Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: eastsidemallard74 on January 26, 2015, 11:05:34 AM
-
So, here's the skinny. I'm not real good at cleaning my shotgun. I have a Browning Gold hunter. I't about 7 yrs old. Saturday while out hunting we were taking some long draws at the geese/ducks. I wanted to change my choke, to an extended choke. Than I realized ,this damn things stuck. My question is -
Can I soak it in wd-40 , or another chemical? I have the camo pattern on my gun, which I believe is a sticker like a heated on pattern(I don't know how to explain it)
Any help would be appreciated
-
WD-40 won't hurt your finish. Soak away.
-
WD-40 won't hurt your finish. Soak away.
Thanks, thats what I was wondering
-
Let's hope it's stuck and not "sprung". I had an Improved Modified get "sprung" with two shots of HeviShot. It had just enough constriction (before the shots) to get expanded out.
-
Let's hope it's stuck and not "sprung". I had an Improved Modified get "sprung" with two shots of HeviShot. It had just enough constriction (before the shots) to get expanded out.
What do mean by sprung?
-
The best stuff I've found is Kroil, works great. :tup: A lot better than WD40.
-
The best stuff I've found is Kroil, works great. :tup: A lot better than WD40.
Can yo buy Kroil anywhere, I live in Moses, and don't have a ton of places to shop, Lowes,Wally World,Home Depot.
-
What about slightly heating the outside of the barrel, like with a propane heater? The metal should expand and loosen up the choke
-
I did this on my first shotgun. I would suggest you use a penetrating oil. Putting a little heat would not hurt either.
Mine was welded on with crud. But I got it out and had to ping it with a chisel and hammer. I ruined that choke but I put a pattern master on it which I did not care anymore about the old one.
-
the best thing i've found for freeing up corroded stuff is 50/50 atf&acetone don't know what it would do to finish though.
-
Let's hope it's stuck and not "sprung". I had an Improved Modified get "sprung" with two shots of HeviShot. It had just enough constriction (before the shots) to get expanded out.
What do mean by sprung?
Shooting steel or hevi thru a too constricted choke and having it enlarged. That be "sprung" and it makes it tough to remove the choke. In a rifle barrel this would be similar to "ringing" the barrel with an obstruction.
-
Yep you need cutting torches, grinders, hack saws, big hammers and chisels. Get er dun
Carl
-
The best stuff I've found is Kroil, works great. :tup: A lot better than WD40.
Can yo buy Kroil anywhere, I live in Moses, and don't have a ton of places to shop, Lowes,Wally World,Home Depot.
I got mine at a NAPA Auto Parts store so maybe any auto parts place plus Lowes and HD might have it also.
I don't know that I'd be heating a gun barrel with a torch, you'll change the temper then maybe end up being in more trouble afterwards.
Just be patient if you use the Kroil or anything else. Spray it and let it set a while then maybe tap it with a plastic mallet or screwdriver handle to loosen things up.
-
Agree with everything above. A good soak in Kroil first, then a little heat from a crack torch, carefully..if that doesn't work, insert your choke wrench and give it a couple light raps, just enough to" spread" the threads a little and unlocking the fit. Have fixed dozens of stuck chokes using this process over the years.
-
I would soak in Kroil. I run full chokes with steel in several of my shotguns for waterfowl. The one I use the most, I replace the choke every year. The others as needed, I have also used "Liquid Wrench" which can be found at almost any hardware store.
-
Small metal can,with 3 inches or so of kroil in it,hang the gun with the barrell down in the can,and leave it for a week,For heat I would shoot a box of cheap lead 8 shot shells through it fast,and then get after the choke with the choke wrench,twist until it stops and then screw it back in,basically what your going to do is recut the threads with the old threads,If you manage to get it out make sure to grease the thing on regular occasion from here on out,the next time you may find yourself with a fixed choked barrell forever.My buddy made this very same mistake with a ruger red label over/under the gunsmith who refinished it couldn't get his out and now it's fixed imp cyl and modified.As a welder I can say there is another option with cold,you could head to the welding store and get a thermos of liquid nitrogen and freeze the choke from inside the barrell with a qtip on a stick,there are a lot of things we get unstuck at work that are similar,we use either liqud nitrogen or Ice,you could preform a cube of ice with a tube of same inside diameter as your choke and send it to the muzzle from the breech,the trick is to wait just the right length of time,if you wait to long the outside will constrict as well and put you back at square one.
-
Thanks for all the advice, I'm not too big on trying the heat to the gun. Don't want to do too much and damage the camo or the barrel itself. It sounds like kroil is gonna be the winner. Maybe even a few more cleans a year also. This was one of the first times I've actually cleaned it 2/3 times, but never took the choke out. And I've had more problems with it jamming thi year.
-
Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison test.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Penetrating oil ......... Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in stores. I doubt if this brew will harm the bluing, but you might want to try it on a spot normally hidden by the stock first.
For heat, a HarborFreight tools heat gun is much safer than a propane torch. You can get them for under $15.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html)
What you want is a temperature differential between the choke tube and the barrel. I would crush up an ice cube and wrap the ice in a small rag that will fit inside the choke tube. Then, heat the outside of the barrel using the heat gun. Before the heat gets to the choke tube, try to remove the tube by turning it both ways alternately. You'll get it.
-
"The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone."
Interesting, I've never heard or read of such. I'll have to try it in place of Kroil next time it's needed.
-
Hammer it works very well,actually it's been reported that it's a better brew by many a millwright.If you do a search for "Ed's Red Bore cleaner" a similar recipe will come up for cleaning rifle bores,it's a version of milspec barrell cleaner that was used by the military in WW2.I mixed up a batch and found it to be an equal to hoppes 9 if not better.There are about three different things you can add to the mix for different purposes(copper removal,and long term storage are the two that come to mind right now)
"The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone."
Interesting, I've never heard or read of such. I'll have to try it in place of Kroil next time it's needed.
-
Eastside, I have some Ed's Red I could spare if you want to soak in that. PM me with your phone if you're interested.