Post by: KopperBuck on June 28, 2015, 12:32:35 PM
Here she is...
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F15%2F06%2F28%2F286be55ce003141597582457023ce4ab.jpg&hash=20fe71aa6ee40e84d4f7c97f2cd82cbf6ed170a9)(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F15%2F06%2F28%2Ff58100b10883613e6e965f28c9202fcc.jpg&hash=120b045b43a6a441bb7793c13bba672eddf90d47)(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F15%2F06%2F28%2F10b638ce5634823c793a3c675cefa108.jpg&hash=f7b710961339e11307ad1ee605376100852874c1)
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Post by: ghosthunter on June 28, 2015, 01:11:40 PM
Post by: b23 on June 28, 2015, 01:35:29 PM
Since it sounds like you'll be running a cleaning rod through it a far amount, do you by chance have a good quality bore guide??
Everyone has their own opinion on breaking in a barrel and cleaning but I've personally never seen any benefit with quality aftermarket barrels. Factory barrels, yes, but there's not much you can compare, between factory barrels and aftermarket barrels.
Butch's Bore Shine is a good product and you don't need to worry about doing any damage to the barrel. Some of the other copper removers are pretty aggressive and can etch the barrel if you leave it in there a little to long.
Post by: xXLojackXx on June 28, 2015, 01:40:23 PM
Post by: trophyhunt on June 28, 2015, 01:44:07 PM
Post by: WoodlandShooter on June 29, 2015, 09:01:50 AM
DO NOT put anything down a hand lapped bore other than a bullet...it needs nothing to break in!!.
Post by: b23 on June 29, 2015, 10:25:37 AM
if it is a new custom hand lapped bore, it needs NOTHING but a swab before the initial firing to make sure there is no junk in it...
DO NOT put anything down a hand lapped bore other than a bullet...it needs nothing to break in!!.
I'm pretty much in complete agreement with you on this, yet, there are many others that feel differently and that's ok because we all have our own way of doing things, BUT, at the least, I would never put any cleaning rod down the pipe of a custom rifle that I just spent thousands of dollars on and NOT use a top quality bore guide.
Look up Lucas Bore Guides and he'll make you one custom fit to whatever it is you have. Unless things have changed, he only takes orders per email, he doesn't really like phone calls, I found this out the hard way lol, and even if you call him, he'll tell you to email your order to him but they're the best I've ever used. They fit snug and have an O-ring so they seal of in the chamber and don't leak stuff into the action. Mike will need to know what size and type cleaning rod you're going to use because his bore guides are two piece and use an insert to hold the rod straight so it can't bow or bend which has and affect on how straight it holds the brush or jag. The bore guide will be specific to that rifle but if you have other Lucas bore guides and use the same rod, one rod insert will work for multiple bore guides. It's been awhile since I bought one but if I recall the last one I bought, with rod insert, wa around fifty dollars. You've spent a good amount of money for a VERY nice rifle, now spend a few more bucks to help protect it from yourself.
http://www.6mmbr.com/catalog/item/1433308/954882.htm
Post by: KopperBuck on June 29, 2015, 04:02:57 PM
I wasn't considering doing anything else other than running patches for 50 rnds or so, then a brass brush.
Are you saying I shouldn't be using a brush at all?
Currently I'm using the Otis cleaning system - would you guys suggest otherwise? I haven't used a rod in years, I always felt like these were a little less reckless in the barrel.
Which brings me to another question - should I move to a rod, is there a direction better than the other? I always pull through matching bullet flight.
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Post by: KopperBuck on June 29, 2015, 04:08:42 PM
Is that a 7 rem mag ,700 LR?
It was a build by Blagg Rifles in Pendleton, OR. 7mm Rem Mag. Benchmark barrel, Stiller Precision action, Jewel trigger, and he does the stocks. I went with sporter version with a raised cheek because it's more of a hunter for me, and those long range stocks just aren't real comfortable.
It's gonna be a shooter for sure, I have zero doubt. Just want to start it right. First real money I've spent on a firearm.
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Post by: Woodchuck on June 29, 2015, 04:27:22 PM
Post by: WoodlandShooter on June 29, 2015, 04:31:45 PM
a jag with a patch or a squeegee to get the last of the foaming stuff out. then another wash with brake cleaner. once dry, a quick swab with Hoppes #9 and it's done for another 200-300 rounds.
Post by: b23 on June 29, 2015, 04:59:00 PM
Thanks for the info, although it may have just created more questions for me.
I wasn't considering doing anything else other than running patches for 50 rnds or so, then a brass brush.
Are you saying I shouldn't be using a brush at all?
Currently I'm using the Otis cleaning system - would you guys suggest otherwise? I haven't used a rod in years, I always felt like these were a little less reckless in the barrel.
Which brings me to another question - should I move to a rod, is there a direction better than the other? I always pull through matching bullet flight.
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If you ask 10 people, you'll likely get 10 different answers.
I'll give you my opinion and you can do with it what you want. Keep in mind, this is with regard to hand lapped custom barrels. Factory barrels are usually a completely different story.
I don't touch any of my custom barrels unless they need it and for me, needing it, means if a known accuracy load starts to do things it's never done before, then I'll run some patches with Butch's Bore Shine or Shooters Choice. I personally, never use brass brushes. If I have to brush the bore, which isn't very often, I use plastic brushes but for the most part, all I ever use is a patch. Good quality barrels, like what's on your new rifle, don't copper up like factory barrels so you'll likely have no need to use anything very aggressive.
Post by: WoodlandShooter on June 30, 2015, 08:22:42 AM