Post by: Boss .300 winmag on November 26, 2014, 11:41:34 AM
Went back to modern for the sake of hunting with all three of my kids, which was really cool seeing all them take multiple deer.
Now I want to get back into archery with that being traditional.
I will probably do this type of hunting in northern Idaho for whitals so I can still hunt modern in our area we like. Or try for multi season permit if I don't score a dink in the modern season.
Please help me with some does and don'ts in this area.
Thanks in advance. :tup:
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on November 26, 2014, 06:38:06 PM
Post by: Florida_Native on November 26, 2014, 06:44:19 PM
http://www.twistedstave.com (http://www.twistedstave.com)
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on November 26, 2014, 06:56:58 PM
Post by: dreamunelk on November 26, 2014, 06:59:31 PM
My first recommendation is to purchase an inexpensive bow and practice for a couple of months. Make sure your arrow are tuned for you bow! During the practice look at better bows. you may find that your inexpensive bow works great. Spend some time reading all the forums at tradgang.com. Especially the form threads. Lots of great info. As for poundage go lite to start with. For traditional archery it is all about form. Practice with light bow to improve form. I have many bows ( yew stick, recurve, and modern longbow and compounds), it is as bad as guns and fishing poles. I choose to hunt elk with my 55# black Widow. No special reason other than I really like it.
Shooting traditional is a lot of fun.
Post by: Cap.Silver on November 27, 2014, 04:44:27 PM
Post by: MLBowhunting on November 27, 2014, 05:07:16 PM
Post by: scotsman on November 28, 2014, 07:00:38 PM
Post by: Tree Killer on November 30, 2014, 08:24:03 AM
I have selfbows, longbows, and recurves...for hunting I have always preferred a recurve. They seem a little more smoother to draw and shoot then a longbow, but may not be quite as quiet as a longbow.
Feel free to ask questions, if we put our collective heads together we should be able to come up with an answer.
Come on over from the Dark side, may the force be with you! :tup:
Post by: boneaddict on November 30, 2014, 08:31:58 AM
Post by: RG on November 30, 2014, 08:42:39 AM
Recurves are easier to shoot well than longbows just because of the difference in hand shock during the shot. Self bows are even tougher. I'd start with a nice recurve and work into something else when you get good at it. Wood arrows are cool too but start with aluminum because they are straight and available. Carbon is a little unforgiving.
Find G. Fred Asbell's instinctive shooting books and memorize them. Then shoot a lot, I mean a lot. You have to train your brain, eye, and arm to work together. Instinctive shooting is the same process as throwing a baseball. You look at the target and your mind makes the adjustments to but the arrow or ball in the middle of the target. You don't physically calculate holdover, etc. You never see a good baseball pitcher who only practices a week before the season starts. Same with a traditional archer.
It is very rewarding if you have the interest and commitment.
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on November 30, 2014, 08:51:12 AM
Thanks for all the info posted so far. :tup:
Post by: Special T on November 30, 2014, 08:59:35 AM
Hope that is what your looking for.
Post by: scotsman on November 30, 2014, 04:07:12 PM
The best place to buy one is from Big Jim at Bigjimsbowcompany.com. In the traditional world Big Jim has a phenomenal reputation for knowledgeable service, prompt shipping and the best prices. Jim answers the phone himself and will ask questions to help him recommend the best bow for your stature, experience etc., and then he can set you up with correctly matched arrows and accessories too. He currently is advertising Bear Super Kodiak recurves brand new for $450 - $600 depending on the type of wood. Jim also makes his own custom line of bows which are very highly regarded.
If you want to stay relatively local and think a less expensive used bow might do the trick then call Ted Fry at Raptor Archery in a Hood River Oregon. Ted usually has 50 -100 used bows in stock and its worth a trip there just to see Teds museum of archery history.
Dave
Post by: hollymaster on December 03, 2014, 12:31:27 PM
Post by: Machias on December 03, 2014, 02:41:03 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 03, 2014, 04:10:40 PM
Post by: Machias on December 03, 2014, 04:14:06 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 06, 2014, 10:12:10 AM
I dont hunt with my re-curve but here is what i did. I went to Riverside Archery and told Gary I wanted to get a re-curve. They carry the inexpensive Samic Sage bows, Since i shoot LH i was able to take the LH riser and try out several different poundage's.If in the future i want a different LBS limbs they are inexpensive and easy to get. I normally shoot a compound with a release so and Apache style anchor and 45lbs limbs felt "normal" for me. There were other bows i liked better but being a LH shooter i was pretty limited as to what i could try out in the store. Ive just used it for 3d shoots and fun shooting but it does have enough poundage to shoot with. I think i spent $230 ish for a bow, stringer half doz arrows and shooting glove.
Hope that is what your looking for.
Thanks for the info Special t it was exactly what I was looking for. :tup:
Checked their web site today and was pleased at the prices. :tup:
Post by: Special T on December 06, 2014, 11:23:49 AM
Post by: scotsman on December 07, 2014, 07:44:10 PM
To see the precision and fun of traditional archery, check out this video on 10 year old Logan Blackmon.
http://youtu.be/nWbXBSwuVYI (http://youtu.be/nWbXBSwuVYI)
Post by: boneaddict on December 08, 2014, 07:20:26 AM
Does he still make the Sapphire hawk bows?
He is currently without a shop. When dust starts to fly again, there is no doubt I will be hitting him up for a 3rd piece of art. I love the two I have to death. If I could hang longbows around my house as artwork, I would his. I even occasionally kill something with them as well.
Post by: Machias on December 09, 2014, 11:54:36 AM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 10, 2014, 05:18:18 PM
What quiver do you guys use, and why?
Post by: quadrafire on December 10, 2014, 05:35:59 PM
I'm new to the game as well, But I use a hip quiver. Kinda cool to have a bow that weighs just ounces and nothing in the way. I also used a hip quiver when I hunted with a compound.
Post by: npaull on December 10, 2014, 05:51:49 PM
Start 50 lbs or less, MAX. I shoot 55 lbs by choice and I can put an arrow clean through anything smaller than an elephant no problem. There is just no reason to go heavy. I'd say 45 lbs for a starter bow. The problem with heavy bows is that they make it very hard to develop consistent form because your whole body is quivering after a few arrows trying just to draw the damn thing.
Shoot a lot, and start close - ridiculously close. Like five yards away. Remember - all traditional bows are mechanically perfect. In other words, if a machine were drawing it back and releasing it, the arrows would all hit the same place every time. There are only two variables - your bow hand and your anchor point. The key is to get consistent form with every shot.
I'd expect to limit yourself to 15 or so yards your first season, assuming several months of practice before the season. I am still maxed out at about 20 yards for most hunting circumstances.
Be patient. Have fun.
Post by: Hornseeker on December 17, 2014, 09:12:00 AM
What I liked best about what he said was the "start close-ridiculously close"... if you aren't hitting a golf ball sized spot every shot at 5 yards, you really have no reason to back up from the target... though you will, cause its fun! But seriously, starting off lightweight.... even 35 pounds, is EXTREMELY useful in developing your form. Maintaining a consistent grip and stable bow arm along with an absolutely Consistent anchor point is vital to being effective with a traditional bow. When those things move... its like changing the position of your rear or front sight every shot on your rifle.. just dont work.
Good Luck, its FUN!!! And challenging!!
If you look at tradtech.com you will see a lot of sweet options for starter bows with exchangeable limbs... you can buy one with 35-40 pound limbs then buy a 55# set for hunting once you get your shooting worked out!
Love this Bow...
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/tradtech-apex-traditional-bow-package.html (http://www.lancasterarchery.com/tradtech-apex-traditional-bow-package.html)
Post by: Machias on December 17, 2014, 10:57:52 AM
Post by: Special T on December 17, 2014, 01:49:06 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 17, 2014, 02:01:02 PM
I would Add That Silver Arrow Bowmen is having a Trad Shoot at the end of Jan 31-feb1 and there will be all kinds of trad gear to see and try out. :twocents:
Looks like a really nice club they have there. :tup:
Last photo page has a picture with a tractor on its side. I know it's easy to do since I've been on them since I was a kid, but he do that? :dunno:
Post by: Special T on December 17, 2014, 03:01:41 PM
Unfortunatly Charlie left us at the young age of 45 a few years ago. Many at the club miss him, his jokes and pranks. Great Guy and awesome father... He died of of a blood clot in his sleep. Not very exciting or some one who could ride a wheelie on ANYTHING farther than i have seen. :'(
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 17, 2014, 06:07:52 PM
I might check out the club some day, I work weekends so won't make the shoot.
Plus like like to learn by doing stuff on my own, not that I wouldn't mind some coaching, just don't really like large crowds as I'm doing it.
Thanks.
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 17, 2014, 06:38:57 PM
Post by: Special T on December 17, 2014, 06:59:20 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 17, 2014, 07:01:50 PM
Riverside Archery is Just SW of the intersection of SR536 (old memorial hwy) and Avon Allen less than an 1/8 mile on the South side of the road. ( West Mount Vernon) :tup:
Yep I have bought stuff there before when I was bow hunting. :tup:
Post by: scotsman on December 17, 2014, 09:03:24 PM
Here is a segment of a video I made about matching arrows and setting brace height / nock point. The distance is about 30 yards.
http://youtu.be/OofNpoc9lU8 (http://youtu.be/OofNpoc9lU8)
Post by: Hornseeker on December 18, 2014, 02:19:13 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 18, 2014, 03:15:42 PM
Post by: Special T on December 18, 2014, 03:36:20 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 18, 2014, 09:00:20 PM
Jason @ riverside likes to shoot Trad. Not the mention there are several club members that do as well.
Well my wife took me to Riverside wood woop Santa was an early show for me this year. :archery_smiley:
Ended up getting the Samic Sage Recurve with 40# limbs, and all the goodies to shoot with.
Jason was really helpful on equipment questions, and gear setup. :tup:
Now I just need to start shooting and get it all in sync. :drool:
Thanks for all the advice, and knowledge from everyone, but I'm sure I'll just ask more questions now. :chuckle:
Post by: quadrafire on December 18, 2014, 09:03:58 PM
Post by: Special T on December 18, 2014, 09:39:25 PM
Post by: scotsman on December 19, 2014, 09:29:40 AM
If you have some spare time over the holidays and want to fling some arras send me a PM. I'd like to meet you and maybe hoist a frosty too.
Post by: Special T on December 19, 2014, 10:31:13 AM
Club is stupid cheep for what you get $2 a person A WHOLE DAY! Flat range and 50 target walk though course! Yearly memberships is CHEEP! Form is on the website Fill out staple check to form drop in drop box and your a member. $10 initiation $30 single $40 FAMILY membership!
Post by: boneaddict on December 19, 2014, 10:36:46 AM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 20, 2014, 08:37:10 AM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 21, 2014, 10:47:49 AM
Tuning a Trad bow and arrows is just as important as with a compound. However a trad bow is usually more tolerant and forgiving IF the archer has a good consistent form. As mentioned previously a solid predictable anchor and steady follow through is vital.
Here is a segment of a video I made about matching arrows and setting brace height / nock point. The distance is about 30 yards.
http://youtu.be/OofNpoc9lU8 (http://youtu.be/OofNpoc9lU8)
It says video is private. :dunno:
Post by: scotsman on December 22, 2014, 08:29:04 AM
http://youtu.be/OofNpoc9lU8 (http://youtu.be/OofNpoc9lU8)
Post by: Tracker0721 on December 22, 2014, 08:40:29 AM
That samick is a good bow, I know quite a few guys who have killed plenty with them. And 45lbs is plenty to kill any big game in N. America. You made a great choice! Welcome to the traditional side!
Post by: whacker1 on December 22, 2014, 09:00:25 AM
These are some very nice bows made in Spokane area
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 24, 2014, 03:29:24 PM
Amazing how you can feel the string get stretched more and more when you shoot it.
Post by: scotsman on December 24, 2014, 06:57:43 PM
Conversely,when shooting a 0% letoff stickbow your brain feels the pressure on your arm / shoulder and can sense how that will thrust the arrow. Subsequently your eyes will see the trajectory and send that information back to your brain. After enough repetitions your brain will be able to predict the trajectory of the next arrow. No sight necessary - just basic hand / eye coordination. (That's why bright fletchings are recommended - if you can't see the arrow flight you can't learn the trajectory)
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 24, 2014, 07:18:38 PM
Post by: TONTO on December 24, 2014, 07:25:26 PM
That feeling of 'the string stretching' is your brain starting to link the power of the bow to the thrust of the string on the arrow. When you shoot a compound the letoff prevents your brain from automatically sensing how much power is applied to the arrow. Hence the need for a sight.:yeah: I know there is nothing traditional about lighted nocks, but they are kinda fun to shoot anyhow, and will deffinately help you pick up the mental trajectory. With these short days I like to stick a light, I use a Brad's lures wazzit nock off lighted spin glow, and put it in an empty milk carton. Then I shoot it with judo tipped iluminocks. It's a blast since I don't have sights I only have to see the milk jug. I don't hunt wih them but are great for practice sessions, the tracer affect realy helps.
Conversely,when shooting a 0% letoff stickbow your brain feels the pressure on your arm / shoulder and can sense how that will thrust the arrow. Subsequently your eyes will see the trajectory and send that information to your brain. After enough repetitions your brain will be able to predict the trajectory of the next arrow. No sight necessary - just basic hand / eye coordination. (That's why bright fletchings are recommended - if you can't see the arrow flight you can't learn the trajectory)
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 25, 2014, 02:28:27 PM
Just missed him at 35 yds, shot a little low and left, but he almost got it when he ran that way after the arrow skipped. :chuckle:
Post by: Tracker0721 on December 25, 2014, 04:10:20 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 25, 2014, 04:26:18 PM
35yds! That's some Saxton Pope stuff. Gotta be like Ishi man, creep to within 10yds. Still awesome that you got a shot! I can't wait to chase grouse again! I hit a dove at 15yards with my longbow but there wasn't enough meat to convince me it was worth risking an arrow for another.
Ishi man could have just slit their throats. :chuckle:
Ishi Man Last of His Tribe, have you read it? I have, good book. :tup:
Didn't you use a judo tip on the dove?
Post by: Tracker0721 on December 25, 2014, 05:46:39 PM
And no that was a field point with a adder point behind it. Took the head of that dove clean off almost.
Post by: scotsman on December 25, 2014, 08:55:37 PM
Post by: Tracker0721 on December 26, 2014, 06:39:27 AM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 26, 2014, 07:18:51 AM
A tip 'o the hat to mr Boss 300. If you can skip an arrow under a 35 yard grouse after just three days of practice you have what takes. Focus on the individual feather (or hair) you want to hit, get a consistent solid anchor and follow through. Be careful not to drop your bow arm when you release - try to get in the habit of not moving either your anchor hand or bow hand until,the arrow hits the target.
I've put a lot of marbles down range with a wrist rocket, maybe that is helping me since they have no sights. :dunno: :chuckle:
Post by: scotsman on December 26, 2014, 07:12:55 PM
I'll respectfully take exception to Trackers input about moving the release hand backwards. In theory, yes, but in reality I have seen many new archers overemphasize the hand movement which can lead to Bad habits. Most of the people you see using dramatic release hand movement are target archers with light draw weight bows, 35 pounds or less. Their string doesn't have enough power to release cleanly so they exaggerate rearward hand movement. Most hunting weight bowstrings can cleanly pull out of the fingers without making a big procedure.
For example, Refer back to my video a few threads above; note that I'm shooting bare shafts. Bare shafts will dramatically increase any flaw in form; a shot that would be 2" off target at 30 yards with a fletched shaft will be a at least a foot off target with bare shaft.
Fast forward to my three shots and watch my release hand. The first Shot had very little movement of the release hand and hits the tennis ball. The second shot had excessive movement of the release Hand.... The third shot little movement. The 2nd shot missed, the 3rd shot was real close. I knew the second shot was bad by the 'feel' of the release and it hit 9" to the right of the tennis ball... I think you could see by my expression after the second shot I knew it was bad.
Expanding on that thought I will stick by my recommendation that for hunting height bows, hold your form until the arrow hits the target.
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 26, 2014, 07:21:28 PM
Mom didn't like the old cork gun in the butt with mud plugs while bent over in the garden. :nono:
Wrist rocket is something I picked up as an adult, fun shooting them with marbles. :tup:
Post by: Tracker0721 on December 26, 2014, 09:10:06 PM
And Scotsman I didn't even think about that. With my 63lb recurve I never needed to worry about touching my ear but now that I have a 47lb longbow it feels necessary to do complete follow through. So Yes, I spoke without thinking it through, holding the form would be benificial to a new hunter. Better then trying to remember every step some guy online told you to complete in order to get an arrow down range haha
Post by: ImMrBill on December 29, 2014, 06:17:15 PM
Post by: Special T on December 29, 2014, 06:44:10 PM
Boss it sound like it going good! See you at the Club some time!
Post by: lokidog on December 29, 2014, 07:58:02 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 29, 2014, 08:09:58 PM
Hey Boss, I've got a good place for some close range deer bowhunting... I'll trade for a trip to your modern area with you. 8)Try for the multisesson permit then we can scout it in September before modern and might get a shot then, or come back foe modern. :tup:
Post by: Payne on December 30, 2014, 02:09:19 PM
I just recently picked up a Damon Howatt Hunter #44 @28 used for 180 bucks. The thing is a piece of art and is in almost perfect shape (not sure how old it is) and I already understand why bows are as bad as guns.
Thanks to everyone's info as well!
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 30, 2014, 02:27:37 PM
Post by: Tracker0721 on December 30, 2014, 02:29:39 PM
Post by: D-Rock425 on December 30, 2014, 07:10:08 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 30, 2014, 07:36:08 PM
Post by: D-Rock425 on December 31, 2014, 09:29:48 AM
What's stoping you? :dunno:i dont like to miss.
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 31, 2014, 09:30:44 AM
What's stoping you? :dunno:i dont like to miss.
Nothing ventured nothing gained. :chuckle:
Post by: scotsman on December 31, 2014, 07:09:02 PM
Post by: lokidog on December 31, 2014, 07:37:18 PM
Hmm..... People have been feeding their families with compound bows for what, 20 years? And feeding their families with stickbows for the previous 5,000 years.... It just takes practice.
A few more than 20, my first was 36 years ago. Some of us just have too many "hobbies" to put enough time into just one. ;)
Post by: Payne on January 01, 2015, 03:21:43 PM
Post by: Tree Killer on January 04, 2015, 10:17:05 AM
What's stoping you? :dunno:i dont like to miss.
Why would you miss? If I get an animal within my limited range...he's in serious danger of having the air let out of him!
Really nice to see some new folks falling in love with the simple weapons! :tup:
Post by: huntnnw on January 14, 2015, 01:13:23 AM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on January 14, 2015, 03:31:08 PM
Post by: Encore 280 on January 14, 2015, 05:27:33 PM
Hmm..... People have been feeding their families with compound bows for what, 20 years? And feeding their families with stickbows for the previous 5,000 years.... It just takes practice.
The first time I saw a compound bow was back around 1962 or 63 somewhere around there. I remember thinking about how small and weird it looked! A neighbor guy was a bow hunter and his elk bugle was a piece of pike pole! Can't remember if he ever got an elk or not. This was down in Oregon.
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on January 21, 2015, 07:31:17 PM
So what arrows are you shooting out of the samic?
Easton carbon ion 500 7.3 GPI.
Post by: Grasshopper on January 23, 2015, 05:48:09 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on January 23, 2015, 06:52:17 PM
Post by: WAnoob on February 10, 2015, 10:16:33 PM
Randy
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on February 10, 2015, 10:28:08 PM
Post by: WAnoob on February 10, 2015, 10:43:10 PM
Post by: elk247 on February 10, 2015, 11:17:07 PM
Post by: SGTDuffman on February 18, 2015, 04:30:16 PM
You may also be able to go to a range or a shoot and try out some other peoples stuff to see if you'd prefer recurve or longbow. Cabelas has been pretty forgiving about handling and shooting some of their different stuff, but it's not usually a real fair comparison because the arrows aren't set up right for the bows and you may get stuck comparing a 60lb longbow to a 40lb recurve or something. I had a recurve for a few years, but decided it didn't scratch my traditional itch, and switched to a longbow. It just feels more right than the recurve did, I don't have any other way to put it.
It takes a ton of commitment to get and stay good with a traditional bow though. I've only been shooting traditional stuff for about 5 years off and on. Life always intrudes and I can't commit the time I feel I need to to maintain the skills, and end up shooting my compound more, because it is much more forgiving of little breaks between practice. If I can't shoot the compound for a few weeks, it's no big deal, it's got sights to help me. If I don't shoot the longbow for a few weeks, muscle memory fades.
Post by: Special T on February 19, 2015, 10:30:37 AM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on September 10, 2015, 01:29:50 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on September 10, 2015, 06:56:02 PM
I do know they need to be cutting on contact ones. ;)
Post by: Tracker0721 on September 10, 2015, 07:58:03 PM
Or go for zwickey, ACE, eh, pretty much if the company started the game and are still in then their a good choice. I found ACE to re sharpen the easiest but a zwickey Eskimo on a cedar shaft is gold
Post by: Tracker0721 on September 10, 2015, 07:59:13 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on September 10, 2015, 08:21:42 PM
Aim small miss small on grouse. :chuckle: I want to get one so bad I'm physicking myself out on them I believe. :bash:
Post by: Tracker0721 on September 10, 2015, 08:26:09 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on September 10, 2015, 08:35:09 PM
Simmons has screw ons in all weights. Same with zwickey
Thanks a lot. :tup:
Post by: scotsman on September 15, 2015, 07:12:48 PM
Another very good broadhead for traditional bows are the Magnus Stingers. They are available in two or 4 blades with relight ranges from 100 to 175 grains. They fly like field points - I got my last Muley at 50 yards (confirmed with my compound toting buddys' rangefinder) with 52# longbow shooting a Magnus 4 blade mounted on an Easton 2016 aluminum shaft.
Post by: predatorG on September 19, 2015, 01:00:31 PM
Another very good broadhead for traditional bows are the Magnus Stingers. They are available in two or 4 blades with relight ranges from 100 to 175 grains. They fly like field points - I got my last Muley at 50 yards (confirmed with my compound toting buddys' rangefinder) with 52# longbow shooting a Magnus 4 blade mounted on an Easton 2016 aluminum shaft.
That's impressive :tup:
This thread is great because I'm considering going traditional as well. So thanks alot :tup:
Post by: boneaddict on September 19, 2015, 01:04:42 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on September 19, 2015, 01:15:47 PM
Post by: TheHunt on September 19, 2015, 02:05:40 PM
Is it based on draw length?
Post by: TONTO on September 20, 2015, 08:07:46 AM
Post by: rasbo on September 20, 2015, 08:44:47 AM
Post by: predatorG on September 20, 2015, 02:34:51 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on September 20, 2015, 03:32:32 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on September 20, 2015, 03:36:15 PM
Post by: lokidog on September 20, 2015, 06:59:56 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on September 20, 2015, 07:08:01 PM
If I don't get one during the modern east side Loki I will come out to the island and put one in a deer and show you how good they are. :chuckle:
Post by: jdb on September 20, 2015, 07:20:43 PM
I'm gonna try these blades, and see how they fly with my set up.i shooting a samick recurve and they fly great for me
Post by: boneaddict on September 21, 2015, 04:58:01 AM
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv47%2Fboneaddict%2Fdougmoose.jpg&hash=4a9b66c349ea35fc0506587b23589d3b428d7fa6)
Post by: rasbo on September 21, 2015, 05:28:12 AM
Post by: scotsman on September 21, 2015, 08:03:43 AM
All current shaft selection charts are all calculated for compound bows - don't go by those charts. Contact a true traditional bow show like Raptor archery in Hood River Oregon for arrow recommendations.
Aluminum arrows are a lot more forgiving of spine ranges than carbon. when first tuning one of my bows I always use aluminum for the baseline and then mess with carbons. When finally tuned (length, point weight, insert weight, fletched, bare shaft, etc ) I get great results with carbon but you need to really want to spend a couple of hours - or days to get them right. Conversely if you can find one of the old (pre 1980's ) Easton arrow charts you can just go by the chart first time.
I looked it up - this is the chart you want.
I find that I can shoot 2016 or 2018 out of all my longbows and recurves. My draw weights average 50 - 54#and arrow length is 28 1/4.
'
Post by: Tracker0721 on September 21, 2015, 12:56:52 PM
Post by: scotsman on September 21, 2015, 01:28:03 PM
Yep, the Three Rivers calculator is good too. Be sure to pay attention centershot and / or side plate thickness.
Post by: HankC on September 29, 2015, 07:02:20 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on September 29, 2015, 08:09:30 PM
Getting carbons to fly well from stick bows can be tricky. Almost all carbons recommended by shops will be too stiff because the arrow needs to flex correctly around the riser. Compound bows with full centershot and trigger release need stiff arrows .... Google 'Arrow Paradox'.
All current shaft selection charts are all calculated for compound bows - don't go by those charts. Contact a true traditional bow show like Raptor archery in Hood River Oregon for arrow recommendations.
Aluminum arrows are a lot more forgiving of spine ranges than carbon. when first tuning one of my bows I always use aluminum for the baseline and then mess with carbons. When finally tuned (length, point weight, insert weight, fletched, bare shaft, etc ) I get great results with carbon but you need to really want to spend a couple of hours - or days to get them right. Conversely if you can find one of the old (pre 1980's ) Easton arrow charts you can just go by the chart first time.
I looked it up - this is the chart you want.
I find that I can shoot 2016 or 2018 out of all my longbows and recurves. My draw weights average 50 - 54#and arrow length is 28 1/4.
'
This chart doesn't make sense to me, what are the numbers mean? I know what he poundage ones are, and length.
Post by: quadrafire on September 30, 2015, 09:41:17 AM
Post by: scotsman on September 30, 2015, 08:31:32 PM
Yep, that chart iis the Easton chart for aluminum arrows from a traditional bow. The first two digits of each size is the diameter and the second two digits is the wall thickness. For example a 2016 has a diameter of 20/64 and .016 wall thickness.
When shooting an arrow with broadhead or bow with fast flite type string you might want to move up one shaft size.