Post by: CP on November 17, 2014, 10:58:14 AM
Post by: headshot5 on November 17, 2014, 11:00:57 AM
Don't just throw them out when they get dull.
Post by: fishngamereaper on November 17, 2014, 11:01:28 AM
Post by: wildmanoutdoors on November 17, 2014, 11:02:43 AM
Post by: rtspring on November 17, 2014, 11:08:48 AM
Chains last a long time if you take care of them.
Post by: boneaddict on November 17, 2014, 11:16:42 AM
Post by: PlateauNDN on November 17, 2014, 11:27:21 AM
Post by: boneaddict on November 17, 2014, 11:32:17 AM
Post by: Humptulips on November 17, 2014, 11:47:36 AM
Got yourself a chiselbit chain. You can still file it round with the same files.
Post by: boneaddict on November 17, 2014, 12:22:46 PM
Post by: Netminder01 on November 17, 2014, 12:28:14 PM
I was cutting all weekend with a semi-new saw but never have sharpened anything but a knives and a few tools. I was cutting this weekend and tried looking on YouTube via my phone with crappy reception. I powered through it but could tell the difference in how it cut near the end... making it four truck loads of rounds with no sharpening. The hand tool I got didn't really make sense to me.
Any recommended tools for the average guy - or even good instructional videos?
Post by: pianoman9701 on November 17, 2014, 12:28:34 PM
Post by: pianoman9701 on November 17, 2014, 12:30:51 PM
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=sharpening+a+chain+saw+chain (https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=sharpening+a+chain+saw+chain)
Post by: T Pearce on November 17, 2014, 12:36:15 PM
Post by: Netminder01 on November 17, 2014, 12:37:35 PM
I'm going to find out on YouTube. God, the internet is amazing.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=sharpening+a+chain+saw+chain (https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=sharpening+a+chain+saw+chain)
Do you mean the thing I invented?
Post by: b23 on November 17, 2014, 12:39:09 PM
Keep it out of the dirt and rocks and all you need to do is give each tooth a few quick passes with a round file. No need to take the chain off your saw, either. If you have a stump you can use just stick the dogs into the top at an angle and lean over the top of your saw and give each tooth a few passes with a round file. Follow the contour of the cutting edge and apply light pressure. Your file is harder than the chain so let the file do the work for you. For new guys, the trick is applying the same amount of pressure going both directions. Depending on if you are right or left handed, at first you'll find it easier going one direction versus the other but again, try really hard to apply the same amount of pressure going both directions. Depending on your skill level with a saw, it's probably best if you leave the rakes alone.
It's actually pretty easy to sharpen a chain and only takes a few minutes to do. Keep them sharp, away from dirt and rocks, and a chain will last a really long time.
Post by: whacker1 on November 17, 2014, 12:42:54 PM
I have been sharpening chains for 20 years and never could get good enough to get right and left even. It is worth the extra peso's on long bar and chain to have it done at the saw shop. At least that is the way I feel.
I used to have 7 extra chains for a 32 inch bar, but I am down to about 5 as they are all getting worn down to the point of disposal. Buy a few extra chains up front and they last forever with infrequent sharpenings.
Post by: logger on November 17, 2014, 12:50:27 PM
Post by: elk247 on November 17, 2014, 01:09:52 PM
Oh man - such a timely post!Take the same amount off every tooth. Keeping the chain sharp is only half the battle, if you have a straight/evenly sharpend chain with the correct raker depth you will spend most your energy lifting the saw away from the log instead of pushing the saw into the cut. (Hope that makes sense, don't know how to word it) what do you mean by tools? Do you have files, (flat and round) skwrench, (sp.) Maybe a raker gauge, a pickeroon helps with small firewood. Service the air filter often.
I was cutting all weekend with a semi-new saw but never have sharpened anything but a knives and a few tools. I was cutting this weekend and tried looking on YouTube via my phone with crappy reception. I powered through it but could tell the difference in how it cut near the end... making it four truck loads of rounds with no sharpening. The hand tool I got didn't really make sense to me.
Any recommended tools for the average guy - or even good instructional videos?
Post by: runningboard on November 17, 2014, 01:22:32 PM
When cutting line, you are cutting like a beast with a swamper helping you and 18 guys digging behind you. You don't have time to stop and sharpen. We'd carry a spare to swap out, especially while cutting sage of all things. Dirty dirty stuff. Everyone pauses for a break, you take out a file and take a swipe. I cant tell you how much wood one chain would cut if you don't rock it.that's why when I was on a hotshot team I would carry a semi-chisel or even a skiptooth chipper chain as my spare for cutting sage brush, if you hit dirt or an unseen rock, a chipper will still cut okay, whereas a chisel bit will need to be touched up. nothing cuts big wood like a properly sharpened chisel bit though.
on a side note, as long as you take the rakers down evenly as the tooth gets shorter you can take it all to the very back of the tooth before tossing it.
Post by: b23 on November 17, 2014, 01:22:46 PM
Take the same amount off every tooth. Keeping the chain sharp is only half the battle, if you have a straight/evenly sharpend chain with the correct raker depth you will spend most your energy lifting the saw away from the log instead of pushing the saw into the cut. (Hope that makes sense, don't know how to word it).
[/quote]
I think, what you're trying to explain is how if everything is "right" with your chain, it will pull itself through the wood. Which is exactly what happens when things are done right. You shouldn't really ever have to push it through a cut, the saw should do the work, not you.
Post by: lokidog on November 17, 2014, 01:31:41 PM
Here is a link, it is currently on sale and you can always find a 20% off coupon so it would only be $32
http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-68221-8346.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-68221-8346.html)
Post by: gunrinwa on November 17, 2014, 02:01:56 PM
If you have acess to Harbor Freight, buy their cheap electric sharpener. I used to use a file and did an OK job, but this thing is way faster and much easier, just can't easily do it in the field. Just bring an extra chain and a file to do a quick touch up if you zing the dirt or a rock.
Here is a link, it is currently on sale and you can always find a 20% off coupon so it would only be $32
http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-68221-8346.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-68221-8346.html)
This is what I have. Easy to use and keeps em sharp.
Post by: HntnFsh on November 17, 2014, 02:35:00 PM
Do you use a rat tail file? I cut some really dirty logs in elk camp last year and I think it dulled the chain a bit.
No its a chain file. You have to get the right size for your chain.
Post by: lokidog on November 19, 2014, 09:16:29 AM
Post by: WoodlandShooter on November 20, 2014, 02:02:52 PM
I always thought that the ability to sharpen a chain saw was standard issue knowlege...
Post by: Jingles on November 20, 2014, 02:08:48 PM
Post by: Kittman on November 20, 2014, 02:11:28 PM
If you have acess to Harbor Freight, buy their cheap electric sharpener. I used to use a file and did an OK job, but this thing is way faster and much easier, just can't easily do it in the field. Just bring an extra chain and a file to do a quick touch up if you zing the dirt or a rock.
Here is a link, it is currently on sale and you can always find a 20% off coupon so it would only be $32
http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-68221-8346.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-68221-8346.html)
I was looking at getting this HFT chain sharpener for myself. One of the things with most of the Oregon chains I have been using is the rakers are a bent over stamping and it is nearly impossible to file to file them down with a hand file. So after a couple of sharpenings in the field these chains become worthless. Does this unit have a method to take and grind the rakers down?
Post by: JJB11B on November 20, 2014, 02:28:02 PM
Post by: kevinlisa06 on November 21, 2014, 09:33:39 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: timberfaller on November 21, 2014, 10:02:43 PM
http://www.amazon.com/Granberg-Bar-Mount-Chain-Sharpener-G-106B/dp/B0002ZY1WG/ref=sr_1_5/187-4978255-4368231?ie=UTF8&qid=1416635657&sr=8-5&keywords=oregon+chainsaw+sharpener (http://www.amazon.com/Granberg-Bar-Mount-Chain-Sharpener-G-106B/dp/B0002ZY1WG/ref=sr_1_5/187-4978255-4368231?ie=UTF8&qid=1416635657&sr=8-5&keywords=oregon+chainsaw+sharpener)
Oregon used to make one just like it. You just clamp it on the bar, set your angles and stop. Used one for years when I first started falling, carried it in my pack, back then they were only $19.95 and I smashed a few by accident!
Didn't take long to figure out, leave your stuff away from your daily falling! :chuckle:
For you who have the money, here is a great grinder, not the best BUT better then most of the others.
http://www.silveychaingrinder.com/chisel-square-grinders/razur-sharp-2 (http://www.silveychaingrinder.com/chisel-square-grinders/razur-sharp-2)
Post by: lokidog on November 22, 2014, 10:44:38 AM
If you have acess to Harbor Freight, buy their cheap electric sharpener. I used to use a file and did an OK job, but this thing is way faster and much easier, just can't easily do it in the field. Just bring an extra chain and a file to do a quick touch up if you zing the dirt or a rock.
Here is a link, it is currently on sale and you can always find a 20% off coupon so it would only be $32
http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-68221-8346.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-68221-8346.html)
I was looking at getting this HFT chain sharpener for myself. One of the things with most of the Oregon chains I have been using is the rakers are a bent over stamping and it is nearly impossible to file to file them down with a hand file. So after a couple of sharpenings in the field these chains become worthless. Does this unit have a method to take and grind the rakers down?
no
Post by: dewandgin on November 22, 2014, 10:55:31 AM