Hunting Washington Forum
Big Game Hunting => Bow Hunting => Topic started by: BABackcountryBwhntr on February 11, 2015, 05:59:12 PM
-
Ok here we go- I wanted to touch base with you guys on somethings that have helped me with my shooting. I have been Bowhunting 19 years and competitively shooting for 15. I was lucky enough to be buddies with some world class target shooters and be taught by and learn from them. The difference in a guy that hunts compared to a skilled shooter that hunts can be very drastic. Once you fine tune your shooting to a different level the hunting aspect become much easier. For me its about getting the shot.. once that happens you can put the meat in the freezer as far as I am concerned. Archery is all about consistency... the farther out the target is, the more dialed and consistent you must be in order to shoot well. With the being said -
Proper form- This can be debated to a certain extent if one wants.. but if you read any new manuals on shooting, or watch any of the top target shooters in the world.. its all basically the same with very very little exception.
I shoot with a slightly open stance... this allows you the most solid base you can and a solid foundation is paramount for good shooting. My bow arm is fully extended, not locked, but about as close to that as you can get. The reason for that is simple. It allows the bone structure in your arm to carry the weight of the bow and gives you the most stable platform you can for shooting. If you are shooting with a bent elbow, the forearm muscles are now doing the majority of the work holding the bow and you are simply not as stable. The grip on the bow is also very important, done correctly it minimizes torque and allows for better shot execution and stability. A correct grip is one where the knuckles are at a 45 degree angle from the riser with the grip resting in the area between your thumb and first finger. This ensures the bones of the arm are aligned correctly behind the force of the bow. When shooting the shoulders should be in level both front and rear, basically you should be able to draw a "T" through your body. On up or down hill shots you want to bend at the waist to maintain this proper alignment.
Once your from and grip is spot on, you want to work on executing the shot. Aiming is a big part of this. Most shooter aim at the desired target. They focus intently on the spot , dot or whatever it is they are trying to hit. The issue with that is that the conscious mind can only do one action at a time. If you are focused on shooting the shot then you can not also focus on aiming. The correct way to aim is to actually aim "through" the target instead of focusing on it. You wan to stare through it so to speak and not intently focus on if the pin is exactly on spot or not. If you are doing this your mind will automatically bring the pin back into the spot you are aiming. You also do not need to focus on if the pin is exactly on the spot, it is fine if it is "floating" in the area you want to hit, if you are relaxed and focusing on aiming "through the shot" you can then execute a sub conscious release. Target shooters shoot what is called "back tension" and it is the proper way to shoot a a shot, as I said your mind can only focus on one thing consciously at a time, so its either aiming or "triggering the shot" shooting back tension allows you to focus only on the aiming aspect of the shot. The bow goes off as a total surprise while you are fixated on aiming. To achieve this, you use your back muscles contracting to trigger the shot. With a standard caliper release this is done by placing your finger around the trigger ( but not hitting it) at this point your are focused in aiming at the target. You start to squeeze your shoulder blades together and then internal rotation allows the finger on the trigger to add pressure and make the shot happen. The shot will surprise you ,when you are aiming try to make your release elbow touch your ear at full draw. That motion contracts the shoulder blades and makes the shot happen. If done properly you release hand with fall back behind your ear as the pressure is released from the shot.
95% of bowhunters trigger the release by "punching" it. if you watch the index finger is usually above the trigger then it is triggered once your mind says "shoot". if you are shooting it properly your finger should never move once it is in contact with the trigger itself. You want to get your first knuckle around the trigger to ensure good contact to execute the sub conscious shot. I suggest trying this at first on a blank bale or target.. this takes out the minds urge to say "shoot' when the pin hits the intended target. You will notice a drastic improvement in your shooting if you can master this. not only will you hold steadier as you now have tension in the front and back of the bow ( think of a boat anchored) you can achieve a a 100% focused shot just on aiming. The follow through is much smoother and it lessens the chance of torque or dropping the bow arm because the shot is a surprise instead of consciously triggered.
This is a very simple starting point and I can go into more details if anyone wants a more in depth explanation. I would gladly meet up with anyone and shoot with them and or help them in anyway I can.
-
Thank you for sharing, I just got a bow this last July and I have been practicing a lot.
And there was always some stuff that I wondered about. And I after I read your write up, you answered them all. I will use these tips next time i'm at the range. :tup:
-
Great information! Keep them coming :tup:
-
Glad to help.. like I said this is a basic write up.. I can go more in depth.
-
Thanks for the info. Good reading and helpful hints.
:tup:
-
thanks I've been struggling with release (caliper style). I'll try these tips once I get my indoors target.
I also struggle to find the perfect front elbow position. I can't lock out my elbow (missing about 10 degrees) so I'm actively extending to my full position but sometimes that causes me to punch the bow after the shot rather than let it rotate over your hand.
-
What do you recommend for anchor point? I have found that knuckle behind my ear is most consistent however knuckle to jaw gives me better elbow alignment and more range of motion for shoulder blade squeeze. Incorporating peep housing centered around sight housing prior to release and bubble level.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Everyone anchor is a bit different. The key is finding something and being consistent with it. ConsistenCy is the name of the game .
-
Is this Jim B.? Thanks for the tips. If it is you, I watched the video with your daughter just yesterday.
-
Everyone anchor is a bit different. The key is finding something and being consistent with it. ConsistenCy is the name of the game .
re: punching the trigger." get your first knuckle around the trigger to ensure good contact to execute the sub conscious shot" Are you saying instead of using the finger tip because that creates the punch?
-
Bare bale shooting is a great way to work on form but switching back to putting the pin back on the"x" is where I struggle. Managing your pin float, any tips on that?
-
:tup: Great information! Never to old to get better! Thanks for sharing and keep it coming.
-
The correct way to aim is to actually aim "through" the target instead of focusing on it. You wan to stare through it so to speak and not intently focus on if the pin is exactly on spot or not. If you are doing this your mind will automatically bring the pin back into the spot you are aiming. You also do not need to focus on if the pin is exactly on the spot, it is fine if it is "floating" in the area you want to hit, if you are relaxed and focusing on aiming "through the shot" you can then execute a sub conscious release.
:yeah:
One of the most important things I learned, don't try to focus on correcting your aim, let it happen. If you are consciously attempting to adjust, you are actually fighting your "muscle memory" and over-correcting.
-
Is this Jim B.? Thanks for the tips. If it is you, I watched
the video with your daughter just yesterday.
No I'm not jim.
-
Everyone anchor is a bit different. The key is finding something and being consistent with it. ConsistenCy is the name of the game .
re: punching the trigger." get your first knuckle around the trigger to ensure good contact to execute the sub conscious shot" Are you saying instead of using the finger tip because that creates the punch?
Yes because you have to make the release shoot.. so trigger it.. if yiu have more contact you can then let the back muscles contract and sub consciously trigger the shot.
-
Bare bale shooting is a great way to work on form but switching back to putting the pin back on the"x" is where I struggle. Managing your pin float, any tips on that?
Yes buy a tru ball sweet spot release. I hunt with one. It's a true back tension with a safety.
-
I'm really not about back tension release for hunting. Draw length bow tune, good broad head flight are critical.consistent anchor point iskey.eyes closed find a consist an anchor then open your eye and set your peep hieght. Drawing level is key when shooting up orDown hill. Get drawn early enough to settle into your shot and don't try to peak the shot ( ie followthrough). As far as grip I've found the newer bows really are grip sensitive I've found that just settling the fingers flat against the front of the riser without forse. Shot from all positions and slip arrows through gaps and debris that's real life .one other thing is to remember the vitals lower half and mid body lungs a elk every time ,sometimes guys try to get tight to the pocket and end up hitting shoulder,there no reason to hold so tight. . I hope some of this helps you guys out .perfect shots are hard to come by make it happen with confidence and practice so when it happens your arrow will find its mark.
-
I'm really not about back tension release for hunting. Draw length bow tune, good broad head flight are critical.consistent anchor point iskey.eyes closed find a consist an anchor then open your eye and set your peep hieght. Drawing level is key when shooting up orDown hill. Get drawn early enough to settle into your shot and don't try to peak the shot ( ie followthrough). As far as grip I've found the newer bows really are grip sensitive I've found that just settling the fingers flat against the front of the riser without forse. Shot from all positions and slip arrows through gaps and debris that's real life .one other thing is to remember the vitals lower half and mid body lungs a elk every time ,sometimes guys try to get tight to the pocket and end up hitting shoulder,there no reason to hold so tight. . I hope some of this helps you guys out .perfect shots are hard to come by make it happen with confidence and practice so when it happens your arrow will find its mark.
back tension cures target panic, which is basically the same as buck fever. You have no choice but to remain mentally calm while shooting one.
-
I'm really not about back tension release for hunting. Draw length bow tune, good broad head flight are critical.consistent anchor point iskey.eyes closed find a consist an anchor then open your eye and set your peep hieght. Drawing level is key when shooting up orDown hill. Get drawn early enough to settle into your shot and don't try to peak the shot ( ie followthrough). As far as grip I've found the newer bows really are grip sensitive I've found that just settling the fingers flat against the front of the riser without forse. Shot from all positions and slip arrows through gaps and debris that's real life .one other thing is to remember the vitals lower half and mid body lungs a elk every time ,sometimes guys try to get tight to the pocket and end up hitting shoulder,there no reason to hold so tight. . I hope some of this helps you guys out .perfect shots are hard to come by make it happen with confidence and practice so when it happens your arrow will find its mark.
back tension cures target panic, which is basically the same as buck fever. You have no choice but to remain mentally calm while shooting one.
Unless you start to tense up and end up ripping it off. You can cheat any release you shoot, some are just easier than others
-
Confidence and familiarity cure buck fever . I'm just saying in the moment a hook release or back tension release can give on trouble . I've killed 25 plus elk with a bow and never had issues using a caliper finger release.
-
Working on the practice practice bit, I try to shoot at least every weekend
-
Confidence and familiarity cure buck fever . I'm just saying in the moment a hook release or back tension release can give on trouble . I've killed 25 plus elk with a bow and never had issues using a caliper finger release.
I have killed my share as well and many with a trigger never said there is anything wrong with them. I still prefer a target style release.
-
I'm really not about back tension release for hunting. Draw length bow tune, good broad head flight are critical.consistent anchor point iskey.eyes closed find a consist an anchor then open your eye and set your peep hieght. Drawing level is key when shooting up orDown hill. Get drawn early enough to settle into your shot and don't try to peak the shot ( ie followthrough). As far as grip I've found the newer bows really are grip sensitive I've found that just settling the fingers flat against the front of the riser without forse. Shot from all positions and slip arrows through gaps and debris that's real life .one other thing is to remember the vitals lower half and mid body lungs a elk every time ,sometimes guys try to get tight to the pocket and end up hitting shoulder,there no reason to hold so tight. . I hope some of this helps you guys out .perfect shots are hard to come by make it happen with confidence and practice so when it happens your arrow will find its mark.
back tension cures target panic, which is basically the same as buck fever. You have no choice but to remain mentally calm while shooting one.
Unless you start to tense up and end up ripping it off. You can cheat any release you shoot, some are just easier than others
technically yes, that is correct. I have yet however, to see someone really cheat a BT release. I have taught more then a few guys with severe target panic how to shoot one. It would take some epic stuff to do that with one for sure,
-
Google Terry wunderle and read the articles he has contributed to north American whitetail. Has helped me work out some of my kinks in my form but it's a works in progress
-
Confidence and familiarity cure buck fever . I'm just saying in the moment a hook release or back tension release can give on trouble . I've killed 25 plus elk with a bow and never had issues using a caliper finger release.
I have killed my share as well and many with a trigger never said there is anything wrong with them. I still prefer a target style release.
I can back pressure release with a caliper finger release. Not sure if I even do it when target shooting. I think it's subconscious and I don't even realize it. I have shot around 100 arrows this week. It does help with accuracy. I do want to try the different style of release. Thanks for the write up!
-
Confidence and familiarity cure buck fever . I'm just saying in the moment a hook release or back tension release can give on trouble . I've killed 25 plus elk with a bow and never had issues using a caliper finger release.
I have killed my share as well and many with a trigger never said there is anything wrong with them. I still prefer a target style release.
I can back pressure release with a caliper finger release. Not sure if I even do it when target shooting. I think it's subconscious and I don't even realize it. I have shot around 100 arrows this week. It does help with accuracy. I do want to try the different style of release. Thanks for the write up!
yes you can, that is how I shot mine as well, but with a trigger you can still punch it, whereas a back tension is 20x harder to achieve that with. which is why I hunt with one as well.