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Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: kisfish on October 15, 2014, 08:58:07 AM
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I have a 99 ford diesel and it has 190000 miles. My front tires are cambered in at the top. I feel pretty comfortable that its the ball joints and will also check the wheel bearings. I have never changed ball joint before but can figure out most stuff. I will also watch some youtube. Anyone ever changed them or have good advise for changing them? Any special tools? I think they take a pickle fork to split them
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When was the last time you changed your struts/shocks?
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They have never been changed. Probably should check that too.
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tools:
from parts stores (rent)
- pickle fork (to seperate)
- ball joint puller set
heavy hammer and all wrenches to access
be careful not to damage disc brake lines and sensors if abs
get good joints, it may be difficult to remove them and may require heat to get out, new going in EZ. when in there, make sure and look at everything else in the area, hub and/or wheel bearings, shocks, u joints, tie rod ends ect...
Be ready for lots of cussing! overall very managable for a weekend mechanic....youtube will be a great value to see it accomplished.
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Get a ball joint service kit/ tool, about $30 at Harbor Freight tools or just barrow one from AutoZone.
The tool will eliminate you beating the old ball joint out and the new one in.
Be careful with AutoZone's ball joints they are not very good. I bought four from them and two joint did not last 10,000 miles.
If you plan on keeping the truck longer, then it would be a good idea to replace the coil springs, shocks, upper and lower ball joint. The truck will need the front aligned after the work.
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Just a quick update. Front drivers side wheel bearing is shot ola. tons of slop. When I put constant pressure on it I have just a little play in the top ball joint. Total parts just over $500 with a hub assembly, new American made ball joints and seals. I called around to see what a shop will charge in labor but I have a feeling I will tackle this project. I will keep you updated on the price they get back to me with.
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are you getting any noise while driving. Just curious as I have a sound I am about to track down and this bearing thing is suspect
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Just a quick update. Front drivers side wheel bearing is shot ola. tons of slop. When I put constant pressure on it I have just a little play in the top ball joint. Total parts just over $500 with a hub assembly, new American made ball joints and seals. I called around to see what a shop will charge in labor but I have a feeling I will tackle this project. I will keep you updated on the price they get back to me with.
Another option if your not comfortable pressing the joints in or out would be to pull the knuckles and have a shop press the ball joints for you. That would save you allot of the labor cost.
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no clunking noise but what I do hear is a bearing squeal going around corners on the highway. My truck gets driven less than 1000 miles a year and I went on a trip to Colorado and noticed the sound on that trip. When I stopped I noticed the drivers side tire was wearing on the inside edge. I felt the rim and hub and it wasn't hot so I kept an eye on it on the way home.
I will keep in mind the shop pressing the bearings. I am also going to check see if autozone has the press in their loaner tool program.
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Mine is a tiny grind sound, almost like a disc pad dragging. Very weak at this point. I can almost imagine it changing pitchw when turning. I'm freaking out because of all the miles I put on in the next month. I need to jack it up and give it a looksee.
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Just a quick update. Front drivers side wheel bearing is shot ola. tons of slop. When I put constant pressure on it I have just a little play in the top ball joint. Total parts just over $500 with a hub assembly, new American made ball joints and seals. I called around to see what a shop will charge in labor but I have a feeling I will tackle this project. I will keep you updated on the price they get back to me with.
you can fix all this! shop will soak you.... it really is a managable project. i did my first one cold and will never return to a shop for this repair. tools are available at all your parts stores, they charge price of tool, and when you return, refund. as we spoke to earlier, you will find the entire process in a youtube video for your truck, this is how i did my first one~. wheel bearing i suspected would replace as well. think of it this way, you are this far in, step up and replace both side hubs, replace tir rod ends, ball joints, check discs ect.... the new parts will be less than what a shop would have charged in just labor and you have one post action to get a front alignment. ez done!
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Mine was a bearing. What in pain in the keester
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Here is the update on replacing the ball joints. The truck is finished and here is how the project took shape. I bought a set of good ball joints and a wheel hub assembly. The parts were just over $500. I talked to the shop to see what they would charge to replace these items. They wanted $1300 and that included the parts. I made a mistake going to Autozone for a ball joint puller from their loaner program. I'm sure it works great for a car but it didn't give me enough length for this application. My lock in hubs had been very sticky for several years and it took a big set of pliers to turn the hubs. I figured while it was apart I would go ahead and replace those as well. I stopped by the ford dealership and they wanted $485 a piece for them :yike:. I have to say the parts guy there was pretty helpful. He told me to save some cash and go down to the 4x4 shop a few miles down the road. I ended up getting a set of Warn hubs for $250 for the set. I ended up getting a set of seals for the axels, set of brake pads and new rotors. All in all it went pretty smooth. It took an afternoon to pull it all apart and a little over five hours to get it back together. I had one hang up with the slider pins on the brake caliper bracket. They were all froze up and the caliper would not center. I pulled those back off and had a bear of a time getting them out. I put them in the vice and worked the pins out. I cleaned them up with the wire wheel and re-greased them. It worked perfect. Got it all back together and it all works perfect. All in all not to bad of a project. Next stop the alignment shop.
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Nice work, glad you were able to save some coin and get it done yourself!