Post by: wadu1 on October 17, 2014, 03:08:54 PM
Thanks
Post by: FC on October 18, 2014, 12:26:21 AM
I would pull the code and see what it is before doing anything, honestly you may be better off seeing a shop for this as anything without diagnosing the problem is just guessing. Guessing can get pretty expensive.
Post by: fish vacuum on October 18, 2014, 02:42:53 AM
Post by: papisjeep on October 18, 2014, 06:55:59 AM
http://www.troublecodes.net/gm/ (http://www.troublecodes.net/gm/)
Post by: jackelope on October 18, 2014, 09:14:35 AM
Parts stores like O'Reilley's or Autozone might be able to pull codes and tell you what's up for free.
They'd need a OBD1 scanner and then you're still guessing. That's a code, it's not a diagnosis of the problem. OBD1 is old school and might be tough to come by via the parts store route.
Post by: boneaddict on October 18, 2014, 10:00:43 AM
Post by: washelkhunter on October 18, 2014, 10:34:24 AM
Post by: KFhunter on October 18, 2014, 11:01:13 AM
Start with all the simple things and eliminate the easy problem before you drop the tank and pull the fuel lines.
Post by: whacker1 on October 18, 2014, 11:02:44 AM
tune up time would be my second guess.
bad plug, wire, fuel filter, etc causing the problem
Post by: jackelope on October 18, 2014, 11:28:37 AM
Pull the fuel filter and look for globs of rust or gunk first.
Start with all the simple things and eliminate the easy problem before you drop the tank and pull the fuel lines.
Why would he do that?
Post by: KFhunter on October 18, 2014, 11:30:16 AM
Post by: wadu1 on October 18, 2014, 12:16:21 PM
The place I took it said I would need to have OBD1 type scanner done to find the fault codes. The two places near me with OBD1 scanner will only do it if they work on it. I'll try doing a tune-up, gas filter and run some injector cleaner first. I did use Heat in my last fill up and it did not correct anything, I also only run Union 76 or Chevron fuel because of issues with cheap gas. ThanksParts stores like O'Reilley's or Autozone might be able to pull codes and tell you what's up for free.
They'd need a OBD1 scanner and then you're still guessing. That's a code, it's not a diagnosis of the problem. OBD1 is old school and might be tough to come by via the parts store route.
Post by: toothfangclaw on October 18, 2014, 12:29:48 PM
The place I took it said I would need to have OBD1 type scanner done to find the fault codes. The two places near me with OBD1 scanner will only do it if they work on it. I'll try doing a tune-up, gas filter and run some injector cleaner first. I did use Heat in my last fill up and it did not correct anything, I also only run Union 76 or Chevron fuel because of issues with cheap gas. ThanksParts stores like O'Reilley's or Autozone might be able to pull codes and tell you what's up for free.
They'd need a OBD1 scanner and then you're still guessing. That's a code, it's not a diagnosis of the problem. OBD1 is old school and might be tough to come by via the parts store route.
This is the answer to find codes.
its really easy to do yourself ya just need a paperclip
http://www.troublecodes.net/gm/ (http://www.troublecodes.net/gm/)
Post by: CAMPMEAT on October 18, 2014, 12:35:33 PM
Post by: Rich_S on October 18, 2014, 12:37:53 PM
If your distributor cap is over a couple of years old, I would replace it (including the rotor) just on general principles.
Post by: dewandgin on October 18, 2014, 12:50:48 PM
From the Wetside. like the darkside only Wetter!
Post by: jackelope on October 18, 2014, 01:06:14 PM
Post by: dewandgin on October 18, 2014, 02:13:32 PM
Those injectors are very trouble free, aren't they, dewandgin?
Yea I think I have replaced one maybe two in 22yrs of working in a Chevy shop. It only runs 12-15psi so fuel pumps very rarely go bad
His problem sounds familiar but I hate throwing money at a problem. I would rather spend two hrs diag a problem and fix it with a single part then load the parts cannon up and start firing away. :chuckle: :chuckle:
Post by: runamuk on October 18, 2014, 02:21:19 PM
its really easy to do yourself ya just need a paperclipused to do this on all my old chevy's then call my chevy mechanic friend and get his input. Then watch my ex throw all sorts of money at stupid stuff anyway :bash: :bash: :bash: I know use a mechanic and he tells me if I can go home and do it myself :) like my shocks
http://www.troublecodes.net/gm/ (http://www.troublecodes.net/gm/)
Post by: wadu1 on October 19, 2014, 04:02:54 PM
Campmeat, my wife id looking into dipping into her 401K to get me a new truck and the daughter a newer car.
Thanks everyone
Post by: Rich_S on October 20, 2014, 01:09:48 PM
Did you get the good cap and rotor which has Copper contacts?
Post by: wadu1 on October 20, 2014, 03:09:48 PM
Wadu ..............Yes from NAPA
Did you get the good cap and rotor which has Copper contacts?
Post by: ballpark on October 20, 2014, 03:22:55 PM
Post by: elkoholic1 on October 20, 2014, 03:51:04 PM
I have a 98 K1500, autozone does it for free. They will not reset the OBD but will give the codes and print out solution for you.
your 98 is OBDII his 94 is OBDI totally different diag scanners used to pull codes most auto parts store only carry OBDII scanners witch is basically 96 and newer rigs!! id use the paper clip and jump the ALDL connetor and cycle the ignition and count the flashes of the engine light to pull codes then can cross that on line for fault code!!
Post by: wadu1 on October 20, 2014, 04:38:53 PM
I have a 98 K1500, autozone does it for free. They will not reset the OBD but will give the codes and print out solution for you.
your 98 is OBDII his 94 is OBDI totally different diag scanners used to pull codes most auto parts store only carry OBDII scanners witch is basically 96 and newer rigs!! id use the paper clip and jump the ALDL connetor and cycle the ignition and count the flashes of the engine light to pull codes then can cross that on line for fault code!!
Day 1
I tried the trouble code instructions and used a jumper on the ALDL and got almost every code in my Haynes manual. Then started with the basics plugs, rotor, rotor cap and new wires. I found one culprit right off the bat the coil wire was shorting out on the air cleaner the next was a loose rotor cap. I replaced the plugs/wires/cap/rotor as well as the fuel filter. On a short run it appeared to work just fine.
Day 2
I did a freeway run with hills today and not one issue after I replaced all the wires plugs etc. And I got gas at a Union 76 for $2.79 :IBCOOL:. The main issue was the coil wire was shorting on the air cleaner and the rotor cap was not seated allowing it to move up and down. The rotor even wore a groove into the cap that was close to 1/8" deep.
Post by: timberghost72 on October 20, 2014, 06:18:58 PM
Be sure to clear all your codes. But before you do write all your codes down and then clear them. That way the next time you have a problem and you have a code you will only have a newer code not an older one that may or may not be current.