Post by: Ghost Hunter on March 18, 2015, 08:28:04 PM
Post by: Rick on March 18, 2015, 08:36:17 PM
Post by: RIVERRAT on March 18, 2015, 08:38:20 PM
Post by: Rem14 on March 18, 2015, 08:53:40 PM
Post by: NW-GSP on March 18, 2015, 09:20:27 PM
Post by: Ghost Hunter on March 19, 2015, 08:37:52 PM
Post by: coachcw on March 19, 2015, 08:40:12 PM
Post by: snocohunter on March 20, 2015, 12:58:42 PM
Post by: longwalker on March 20, 2015, 01:18:47 PM
MBRP ...in my opinion
Yup
Post by: Special T on March 20, 2015, 02:29:37 PM
http://www.dieselperformancesystem.com/store/dodge/045-07-cummins-59l/exhaust-systems600/dodge-diesel-performance-exhaust-dps17-kit-free-ground-shipping (http://www.dieselperformancesystem.com/store/dodge/045-07-cummins-59l/exhaust-systems600/dodge-diesel-performance-exhaust-dps17-kit-free-ground-shipping)
Post by: JPhelps on March 20, 2015, 02:35:12 PM
Post by: WoodlandShooter on March 20, 2015, 03:53:24 PM
The factory exhaust is good for about 500hp. Unless you have plans on more than that I'd just do something similar to stock.
yup!!
actually a 4" exhaust is good for over 600 HP. at that level, the difference between a 4" and a 5" exhaust is actually only about 5 HP. hand calc's and also tested by the Ripster himself.
unless you start upgrading fueling AND the turbo, it's not worth doin muich to the exhaust excep a kitty delete.
my 2001 CTD with twins has a 4" exhaust. Primary turbo is a garrett GT42-02 with a 1.15A/R T4 turbine housing. It has a 4" outlet. The engine is currently making 635 RWHP.
Post by: Huntboy on March 20, 2015, 04:03:40 PM
Stock pipes with muffler delete !
:yeah:
Post by: jackelope on March 20, 2015, 04:10:50 PM
The factory exhaust is good for about 500hp. Unless you have plans on more than that I'd just do something similar to stock.
:yeah:
Unless you want to sound like a Freightliner.
Post by: baker5150 on March 20, 2015, 04:15:04 PM
Stock pipes with muffler delete !
:yeah:
I did this to my 06 Ram, still wasn't happy with the EGT's. Went to AFE 5" SS Turbo back and haven't seen over 1200 degrees since. Even towing a 10,000 lb trailer over the pass.
Post by: JJB11B on March 20, 2015, 04:29:35 PM
Post by: Special T on March 21, 2015, 07:34:20 AM
Post by: WoodlandShooter on March 23, 2015, 09:20:06 AM
Post by: Mudman on March 23, 2015, 09:49:38 AM
Post by: WoodlandShooter on March 23, 2015, 10:20:03 AM
2200 to 2600 RPM, and the post injection event is off, but outside of that, it is adding fuel.
Under 2200 it is there to help spool the turbo, over 2600 it is there to help clean up the exhaust emissions
Post by: Mudman on March 23, 2015, 06:45:25 PM
Post by: baker5150 on March 23, 2015, 06:51:57 PM
Stock 4" is good with deletes. If not that buy the cheapest one. :twocents: My 05 has stock and a muffler but my kitty ran away. Muffler might too. :dunno: The egt problem is timing/tuning fuel and the 9cm turbo. Heck I can run 1300egt on stock tune pulling heavy up pass with alot of throttle at 2500rpm. Our turbo is crap for towing. Its next on my list, not exhaust. (Twins? Hmm) :drool:
I dont tow with a tune. Still need to build the trans.
1300 stock tune is high as hell I never see anywhere near that pullin hard and heavy over 20.
Post by: Mudman on March 23, 2015, 07:20:25 PM
Post by: baker5150 on March 23, 2015, 08:00:35 PM
Really? Interesting, 6.7 cummins? The 6.7 turbo I read can adjust from 9cm to 25cm. What year truck? Stock? With no tune loaded bed and 27'TT loaded probably around? 8500lbs? 5 people, gross around 19k. Blewitt pass I layed her to the floor in direct drive stock tune and she ran around 1320egt at 35psi turbo. I then put edge on tow tune and had some extra power but egts ran mid 1350's. Put edge to 3 and could not hit her too hard, had to watch gauges but climbed just as well. Keep in mind Im running 70+mph doing this pushing alot wind at elevation. Love these cummins. 1300egt is normal max on stock truck these years. I will not pull at anything over 1350egt sustained and I shoot for less of course. EFI is best tunes by far but only for 06-up years.
I'm in a 06 5.9. 1250 is my max. I can pull like hell in tow mode, just don't have the trans for it yet.
Post by: Mudman on March 23, 2015, 08:41:20 PM
Post by: Special T on March 24, 2015, 06:38:09 AM
Post by: baker5150 on March 24, 2015, 07:07:46 AM
You guys could just use the 6 speed stick instead of those $6k juice boxes. An Automatic IS a wear item. I can buy a lot of clutches for the price of ONE of your rebuilds.
I wanted a stick when I bought my truck new in 06. But I need the wife to be comfortable driving it as well.
And the 06 manual has a lower rated towing capacity than the auto.
Post by: Special T on March 24, 2015, 07:09:57 AM
Post by: baker5150 on March 24, 2015, 07:11:39 AM
1250 is good. If I could remember the link off a forum about Cummins testing their engine. They tested cummins under 100% load 24hours for looong run, months I think. (prolly had remote oiler) egts were mid 1300's and everything was tip top, bearings piston etc. So Cummins rating was 1300+egts. Heck the 2nd gen hx35 at 12cm tows great but moves air easier with lower drive pressure but its a 235hp system too. :chuckle: If you running efi your temps will be lower than mine for sure. Wish they would create efi for older 3rd gens. :bash: These trans can take more then people think. The boost launchs and racing etc is what kills em off. Gentle and roll into it helps out alot. TQ converter slip is first to go it seems but better safe than sorry. I have worked mine hard with tunes for 25k but smart about it. Oil and bands every 10k and still good shape at 125k total.
My biggest worry on my trans is the temp. When pulling in Tow mode the temps climb quickly. Stock it will hold around 200 all day.
I need to install a lock up switch for the TC. Lower temps pulling, more torque to the wheels, and better down hill braking.
Post by: Special T on March 24, 2015, 07:13:41 AM
Post by: baker5150 on March 24, 2015, 07:16:45 AM
Ive done a combined weight of 30K Lbs from longview to skagit valley. They work fine for pulling trust me...
I don't doubt it, they are more than capable, but there is no way I could get my wife to do that in Seattle traffic with a manual.
The 48re with a few mods is absolutely bullet proof. I am lucky enough to have a good buddy that builds trans. so it wont cost much more than a case of beer in labor. Just need this one to start acting up to give me a reason to do the build.
Post by: baker5150 on March 24, 2015, 07:20:11 AM
I would also add that Ive pulled 26k over the pass and back so many times I lost count. I used to put on 150k miles a year pulling my trailer.
I pull between 26k and 28k regularly, depending on what Im up to. The truck does great.
Post by: Special T on March 24, 2015, 07:28:25 AM
For dragging or truck pulls an auto is likely the way to go... but for hauling freight a 6speed stick is the way to go.
Post by: Woodchuck on March 24, 2015, 07:47:42 AM
Post by: HUNTINCOUPLE on March 24, 2015, 07:50:40 AM
Sing it with me boys.....ALLISON. I run Amsoil and trans temps stay at 180 workin hard, 1/4 million on it and don't miss a lick, samples come back beautiful every time. :tup:
That's impressive! :tup:
Post by: baker5150 on March 24, 2015, 08:21:40 AM
Sing it with me boys.....ALLISON. I run Amsoil and trans temps stay at 180 workin hard, 1/4 million on it and don't miss a lick, samples come back beautiful every time. :tup:
:tup:
We ran a few at work and never had an issue with the trans. That's one thing GM got right. It was everything else that turned me away from their 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. We stopped using them in our fleet, they just couldn't hold up to everyday use. They just fell apart around themselves.
Had some engine (Duramax) issues to the point the dealer was just throwing parts at them. I never felt good about them, we even had the service manager tell us to make sure we swapped the injectors out before the warranty was up. :dunno:
Never a transmission issue thou.
Post by: Mudman on March 24, 2015, 08:26:52 AM
Post by: baker5150 on March 24, 2015, 08:43:18 AM
Allisons are the best but-rebuilds cost a lot more when they go. The 48re is a common swap on newer Rams as it is cheaper and bulletproof for extreme use. For 3500$ you can have a bulletproof 48re/converter. Someday mine will be replaced with a Firepunk Trans. I wanted a stick but it sold in the 2 hours it took me to drive to it. :bash: Clutches are not cheap either. I like the control of a manual. I installed a Mystery switch/TQ lock-up. (CHEAP) Very handy, and does help with trans. temps but only at certain points. To lockup 1-2 gears you need a valve body upgrade. I dont. But locking drive and OD is nice and helps coming down pass. Also I use a race stlye quick flip switch as you may forget its on when stopping. This can get violent and break shafts as cummins will refuse to die.
Firepunk Trans are the way to go, but shipping it here, and the core back makes it too expensive. Add the triple disc TC and your pushing $5000 for a mild built trans you could do yourself.
Post by: Mudman on March 24, 2015, 09:11:56 AM
Post by: WoodlandShooter on March 24, 2015, 09:52:52 AM
I was told 3rd inj. event is emissions egr stuff and to quiet engine. The programs use it to their advantage usually rather than disabling it. Its not responsible for egt temps as the tunes control it completely. An aftermarket turbo will be around 12cm-14cm exhaust so engine isnt choked. The stock 9cm isnt good for towing temps but spools quick and low for driving. Older dodges turbo was 12cm as well. Tater built turbos-google him- is great upgrade of stockers and cheap and all original 351 turbo. I will likely go with Tater or atsAurora 3000k.
Third event is ONLY for emissions. It is so far retarded (in timing) that the fuel arives too late to add any real power. Economy can drop by ~ 0.5 MPG. That change when towing from 10.5 to 10 MPG is a big hit.
The 1st (pre) event is to quiet the knock.
also, the pre and post event timing is referenced off of the main, so if you change the main timing, both the pre and post change.
Pictured is the pre, main, and post timing maps.
as usual (and we already kinda know this) 2200 RPM is the sweet spot for towing Keeps you from wasting fuel by getting the Post event activated, and it also allows for a slightly more advanced main event timing
Post by: Mudman on March 24, 2015, 10:04:21 AM
Post by: WoodlandShooter on March 24, 2015, 10:30:24 AM
My 2001 will get 10.8 doing the same stuff..and it will do it faster. But it has twins, cam, head porting, big injectors (mach 6+) yadda yadda yadda
Post by: Mudman on March 24, 2015, 10:55:10 AM
Post by: WoodlandShooter on March 24, 2015, 12:29:48 PM
Woodland did you check out my link on 3rd gen. twins? What ya think? Are you running a program on 3rd gen ? Im curious how much mpg is effected. I run edge on 3, 2 tow when hills around and stock up big hills when towing 27'TT. Normal driving edge on 3, mpg varies 16-20ish depending on alot variables.
well, that kit is definately "pretty" Cant tell anything as they dont say diddly about the turbo. Also, it looks ilike it still uses the OEM turbo as the seccondary...so, well, you are still corked there.
Call Source Automotive to get a good set of twins http://sourceautomotive.biz/ (http://sourceautomotive.biz/)
My 3G is still bone stock as the tranny is still bone stock also. If I ever do dive into it, the stock turbo is getting replaced by a Garrett Stage 2, the charge cooler is getting replaced by a BD unit ( I have one on my 2G) The Cam is getting replaced by a Helix II or a Hamilton. The the Kitty is going in the trash.
after all that, then I may just go with a Smarty Jr....oh and a tranny... all that should get it to ~20-22 empty and 12 loaded but I cant justify the cost as of yet.
Post by: Mudman on March 24, 2015, 12:48:45 PM
Post by: WoodlandShooter on March 24, 2015, 01:02:21 PM
Been out of the game for a while. Last time I was playing, Piers still had a shop in Abbotsford.