Post by: CP on May 06, 2015, 07:33:56 AM
Post by: Jonathan_S on May 06, 2015, 07:37:54 AM
Of course none of this is necessary but it'd help you pick the right plant(s) for better results.
Post by: kodiak 907 on May 06, 2015, 07:56:00 AM
Transplant some young alders along the edges, and maybe a few vine maples. Throw some clover mix in the middle and hang a couple bird feeders.
We tried that at my buddy's property and he had quite a few critters hanging around all year.
Good luck
Post by: grundy53 on May 06, 2015, 08:11:09 AM
Post by: HUNTINCOUPLE on May 06, 2015, 08:56:20 AM
Post by: LeviD1 on May 06, 2015, 10:50:41 AM
Post by: CP on May 06, 2015, 11:37:05 AM
Post by: jackelope on May 06, 2015, 11:39:44 AM
Check this out. My buddy went this route in Pennsylvania and has food plots growing like mad with deer, turkeys and pheasants in them all the time.
Post by: LeviD1 on May 06, 2015, 04:26:08 PM
Post by: jackelope on May 06, 2015, 07:23:43 PM
Pennsylvania could be a whole lot different than where you want to plant. Whatever you buy call then first and make sure you get their recommendation on what till do best bases on conditions it needs to grow in. Water, sunlight, temps etc.
You send in a soil sample. They analyze it and tell you/sell you the seed mix they deem proper for the soil. It doesn't matter geographically where you are. They'll determine what's right based on the soil sample you send in to them.
Post by: fishnfur on May 06, 2015, 11:51:54 PM
I would also spend a lot of time drawing out plans that illustrate what you feel would provide the best arrangement of brush/cover for animals using your plot, and also identify your potential tree stands and angles for maximum sun exposure for the actual crops.
NW conifer soils are notoriously acidic. I'm sure you're going to want to lime the soil. You may be able to get a local farmer to till it for you for a few dollars, if there was one close-by.
Two years ago, I tried spraying herbicide on a forest opening, hand liming without any tilling prior to spreading clover seed over about a quarter acre. I got a moderate amount of growth before native weeds and grasses seeded in an outperformed the clover. I gave up, planted an apple tree, and let the weeds grow. No more work!
Post by: CP on May 08, 2015, 11:46:35 AM
Post by: JimmyHoffa on May 08, 2015, 11:53:36 AM
Post by: kodiak 907 on May 08, 2015, 12:06:46 PM
Post by: CP on May 08, 2015, 12:32:43 PM
Can you wood chip them? If not...low temp burn them or bury them. If none of those options, then scatter around the trees on the perimeter.
Burning probably isn’t an option. Since the Taylor Bridge fire any plume of smoke gets a lot of attention.
I do have a 3” chipper that can handle some of this stuff; I might give that a try this weekend and see how it goes.
Post by: HUNTINCOUPLE on May 08, 2015, 12:35:32 PM
Post by: LeviD1 on May 08, 2015, 04:10:43 PM
Post by: raydog on May 08, 2015, 06:10:41 PM
Phase 1 of the cleanup. I’ve got a lot of wood; branches, stumps, half rotten logs, etc to deal with. Anyone have any suggestions for getting rid of these piles?Make a ground blind/Beaver hut!
Post by: fishnfur on May 08, 2015, 11:20:17 PM
An easier solution might be to just surround that single central tree with a narrow ring of slash.
An hour or two should get that stuff out of the way for you. Have fun!
Post by: cryder on May 11, 2015, 06:39:03 AM
Post by: 92xj on May 11, 2015, 06:58:49 AM
Post by: nwwanderer on May 11, 2015, 07:33:23 AM
Post by: Wolfdog2314 on May 11, 2015, 03:50:52 PM
What about those throw n go bags at wall mart , are they any good ? Ive got a hill with some cleared spots between big bushes, was thinking about some planting in there. My p.h. testing came out high so ill just spot plant with some soil from the local lowes place and plant in that ,but anybody try those bags before ?
Id go with something different. Most of those are made up of all rye grass that's basically can grow on concrete so people think it works amazing. I tried it once. Blacktail didn't touch it. It grew well and fast but as soon as it was grown it almost immediately died.
I'd go the clover route for sure. That's what I'm gonna do. I've been packing in 25lbs of lime for during each trail camera check. I'm gonna use one of those hand twist tiller tools and a metal rake. Get a half acre sized spot done up a couple miles back. At the very least it's a good time and fresh air in the woods!
Post by: CP on May 12, 2015, 12:16:38 PM
I tossed some crimson seed on the ground a couple of weeks ago as a test patch and it’s sprouting -
Post by: CP on May 12, 2015, 05:19:13 PM
Any quail around? The pile looks like a nest site. Yes on the clover idea, mix a half dozen varieties. Most is grown in Oregon, get it locally and it will not need a third mortgage. You might need lime to increase pH. If you do not soil test just give it a try, it might be fine. Locate a mineral feeder some where on the edge, Northwest beef from Wolfkill in Stanwood is very good and a fraction of the cost of specialty stuff. Clover likes firm seed beds and shallow planting. Broadcast it, harrow it, flex harrow would be best, and with a little rain it will be fine.
No quail unfortunately, not many deer either I’ve just seen a few doe and one turkey in this area. I think the turkey got eaten by the coyotes. I’m hoping a food source will bring in some more animals.
Post by: curlewkiller on May 13, 2015, 01:28:51 PM
Deer & Elk Feeder Plus
Designed to attract deer and elk throughout the year. High in protein and palatability, this mix will attract and keep deer and elk coming back for more.
from Rainier Seeds in Davenport.
They say it needs 12 inches of rain a year. I planted it at 4300 feet. This is a test and messed up on laying down the seed. It will be think in parts and sparse in others, if you know what I mean. i will report back.
Post by: HUNTINCOUPLE on May 13, 2015, 01:38:00 PM
I just planted about 5000 square feet of:
Deer & Elk Feeder Plus
Designed to attract deer and elk throughout the year. High in protein and palatability, this mix will attract and keep deer and elk coming back for more.
from Rainier Seeds in Davenport.
They say it needs 12 inches of rain a year. I planted it at 4300 feet. This is a test and messed up on laying down the seed. It will be think in parts and sparse in others, if you know what I mean. i will report back.
Please do keep an update. Will be quirous how it grows? Those little clovers are looking real good! :tup:
Post by: MuleDeer on May 13, 2015, 07:06:00 PM
Pennsylvania could be a whole lot different than where you want to plant. Whatever you buy call then first and make sure you get their recommendation on what till do best bases on conditions it needs to grow in. Water, sunlight, temps etc.
You send in a soil sample. They analyze it and tell you/sell you the seed mix they deem proper for the soil. It doesn't matter geographically where you are. They'll determine what's right based on the soil sample you send in to them.
Jackelope is right about the soil sampling: should be done on every piece of ground before you invest any money. Your local soil conservation office will run tests, as well as most seed suppliers like Whitetail Institute, Biologic, etc. A test and a few tons of lime are MUCH cheaper than most seed, so it's in your best interest to give yourself and your foodplot every chance for success.
As far as geography goes, it can make a huge difference in what type of seeds to plant. These days, seed mixes are so well engineered, that most of them require very specific conditions to thrive or even survive. Average temp during the growing season, average rainfall, drainage on the plot, and more all come into consideration and should be looked at for maximum results.
Also matters if you're looking at annual or perennial food plot seed. Annuals generally grow easier and are heartier, but you have to replant every year. Perennials are tougher to manage, but last longer. Take some time to research food plot management and options: it's a pretty fun subject and you can learn a lot to help your hunting success.
It's free to consult with most seed companies, and once the soil is treated, I'd talk with them. It's your best bet for the results you want down the road.
Post by: Chesapeake on May 15, 2015, 09:23:40 AM
I'd have hit it with a hand crank spreader with several bags of lime and then a bag or two of triple 16. Raked that in and hopefully had some rain melt it in, then plant it with the ladino, arrowleaf, and or red perennial clover seed you can buy at the feed/farm stores and lightly rake them in.
I've looked at lots of seed labels and it seems most of the grass and clover seed around these parts comes from the Willamette valley. I've had no luck with the chickory, alfalfa, and brassicas they blend in the back east whitetail seed blends. The Willamette valley seed you can buy at the feed store is way cheaper than the designer seed blends. Pasture mixes are even cheaper.
Clover will only last a few years and then you'll need to reseed. Crimson clover is pretty well an annual as is Alsike, if that's what you planted as a "white" clover. Also grasses and weeds will overtake your plot and you'll have to deal with that.
Everything, turkey, deer, elk, ect..... likes clover.
Post by: cryder on May 16, 2015, 08:46:21 PM
Post by: police women of America on May 16, 2015, 09:04:29 PM
also rake the cleared areas before planting the seeds (even though I'm sure you already know that).
it should work out great! :tup:
Post by: CP on May 26, 2015, 01:18:27 PM
Mixed results so far; thick in places but some spots have no growth at all but. Overall it’s growing slower than I expected. The soil is inconsistent and where there are rotting cedar trees in the mix it seems to retard the growth. The deer have found it and have plucked a couple of spots clean.
Post by: h20hunter on May 26, 2015, 01:21:11 PM
Post by: jackelope on May 26, 2015, 03:00:02 PM
Update:
Mixed results so far; thick in places but some spots have no growth at all but. Overall it’s growing slower than I expected. The soil is inconsistent and where there are rotting cedar trees in the mix it seems to retard the growth. The deer have found it and have plucked a couple of spots clean.
I wonder if the acid added to the soil from the cedars is affecting the soil enough to hinder the seed from sprouting.
As cryder said....ph is too high.
:dunno:
Post by: CP on May 26, 2015, 03:31:25 PM
Update:
Mixed results so far; thick in places but some spots have no growth at all but. Overall it’s growing slower than I expected. The soil is inconsistent and where there are rotting cedar trees in the mix it seems to retard the growth. The deer have found it and have plucked a couple of spots clean.
I wonder if the acid added to the soil from the cedars is affecting the soil enough to hinder the seed from sprouting.
As cryder said....ph is too high.
:dunno:
Maybe - I know that I put cedar bark in the flower beds to keeps the weeds in check. :dunno:
Post by: Chesapeake on May 26, 2015, 04:17:23 PM
Cedar tree's drop a lot of limb ends creating acid soil due to the tannins in cedars.
I'd go lime (an alkaline) to neutralize the acid and bring the soil more toward a 7 ph and then add fertilizer.
Guess I already said that in this thread.
Post by: KFhunter on May 26, 2015, 04:19:58 PM
Also just don't guess and spread out soil amendments as you can really change the soil wildly, it's like adding chemicals to a hot tub...little bit too much of this then a little bit too much of that.... and next thing you know you've got a cocktail of chemicals in your tub and you gotta drain and start all over.
Post by: CP on July 06, 2015, 08:42:53 AM
Post by: huntingbaldguy on July 09, 2015, 02:17:21 AM
Post by: CP on July 14, 2015, 08:43:50 AM
Post by: Jonathan_S on July 14, 2015, 09:14:27 AM
I hauled some water in trash can on the ATV and watered with a bucket. Too little, too late probably but we will see. Still no rain in sight.
Not too late, too early. Clover is something to plant in the fall :tup: Give it another shot in October. Broadcast some seed and judge the results next year. Clover relies on a pretty significant root structure.
Post by: CP on July 14, 2015, 09:39:29 AM
I thought getting it in early, as soon as the snow melted, was key. If this crop doesn’t work I’ll try again for next year and be ready with soil tests, fertilizer and some means of irrigation. Maybe switch clover varieties. I see some natural clover patches nearby and they all seem to be arrowleaf.
Post by: Maverick on August 01, 2015, 06:01:56 PM
Post by: CP on May 02, 2016, 12:27:25 PM
Post by: fishnfur on May 03, 2016, 10:02:36 AM
Perhaps just a bunch of apple trees would be best if the clearing gets direct sunlight. You'll have to cage them for several years. I had an elk clip the top of one of my 3 year-old apple trees at about the 6.5 foot level. He smashed the chicken wire fencing and bent a T post getting up there to get that single bite.
Post by: CP on May 17, 2016, 08:40:28 AM
I added some lime to soil just before a good rain so hopefully that helps. I've ordered some Whitetail Institute Extreme - they claim to grow best in extreme conditions. We'll see.
I'm obviously running behind schedule - too much to do and too little time to do it.
Post by: Special T on May 17, 2016, 09:57:19 AM
Bucking up the wood and getting plants in the ground is what you really need.
Post by: fishnfur on May 17, 2016, 11:37:02 PM
Another idea is a persimmon, which can grow over 30 feet tall, which allows them to get more sun than a lower growing apple tree. Whitetail property owners in the mid-west and south often combine plantings of persimmon, apple and a hybrid chestnut.
http://www.chestnuthilloutdoors.com/store/c/19-Deer-Candy-Persimmon-Tree-Collection.aspx
Post by: JimmyHoffa on May 19, 2016, 08:16:26 AM
I like the apple tree suggestion. Anyone have any recommendations as to what type would be best here? It's at 2600 ft and gets a lot of snow most years.The small crab apples are good for high elevation/extreme climate swings. I would try to match the fruit drop with the season you plan to hunt. Best would be multiple varieties so you start getting apples as early as Sep and go even as late as early Nov, but that might be too many trees. You would probably need multiple trees for pollination to actually get enough crop, or you can get one good rootstock for the conditions of your area and graft multiple branches to a single tree to get all the pollination and different fruiting times.
I added some lime to soil just before a good rain so hopefully that helps. I've ordered some Whitetail Institute Extreme - they claim to grow best in extreme conditions. We'll see.
I'm obviously running behind schedule - too much to do and too little time to do it.
Post by: CP on May 22, 2016, 01:41:28 PM
Post by: CP on May 22, 2016, 01:43:32 PM
Fertilized with 16-16-16 then dragged it in using a section of chain link behind the ATV.
Broadcast the seed then cultipacked by running over it with the ATV.
Post by: CP on June 06, 2016, 06:59:42 AM
Post by: CP on June 06, 2016, 07:00:53 AM
Post by: fishnfur on June 06, 2016, 01:48:55 PM
I think the elk may still push into the fence to get at that tree. Don't forget to give it water every time you're out there. It could be a long dry summer.
Post by: CP on June 06, 2016, 02:37:20 PM
Perhaps some constantina wire around it too. :chuckle:
I think the elk may still push into the fence to get at that tree. Don't forget to give it water every time you're out there. It could be a long dry summer.
Thanks. I'll beef that up with some more posts next time I'm out there. I can ATV in a trailer full of water as needed. If these take I'll put some more in next spring.
Post by: Rainier10 on June 06, 2016, 03:17:26 PM
Post by: CP on June 06, 2016, 03:19:02 PM
What elevation are you at? I am thinking of doing some apple trees at 3,800 feet.
I'm at 2,700 -
Post by: bearpaw on June 06, 2016, 04:15:27 PM
Post by: Rainier10 on June 06, 2016, 04:25:47 PM
:tup: I will be watching to see how it does.What elevation are you at? I am thinking of doing some apple trees at 3,800 feet.
I'm at 2,700 -
Post by: Kit Carson on June 06, 2016, 08:50:15 PM
Post by: johnsc6 on June 07, 2016, 09:03:31 PM
Post by: fastcrazyhurt on October 21, 2016, 01:38:14 PM
Post by: CP on October 21, 2016, 04:29:08 PM
Post by: GBoyd on October 21, 2016, 06:43:39 PM
Two tips:
1. Maybe don't keep it in clover? The natural weeds at your site will probably be good forage. Just get it with the weed whacker twice a year.
2. White clover is resistant to Roundup. An overspray of 0.5% concentration glysophate will kill other weeds and leave the clover.
Post by: CP on February 06, 2017, 10:15:07 AM
Post by: CP on July 30, 2017, 01:17:57 PM
I've also got some green stuff growing where once there was only dirt and moss.
Post by: nwwanderer on July 30, 2017, 01:28:19 PM
Post by: muleracks on July 30, 2017, 03:59:11 PM
Post by: JimmyHoffa on July 30, 2017, 04:21:21 PM
What elevation are you at? I am thinking of doing some apple trees at 3,800 feet.The smaller crab apples, the dolgo (sp?), do alright up to about 6000'. They can take the cold and a late bloom. At lower elevations, the fruit drop is around early Sept; at higher elevations it can be mid/late October. The fruit is a little bigger than a cherry.
Post by: muleracks on July 30, 2017, 10:18:43 PM
The growing season will be short but they should do fine at almost 4000'
Post by: renrutbocaj on March 19, 2018, 04:38:06 PM
Post by: CP on March 20, 2018, 07:47:02 AM
Can you give an update on this plot and especially the trees for this spring when you get a chance?
Will do. Right now they are under several feet of snow.
The honey crisp suffered a second elk attack in Oct. The elk pushed the fencing down and ate about half the tree. :bash:
I need to get in there and make sure the fence is intact. The elk will be returning as soon as the snow melt allows.
Post by: Jonathan_S on March 20, 2018, 09:39:24 AM