Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: huntandjeep on July 18, 2015, 06:22:49 PM
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Wife and I are thinking of getting one. Went looking today and checked out Jayco White Hawks and Keystone Hideouts. Going next weekend to look at Forest Rivers. Definitely want a slide out, outdoor kitchen / shower , and double bunks for the girls ( 7 and 2 year old). Thinking minimum 26' maximum 28'. Want a bumper pull . What should we look for in a trailer ? Any makes to avoid ?
Thanks Allen
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tag
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Tag. I'm in the same situation but want a 20-24' with bunk beds. Under 4000 dry weight because I'm pulling with a 1/2 ton. There seems to be a large price difference between some of the manufacturers so I'm interested to hear what people have to say.
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Nash and Artic Fox
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My brother recently bought a Timber Ridge by Outdoors RV. http://www.outdoorsrvmfg.com/
It's a very nice trailer inside and out.
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I have a Nash 26Z, the second Nash I've had. I have been happy with both. The first thing to look at is the roof. I have seen brand new trailers with holes in the roof big enough to put your finger in.
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Wife and I are thinking of getting one. Went looking today and checked out Jayco White Hawks and Keystone Hideouts. Going next weekend to look at Forest Rivers. Definitely want a slide out, outdoor kitchen / shower , and double bunks for the girls ( 7 and 2 year old). Thinking minimum 26' maximum 28'. Want a bumper pull . What should we look for in a trailer ? Any makes to avoid ?
Thanks Allen
Are you considering used also? Also wondering what key things to look for/look out for when considering a used trailer. 2005 and newer.
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Wife and I are thinking of getting one. Went looking today and checked out Jayco White Hawks and Keystone Hideouts. Going next weekend to look at Forest Rivers. Definitely want a slide out, outdoor kitchen / shower , and double bunks for the girls ( 7 and 2 year old). Thinking minimum 26' maximum 28'. Want a bumper pull . What should we look for in a trailer ? Any makes to avoid ?
Thanks Allen
Get what you want thats whats really important but I will give my 2 cents.Your signature is huntandjeep,Ok,I hunt,jeep,boat,jetski,Atv,and just plain camp.Can only do the 2 with a trailer,and thats just hunt and camp.I opted for the motor home for that reason.If your pulling the trailer your not pulling your jeep. So why even look at a trailer? :dunno: Motor home or camper for pickup bed. :twocents:
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Wife and I are thinking of getting one. Went looking today and checked out Jayco White Hawks and Keystone Hideouts. Going next weekend to look at Forest Rivers. Definitely want a slide out, outdoor kitchen / shower , and double bunks for the girls ( 7 and 2 year old). Thinking minimum 26' maximum 28'. Want a bumper pull . What should we look for in a trailer ? Any makes to avoid ?
Thanks Allen
Are you considering used also? Also wondering what key things to look for/look out for when considering a used trailer. 2005 and newer.
Ya in considering used.
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Wife and I are thinking of getting one. Went looking today and checked out Jayco White Hawks and Keystone Hideouts. Going next weekend to look at Forest Rivers. Definitely want a slide out, outdoor kitchen / shower , and double bunks for the girls ( 7 and 2 year old). Thinking minimum 26' maximum 28'. Want a bumper pull . What should we look for in a trailer ? Any makes to avoid ?
Thanks Allen
Get what you want thats whats really important but I will give my 2 cents.Your signature is huntandjeep,Ok,I hunt,jeep,boat,jetski,Atv,and just plain camp.Can only do the 2 with a trailer,and thats just hunt and camp.I opted for the motor home for that reason.If your pulling the trailer your not pulling your jeep. So why even look at a trailer? :dunno: Motor home or camper for pickup bed. :twocents:
My original plan was a camper but I'm scared we would outgrow it fast. Second plan was a 30'gooseneck flatdeck trailer with an 18'-20' travel trailer mounted on the front minus the wheels/axles ( redneck crawler hauler :chuckle: ). Looking more at trailers cause we camp alot more than "we" jeep. Usually its just me jeeping on the long weekends so I throw it on the car trailer and tent it, or just drive it to / from the trail. The wife and kids usually only go on the day trips.
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:tup:
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If your buying used then inspection is more important than Brand IMO. You can buy a used one that spends all its parked time under cover your golden If not you could be buying some one elses water damage.
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We just bought this trailer in February. Love it so far. 24ft and has arctic package. Has a good layout, plenty of counter space, deep tipout for more room between couch and dinette. Got it at Russ Dean in Tri Cities. Has a ton of storage inside.
http://www.alstrailers.com/inventory/462403/New-2015-Keystone-RV-Springdale-241RKWE.aspx
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I got a Salem 26ft with triple bunks.. Has a large slide.. I think it is one of the most popular trailers with bunks for a reasonable amount. It has manual jacks and awnings and what not but in mind that is cheaper to fix if breaks.. I went with the Salem over some of the others because it had an extra 6" of head room and being 6' 5" that was needed. I really like the layout and with the triple bunks have ton of room. We just use the bottom bunk for storage when not needed since it has a door to the outside.. Also the master bed has wall so it is kind of tucked away from the rest of the trailer.
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RV's are poorly made movable cabins. Lol.
They are allot of maintance, especially if kept outside.
They will leak if you dont check and re seal every year.
Fridges, heaters, hot water heaters, ect will fail. Plan your trips in advance and check everything. You will eventually get out there camping only to find this or that does not work.
They look great looking at one on the lot but whats inside and how its made is the key.
Look for quality components. Dometic\Surbuban are some of the best. Attwood and such are lesser quality.
One piece roofs are better than multi seams.
Shop carefully and read reviews. There all POS's. Just some are worse than others.
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Be sure to check the overall length. My 28' trailer is actually 34'8" bumber to ball. If your looking used, us your nose. If it smells musty it's leaked or they don't put heat in it in the winter. Look at the wall paper if it has any wrinkles or bubbles it's leaked. Smooth fiberglass looks nicer and is easier to wash. And has a higher resale value. I will pm you my number. Feel free to give me a call one evening as I've owned several rvs.
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HMMMMMM, my 1999 has been outside since new, no leaks, guess I got a bad one???
Carl
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After a couple mishaps of my own I will always own a Northwood Manufacturing trailer. Built in La grande Oregon and IMO the best built trailer available. Mine is a Desert Fox toyhauler. 06 bought it used and the front cap was delaminating and they replaced it for what the parts cost. Repair places wanted to total the 18K trailer. HAHA
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Another thing to consider when looking for trailer, look for companies that have been around for many years. There has been many different brands throughout the years, fly by night brands don't stay in business long. I would only buy the brands that have been around a long time with a good reputation. An off brand could be a bad choice. If you can find one that has been under cover it's entire life, you will be miles ahead. If it's a used one and the sheet metal at the bottom on the outside looks like it's bowing out, run away. Good luck, one more thing. The fiberglass smooth sided trailers are 1,000% easier to wash!!! Every time I was my aluminum sided trailer, I swear it will be the last time I wash it, pain in the butt. IMHO
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Buy an EXTENDED WARRANTY. You might be very surprised at how much RV's cost to fix. Also, low ball the dealer HUGELY. There is a huge, huge, markup in them. I lived in 3 new ones and the converter went out and it cost me over $700 out of my pocket to fix.
Buy the biggest you want. The bigger, the better with a family involved. Toy hauler for your ATV ?
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Buy an EXTENDED WARRANTY. You might be very surprised at how much RV's cost to fix. Also, low ball the dealer HUGELY. There is a huge, huge, markup in them. I lived in 3 new ones and the converter went out and it cost me over $700 out of my pocket to fix.
Buy the biggest you want. The bigger, the better with a family involved. Toy hauler for your ATV ?
:yeah:
But be aware that warranties DO NOT cover leaks of any kind. I have owned many trailers, just bought a new Keystone Outback. The owners manual requires me to inspect and re-seal every 90 days. :yike:
Look for wrinkles in the front of the fiberglass if buying used, especially older Keystone Cougars and Sprinters The caps are made with cardboard :bash:
1 piece roofs that wrap down onto the sidewall are your best best, look for chalky roofs too, poor maintenance.
Look at how the doors close, even cabinets. sure sign flexing in the walls.
I recommend heated basements/tanks. Polar/Northwest packages usually have them.
All brands have levels of quality, as in option levels and appliance quality. Do some homework and you'll see what I mean
Like stated before, all rv's are poorly built with a huge mark up. Those who say otherwise are kidding themselves.
Good luck, their a lot of work but also a lot of fun.
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Wife and I are thinking of getting one. Went looking today and checked out Jayco White Hawks and Keystone Hideouts. Going next weekend to look at Forest Rivers. Definitely want a slide out, outdoor kitchen / shower , and double bunks for the girls ( 7 and 2 year old). Thinking minimum 26' maximum 28'. Want a bumper pull . What should we look for in a trailer ? Any makes to avoid ?
Thanks Allen
Get what you want thats whats really important but I will give my 2 cents.Your signature is huntandjeep,Ok,I hunt,jeep,boat,jetski,Atv,and just plain camp.Can only do the 2 with a trailer,and thats just hunt and camp.I opted for the motor home for that reason.If your pulling the trailer your not pulling your jeep. So why even look at a trailer? :dunno: Motor home or camper for pickup bed. :twocents:
My original plan was a camper but I'm scared we would outgrow it fast. Second plan was a 30'gooseneck flatdeck trailer with an 18'-20' travel trailer mounted on the front minus the wheels/axles ( redneck crawler hauler :chuckle: ). Looking more at trailers cause we camp alot more than "we" jeep. Usually its just me jeeping on the long weekends so I throw it on the car trailer and tent it, or just drive it to / from the trail. The wife and kids usually only go on the day trips.
Stick the kidos out in a tent if you outgrow the truck camper and still can tow the toys. :twocents:
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So if I look at the roof of used units I assume I'm looking for holes,tears and loose sealant?
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So if I look at the roof of used units I assume I'm looking for holes,tears and loose sealant?
That would help but I think its more important to look inside for bubbles or anything like that on the wall paper.When they leak it gets on and under the wall paper just as much if not more than on the ceiling inside. :twocents:
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I just picked up a gulf breeze 29 bunk with double slides, I can pack a lot of people in it and use it for a spare bedroom a lot when guests are up.
it tows awesome, I was amazed how well it tows with no load leveling doo-dads or anything else.
it's plenty comfy too.
I have one slide messing up, it's going out crooked so I'll get to see how warranty is.
http://gulfstreamrvtrailers.com/gulf-breeze-xlt/overview.php I got the 29BIK model.
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IMO leaks are not what kills trailers and storing a trailer outside is not going to hurt it. Resealing every year is not necessary. If it is it is poorly made.
That comes what to look for. If the trailer is made with chip board or sawdust board pass it by. You can check under the cabinets or open up the hot water door and see what the floor is made out of. It will have linoleum but do what you have to to see what is underneath. What ever you do if you are buying used go over every inch of the floor especially in the bathroom and check for soft spots.. If you see water stains or blisters beat feet.
Smell the fridge. If you can smell ammonia it is either shot or will be soon.
I rebuilt a 2003 toyhauler which is for sale by the way. I owned two trailers and the floor is what will go first so that is very important to look over.
Sweating is the other big issue and it will be worst in the bathroom. Make sure to check the walls for give. They should be solid. If not there is rot.
For me I had very little trouble with appliances and they are easy to check if they work so that would be the least of my worries.
One exception is the fridge and again ammonia smell will tell you about it. Always have your trailer level to run the fridge and I think best to keep it running when not in use.
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KFhunter those are pretty nice trailers :tup:.
Might make the drive to Broadmor RV this weekend and look , and hit another local place. The more im searching im starting to like the Jayco's and Artic Fox :yike:
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The further east you go the cheaper trailers get. I bought my sun valley by evergreen in post falls idaho. Saved around 15k buying a 2014 model at the beginning of this year. I stayed away from the free standing chairs around the trailer. I know a few people who have them and they all have to tie them down when traveling.
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Go to Indiana where they build just about all trailers for the entire USA. You can look up on eBay and deal with dealers there. Probably save a ton more money and you can make a trip out of it too...
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So went looking more today and have more questions. What's the pros vs cons of smooth side compared to coregated ? What about wood framed vs aluminum ? I'm assuming smooth sides are easier to clean and aluminum is lighter
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So went looking more today and have more questions. What's the pros vs cons of smooth side compared to coregated ? What about wood framed vs aluminum ? I'm assuming smooth sides are easier to clean and aluminum is lighter
Aluminum is lighter and won't rot
Metal sides expand and contract more than fiberglass
Fiberglass will bubble and crack but is structurally stronger and easier to clean and seal for sure
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I just picked up a gulf breeze 29 bunk with double slides, I can pack a lot of people in it and use it for a spare bedroom a lot when guests are up.
it tows awesome, I was amazed how well it tows with no load leveling doo-dads or anything else.
it's plenty comfy too.
I have one slide messing up, it's going out crooked so I'll get to see how warranty is.
http://gulfstreamrvtrailers.com/gulf-breeze-xlt/overview.php I got the 29BIK model.
No load levelers? You may be surprised how much better it can be with them. Especially at 29'. What rig you tow with?
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My truck camper is smooth sided (Filon) and has a few cracks. Very tough to repair.
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I had problems with my last camper and corroding metal, had electrolysis eating it like cancer
doesn't mean all metal siding sucks I just wanted to try smooth sides this time. Easy to wash at least. Smooth sides are heavier, your tow vehicle might limit you.
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I just picked up a gulf breeze 29 bunk with double slides, I can pack a lot of people in it and use it for a spare bedroom a lot when guests are up.
it tows awesome, I was amazed how well it tows with no load leveling doo-dads or anything else.
it's plenty comfy too.
I have one slide messing up, it's going out crooked so I'll get to see how warranty is.
http://gulfstreamrvtrailers.com/gulf-breeze-xlt/overview.php I got the 29BIK model.
No load levelers? You may be surprised how much better it can be with them. Especially at 29'. What rig you tow with?
I was expecting to have to fork out cash for all that stuff but after the signing I just wanted to tow it home. I was like wow this tows nice! I've towed it around some windy twisty roads and done 70 with it and it just tows so nice I'm just going to skip all that junk.
The tow vehicle is a 1995 Ram CTD with air bags @ 50 PSI I wouldn't hesitate to motor down to Yellowstone just the way it sits.
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I had problems with my last camper and corroding metal, had electrolysis eating it like cancer
doesn't mean all metal siding sucks I just wanted to try smooth sides this time. Easy to wash at least. Smooth sides are heavier, your tow vehicle might limit you.
Tow rig is a 2012 F-350 powerstroke.
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Aluminum may be only minimally lighter than wood. But it won't rot. If you damage a piece of metal siding. You can replace that peice. Fiberglass you can replace the whole side.
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I had problems with my last camper and corroding metal, had electrolysis eating it like cancer
Probably had a leak or grounding problem.
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http://www.rvbg.com/Articles/?id=2007793
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Great thread. Gonna upgrade my duramax. Lease out th farm. Get a trailer. And go on an extended trip. ITS TIME