post by: bearbait on February 01, 2009, 10:08:47 PM
Took my wires out through the speaker holes and works great. Used the wires from the servo. :chuckle:
Post by: Craig on February 01, 2009, 10:37:55 PM
Post by: BobR on February 01, 2009, 10:48:27 PM
Congrats bearbait, I am anxious to see some pictures from you guys. Gramps and I set three cameras today. We have some really good sets working right now.
Bob
Post by: div4gold` on February 01, 2009, 11:04:24 PM
hi div4gold,
I have done a w150 and it was different than the w80 or w90 but still doable. Look on the yeticam site and under the manuals section there are some pics of the w130. Those pics show you the process. Tonight I plan to test the speed of the 150 and the 80. These are the 2 cams I have done. It seems to work fine.
I just sent payment for a W150 off of ebay and ordered stuff from Yeti. What size pvc do I need for the lens opening on the W150? Thanks hds
Post by: Craig on February 01, 2009, 11:11:48 PM
I plugged the shutter back in then I pressed the power button and the camera turned on. I pressed the shetter button and the camera took a picture. Is that the test?
Post by: Ridgeratt on February 01, 2009, 11:14:27 PM
Post by: Machias on February 01, 2009, 11:19:21 PM
Post by: Craig on February 02, 2009, 10:35:58 AM
Post by: gkowen on February 02, 2009, 10:58:49 AM
Post by: BaseballStud20 on February 02, 2009, 07:26:54 PM
Post by: BobR on February 02, 2009, 07:41:24 PM
Bob
Post by: Grizzly95 on February 02, 2009, 07:47:47 PM
BobR, have you tried any infra-red conversions? My boss wants to try it, he is a little better at electronics than me.
Quote
Just like you would a pack of cigarettes or a deck of cards.
Or a can of fresh cope :chuckle:
Post by: gkowen on February 02, 2009, 07:49:50 PM
I think I used what is called a black plastic reducer. It is 2" x 1 1/4" bushing. I got mine at Home Depot. Here is a similar one on a website.
http://www.homeandbeyond.com/prod-0081203.html
Post by: div4gold` on February 02, 2009, 09:04:29 PM
Hi div4gold,
I think I used what is called a black plastic reducer. It is 2" x 1 1/4" bushing. I got mine at Home Depot. Here is a similar one on a website.
http://www.homeandbeyond.com/prod-0081203.html
Thanks. When the lens is extended how much clearance should be between it and the glass extension cover?
Post by: BobR on February 02, 2009, 09:39:07 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on February 02, 2009, 11:10:34 PM
Post by: Skyvalhunter on February 03, 2009, 08:03:58 AM
Post by: gkowen on February 03, 2009, 08:52:17 AM
Post by: Skyvalhunter on February 03, 2009, 09:29:58 AM
Post by: Grizzly95 on February 03, 2009, 09:37:35 AM
Post by: bigdave on February 03, 2009, 09:55:20 AM
I have a copy of the template for the w80/w90. I'm going to try to photocopy it at work today and see how accurate it is. Otherwise I have some I've made out of 1/4 ply I could probably send you. PM me your address.
Other guys who wanted a temlpate from me. I have addresses and will mail them today. Sorry about the delay. It was a rough weekend at the Joneses. I haven't forgotten, though.
Dave
Post by: BobR on February 03, 2009, 10:11:51 AM
Bob
Post by: Grizzly95 on February 03, 2009, 01:13:57 PM
Post by: BobR on February 03, 2009, 02:28:30 PM
White screen means the LCD is not working. The white is the LCD back light, and that is working. The LCD is not receiving the signal from the board. Could be a loose ribbon cable or it could be a bad board. These cameras are easy to repair, but you need parts from parts cameras. You can't just order one broken camera and expect to be able to fix it. Sometimes you get lucky but not very often.
Bob
Post by: BobR on February 03, 2009, 02:40:11 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on February 03, 2009, 03:19:18 PM
And if I press the shutter button it seems to be taking a picture, the flash goes off and everything like that.
Post by: Ridgeratt on February 03, 2009, 04:13:27 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on February 03, 2009, 04:22:22 PM
Post by: gkowen on February 03, 2009, 05:30:49 PM
Post by: javman on February 03, 2009, 08:51:23 PM
Post by: gkowen on February 03, 2009, 09:04:02 PM
Post by: javman on February 03, 2009, 09:20:44 PM
It sounds like yours is missing the first pic, as my W120 was with the W80 board. If you put it in 2-pic mode, with rapid pic off, does it only take one pic per motion event??? (turn switches 4 and 7 on, the rest off).
Post by: gkowen on February 03, 2009, 09:33:36 PM
Post by: javman on February 03, 2009, 09:42:20 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on February 04, 2009, 09:46:20 AM
Post by: Grizzly95 on February 04, 2009, 11:27:46 AM
Post by: Skyvalhunter on February 04, 2009, 01:43:02 PM
Post by: Grizzly95 on February 04, 2009, 02:09:12 PM
Post by: div4gold` on February 04, 2009, 02:19:57 PM
gkowen, I reread your post. The ISO and flash work exactly opposite of how you think they do. The flash is adjustable on this camera.The flash level is set according to the ISO the camera uses. The brightest flash is when the ISO is set on 3200. When the ISO is set on 100 the flash is VERY WEAK. This seems exactly the opposite of the way I thought it should be. This is how you test the camera to see what I am talking about. Place the selector knob on the camera to the "P" setting. ( The P setting is for manually programmed settings) (The green camera icon is for using fully automatic settings). Go to the menu and set the ISO to 3200. Do this at night, and then take the camera into a dark room. Hold out the camera and take a picture. You will see that the camera uses a VERY BRIGHT flash on ISO 3200. Now go back to the menu, and set the ISO on 100. Then take the same picture. You will see that the camera uses a very weak flash setting on ISO 100. Now compare the pictures. It took me about a year to figure out how to use the ISO to get the best flash setting, and I just figured that out in October. Before then, I always set the camera on the green camera icon and used the camera on fully automatic settings. On this setting the ISO is on automatic. In daylight, the camera uses ISO 100 to 400 depending on whether is is a sunny day or overcast. But on this setting, the camera always uses ISO 800 for night time flash pictures. On this setting, the flash level is only about 50% of the flash available in this camera.
If you place the selector on the P setting, you can leave all other settings on auto and manually set the ISO to any of the available settings. But as you raise the ISO level, the night pictures become grainy, and the day pictures are washed out. You can't even set the ISO to 800 on the P setting because this hurts the quality of your day pictures. There is no way to use the bright flash on these cameras when the camera is used in a trailcam. So I ran my cameras on auto for a year. I decided that I needed to build external slave flashes for the cameras since I could not utilize the brighter flash ranges of these cameras.
I bought two Vivatar 2800 flash units on ebay. I planned on ordering two slave flash control boards from bigfoot outdoors.com, and also two 1020 Pelican cases to put these external slave flash units in. But in October, I learned how to use these cameras. The camera has the amazing ability to take sharp high quality pictures in low light conditions with very little flash. I now use ISO 100, 200 and sometimes 400 depending on the distance I expect the animals to be from my camera. These cameras come with a CD that has a manual for the camera and also photo editing software. This software is called Picture Motion Browser. This software is designed for these cameras, and it allows you to add the flash to your pictures on your computer. I knew this all along, but if you add flash to the higher ISO pictures it destroys them. You never want to use an ISO setting above 400, and 100 or 200 are the best choices. I will post more on this later, and I will also post examples of pictures before and after the flash is added. Sometimes, you don't get this CD with cameras you buy on ebay. I have several of these CD's, and I can send one to anyone that needs it. After you install it on your computer, you can send it to someone else that needs it. You really need this CD for editing your night pictures.
Bones
My ebay camera didn't come with the CD, PM me if you could send me one. I'll return it or send it on to the next ebay buyer. Thanks Hds
Post by: ORDoubleLung on February 04, 2009, 02:51:47 PM
My ebay camera didn't come with the CD, PM me if you could send me one. I'll return it or send it on to the next ebay buyer. Thanks Hds
[/quote
If you look on eBay for the cameras with no CD most of the sellers have a link to the free download for the software. Next time I'm on there I'll copy and post it. Maybe someone can make it a sticky for those of you who don't have it.
Shawn
Post by: ORDoubleLung on February 04, 2009, 02:53:12 PM
Post by: gkowen on February 04, 2009, 03:33:43 PM
http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/swu-list.pl?mdl=DSCW80&SelectOS=31
Post by: div4gold` on February 04, 2009, 04:56:11 PM
My ebay camera didn't come with the CD, PM me if you could send me one. I'll return it or send it on to the next ebay buyer. Thanks Hds
[/quote
If you look on eBay for the cameras with no CD most of the sellers have a link to the free download for the software. Next time I'm on there I'll copy and post it. Maybe someone can make it a sticky for those of you who don't have it.
Shawn
This is what I get when I click on the Drivers and Software at that site. I've got XP sp2, I don't have the camera yet but I'd guess that it will recognise the camera and download pictures. I was just wondering about the photo program that is on the CD?
The following is from the Sony site:
Driver information for Microsoft® Windows Vista® and Windows® XP
The drivers needed to connect most Sony® cameras and camcorders to a computer are already included in the Windows Vista and Windows XP operating systems. With these drivers, you should be able to connect and transfer files to a computer.
Note: If the your camera or camcorder is not recognized by the computer when connected, you may need an updated driver.
Detailed Windows Vista compatibility information is available for Sony Cameras and Camcorders.
The Windows Vista Starter edition and Windows XP 64-bit operating systems are not supported.
Post by: div4gold` on February 04, 2009, 05:11:38 PM
I found this after a little more poking around.
Post by: ORDoubleLung on February 04, 2009, 08:14:32 PM
http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/swu-list.pl?mdl=DSCW90&LOC=3
Post by: div4gold` on February 04, 2009, 08:25:15 PM
This is the link from one of the sellers that doesn't offer the CD. They say it's a free download for the software that comes with it. But then again they're an eBay seller.
http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/swu-list.pl?mdl=DSCW90&LOC=3
I can miss things but it seem like they want to charge for the CD. You can download manuals and drivers for free but I can't figure out how to download the CD.
Post by: ORDoubleLung on February 04, 2009, 08:31:57 PM
That's some great customer service! Thanks Mark. :tup: :tup: :tup:
I'll still get a new opto-isolator and get the other board fixed and send you the money for the board.
I swapped out the board in my W90 rig and tested it in the kitchen and all is good. Now it's wired to a tree. :IBCOOL: This cam has externals and I'm going to see how many pics I get with 4 AA's. It's set up to run 8 AA's but I figured I would fill up my 4GB card with the 4 AA's as it is but I will see in the next day or two.
Thanks again Mark!!
Post by: Grizzly95 on February 08, 2009, 05:09:07 PM
Post by: Craig on February 08, 2009, 06:10:23 PM
Post by: gkowen on February 08, 2009, 06:27:28 PM
Post by: bow4elk on February 08, 2009, 08:13:49 PM
Post by: Skyvalhunter on February 08, 2009, 08:16:08 PM
Post by: WASHBCBOOK on February 10, 2009, 08:34:59 AM
Post by: div4gold` on February 10, 2009, 11:32:55 AM
Post by: div4gold` on February 10, 2009, 11:52:57 AM
Does anyone know if they make a 9v battery "life left" or "% used" device that can be wired in? I always swap out my 9v in my homebrews because I always want fresh batteries in the unit. I suppose you could just carry a batter tester in the field and check them when you're out but that's kind of a bother.
Here's one but you have to put it together yourself.
http://home.cc.umanitoba.ca/~burchil/RAD/GasGauge.6.9.12.v.html
Post by: WASHBCBOOK on February 10, 2009, 12:23:02 PM
Post by: bigdave on February 10, 2009, 12:43:34 PM
It looks great. I really like the wires coming out the mic holes. It keep it very neat.
Great job!!
Dave
Post by: BobR on February 10, 2009, 01:23:24 PM
Bob
Post by: gkowen on February 10, 2009, 02:47:05 PM
Oh and one other tip I discovered. I use the board layout drawing to drill the holes for the board mounting. It has the four corner holes and the PIR center marked. I just print it, tape it on the back of the case and drill the 4 mounting holes. Then I drill the PIR hole through the bottom and the top. I use a small drill bit and use this as my guide to cut the larger hole for the fresnel lens. Then when I mount the fresnel lens, I just shine my laser pointer through the back hole and move the lense to get the dot on the focus point. It isn't hard with the round fresnel, but the wide angle one has a strange focus point. It worked well.
Post by: bigdave on February 10, 2009, 02:55:45 PM
Is there a hole for the flash? You might not need it with the clear case I guess. I was just wondering.
Dave
Post by: Machias on February 10, 2009, 06:53:06 PM
Post by: WASHBCBOOK on February 10, 2009, 08:32:50 PM
Post by: gkowen on February 10, 2009, 09:34:40 PM
Post by: Skyvalhunter on February 13, 2009, 05:46:35 AM
Post by: bearbait on February 15, 2009, 03:41:03 PM
Post by: div4gold` on February 15, 2009, 04:00:06 PM
What type of store should I go to to get the 1"x1" aluminum angle for the camera mount on the homebuilt?
Ace Hardware, etc has that kind of stuff.
Post by: bigdave on February 15, 2009, 04:25:00 PM
Post by: Machias on February 15, 2009, 04:38:43 PM
Post by: Craig on February 20, 2009, 12:22:30 PM
Post by: bigdave on February 20, 2009, 12:26:00 PM
Camera prices have gone up about 35-40% since Jan end of Dec.
Pretty amazing.
Post by: Grizzly95 on February 20, 2009, 12:33:05 PM
Post by: Skyvalhunter on March 10, 2009, 05:52:50 AM
Post by: BobR on March 11, 2009, 12:04:00 AM
Red - power
Black - ground
Green - shutter
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi19.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb177%2Fbob_43%2FDCS085514600x417.jpg&hash=a5e504c858b84e43bde28faf3c4ddc73f5bc33a2)
Post by: BobR on March 11, 2009, 12:12:53 AM
Bob
Post by: Craig on March 19, 2009, 01:05:43 PM
Post by: Skyvalhunter on March 24, 2009, 07:59:10 PM
Post by: gramps on March 24, 2009, 08:05:04 PM
Post by: Skyvalhunter on March 24, 2009, 08:08:53 PM
Post by: Machias on March 24, 2009, 08:11:43 PM
Post by: div4gold` on March 24, 2009, 08:20:55 PM
I got a 2 gig on ebay for $7, plus free shipping.
That's a good price. The ones at Costco are a good deal also.
Post by: Skyvalhunter on March 25, 2009, 05:34:24 AM
Post by: BobR on March 25, 2009, 08:52:06 AM
Post by: BobR on March 25, 2009, 08:54:06 AM
http://homebrews.forumwww.com/blue-light-specials-f11.html
Post by: Skyvalhunter on March 25, 2009, 06:00:12 PM
Post by: One Horned Spike on April 01, 2009, 07:01:35 AM
Post by: Machias on April 01, 2009, 09:28:12 AM
Post by: One Horned Spike on April 01, 2009, 02:06:22 PM