Hunting Washington Forum
Big Game Hunting => Bow Hunting => Topic started by: LeviD1 on February 17, 2015, 12:04:19 PM
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So I refletched my practice arrows last fall and while shooting yesterday I had a fletch on 2 different arrows fly off. I currently use blue glue. It doesn't seem like its working that great. What glues do you guys use that work best for you?
Thanks
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So I refletched my practice arrows last fall and while shooting yesterday I had a fletch on 2 different arrows fly off. I currently use blue glue. It doesn't seem like its working that great. What glues do you guys use that work best for you?
Thanks
From my own experience, Ive went through about 5 different types of brands/glues to see what works for me...
Im pretty rough on my arrows Saunders NPV is by far the strongest ive found so far and can be found just about anywhere you can purchase arrow equipment.
It seems to have a solvent in the glue that helps it bond to whatever its sticking. I.E. The fletching colors will bleed off into the glue where it dries.
It also works great for heads/inserts but dont count on being able to get your inserts out with any type of ease, Even with an insert heater.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportsmanswarehouse.com%2Fimg%2Fproducts%2Foriginal%2Fsaunders_npv_glue_1_ounce_1017838_1_og.jpg&hash=d8470164116ee10a70b7886fd01432acd05eebb8)
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I use Goat Tuff. I've sent a few arrows through the big stacked foam targets at archery ranges, and I've never lost a fletch.
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I use goat tuff. And have had no issues with it.
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Loc tight ultra control gel or the aae max bond
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Lock Tite ultra control gel. But, it's all about preparation of the shaft. First I scrape all the old glue/vanes off with a box knife. I'm able to get it all with the blade without damaging a shaft but if your not comfortable with that you can get the last bit of glue off with acetone. Just do not let it soak,it will damage the shaft. Next I run the shafts under warm water and slightly rough them up with green scotch brite. I dry them real good with a towel making sure to get all the residue from the scotch brite off. I then wipe the area to be fletched with 98% isopropyl alcohol, the kind without scents or oils. I put the arrow in the jig, clean the bottom of the vane with the alcohol, then put a bead of glue along the vane about 1/3 the width of the base. You can also put a few beads of glue and then spread the glue evenly with a toothpick, all personal preference. I then put the vane in the jig, press into the shaft making sure I get no movement, and let it sit for at least a minute. I used to let it sit for 15-20 seconds but that didn't get nearly the bond I do with at least one minute. I figured this all out with a lot of trial and error, but using this process I can't get vanes off without pliers, and even then they tend to rip carbon off with them. Take your time, and good luck! :tup:
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Lock Tite ultra control gel. But, it's all about preparation of the shaft. First I scrape all the old glue/vanes off with a box knife. I'm able to get it all with the blade without damaging a shaft but if your not comfortable with that you can get the last bit of glue off with acetone. Just do not let it soak,it will damage the shaft. Next I run the shafts under warm water and slightly rough them up with green scotch brite. I dry them real good with a towel making sure to get all the residue from the scotch brite off. I then wipe the area to be fletched with 98% isopropyl alcohol, the kind without scents or oils. I put the arrow in the jig, clean the bottom of the vane with the alcohol, then put a bead of glue along the vane about 1/3 the width of the base. You can also put a few beads of glue and then spread the glue evenly with a toothpick, all personal preference. I then put the vane in the jig, press into the shaft making sure I get no movement, and let it sit for at least a minute. I used to let it sit for 15-20 seconds but that didn't get nearly the bond I do with at least one minute. I figured this all out with a lot of trial and error, but using this process I can't get vanes off without pliers, and even then they tend to rip carbon off with them. Take your time, and good luck! :tup:
x 3
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I'm new to fletching arrows and was given an Arizona quick fletch by a friend who physically can no longer draw a bow.
He gave me some glue with it and it did did work even after prepping the arrow per Radsav's method, not going to mention a name as the glue was pretty old.
Got some Goat Tuff and have yet to lose a fletching set with it.
Carbon Express Maxima Hunter 350.
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I use fletchtite or duco. I use cap wraps though. I don't prep the arrow shaft at all, just install the cap wrap and then glue the vanes/feathers on. I will put a small dab of glue at the point and nock end of each vane/feather, it helps create a transition between the shaft and the end of the vane/feather.
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Lots of good glue out there. I will say, my best results for feathers and vanes have been from fastest gel.
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So I refletched my practice arrows last fall and while shooting yesterday I had a fletch on 2 different arrows fly off. I currently use blue glue. It doesn't seem like its working that great. What glues do you guys use that work best for you?
Thanks
From my own experience, Ive went through about 5 different types of brands/glues to see what works for me...
Im pretty rough on my arrows Saunders NPV is by far the strongest ive found so far and can be found just about anywhere you can purchase arrow equipment.
It seems to have a solvent in the glue that helps it bond to whatever its sticking. I.E. The fletching colors will bleed off into the glue where it dries.
It also works great for heads/inserts but dont count on being able to get your inserts out with any type of ease, Even with an insert heater.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportsmanswarehouse.com%2Fimg%2Fproducts%2Foriginal%2Fsaunders_npv_glue_1_ounce_1017838_1_og.jpg&hash=d8470164116ee10a70b7886fd01432acd05eebb8)
I've had good luck with this one as well. I haven't noticed the color bleeding, could be the fletches you are using?
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Goat tuff for me most of the time.
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I'm new to fletching arrows and was given an Arizona quick fletch by a friend who physically can no longer draw a bow.
He gave me some glue with it and it did did work even after prepping the arrow per Radsav's method, not going to mention a name as the glue was pretty old.
Got some Goat Tuff and have yet to lose a fletching set with it.
Carbon Express Maxima Hunter 350.
hats the exact arrow I use. I gues ill pick myself up some of that stuff! Thank you all for your input.
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I've tried darn near everything out there. Some I like for a while, but I always go back to Saunders NPV. I believe in doing everything possible with my equipment so I have as close to zero failure as possible. 35 years and literally hundreds of dozens of arrows I've never had a single failure with NPV! Don't think I can say that about any other glue I've used.
I do not use it for inserts. Black Max Loc-Tite, Gorilla, Goat Tuff, AAE Max-Bond all have worked great as insert glues.
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I use Blu Glu and have no issues. I prep meticulously and apply a dab on the front and rear of each vane.
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I use Blu Glu and have no issues. I prep meticulously and apply a dab on the front and rear of each vane.
That's neat stuff! Dries clear but has enough color to see how good your bead is before putting the arrow down. For aging guys like me that's not such a bad idea. Still an adhesive type that makes me nervous in various hunting temperatures and fletching temperatures. But a good product I think a lot of guys will like. Especially if you find you are "even bead" challenged as I get sometimes get these days.
Wish Saunders would add some color like that. NPV used to be a bit yellow and that helped. But, in the past decade their formula has become more clear. Still the same outstanding bond, just more clear! I was really surprised at how well the Blu Glu coloring worked. I even put an LED light close by when fletching that glue. Really made the blue jump off the vane.
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Another vote for Saunders NPV :tup: also take a look at the upper left corner of a tube of NPV :tup: :tup:
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I've had excellent results with Bohning Platinum using it exactly as Bohning says to do. Also, Lancaster says Bohning Platinum is the best waterproof glue for use in wet environments.